Will not start

Hey Poppyjack,

It sounds like it is the EFI relay has let go which is common on these trucks. Here is a guide to help confirm the issue and the location of the relay in the diagrams below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

Yes! I was having the same problem and bam! all fixed thanks you guys I love this site.

Engine turns over, has gas, squirted engine starter fluid in, replaced rotor and distributor cap, igniter unit, fuses tested okay. I just replaced clutch and pressure plate had test drive and was doing fine, then shut off.

First off do not use starter fluid on your engine it is hard on them, use carburetor or injector spray cleaner instead. Now tell me does it have spark?

No it does not have spark, pulled a plug wire and turned engine over no spark through the wire.

Okay, if you would pull the coil wire off and use a screwdriver and put it in the end and put it near metal and crank it over and see if there is spark coming from the coil wire. What we are doing here is taking the cap and rotor out to the equation. Let me know what you find.

Did the coil with screwdriver test, no spark from the coil. Should I replace the coil? I am on a very limited budget. Already replaced the cap and rotor and igniter.

Will not start during the morning or when it rained. In other words when the engine is cold. Engine would start at around 0830/0930 hours when the sun starting to get hot. Will not start at night also. Cracked loose the fuel pipe at the left hand delivery pipe when it will not start and there is no fuel coming out of the fuel pipe, but ignition is firing.

With a limited budget lets test it first if you can. If you have a digital ohm meter or can borrow one then lets check it. The primary resistance should be .4 to .5 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms. I have included pictures below. The first is how to check the primary resistance and the second one it how to check the secondary resistance. If any of it is not as I have said it should be then replace the coil. Let me know how it goes. I also must ask do you have power to the positive side of the coil with key on? Primary test.

Secondary test.

Check fuel pressure with a gauge, your pump may be bad.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Tried the coil test and it was out of tolerance. Replaced coil with new one still no spark. There is power going in to new coil but none coming out.

I have power going to both sides of coil with key on when it is hooked up and outgoing side is unplugged to check for spark there is none going out.

You did replace the igniter that is ontop of the coil right? Did you replace anything else inside the distributor or? Get back to me so we can do some more testing.

As in my first post I said I replaced the distributor and rotor with a new one and replaced the igniter with a used one from junk yard cannot afford a brand new one. please let me know what the next 3-4 steps are like if this does not work then try this and if that does not try that.

Four cylinder two wheel drive manual 177,000 miles.

I am having issues with my truck not turning over. I was driving the truck one day and sitting at idle, I then went to accelerate and the truck stalled. It would not start up after that. After getting it home and being able to look at it, found that there is no spark. After searching around on the web I found some suggestions to first switch out the distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires, my plugs were still pretty new, did that and nothing still. Next was possibly a bad coil, got another to try, still nothing, next after finally tracking one down, I replaced the igniter plus a different coil. Still not starting. I am not getting any check engine lights or codes, I have checked the rotor pickup coil for proper resistance as the Haynes manual says, I get 12 volts to one side of the ignition coil. Any ideas?

Okay, now that I know that you replaced what I know to be the igniter (you would be surprised at what some think it is) with the tests you have run with the results that you have said you have the igniter you purchased at the wrecking yard is bad. I would see if the wrecking yard would exchange it. There is one test to do check for continuity between the negative side of the coil (use previous picture) and the body of the igniter if there is continuity the igniter is bad. Let me know what you find.

How do I go about testing those wires? What am I testing for? Continuity?

Put in new igniter and still does not start. I am out of options now what.

Short to ground and an open wire.

Okay, so how many volts are at the positive side of the coil with key on? How many volts are at the negative side of the coil with key on? Now how many volts are at those points when cranking? Also, tell me how much power is at the igniter both with key on and cranking. Now I also need to know what the resistance is of the coil wire. If all this checks out then we will be checking the signal from the ECU which usually will set a code 14. I would also like you to check the resistance at the pickup coil. Unplug the distributor and follow the picture below to do the test. Now check ohms between the following terminals. Between term G1 and G, then G2 and G and then NE and G. Let me know what the ohms are there. Get back to me with the needed information and we will take it to the next step from there.

Stupid question, but how do I go about doing that?

Well, while doing the tests you mentioned, we noticed that when cranking the engine, the rotor does not move, time gear belt busted?

Four cylinder two wheel drive manual.

I did a head gasket now it will not run. I have spark and fuel.

You probably did not align the cam and crank properly.

You need an ohmmeter to check for resistances/continuity.

Well, I would say that if the distributor rotor does not turn that yes the timing belt is probably broken. You will have to pull the upper belt cover and check to see if the belt is turning when cranking or not. Here is a picture of what all is in there. If you find a broken belt I would plan on the belt the tension-er and idlers and water pump sense the belt drive the water pump.

How can I make sure that the timing is set right?

After I replace the belt what are the timing positions for the crank and drive shaft?

Put the engine's number one piston on its compression stroke/TDC then align it-remove the distributor and restab it and make sure rotor is pointing to the cap number tower as indicated in the repair manual.

Here are the timing marks. If you need anything else just let me know. Also let me know the outcome okay.

Where is the crank mark supposed be is the key on the crank?

Thanks got it running, but still runs a little rough. How can I adjust it so it runs smooth? Plugs and plug wires are new, spark plugs are gaped properly, new igniter and coil and distributor and rotor. Was timed digitally, so anything else I can do?

Once a day, maybe twice but mostly first starting after it has sat for a while the truck will not start. No cranking, no nothing. Then once I turn the key off and try again it starts fine and the problem will not duplicate again for a while. Does not seem like a loose connection kind of issue. Was thinking starter relay or safety switch? Maybe solenoid?

The timing mark is on the crankshaft sprocket should be position six o'clock. Are you using a repair manual or just playing it by ear?

Hi yotaguy,

Could be:
1. Ignition switch.
2. Solenoid, could be loose wire.
3. Starter. Carbon might be running low or contaminated. Additional clicking of the solenoid sometimes makes it work.

Okay, if you would do a compression test just so we know where it all stands. These engines do have a head gasket problem on the right (passenger) side. Most are on recall. So first things first check compression and lets take it from there.

156,000 miles and standard transmission. Lately the truck has not been starting very well. When I got to start the truck all I hear is a click. After trying the ignition multiple times and depressing the gas pedal the truck will finally start. I had the battery and alternator checked and they are fine and the truck runs great once it gets going, so I am kind of at a loss as to what the problem is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like the starter. Next time it will not crank, check for power at the small wire on the starter. If it has and no crank, starter is bad.

I replaced the starter and the truck ran great for about a month. Now the truck engine will turn over but not start. Any thoughts?

Fuel pressure? spark? injector pulse?