no starter operation engine is not turning over?

Hi RayHarkleroad,

Thank you for the donation.

Seems problem is with battery power. As the charging system and battery are confirmed to be working correctly and vehicle starts with a jump, I would suggest checking for power drain.

One of the components could be faulty causing the battery to be drained when left parked.

Most common would be the brake lights, a faulty switch would leave the lights on all the time.
Next would be relays. Sometimes relays tends to stick and this would cause the components concerned to be powered even when the ignition is turned OFF.
Other items to check would be accessories.

Get a power drain test to check if the battery is draining while parked.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

There is no battery drain - both the battery and the alternator are doing fine. Problem is that when I put the key in the ignition and crank, nothing happens.

Once I have started the car using a jump, the "repair" is good for the day, but next morning, an attempt to start again is without success. There is no life - no lights on the dash, no cranking of the engine, absolutely nothing. A quick jump brings everything back to good and remains that way for the day, but a repeat of the problem occurs the following mornng.

There must be a battery drain somewhere to cause the battery to go flat.

Check the battery terminal connections to be sure they are providing the correct contact.

The battery is NOT going flat! The battery and the alternator are fine. When parked overnight, the next morning when starting is attempted, nothing is happening. No lights/no crank/no nothing. The battery is testing fully charged, the alternator is putting out well, and when restart is attempted on the same day, nothing is a problem. Next morning though, nothing at all.
Battery cables are clean and well attached.

You mentioned a jump start works, if that is the case, how can the battery be fully charged?

You are asking to evaluate but I am only stating the facts. Yes, the battery is fine and yes a jump works to get it started. I am trying to determine the problem and find a solution. These are facts.
The battery cables appear to have no problem (checked both by me and Sears), and if that is the case, what would cause this scenario?

If a jump start works, either the battery is bad or you have connections problems. I do not understand why you insist that the battery is fully charged.

What is the battery voltage when it does not crank?
After installation of the jump cables, does the dash indicators come on?

The battery is fine and alternator output is fine as confirmed by testing at Sears. Do the dash lights come on when cables attached? Don't know that answer - simply did not observe when I jumped the vehicle.
The key was not in the on position when the cables were attached, and when I got into the car to start, it immediately cranked with the key. And as I said, once started, I had no further problem that day. The problem recurred the next morning, indicating no resolutin was found.

When there is a battery drain, it means the power from the battery has been drained off. After starting, the battery is recharged as the charging system and battery is good. When tests are made, this would show them to be good.

After parking overnight, if a component that is supposed to be OFF is working, it would be draining the battery and causing it to go flat. When you try to restart, you do not have power. Check the battery voltage when you could not start and not after running engine.

Of course I have no means to check the battery in the morning as I lack any such test equipment. However, the likelyhood of my starting the car with a jump and fully recharging causes me doubt. The drive to Sears is less than 3 miles and less than 10 minutes.
I don't know that what you are suggesting so far is addressing the issue, but I can see if there is anything that might be draining the battery. The only thing that comes to mind is a roof light that has never worked well, and I did recently place a bulb in there even though it did not correct the roof light.
Any other suggestions?

For a battery that is drained and in good condition, it does not require a long time for it to be recharged. Without the ability to test the battery voltage, you have no means to understand the battery condition at that instant. When it works with a jumper, it definitely indicates a battery power problem.

Did you check if the dash indicator lights turns on when ignition key is turned to ON?
Are the headlights, horns and hazard lights working when you were not able to start?
If you have not removed the battery terminals, disconnect them and check for contaminations. Clean them if necessary.

Check the battery negative ground to body connections.

The non working roof light should not be the cause.

A stuck fan relay would cause the fans to remain on without stopping and it could be intermittent.

ok..here goes..i posted up a question about a month ago and alas the car is still not working :) i definitely appreciated the answers and the input which is why im asking again..

my battery is fully charged..i had the car when it was running tested at autozone(the starter and ignition test) and the person who ran the test informed me that everything was working fine.

several weeks later, my car just wouldn't start..my roomate suggested to try jumping it..so we did..and it started.

Several days later, the car was just dead again. I put the key in, all the dash lights come on, but as soon as i turn the key it just goes click, and all my dash lights go off, i lose all power.

So we tried to jump it again. We sat there for about a half hour letting the battery get a charge, thinking it was dead. tried to start it and alls i was hearing was just a very fast clicking sound, like the car wanted to turn over but it just didnt have enough juice to do so.

for shits and giggles i had the battery tested again, battery was still good. my car has been sitting in the same parking spot at my apartment and im very scared some ass hat is gonna tow it but thats another matter..
i dont know what else to do.

I know there was an anti theft system in it when i purchased the car from some dude..that was causing the car to not start sometimes..but after i unplugged the anti theft, it ran fine for a while..now something is just draining my power some where and i cant get it to start.

in the lower left hand kick panel, in the fuses, there is a square black plug which says relay on it. when i turn the key i would get like a clicking or a popping sound from it.

i know nothing about wiring..i've downloaded every wiring diagram on 93 celicas that i can get my hands on..im also thinking maybe the ignition switch? but i think the bottom line is the person who installed the anti theft didnt know what the hell he was doing and seriously messed up my wiring..

any ideas? id appreciate some feed back..if you read through this whole thing? i appreciate it even more..just trying to be as descriptive as i can

thanks again
mike

When a jump start works, it means the starter is not getting the required capacity of power supplied.

With a good battery and the symptoms described, I believe you have a loose connections somewhere. Try cleaning the battery terminals and retighten them accordingly. Check for a bad ground cable to the transmission.

The next time this occurs, instead of a jump start, clamp a jumper cable to the negative terminal of the battery and clamp the other end to any part of the engine or transmission that can provide a good ground and try starting. If you are able to crank easily, that would mean a bad ground circuit connection between the battery and engine/transmission.

thanks for the input. :) i believe im going to go attempt that now:)

if its a bad ground cable is it just one cable can i ask? or is it a series of wires? im horrible at electrical..
and is it also costly to fix?

The main ground cable is only one, from battery negative terminal to the transmission. It has a branch that is bolted to inner side fender.

There are other ground circuits between the engine and firewall with another between the engine and inner fender at timing belt end.

If the wire is corroded, you would need to replace it and the wire should not cost too much. The junk yard should have plenty of them.

hey back again :) i tried jumping it with one hooked up to the negative the other hooked to a spot on the engine..no start..
i removed the negative terminal cable, un bolted it..im gonna try replacing it, hoping that works

Have you tested the battery voltage?

yeah battery voltage was in the optimal range

KHLow2008 IS PROBABLY RIGHT

IF THIS IS "SIDE POST".....DO YOU KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE BOLT AND SLIDE THE RUBBER COVER DOWN THE CABLE IN ORDER TO CLEAN THE "LOLLIPOP" CONTACT PORTION REALLY GOOD AS WELL AS THE SIDE-POST LEAD PORTION OF THE BATTERY??????

I HAVEN'T DONE IT YET, BUT I WILL SOON MAKE PICS OF THE PROCESS....SORRY IT'S NOT BEEN DONE YET

HERE'S A LITTLE MOTIVATION

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

KEEP US UPDATED

THE MEDIC

I have the same exact car with about the same amount of miles and have the same exact problem, mine is stick shift. I have replaced the starter and battery, so I think that there is bad wiring somewhere. One thing I noticed is that when I leave my stereo on for a while, without my car running, most of the time it wont start. I need to address my wiring though....if I solve the problem I will be sure to post it

Check the alternator charging.

hey all..this car is driving me crazy so i figured i'd drop a line, see if i can get some help..anyhoo

1993 celica. high mileage but the maintenence has been performed.
Car will not start. It will be running great for a few days, but then i will go out to start it, and i will get nothing. Just a click.
I noticed then at that point by accident after taking the key out, that even with the key out, i can still use my power windows and sunroof..just not the radio or horn.
Now, up until may, the car did have an aftermarket alarm system, some crime stopper model..the anti theft activated several times, killing the car..the kill switches didnt work, so i just ripped out the crime stopper box. car was running fine. until now :) lol

Now when i turn the key, there is a clicking noise coming from the lower left hand panel..the clicking noise is coming from a a black plug marked relay isd m4-s 12 v. it was getting warm when i left the key. sometimes if i wiggle the wires the car starts but, at this point i am at my wits end..the starters good..the batterys good (both tested). i think this antitheft is somehow still in there and stopping my car from starting..any ideas?

i appreciate your help if you've read through this thanks
mike

wiggle what wires?? where??

sounds like an ignition switch issue.

Roy

sorry i wasnt more specific..my dad did it actually one time when it died..the wires that are going into the steering wheel underneath the dash. its all screwed up there and i no next to nothing about wiring :(
this might be stupid to ask but where is the ignition switch?

i appreciate the reply :)

Ignition switch is at end of steering lock. The opposite end of where you insert the key.

thanks ill have to check it out

is ignition a switch a pain to do?

Not really. Rather a simple job but you need to disconnect the battery first as it has hot wires that can carry high amperage and can cause damages if accidentally shorted.

You need to remove the steering cover to get at it.

hmm thanks a lot :) when testing the igntion switch should i use a multimeter or continuity tester? im asking because i know nothing of wiring..i can change oil brakes and damn near everything else but i suck at wiring..once again i really appreciate the help

If you wish to test the ignition switch, do not disconnect the battery as you need to test the switch under operating mode, ie turning the key to start..
Testing the voltage would be a better option as you would be turning the ignition switch to see if it cranks and you do not know when it works and when not. Testing the continuity might not be accurate.

i am at my wits end here..it also doesnt help that i know next to nothing about electrical issues. i knwo there is still wiring left over from the "alarm" system but im not sure if i should just rip those out or whatever. I know that all the lights on my dash are on...sometimes the chime when the key is in goes in and out when i wiggle the wires leading to the ignition. im still getting the click from the relay plug in the lower left kick panel. i have no equipment, no money, lol the usual..im sure some of you know how it is. car is still not starting, just getting a click from the relay..i tried to jump it..its just making a very fast clicking noise like it wants to turn over but it just isnt getting the juice..as i said previously, battery's been tested..i took the car to autozone about a month ago and they ran the ignition system and battery test and it was all good so i do not know what to do..i am half tempted to just set the car on fire..lol

really appreciate the answers..and if anyone is in the baltimore/glen burnie maryland area and wants to give me a hand ill pay you what i have for the help..i would greatly appreciate it

I believe the ignition switch is faulty.

Wiring is not difficult if you understand the basics. If you can use a voltmeter, I can guide you along.

As to the alarm wiring, if they are not used, getting rid of them would be the best. Just ensure if any wires had been bypassed, reconnect them back.

yesterday the car started right up & ran great with no problems. today when i went out & tried 2 start the car nothing happened, the engine wouldn't turn over, the lights every thing works except the engine won't turn over could there be a possible short some where or a wire not connected what could the problem be?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over

Go to above link for more information.

If vehicle is automatic transmission, ensure gear shift is in P. Try N if it does not work.

Car wont start sometimes, does not even crank.. tryed to start it a couple hours later and fires up like new!, the battery and alternator are brand new what might be the problem? : , did the same thing before i bought a new alternator and battery which didnt help..., thanks! :), may not be an electrical problem?

Do you hear a click when you turn the key to start? If not the relay is bad, if yes the starter is bad...

nope no click no nothing makes a lil noise like it wants to crank but it dont., which relay and what kind of relay would i need?

Relay is located in the fusebox