Unable to start the car

Hi,

Does the scan tool power up when connected to the DLC? Was this an issue prior to the valve job?

As far as the communication issue, first, check pin 16 in the DLC for battery voltage. It should be present at all times.

If that is good, check pins 4 and 5 in the DLC for a ground path (continuity to ground).

See pic below of the DLC. I highlighted the connectors to check.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

joe

See pic below.

Good day, thanks very much for the kind assistance. I tried to measure the 5v ref of the TPS and the value fluctuates between 0.22 to 0.24. I checked for battery voltage pin 16 and got 0.02. When I plugged in the scanner, it powered up but reads linking error, failed to communicate. When I turned the ignition, the attached video was displayed on the cluster panel. What should I do next?

Hi,

Pin 16 should have 12v (B+ voltage). Did you check the fuse? It is fuse 48 in the central junction box inside the vehicle. See pics below. That power is sent to the DLC directly from the fuse, so there isn't a module controlling it. If you only have 0.02v, that is a problem.

Let me know about the fuse.

Take care,

joe

See pics below.

Good day sir, I guess I wasn't doing it right before now. So, I got 12.4 volts at pin 16 of the DLC. As for checking for the grounds in pin 4 and 5, I disconnected the battery and turned the knob to 2k 20k 200k 2M ohms. I was getting varying fluctuating values in all of them. I don't know which of them will produce accurate value or how to test for ground (continuity). The 5v ref remains at 0.22 to 0.27 thanks for your assistance. I am glad you help. What should I do next?

I also don't know how to use the voltmeter to test fuse because none of the fuse i tested produce any value when the knob was turned to 20 mA except just one. Which is 0.03.

Hi,

If you are checking power at the fuses, you can use a test light. If you do use a multimeter, it shouldn't be set on mA. That is milliamps. That is for a much lower voltage. Set it on a standard amperage setting. Check the setting at the battery. When you find the setting that shows 12v, that is the one to use.

Also, here is a link that explains how to test a fuse. It will help you through the process.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

As far as the TPS voltage, it shouldn't be that low. Take a look at pic 1 below and let me know if you are comfortable performing it. It explains how to test for voltage at the connector itself. I also attached the connector pinout, so you know which ones to check.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Greetings,

I appreciate all you do. In testing for the 5v ref, I placed the red lead in the SIG RTN and VREF, got same value. The value is even dropping. I use the chassis as ground, same response. I might be getting the testing right. I think that is where the issue lies. The PCM not communicating with the DLC. What are the possible test I can do to detect this short. What should I be looking at. I believe this the image of the TPS. Thank you very much for your concern and help.

The TPS please.

Hi,

First, I attached a pic below showing where to check for a 5v reference signal. See pic 1. Use your multimeter and connect one probe to one pin and the other probe to the other pin. With the key in the run position (engine off), see how much voltage is present. It should be between 4v and 6v. If it still is very low, then either we have a wire issue, a connector problem, or the PCM is faulty.

Pic 2 is from what you sent me. Have you tried cleaning it? I ask because the throttle body. bore and the throttle plate have a special coating applied during manufacture which should not be removed. It looks exceptionally dirty, and it also appears there are two bolts missing (circled with blue) (TPS circled with red).

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Good morning, sir,

At your suggestion, I have gotten a new PCM with programmed keys. However, i want to find out the cause of the short first before installing it in order to avoid damaging the new one. I don't think at any time I have cleaned the throttle body. Should I do that because I have intentions of detailing the whole engine if the car can start running. I want to get the service of a technician that might assist. My major concern now is the wires. I also observed that I can't remove the key after I turned on the ignition until I disconnect the battery. There is box I don't know its functioning but looks like the security. I don't know if it is contributing to the issue. Thanks very for the keen interest and God bless you richly.

Hi,

In your last picture, where is that located? It looks like someone wired that in place using electrical tape.

As far as the short, before you remove the PCM, locate the power supply connector at the module and check if power is present at the module. If it isn't, I suspect the short is internal in the module itself.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

The car has active antitheft. There is a small button I used to click and then turn on the ignition before I start the car. I don't know if this antitheft comes with all model of the car or the dealer I bought the car from install it himself. I think the click button is wired to this box but don't know where this box is wired to. Can I ask what is pin on the PCM to check the power supply. Thanks very much for your concern and time. God bless you in many ways

Hi,

The switch wouldn't be a factory option. Someone added that to the vehicle. As far as a power supply to the ECM/PCM, it is provided via fuse 20 in the battery junction box. It is a 10-amp fuse.

I attached the wiring between the ECM/PCM and that fuse. The connector pin is 55 in connector C. The wire is red in color.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below. Note: Fuse 20 should have battery voltage at all times.

Good day sir, I can now test the fuses using voltmeter, fuse 20 is okay. Fuse 30 and 40 didn't give any reading. I couldn't locate pin 55 on the PCM. Still thinking about the possible cause of the short. If the 5v ref is so low, maybe injector or ETC won't get any. Thanks very much for your efforts, I still look forward to your contributions. Thanks once again and God bless you

Hi,

Fuses 30 and 40? One is the light switch, and the other is the back-up lamps. (CJB). See pic below.

As far as pin 55., does the connector look differently than the one I attached above?

Let me know.

joe

See pic below.

Greetings boss, the fuse 30 and 40 I am referring to is in the BJB. Maybe that is the rating. What I mean by locating the pin 55 is if it could be cycle on the image just like the pin 16 of DLC for easy identification. I can't place the transceiver ring round the key cylinder. Does it in any way affect the readings and output at the PCM. As part of the development of the whole problem. When the low oil pressure and battery charging was indicating in the cluster illumination. The headlamps stopped working. I experienced hard starting then. As of now, I feel it was because of the short issue, they stopped working and radiator fans weren't working then too. I would like to resolve those issues as well. I contracted a technician who will be on ground on Tuesday. I also want to be guided to avoid repeated flaws. Thanks once again and I remain grateful.

Greetings boss, the fuse 30 and 40 I am referring to is in the BJB. Maybe that is the rating. What I mean by locating the pin 55 is if it could be cycle on the image just like the pin 16 of DLC for easy identification. I can't place the transceiver ring round the key cylinder. Does it in any way affect the readings and output at the PCM. As part of the development of the whole problem. When the low oil pressure and battery charging was indicating in the cluster illumination. The headlamps stopped working. I experienced hard starting then. As of now, I feel it was because of the short issue, they stopped working and radiator fans weren't working then too. I would like to resolve those issues as well. I contracted a technician who will be on ground on Tuesday. I also want to be guided to avoided repeated flaws. Thanks once again and I remain grateful

Circle it on the image of the PCM connector.

Hi,

I copied my pic from above. Let me know if that helps.

Take care,

Joe

Good day sir, there is light at the end of the tunnel. I tested fuse 30 and 40 in CJB. One is okay while the other reading maximum reading is 0.18 volt. The fog light turned on, a glimpse of hope. I tried the test at the pin 55 of the PCM, no reading at all. If it happens that the wire is the issue going by this, what should I do? What are the grounds and splices attached to the PCM harness that could be a possible source of short. Why is there no reading? Is it that I didn't perform it correctly? I didn't place the transceiver ring, but I did it with ignition off and on. Thank you very much and God bless you.

The fog light .

Transceiver.

Hi,

It doesn't sound like you did anything wrong. I suspect the wire at the PCM is shorted at some point. Which fuse was it that had such low voltage? Let me know so I can trace it back to its source.

As far as the PCM is concerned, we need to disconnect the battery and PCM. Then, check if there is continuity to ground. If there is, there is a short at some point.

Let me know.

Joe

Good morning, sir, it is fuse 40 that has the low reading. I checked the others and fuse 51 has 0.05. The rest didn't give any reading.

Hi,

If fuse 40 is in the CJB, that is for the backup lamps. It will only have power if the transmission is in reverse. Is that how it was checked?

Do me a favor. Make a list of fuses without power and place them in either the central junction box (inside of the vehicle) or under the hood. I'm getting confused.

Let me know.

Joe

Good morning boss, I wasn't using the appropriate ground that is why I was getting those low values in those fuses. So far with the aid of the technician, we are getting the 5 volts at the TPS and injectors. DLC and PCM is communicating. When you turned the ignition on, the hazard light stay on and goes off. It shows that the new PCM is programmed. He is saying he is suspicious of the power holding relay as its ground is low and the fuse 9 is not getting voltage. He doesn't know why the switching ground in pin 26, 27 of the PCM is not supplying to starter. That is what is required to crank the engine. How do we do? How do we resolve this? I really appreciate you for being there and almighty God bless you real good.

The technician has been able to do of the job. He said the transmission sensor is bad. Rodents has cut off the wire to the fuel pump socket (connector). Can I get the part number for these? Going by him, the car will start now. You have been of immense help and support. God bless you for showing so much concern.

Hi,

As far as a part number, I did find one for the transmission range sensor. See pic below. That is the OEM part number. As far as a part number for the fuel pump wiring harness, that isn't something that is provided in any of my manuals.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pic below.

Greetings boss, the technician has made significant progress. The car starts from the key. However, there are still some shortfalls. The number one is that repeated switch on and off, the well charged battery ran down. The number two is that when the headlamps are connected to a direct power, it turned on, but it cannot turn on from circuit. The number three is that when the car was scanned, it reads circuit fuel A, but he said that the fuel circuit has been repaired as the fuel pump was changed. Fourthly, the sound is not very comfortable. Lastly, when he turns on the ignition, the battery charging, airbag and low oil pressure stay lit before going off. I can't remember that is how it used to be. From the headlamps that has not come up and poor charge storing, there is still a faulty circuit which is the original problem. All advice and suggestions are welcome. Thanks very much and God bless you sir.

Very importantly too, it will idle for a few minutes and stop.

Hi,

Wow, I'm not sure where to start. LOL When you try starting it, if I understand correctly, it takes a few tries. That sounds like fuel pressure drop-off. Try something for me. Do this and let me know what happens:

1) Turn the key from off to the run position (engine off) and count to 5.

2) Turn the key off and repeat step 1 a total of four times.

3) On the 5th time, see if it starts normally.

Let me know.

Joe

Good day sir, I felt exhausted from the three days working on the car. I tried the key in the engine run not start, in a number of 5 times. Different illumination light turned on and off on the cluster illumination but the car couldn't start with 12.39 volts. I am now looking for a higher voltage battery to start it. I was expecting 12.39 should start it. I don't really know if the problem has been resolved. He said the engine is misfiring, i should service the injectors. From my Haynes manual, the only possible cause of misfire here is the crankshaft position sensor. Thanks very much for encouragement and God bless you bountifully.

Hi,

If you have 12.39v, that isn't the problem. If I recall correctly, 9.6v is the minimum needed for the ignition system to properly function (that is while the starter is engaged).

After it runs and then stalls, does it restart again, or do you have to wait?

Let me know.

Joe

Greetings, boss. I just want to thank you for your immense contributions. My observation is that the ignition always responds when the key is turned to the on position, but the car can't start. All the cluster instrument lights will come up. Then, I just noticed that the moonlight is not working yet, along with the trunk interior light. I can see they are controlled by the battery saver. Unfortunately, from my last discussion with the technician, he hasn't grasped the concept of the battery saver. Do you think the battery saver relay or circuit is an issue here? Can a parasitic draw test resolve it? The engine is making an attempt to crank whenever it is turned on, which shows that the starter motor is engaged, but the car won't start. Thank you very much for your contributions and efforts. May almighty God enrich you with knowledge and wisdom.

Hi,

If I understand correctly, he got it to start but when it shuts off, it doesn't want to restart. Is that correct?

If that is the case, then either we are losing the ignition spark or fuel to the engine. When it cranks and doesn't start, see if it will start if you use starting fluid. If it does, then we have a fuel related issue.

As far as a parasitic draw, if your battery maintains 12.39v, that isn't the issue. If there was a draw, the battery voltage would drop off.

Let me know.

Joe

Good morning, sir. I left the battery insitu in the car overnight. I checked it at the night, it was 12.32. And this morning I went to check it again. It is 12.25. I am still leaving it in the car till in the evening to see the reading. He carried out the procedure you mentioned in the course of his work. One of programmed key was cut manually, so it doesn't fit well. Trying to get the other one cut. As far as fuel system, he suggested i change the fuel filter and i am trying to get that. I still see the car starting with so much resistance which it was supposed not to be. Thank you very much for coming through.

Could there be correlation with the images and what I am insinuating, and the seatbelt illumination could an indication of something?

At the moment, it is 12.21.

Hi,

I don't feel what is identified in the schematic is the issue. Also, the battery drop isn't too bad. Remember, there is a constant draw on the battery at all times regardless of if the key is in the ignition or not.

Let me know.

Joe

Good day boss, a wrap up of the components that need to be fixed before the car can be on the road. I just discovered to my greatest dismay that I couldn't find the power steering switch connector. I saw it on rockauto.com but don't know the perfect match. I also need to replace the upper coolant reservoir hose, ignition capacitor, the exhaust nut, the throttle body bolt you identified earlier, the injectors, the horn, fuel filter. I might not have OEM of some of these parts again. Kindly help me with the part numbers or a direct link to source for them online. It could be their aftermarket or rebuild. The one you feel could be affordable and reliable quality. I want to avoid error because of the time and distance for me to order and receive them. Thank you very much and God bless you real good. We have made so much progress. Thanks to your support, patience and time.