why would a car shuts off for no reason?

Test the coil, distributor pick -up coils and the ignition switch to include the airflow meter.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

This happened to my truck and it was the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, it doesn't pick up register how much air is going into your cylinders and cuts off

1994/4cyl.Camry(Cali)/auto/199,999 miles- Seems like an EFI problem. Engine will shut off while driving, and it feels like it's running out of fuel. Replaced EFI relay under the hood, ran for 2 weeks and now its doing it again...? The cars from California, has check engine light, and BF Goodwrench said its due to distributor issue. They said the previous owner had put the wrong kind of spark plug leads on it, but it gets spark. Like I said, it ran for a solid two weeks before it started bogging down again. I went out tonight and bought another EFI relay just to see if the car is somehow destroying it. After I replaced it, it started right up and made it home(.5 mile).

Check and test the circuit opening relay and the airflow meter-Do this block open the airflap on the airflow and test drive it and see what happens-let me know

Will do, I'll let you know asap. Thanks for the quick response, this seems to be a good site.

How exactly would I do this by the way?

Just block the airflap open on the air flow meter with an object

When I start the car it will idle fine but as soon as you try to give it any gas it smothers out and quits running. I have replaced the following with no results, fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, spark plugs, three coils. It straightened up for a day after I changed the the fuel regulator but then did the same thing again. I have tried pulling the codes but cannot get the engine light to flash when I use a paper clip in the Diagnostic's plug under the hood. Please any help will be appreciated.

Check the fresh air tube between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. That cannot have loose hose clamps, cracks, or any other leaks. If any air sneaks in that does not go through the mass air flow sensor, it will not get measured and no fuel will be commanded to go with it.

I will check. I will check that here in a few minutes and let you know.

I've tried everything you suggested but still have the same failure of no idle and not accepting any throttle. I am at my wit's end and ready to torch this car I hope you have another idea

I've had the same frustration with tvs and car radios!

First try to read the fault codes with a scanner. '95 and older vehicles were pretty sparse with their codes, but if you can get in, look at sensor data to see what the Engine Computer is seeing. Incorrect temperature sensor readings cause some odd fuel-related performance problems. What you have to keep in mind with sensors is there is a range of readings the computer will accept as correct, even though they might be wrong. For example, the throttle position sensor is typically fed with 5.0 volts, then the acceptable range of signal voltage is approximately 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Anything outside that range sets a fault code. At idle the voltage will be 0.5 volts. While this is not a practical example, use it to illustrate my wondrous point. If the signal voltage was 2.7 volts while the throttle was closed, that would be the wrong voltage, but it would not set a fault code because 2.7 volts is within the acceptable range. This is where you have to compare all the readings to the actual operating conditions, and try to identify one that doesn't make sense.

Pay particular attention to the MAP sensor. Chrysler is the only manufacturer that has been able to make an engine run right without a mass air flow sensor. They do everything with the MAP sensor, which is extremely accurate to a level even more so that what is used. Other manufacturers usually also have a MAP sensor, but it can be for back-up strategy when the mass air flow sensor has a problem, only for barometric pressure readings, or it could be a second input for engine load. I don't know if any of that pertains to your engine, but see if that voltage responds to changes in manifold vacuum like it should.

my car runs greats once started, however 10 min. into driving once i stop at a light or stop sign, it completely shuts down. I cant figure out y??? I have changed fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator pressure , flushed ma radiator, changed distributor cap spark plugs basically all maintenance stuff. what else can i do lol wack!

There are several things I would try. The first thing is to clean the Idle Air Control Valve. It is located on the throttle body.
The next thing I would do is clean the MAF. It is located in the air intake hose. You can buy cleaner at most any auto parts store.

I've had this problem for a couple of weeks. It cranks up normal, after the car warms up it doesn't run smoothly when the gas pedal is pushed. Also, when i park the car and shift it back to park, it rev's up to 2000 rpm and stays. If I shift it to drive or reverse, the engine stalls and won't crank up. Slight gas smell. I've replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and pcv valve, and the mechanic has cleaned the throttle body and replaced the ignition coils. Any help would be appreciated.

I would look into testing the coolant temperature sensor as it sounds like you have a fueling issue. Based on how the coolant temperature sensor failed it can cause a rich condition. This will make it easier to start on cold starts but be actually over fueling when at operting temperature.

I would start there anyways based on what you have described.

I would also check for vacuum leaks

i have a 1994 toyota camry that the engine died on while driving. when i try to start it it now makes a weird sound. engine turns over but has no fire. can someone give me some ideas on what to try to fix this?

Do below to determine whether it's fuel or spark problem.

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

After being at highway speed and coming to a stop, the engine stumbles and cuts off. It will restart but not idle for several minutes. If left off for several minutes, it will restart and idle properly. Otherwise it runs perfectly.

Hi R. Tate,

Thank you for the donation.

The symptoms indicates a possible malfunction with the IAC. I would suggest cleaning the throttle body and IAC coupled with readjusting the the idling speed.

Hi,

I've visited my non-Toyota mechanic twice. He has a good reputation in the neighborhood for being very honest.

Back in 11/07, I had my tune up, as well as new spark plugs and timing belt replaced. All of a sudden in January, my car turned off while waiting at a stop light. It wasn't particularly hot or cold, but it was while I was out of town and had driven about 75 miles that day. It turned back on right away. It became an intermittent and entirely random problem, maybe once every couple of weeks or days. I don't drive that far usually, so my car doesn't normally get too hot and I couldn't find a particular pattern.

I barely drove it at all, but since I'm moving cross-country, I decided to get it checked out, as well as my oil change. The mechanic said this is a very common problem that the throttle is dirty, so they cleaned and lubed the assembly. The next day, it turned off again while at a stop light. I noticed that the idle dropped real low before it did so.

I brought it back. He said, it wasn't the assembly and he'd have to do testing and it wasn't going to be easy to find the problem. He couldn't replicate my problem and couldn't find anything wrong with the car, he ran all his diagnostics and drove it 5 miles without any problem. He said he "put chemicals in" to clean the fuel. I think he meant injectors (?) This was Friday. I drove my car about 5.5 miles later that night. It was super smooth (big difference in performance). Parked it. Three hours later, got in. Every time I stopped, it would hesitate. It didn't turn off but when I pressed the gas, it would hesitate.

Then I parked. When I tried to start the car, it cranked but wouldn't start. Ten minutes later it started fine and drove great.

It drove it twice today. In the morning it was fine but a little weird. The RPM almost went up to 3k just up a slight incline. While at a stop sign it seemed to idle a little loud and when it quieted down, I noticed the idle dropped very slightly. On my way home it was totally fine. Tonight, I drove it 5.5 miles, it hesitated at every stop light, even when warm (after a short jaunt on the freeway). A couple of hours later, I drove back and it didn't hesitate at all, but when I went to parallel park and was in reverse without pressing on the gas, the engine turned off. It did the same thing as yesterday and wouldn't turn on... I waited a few minutes, it turned on long enough for me to finish the parallel park and it turned off again.

What is going on? I'm so confused. I'm gonna take it back Monday to the mechanic but can't find any other posting with a story similar to mine...

Hi there,

i would be checking the air flow meter in the air cleaner, what they can do is become sticky and give a false reading to the ECU, now this will not trigger a fault code as it is stiil supplying input signals, just the wrong one. you can test the meter with a multi meter, i would start there.

mark (mhpautos)

Thank you. Would you have any ideas why the problem would have changed with the fuel cleaner? I mean, before the fuel cleaning it would stop every now and then, but start up right away. Now it is having frequent problems and not wanting to start up again. I am losing sleep over this ... so tired...

Hi there,

Get a fuel rail pressure test done, this will check for leaking injectoes7 have the pressure regulator tested as well

Mark (mhpautos)

It would be good to know if it is actually fuel that is the problem, when it stops, are you able to quickly check for spark and injector pulse? the second test will be a bit tricky as short notice but with a screw driver held against the injector, using it as a stereoscope, you should hear the injector "click" when you try and start the engine.

Mark (mhpautos)

yeah, it's kinda interesting. i took the car to the dealer. i'm not a mechanic so i don't know how to do what you were talking about. i barely know how to check my fluids. though i really want to learn these things! it's important.

they found the solution after driving around and it breaking down on them. they said it was the ect sensor. i have to say, that when i drive the car i feel a knot in my gut, cause i'm worried they got the wrong thing. i mean, i believe them, but after all this drama, i don't know whether to believe it or not!

HELLO HELLO HELLO.....my car issue is it stalls when i come to a stop. if I floor the gas pedal it sometimes prevents the car front cutting off. I just replaced the fuel filter... PROBLEM just started up again..hmmm.. what else could it be??? THANKYOU HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL OF YOU

Have these items checked-Idle air control valve, throttle position sensor and the EGR system.

engine coolant temp sensor?

I am having the exact same problem....with my 1994...4 cyl...139,000 mile Toyota Camry...


My car is doing the same thing...I also have had a new fuel filter put on mine...my car mostly only does it when it rains....I have also had a new distributar put on it and it still does the same thing...when it decides to it will shut off everytime I come to a stop...or after it ahs been sitting and idling a few minutes....

The exact same thing is happening with my 94 camry. Did this solve your problem?

ChelleMoore,

Do the above that I've suggested and comeback and let me know what's happening.

My Camry has been stalling as of late. I have taken it into Toyota who advise the car has no codes and cleaned the intake manafold. The car has a slight hesitation when driving above 3000 rpm. It then drops its RPM's at stops which leads to a stall. If I restart the problem goes away until again I drive above 3000 rpm. If at the time before stalling I put the car in neutral and rev it up, it idles fine. It also idles fine when I drive on a trip and keep my rpm ess than 3000.

Have the fuel pressure check and also the TPS

check the egr valve. it sounds like the valve is sticking and or stuck!

I have a 1994 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder xle and after approximately 6mins., it stalls every time I stop at a stop sign or red light with my foot on the brake in DRIVE position. I've had the intake system checked and cleaned and the air hose replaced and a lot of other stuff cleaned or replaced. I've also noticed that it IDLES very low when it's in the DRIVE position with my foot on the brake. It shakes , then stalls. Could it be something related to the spark plugs or the idle itself or some other hose--I don't see any rips in any of the hoses. I'm at my wits end. Please help me with any info you may have to resolve this problem I'm experiencing with this car. It'll be much appreciated. Thank you so much.
Jason

Does the vehicle seem to have a miss just before it dies?? if so, a common problem is that the ignition coil will get a crack in it. the only way to see this is to remove the distributor cap, and rotor and protector piece under the rotor. visual inspection will reveal a crack.. be sure that you have a absense of spark through the spark plug wires before spending the time to inspect the coil..

A friend jump started another car and it created a charging problem on his. After this his car died as a result of a low battery. He replaced the alternator and once again had the same problem. He returned the alternator and after testing they found the regulator no good and suggested a short somewhere. I have looked at it and checked the fuses in the kick panel and under the hood and all are good. My question is where to start to look for a short. Any ideas ? Thanks for the help in advance !

I HAVE YET TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO COPY A "PRODEMAND" DIAGRAM AND POST IT

(ALWAYS SAVES AS WEBPAGE COMPLETE) I'LL SOON GET ANOTHER FELLER ON HERE TO SHOW ME HOW!

2 CHOICES FOR YOUR CAR 2.2L AND 3.0L, I GRABBED 2.2L AND A "DX"

IT MAY BE THAT ALL OF THE MODELS ARE THE SAME DIAGRAM, I DON'T KNOW, IF THIS AIN'T WORKIN', FILL ME IN WITH ALL CORRECT INFO OR THE VIN #

AS FAR AS POSSIBLE "GAPS" OR "OPENS" THAT MAY NORMALLY OCCUR IN A CIRCUIT (NOT A SHORT)

READING THE SIMPLE CHARGING DIAGRAM I FOUND ONLY THESE, IN THE CIRCUITS RELATED TO OR GOING TO THE ALTERNATOR

A) GAUGE FUSE 10A LEFT OF INST PANEL

B) ALT-S FUSE 7.5A LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

C) IGN FUSE 7.5A LEFT OF INST PANEL

D) ALT FUSE 100A LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

E) FUSIBLE LINK (SHOWN NEAR/ AFTER THE BATTERY BEFORE JUICE REACHES "D")

I'M BETTING ON THE FUSIBLE LINK!!!

RETURN WITH GOOD NEWS!

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

THE MEDIC

And also go to this link that will help find a short circuit: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Step 8 - If no other electrical accessory is causing the battery to drain overnight, a manual draw check of the electrical system will need to be performed. What this means is, you will be checking the electrical draw from the battery with the key in the "off" position" and doors closed. First open the hood and disable the under hood illumination light, if equipped. Next, with the key in the "OFF" position and the doors closed (drivers side window down) wait 15 minutes, then disconnect the battery cable on the negative side. (15 minute wait allows the computers to go into "sleep mode" which shuts down all electrical systems). Attach a test light between the negative battery cable end, and the negative battery terminal. The test light should illuminate dimly or not at all. If the test light is "ON" brightly there is a strong electrical draw in the system. To locate this electrical draw start removing fuses one at a time. When the test light goes out the circuit in question has been located. You will need a car repair manual to identify all accessories in a particular circuit, repair as needed and re-check system.

Hey-Buddy I like your Nativity-Granada 83-Razzy