stalls out while driving

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? Problems at higher rpms, check for blockage of some kind, like fuel and exhaust. Could be other issues?

Haven't had a tune up and haven't checked codes.

Yep, it sounds like a misfire. here are two guides to help us get the problem fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Don't forget the service the throttle bore and clear the codes once the service is complete.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Checked codes and found the problem. Throttle position sensor. Thanks for the help.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

My 2000 Dodge Intrepid has trouble starting. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it will click when I turn the key, and it takes turning the key up to 5 times before it will start. Besides this, twice now the car has completely lost power while driving, but then started back up again on its own. What do you think could be wrong with it?

While driving today, the engine light came on for the first time.

P.S. my egine is a 2.7 liter

i have the same exact car engine and all and i would highly advise you to take the car to a certified mechanic to have it checked out. because i did not take mine to a mechanic and now my car will not start at all and also the 2.7 engine is horrible if at all possible try to upgrade it to a 3.2 engine to save yourself from future engine problems.

I have two problems on my Dodge Intrepid.

No error codes show, but engine will stumble and die, sometimes daily sometimes not for weeks.
It seems to idle low also under 500 RPM. Driving along and tach will cut out, cruise control light will come on on dash ( not on cruise control )and the engine cuts out, no backfire or misfire just switches off. Most times if I pump the throttle the engine will refire while still rolling.

One or twice it has cut out, will not then restart if cruise light still on, switch off and on ignition several times if cruise light not on it will start and run fine again.
When this happens I do not lose any other electrical, radio, door locks etc all fine.

Other issue ( may be related ) several times I switch on the ignition and no lights, no battery power, open hood and everything comes on. Clock resets so loses battery power ( New batery installed )

Can anyone help, no error codes on Computer to help.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm, radio, or remote starter?

Only add on was 10 disc cd player fitted at purchase.

On the first problem ( cutting out ) radio lights all stay on only thing I see is tach dies ( along with engine ) and cruise light comes on.

Not sure if the loss of power is part of same problem ( electrical power ) only done this a few times, no lights no ignition, mentioned in case connected.

First problems seems like lost ignition but no error codes. Would that be normal. Mentioned cruise light as this always comes on when ignition cuts out.

Cruise light and ignition cut out could be the clockspring or sliding contact. This conveys the electrical input from steering wheel cruise buttons. Look for any wires rubbing on the column, or at the bottom by the round disc(Steering position sensor) if it has one. It is definitely electrical, and it is in the column or clockspring.

I have a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 liter which has 129,000 on the engine.When I drive the car during the warm months the car will just die for no reason at all. When it dies no lights indicate any sign of anything wrong,the engine light doesn't even come on. I have to wait twenty minutes or longer then the car will start up and run fine.
I've had the car to the dealer and when it is put on the computer no codes come up. The dealer has even put a diagnostic reader on it but it happens so intermitantly that you never know when it will happen. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.

[quote:cb4cc12197="stridder1"]I have a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 liter which has 129,000 on the engine.When I drive the car during the warm months the car will just die for no reason at all. When it dies no lights indicate any sign of anything wrong,the engine light doesn't even come on. I have to wait twenty minutes or longer then the car will start up and run fine.
I've had the car to the dealer and when it is put on the computer no codes come up. The dealer has even put a diagnostic reader on it but it happens so intermitantly that you never know when it will happen. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.[/quote:cb4cc12197]
To answer my own question,it appears to have been the Crank Positioning Sensor that was causing the problem. I have replaced it and since I did the car is running just fine now.I've even tried it out on a long road trip and nothing happened.

it wouldnt restart

Go to this link for additional information:https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

2000 Dodge Intrepid 108000 miles

Hello,
I just took my car to an auto shop because even thought I have been dealing with it stalling at red lights or low speeds, just recently it stalled on me while getting on the freeway and scared me to death!!
Anyways, they tell me that they are going to replace the cam, crank, and oxygen censors as well as replace the battery (which is a very needed).
So, do you think this will solve the problem, because from what I've read online, it's only a temporary fix. I would appreciate your expert opinion on this.
Thanks:)

Was the check engine light on when you were having trouble? It is hard to believe that all of the parts mentioned are bad at the same time and the car ran at all.

Let me know.
Joe

thanks for getting back:)
The engine light was not on, but I have a feeling that the mechanics at the dealer somehow shut that light off because I took it back to them a week after getting the car to tell them that the engine light was on (dirty folks, shop is closed now) because the place I just took it to said that if the light wasn't on, they wouldn't have been able to hook it up to the scope.
So it wasn't lit up, but they seem to think that wasn't because something wasn't wrong, just that it was tampered with.
Since getting it fixed last week, no stalling has happened thank GOD!!!

I'm glad you got it fixed. What was actually the problem?

The car stalls when slowing down. We have replaced the IAC motor, disconnected the battery and reconnected it. The check engine light sometimes comes on, but not consistently.

Have you had the computer scanned?

No, we have not had the computer scanned.

If the light was on, there will be a trouble code stored in the computer. It will identify where the problem is coming from. Most nationally recognized parts stores will scann the computer for free. Therefore, I recommend having that done to identify where the problem is coming from.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

2000 dodge intrepid is stalling after reaching 60 mph and then taking foot off accelerator the oil light comes on, power steering freezes and engine dies! It easily restarts in neutral, but continues to do this. It never happened until I got a new battery. could this be the problem? The mechanics all say NO and are checking sensors, fuel line filers, etc. I can't help but think that it has something to do with the battery. it never happened until the first time I drove it after the new battery was installed. I've read online and several people with the exact same problem I'm having said it was the EGR Valve.

not at 60 mph. erg is not your issue. when the battery was replaced, all the memory from the pcm was erased. the learning process is about 50 miles but it souinds like you have gone that.
i would remove a battery cable again, wait 10 seconds and re attach it and road test before talking about a pcm.
the mechanic did nothing wrong.

Roy

The Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

As for the steering "freezing", many people believe, incorrectly, that this happens when the engine stalls so they don't even try to steer the car. They just "give up" and crash. You are not losing your steering. It is just very hard to steer with no power steering assist. You can still turn the steering wheel but the slower the car goes the harder that becomes to do.

Stalls as I come to a stop coming off the highway.
Could the TCC not be releasing and could I unplug it?

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner first it may be the cause, then if it continues scan for codes. I am assuming check engine light is not on if it is then scan for codes.

Does it still stall if you shift the transmission into neutral when you come to a stop? If no then it could be the TCC, the easy test is to unplug it and see if it stops the stalling.
If it still stalls then the throttle body and IAC cleaning HMAC suggests would be a good start.

my 2000 intrepid stalls intermitenly but will start again within 15 minutes, it doesn't show any trouble codes and the engine light isn't on. i had the same type of problem earlier this year but the engine light was on and it showed trouble code for bad cam
position sensor, i changed it and haven't had any problems until now.
please help

Scan the computer and see if it pops a code/s or do below

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind or wait 15mins-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

While driving my car, it shuts off. There are no warning signs. Initially Pepboys because it was close by and they said it was the battery..I paid $195 for that and oil change, etc. A week later it cut off again. I took it Dodge and they were unable to duplicate the problem. There is no check engine light. I took my brother's mechanic. He has replace the radiator fans, alternator and hoses..which was a total of approx. 1, 200. Just yesterday it stopped while traveling on 295 N. No one is able to assist me yet, I am spending more money for an ongoing problem. Now I am without a car. The mechanic says the problem could be crankshaft or cam sensor which will be $180. HELP!!!

Actually, the crank sensor sounds more logical than any of the other items replaced. When the engine dies, does it start right back up for you?

Yes it starts back up within a few minutes.

It does sound like a crank sensor. Has the check engine light come on? During the few minutes it doesn't restart, have you ever checked to see if the engine is getting spark?

The past 2 to 3 months, when I'm driving the car, it will just go dead and I coast to the side of the road and wait anywheres from 5 to 15 minutes for it to start agian to get to my destination. You never know when it's going to happen and it has done it at least a half dozen times or so. It just recently did it when I was on the highway going at a speed of between 55 to 60 MPH. It has also happened on local streets also. Just recently, about 3 weeks ago, You can now here an additional reving sound, it seems to be on the passenger side and gets louder as you accelerate only. It kind of sounds like a plane taking off almost(but not that loud). When you come to a stop it'll go away but then start right up again once you accelerate and it doesn't matter of the speed. What could it possibly be that I need to get checked and that a mechanic won't have to do a bunch of repairs to figure it out. Thanks for the help if possible!

you need new crank sensor
good luck

I was told by a few other mechanics that if it was the crank sensor, that the car wouldn't start back up. They said the car wouldn't start back up if it was a bad crank sensor. They seem to think that the fuel is being cut off and therefore may be the fuel pump or to flush the fuel system. What do you say to that?

crank sensor cheep enough may i suggest replacing it
you can check fuel pressure and for spark when no start happens

Car starts cold perfectly and runs fine for a very short time 10-12 seconds and then as if a switch has been flipped it falls on it's face. Will not accelerate unless by small degrees, sometimes backfires alot through the intake, smokes heavy, a white blue smoke as if flooding. Cannot get it to send a code. Anyone had a similar experience???