AC will not stay cold?

This sounds like the system is low on charge these videos can help fix it.

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek

and

https://youtu.be/4UjfQKvrB6Y

Could be freezing up due to air and moisture blocking off the orifice tube and needs vacuuming out-

how do you clean it or vacuum it? wheres it located?
thanks

You need a vacuum pump-best just birng it in

brought in twice and they did not solve problem. i would like to do myself but cannot find drain tube?

I have a 1994 Camry and every time I forget to put up my sun shade or I am on a longer trip, and the sun is shining hot on the dashboard, the air conditioner stops working. This last time it actually blew hot air. I turned the AC off, stopped the car and waited for 40 minutes. When I started the car again, the AC blew very cold. My mother had a Lexus that had a similar problem. Is this a Toyota issue?

I had a similar problem, Camry 95 AC not working when hot. The problem was the "Fan speed" control on the dashboard. I discovered that when wiggling the knob the fan was turning on and off even if the knob remained in the "Auto" position. By removing the switch and disassembling it and carefully cleaning the switch the AC now appear to work all the time regardless of ambient temperature and wiggling the knob doesn't affect the fan speed. Time used was about 1.5 hours including figuring out how to disassemble the dashboard panel to remove the climate controls. Note there appear to be different types of climate systems in the Camry models. Mine has the push buttons for air flow selection and the fan speed control has OFF, AUTO and Low to High.
Hope this helps.

A/C clutch and fans initially started clicking on and off quickly along with the fans and also the light in control button blinking and corresponding warm and cold air from vents. I am a mechanic and I am pretty certain no refrigerant has leaked out as I have dye in my system and I monitor/inspect my car three times weekly and no leaks visually. there is still pressure at valve core fittings when slightly pressed to check. With possibly no refrigerant escaping out and the clutch clicking on and off until now, not at all. I need help to troubleshoot.

Just because you cannot see dye visually does not mean you do not have a leak. Evacuate and recharge is the only way to confirm capacity.

Those older Toyota's are tricky because they use an rpm sensor in the compressor and a module in the control head to monitor it. They do not store any codes and are very tricky to diagnose. The rpm sensors in the compressors fail often causing the AC button to start flashing. Turning it off and back on usually restarts it until it triggers again.

The one thing I forgot to mention is that the green light in the control button does not even come on or flash at all and that was one of the first things I noticed. Do you have an electrical schematic for the A/C system? What is the control head? Also, for example if I evacuate the system and try to refill it and the compressor clutch with not engage due to something faulty. how can I fill it? Is it possible you can help me troubleshoot the electrical portion of the system a little first? Verify some of the electrical items first? I would like a little help with that first.

If you are using a recovery machine to evacuate and recharge as you should be, it will charge with the engine off.

If you have no light on the AC button, then your issue is electrical. First thing to do is test the fuses with a test light and make sure the control head is getting power. The control head is the switch assembly inside. If that light is not lighting up, then the switch is not working for some reason.

Before I can get you a wiring diagram I need to know if you have push button controls or levers.

The A/C switch is a button only. The temperature, vents etc., are all dials and a lever for the re-circulation/outside air. Yes, thanks I need help checking the fuses and electrical.

Here is your wiring diagram. It appears this one uses an amplifier (module) also.

Is there a better way to attach the image of the diagram? I am having a hard time reading it. It seems to be small. Is the rpm sensor on it? Also, I do know that before my A/C clutch completely stopped working the clutch and fans would energize simultaneously. Possibly both fans not one. But I do know that the fans turned on and off abruptly/quickly as well as the clutch. Also at this time the A/C button green light would not illuminate but the switch did turn on and off the clutch/fans.

There is nothing I can do about the size. The site shrinks it down automatically. You may have to save it to you computer and then enlarge it. The tachometer sensor is inside the compressor in the lower right of the diagram.

This is the kind of control panel I have. I still do not understand what they mean by push button or lever type. I was able to find a diagram online and there are two different diagrams like you said, one for push button and one for lever type and I am not sure what they mean. That is why I took a picture of my control panel.

My car is a 2.2 L, 5S-FE engine.

I gave you the correct diagram. You have lever type. This picture is what the push button type would look like.

I looked at my relay under hood by the air cleaner, drivers side front. Relay looks like it was cycling on and of a lot because it was blackened a little on the contact area. I removed it and checked it with battery voltage and a test light and the coil is working and allows power to transfer through and holds. Also, I have a 1992 parts car with lever type and I took that relay from the parts car and installed it and no difference. I did notice that the parts car AC switch light works even with or without the relay installed so that leans me towards the AC switch in dash control panel because my car initially had the problem of only the AC light not coming on, but AC system worked fine and AC blowing cold. I did hold down contact of the exposed relay with engine running and AC compressor clutch came on and air started to come out cold quickly.

The relay operates the compressor clutch, not the control head.

Schematic I have also.

Correct, so my question is why is AC switch light not illuminated when depressed? Either the switch itself or amplifier.

It is not going to be the amplifier if the AC switch does not light up because the switch tells the amplifier what to do. See if the switch has power coming in on the yellow/green wire.

Okay, I am going to look at the switch now after I access it via dash panels. Yeah, I was thinking same thing that the switch tells amplifier what to do.

The yellow wire with green tracer. It has power when key is in “on” position.

So, the switch should be lighting up at least and it is not. You might try getting some electrical contact cleaner and spraying it inside the switch while working the button, unplugged of course.

I have another switch from parts car.

Installed another switch same thing no change. With test light switch has power to yellow/green tracer wire and switch controls power to red/black tracer wire. I can observe the switch controlling power out to red/black tracer wire.

That is what you have the wiring diagram for.

Looking at your diagram I cannot figure out why the light is not coming on when switch is depressed. I know I have power coming in and power out when depressed.

It needs to have a ground path through a component on the output to complete the circuit.

Based on the diagram and both AC switches not lighting up, and what you mentioned initially, I am scrutinizing this rpm sensor on the AC compressor.

The magnetic clutch and lock sensor is shown open in the diagram. How can I check it to verify it is bad?

If the RPM sensor is bad, the AC switch will flash.

The white/blue white/red wires are going to the sensor. This is what it looks like.

Still trying to figure out why light in A/C switch not coming on. I need help figuring out the diagram. You said it needs a ground path on the output of a the A/C switch to light up the button. I cannot figure out what to check.

The two wires coming out of the A/C switch go to the amplifier.

As I told you in the very first response, this system is very difficult to diagnose because it is a primitive system with no internal monitors. The amplifier is highly suspect and i know of no way to test it.

Okay, thanks.

I am pleased to report that I swapped out the amplifier with one from junkyard and It fixed my problem. Everything is working fine now. The glove box has to be removed and the amplifier is attached by a Philips screw and bracket to the tube that supports the dash. I am mentioning this so others will know. My AC light was not blinking but totally off. That is why I decided to change the amplifier before the rpm sensor on the compressor. Like you said, the blinking light is associated with the rpm sensor. I opened up the amplifier and I could see burning on the circuit board.Thanks for your help with this.

This is what the amplifier looks like.