Temperature gauge dropping to almost cold at highway speeds

2003 FORD RANGER
90,000 MILES • 2.3L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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CSOSA123456
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-Replaced the thermostat (twice) along with the water pump and the overflow tank cap.
-Heater core is not clogged.
-I have burped the lines countless times and made sure the coolant is at the appropriate level.
-Reasonably sure there is no coolant leak, definitely not at the t-start or water pump.
-Followed the procedure to bleed the system, 5 mins at 4k RPM three times.
-Has not overheated yet. Think that it could be due to an air bubble in the cooling system. Any ideas? Feel like I’m chasing a gremlin.
Apr 5, 2021 at 3:27 PM
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STRAILER
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I have seen a bad connection at the engine coolant sensor cause this issue. If the connection is good I would replace the sensor. here is at the location so you can check it out. Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
Apr 7, 2021 at 11:11 AM
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CSOSA123456
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I neglected to mention I also installed a heater control valve, since the previous owner bypassed it.

Checked all of the connection points in the coolant flow and noticed there was a small but steady drip from the joint in the heater control valve unit, which could be the cause of this. unfortunately the POS doesn’t have a warranty from AutoZone, so i also bypassed it :-)

will update to see if the coolant temperature drop goes away.
Apr 19, 2021 at 4:03 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

We haven't heard from you for a couple of days. I was wondering if any progress has been made. We're interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
Apr 21, 2021 at 8:11 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Hi Joe,

I haven’t had a chance to take a long highway drive, but will report back once I do.
Apr 23, 2021 at 11:24 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

No problem whatsoever. We just like to make sure you are taken care of. When you have a chance, let us know.

Take care,

Joe
Apr 23, 2021 at 6:23 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Hi all,

i’ve attached some images from my long drive today. observations:

1. truck did not overheat.
2. the temperature gauge only read higher than center when coming off the highway, or immediately after going from high speed to slow speed. after that it stayed in the middle or dipped below center.
3. this time the temperature gauge was below center at various speeds; however while idling it was dead center.
4. i don’t think it’s the coolant temperature sensor because i switched the temperature to full hot and while the gauge was below center the temperature at the air vents was not that hot.
5. the last photo of the engine bay: car is off after my drive, no coolant spilling from the overflow tank and the system is fully pressurised; the coolant hoses are all hard.

should i suspect the thermostat at this point?
Apr 26, 2021 at 1:50 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

It appears that the thermostat isn't restricting coolant flow based on temperature. You already replaced it. The only thing you could do is remove it and test it.

Basically, place the thermostat in boiling water and see if it fully opens. Then, remove the heat and allow the water to begin cooling. It should start going shut right around 195°F.

Removal and replacement directions are in the attachments below.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.


Apr 26, 2021 at 7:51 PM
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CSOSA123456
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replaced the thermostat a third time yesterday with a part from 1A auto at fleabay, will report back.
May 3, 2021 at 10:02 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Sounds like a good plan. Let me know the results if you get the chance.

Also, make sure all the air is out of the cooling system. I placed the directions for refilling and bleeding the system below.

I hope this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
May 3, 2021 at 5:54 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Replaced the thermostat again, still having the overcooling issue so at this point i’m ruling out the possibility of the thermostat causing the issue.

i know the truck is:

A. circulating coolant
B .maintaining coolant system pressure, although i don’t know how much pressure. i’m sure the coolant cap has a bypass when it passes over 16 PSI, so doubt it could be over-pressurising.

any logical next steps? should i do a full deep coolant system flush and refill/bleed?
May 15, 2021 at 7:49 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Is the cooling fan staying fully engaged all the time? The fan clutch may not be released when the underhood temperature is below a certain point.

See pic below. When driving, does it sound like there is excessive noise from the fan?

Let me know.

Joe
May 15, 2021 at 8:15 PM
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CSOSA123456
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I spun the fan around with the truck completely cold and:

1. it’s not stuck.
2. it’s not consistent in resistance around 360 degrees; i.e. from 0 to 270 it’s harder to spin than from 270 back to 0.
3. As far as making excessive whooshing sound when driving, I don’t have a good base for it, but as I mentioned above, it’s not completely stuck.
4. the overcooling isn’t consistent, it started happening yesterday towards the tail end of my 2 hour drive and it started when on the freeway driving at around 70+ mph and 3k+ rpm.
May 16, 2021 at 7:05 AM
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CSOSA123456
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update: bit the bullet and picked up/installed a new fan clutch from autozone. the old fan clutch wouldn’t really spin at all when the truck was cold.

off the bat there is much less startup noise. will report back after the next time i take a long drive.
May 16, 2021 at 3:50 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If there was a lot of fan noise at startup, then the fan clutch was engaged when it shouldn't have been unless the underhood temperature was really high.

Let me know how things turn out for you. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
May 16, 2021 at 6:57 PM
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CSOSA123456
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the mystery saga continues. had some overcooling today after heavy city driving even with the new fan clutch.

something is causing the thermostat to stay open for too long but i literally have no idea what it could be. should i power flush the whole cooling system?
May 26, 2021 at 10:17 AM
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CSOSA123456
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Joe, do you have any diagram of the cooling system flow? from the radiator to the t-stat to the block; there is also the coolant bypass system which lets coolant flow from the expansion bottle and heater core to the t-stat etc.

just trying to figure out if it’s a thermostat problem or something else that’s letting too much coolant into the block.
May 26, 2021 at 12:33 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I'm sorry but that isn't something that is posted in the manuals. Tell me. When you were in traffic, how hot did it get? Then, when you started driving again, how cold did it get?

It honestly sounds like the thermostat is sticking open. Are you certain (and I don't like asking this) the thermostat is turned in the correct direction?

Let me know.

Joe
May 26, 2021 at 6:01 PM
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CSOSA123456
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went for another long drive today and the truck finally overheated. the expansion tank was completely full and overflowing with coolant. i let the truck cool down, refilled the expansion tank, burped the lines, and it didn’t do it again for the rest of the drive but it did stay below the middle of the gauge the entire time. i’m truly and completely stumped.

the thermostat i purchased came as a unit with the thermostat housing, so i just swapped it and followed the procedure to bleed the system.

i don’t think there’s any exhaust gases bleeding into the cooling system, but i could be wrong. the oil isn’t muddy and i don’t have any misfire issues or white smoke coming out of the tailpipe while starting the car.

i don’t know what else to do at this point besides completely brain the cooling system and flush it.
May 27, 2021 at 5:54 PM
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CSOSA123456
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this is what the temperature gauge read and what my scanned read:
May 27, 2021 at 5:55 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The temperature your scanner show is actually fine. The thermostat is designed to fully open at 195°F. You averaged 196°. At highway speeds, 188° is fine as well.

It is possible that you are getting compressed air/exhaust gasses into the cooling system. Are there any bubbles in the coolant? Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Let me know. You could also do a compression test to see if any cylinders are somewhat lower than the others.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me know.

Joe
May 27, 2021 at 8:16 PM
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CSOSA123456
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I will be in GA for about a week so I will check for bubbles in the overflow tank with the truck running and the cap off and might also rent a set of cooling system pressure test equipment from autozone when i get back.

I did a compression test not too long ago and got 205 PSI in cylinders 1 and 2, and and 210 in cylinders 3 and 4. these were taken with the truck completely cold and throttle fully open. i also stuck a borescope in the cylinders to check for coolant and didn’t see anything reliably well. no misfires or hard starting or puffs of white smoke from the tailpipe or anything!
May 27, 2021 at 8:24 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Okay. I hope you have a safe trip home. Let me know what is found or if I can help.

Take care,

Joe
May 27, 2021 at 8:37 PM
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CSOSA123456
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unfortunately, it seems like there’s some combustion gas leakage into the cooling system. will have to pull the head and see what it is. hopefully it’s the gasket or head and not the block.

thanks Joe, for the help.
Jun 6, 2021 at 9:56 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Since there is nothing in the oil and you have good compression, it is likely the gasket has a slight leak. If it is minimal, I'm confused about it running too cool. I'm not saying crazier things have happened, but it's just odd.

I attached the directions for head gasket replacement below for you. I don't know if you need it, but the torque spec and sequence are included.

Let me know if I can help in any way and what you find. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
Jun 6, 2021 at 7:12 PM
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CSOSA123456
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a buddy of mine had an extra bottle of Blue Devil pour-n-go, and since i got it for free i thought... “what the heck, why not?”

if it works, it beats having to disassemble the entire top end of the motor to remove the head and replace the head gasket.

i retested the cooling system with the leak tester and my first test showed no leak. will do a second test later today to see if the leak is present or i just got a false negative.

will also see how long this lasts. i doubt it will be more than a year, but i think the leak was probably relatively small; the last two times the truck overheated i was driving at highway speeds for about an hour.
Jun 8, 2021 at 10:36 AM
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CSOSA123456
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below is the tester after 10 minutes with the truck running.
Jun 8, 2021 at 10:51 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Sounds good. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe
Jun 8, 2021 at 8:19 PM
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CSOSA123456
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for reference, this is generally also applicable to a Mazda 3, but obviously there will be differing steps in places.

did the head gasket job over the weekend. overall not terribly difficult, but definitely not the most fun. in order to remove the head, basically the entire top end needs to be disassembled. best way to approach this is:

1. drain the block and radiator, remove both the upper and lower radiator hoses.
2. remove the air intake boot and air intake. in order to do this, remove the drive belt and remove the power steering pump. just set it aside, not need to disconnect it from the rack.
3. disconnect all connectors and unplug the PCM connector, then set wiring harness aside
4. remove A/C compressor (same as power steering pump, don't disconnect, just set aside), alternator, and the accessory mounting bracket.
5. remove the valve cover.

before you do anything else:

there is a very specific sequence to follow for this engine because the crankshaft timing chain sprocket is not keyed, which is literally mind blowing. one of the most asinine engine designs of all time. you need to either purchase or rent a Ford/Mazda timing tool set from AutoZone. first, set the engine to TDC at cylinder 1. there is a small 10mm bolt at the bottom left hand side of the engine, near the CKP sensor; remove that and fully insert a timing peg, then turn the engine clockwise until the crankshaft counterweight hits it. the engine is now at TDC. i recommend to use the thickest peg in the set (there are 3). you can be certain it's a TDC by: putting a long screwdriver in the spark plug hold in cylinder 1 and rotating the engine, and by checking that the notches on the back of the camshafts are aligned. the lobes on the camshafts will also be pointing down and outwards at cylinder 1.

6. now that the engine is a TDC, remove the crankshaft pulley. the last photo is the tool i used to hold the pulley in place to prevent the engine from rotating. you can purchase one from eBay for $25. the inserts that come with the tool are too big to insert into the pulley holes, so you will need to purchase some bolts that will fit. NB: i recommended using the thickest timing peg above in case the sprocket holder slips and the timing pegs momentarily stops the engine from rotating.

7. remove the CKP sensor, then the front engine cover.
8. take a picture of the position of the camshafts for reference.
9. remove the timing chain tensioner and the timing chain.
10. remove the camshafts.
11. remove the exhaust manifold. in order to do this you will need to remove upper O2 sensor.
11. remove the head. make sure to loosen the head bolts in sequence from the middle ones outwards. there are 10. do them in pairs. you will need a T55 or T60 bit.

follow these steps in reverse to reassemble.

Jul 6, 2021 at 7:59 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Thank you for your post. I'm confident it will help others.

Take care,

Joe
Jul 6, 2021 at 10:18 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Hi Joe,

Decided to pull the engine and I’m now working on a full engine rebuild. the service manual i’m using doesn’t have anything regarding removing the main bearing caps and pistons.

would it be possible to post the steps/torque specs for the connecting rods and main bearing caps?

also, are the main bolts and connecting rod cap hardware TTY or are they reusable?
Jul 13, 2021 at 7:04 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Interestingly, both of my manuals are missing the same info. Here is something that will help you with replacing the crank bearings:

https://youtu.be/ubgZ13Br9Pw

The next one shows how to install piston rings and then install connecting rod bearings.

https://youtu.be/KbRdfZlCfiU

The engine size is different, but the procedures are the same. Note: When you remove the end caps from the connecting rods, remember what direction they face and mark them for the specific cylinder they came from. Keep them in order. You want the same connecting rod pared with the same end cap in the same cylinder order.

If I find the torque specs, I will get them to you.

I found some info.

Crankshaft is done is a series working from the center out
A- 1st time 10ft/lbs
B- 2nd tine 32 ft/lbs
C- 3rd time tighten the bolts 90 degrees
D- 4th time an additional 90 degrees in a cross pattern

Connecting rods

A- 21Ft/lbs
B- tighten an additional 90 degrees.



Joe
Jul 13, 2021 at 8:27 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Thanks a bunch for the info, Joe. I was able to dissemble the the motor today and will be sending the block and head to a machine shop to have the cylinder mating surfaces decked.

I still can't find any information regarding reusing the main and con rod bolts. I also can't find them available for sale anywhere. I've tried PartsGeek, eBay, and a few other auto parts suppliers.

Might have to call the Ford dealership, but I doubt that will help.
Jul 14, 2021 at 2:38 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I'm sorry if I didn't add that. Yes, they can be reused. Just make sure there is no evidence of damage to the threads. They will be fine to reuse.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,

Joe
Jul 14, 2021 at 7:34 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Thanks, Joe!!! Will come back around if anything else comes up. I managed to find a bootlegged version of the Mazda FSM and there is a section for bolt inspection. Attached for reference in case anyone needs the information.
Jul 15, 2021 at 7:03 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Thanks for that info. I know it will help others. Stay in touch and let me know how things are going or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe
Jul 15, 2021 at 8:59 PM
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CSOSA123456
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the saga with this car continues. I had the engine out of the car and sent the block and the head to a machine shop.

they resurfaced both the head and the block.
I installed a new head gasket.

after all of that, the car still has a combustion leak in the cooling system. from my inspection of the cylinder block, it seems unlikely that the cylinder sleeves are cracked because there is no coolant in the oil, and they look fine to my eye.

in this case, should I suspect that the head is defective? EGR valve maybe? or should I scrap the entire engine and set it on fire?
Oct 16, 2021 at 3:13 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Don't set it on fire. However, I understand your frustrations. When it was apart, were both the cylinder head and block checked for cracks using Magnaflux or a penetrating dye? Have you rechecked the engine compression?

Let me know.

Joe
Oct 16, 2021 at 9:10 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Unfortunately, now I’m not really sure if the machine shop actually tested the head or cylinder block for cracks.

The compression is about 190, 185, 185, 195, respectively. I suppose that at worst I can remove the head from the truck and send it to another machine shop so they can see if it’s cracked, which is probably my only real alternative at this point. i’m not particularly keen on pulling the entire engine out again.
Oct 16, 2021 at 10:16 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

You can check the engine without removing it. The head will need to come off. I'm sure that isn't something you want to do at this point. However, they make dye kits. Take a look at this Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Dye-Penetrant-Crack-Finder-Kit/dp/B00XLW4BRC

Joe
Oct 16, 2021 at 11:40 PM
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CSOSA123456
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Before spending more money, I wanted to make sure that there actually was a combustion gas leak in the cooling system. The reason why I thought there may be one is because after all of the hullabaloo I've been through, the truck is still overcooling after driving for a while, especially when driving on the highway.

I've tested the cooling system with the blue block tester fluid, and it will not change color. I've tested it as soon as the car starts to overcool, after driving it around town, and when dead cold, and it won't turn yellow. Also, the intermittent misfire I'd get on startup is gone, which was probably happening because of coolant leaking into one or more of the cylinders. And less importantly, but still relevant, I cannot smell any exhaust in the coolant overflow bottle. It seems that there isn't an exhaust leak.

I'm suspecting the thermostat, since there really isn't much else to suspect. It's a MAP-controlled thermostat, since it has a connector and a wire running to it. I've heard non-OEM map-controlled thermostats are kind of trash. Any words of wisdom for me? :)
Oct 27, 2021 at 6:46 PM