Slow coolant leak in oil

Thank you. Not sure about today.

What about bleed off lbs in cylinder, wont have to lay in mud for that one. What's the procedure? Pump air in wait for how long?how much air?

Okay, first, do the pressure test from the radiator cap for the system. With the pan down, see if there is any coolant coming from inside the engine.

As far as the leak down, it is done one cylinder at a time and you are watching for coolant movement at the radiator.

Roy

Thank you, did i mention rain, mud. Lol

Have a good day.

Doing pressure test with oil pan off, lost 1 pound in 35 minutes, saw a few drips. 15 to 14. Going to do it again, the drips were from all other. Very slow, 1 per minute maybe.

4 drops in 11 minutes. 2 sround 1 2 around 7, strangely i just seen three slow 1 second streams from oil pump screen. 1 second steam, stop 4 a few seconds and do it 2 more times. Gauge reading 14.5 lbs.

Okay, then you have an internal leak in the motor itself.

You need a bright LED light and look up inside the motor and see where the source of the leak is located.

It could be a head gasket, intake manifold or a cracked block.

Roy

40 minute, 14.5 lbs, wiped oil off bottom of pistons i could, 5,7 and a couple others. Stayed dry, i think the oil is coming from up above, dripping off cam. 1 place in back, 1 place in front. I'm wiped out, will it hurt if i leave oil pan off tonight? That oil pan is after 4 hours or so of idling.

Just thought of something, there's a little pitting around coolant jacket in manifold, don't know if it matters thought i should mention it.

All i could see was oil dripping off cam, will look again tomorrow. if its dripping off cam what would that mean? I'm pretty sure it's up there, each leak below was coming from above. Except the fuel pump. Only ran out those three times. What does that mean ? Oh, that's where that water jacket with the pits is.

Should i be able yo determine or see the leak is coming from the jacket?

Oil dripping off the cam is normal. As it is lubricated, it should drip and that oil goes back to the pan.

Yes, the corrosion could be the issue. If it is on the block, you most likely need a motor.

Roy

Couldn't just change manifold ? If the leaks coming from there.

The pitting is on the manifold, the block was inspected 2,000 miles ago in early December by a machine shop. i I guess he could have missed something, new heads, bored 30 over, new pistons rings, liters, spring's.

I was just wondering what would make me need a new engine? obviously i am not a mechanic.

One last thing, by tomorrow shouldn't all the oil be done dripping? I can look to make sure than pressurize the radiator and see what happens. And look up there to see if i can determine where its coming from. Like i said block was inspected, new heads, 2,000 miles ago.

If the block is corroded, it would indicate block damage. That would indicate needing a block replacement.

As I stated, if the manifold is the issue, then the manifold may or night be repairable. If not, you need a manifold.

did anyone ever check the voltage in the coolant? Electrolysis will destroy a block if there is too much voltage in the coolant. The voltage comes from bad grounds.

Roy

No and I have never heard that. i adjusted voltage on fuel sync from .05v to 5v. where do i check coolant voltage?

And as i said, the block was inspected and cleaned 2,000 miles ago. Do you not have confidence in this process or do you know something your not telling me?

You put your voltmeter in the coolant. Red lead in the coolant and black to ground. anything over .2 volts is too much.

This is a common voltage drop test on any electrical system. It has been done for years.

I am telling you everything I have in my experience through the past 50 years.

Roy

Oh, i can tell you know a lot. Was curious about you're confidence in cleaned and inspected blocks. That's interesting testing coolant voltage. One thing, the temperature gauge reads 230 or so, used to read just over 200, actual was 199 on scanner. The change came right after rebuild. Change everything. All sensor's

I understand.

The block can be stoned off to make sure it is straight and no warping.

I used to have a machine shop come to me and stone the block at my location.

It would all depend on the guy working on it. Machinists are hard to find, especially good ones.

Roy

Yeah, you're right about that. I got to get some sleep. Thank you so much for your direction, i'm hoping its the manifold but the way my life has been going, who knows. Bye

I was pretty wiped out last night when we chatted. i am pretty sure there is pitting in the block around the water jackets or whatever there called, not the manifold, are those fixable and why wouldn't the machinist or mechanic have seen those? not pretty sure, i know that's where the pitting is!

I was pretty wiped out last night when we chatted, im pretty sure theres pitting in the block around the water jackets or whatever there called, not the manifold, are those fixable and why wouldnt the machinest or
mechanic have seen those, not pretty sure, i know thats where the pitting is !!!

Only 2,000 miles on rebuild.

It is hard to say why they did not see it or attend to it. Only they can answer that one.

As far as fixing it, it will depend on how deep the pits are and if they can plane or stone the block to get rid of the pits.

You will not know the extent of the damage until the heads are removed and examined. Check the intake as well for any deep pitting.

Roy

Thank you, i'm going to do as you said, but i know it's coming from both ends. Will try to positively identity it today, will rtc work or leak fix work. ; ) i am really tired, really disappointed in my cousin, will let you know what i see. again, thank you.

Or JB weld ; )

No, it will not work. The surface has to be free of all pits.

JB weld and RTV break down and you will be back in the same boat.

Roy

Yeah, i kinda knew that, so most likely. New engine ? Going to get started, had to take mom to run errands.

That is what it is coming down to.

Since you have new heads, I would consider getting a short block and using your heads. That would lessen the cost.

Roy

Thanks Roy, i have a mechanic i spoke with awhile back that said he would work on it but only accepts engines. I have never pulled one but i'm confident in doing so along with taking transmission to another shop. Engine guy builds 1000hp race cars. I'm sure he could do that. Only problem is i'm working outside which is nice, i'm working alone and was told an engine lift could only be used inside on concrete. will i have to buy lift or can i rent one or do you know?

Just take it to him and let him do whatever he has got to do.

Hi, for some reason i couldn't find latest message about pulling motor taking engine to a mechanic. I'm amazed i got this far. I have a condition that shuts my brain down and it's all over. Anyway last you told me the voltage in coolant should be no more than .2 v.

Was over 120mv in tank.

Hi, for some reason I couldn't find latest message about pulling motor taking engine to a mechanic. I'm amazed I got this far. I have a condition that shuts my brain down and it's all over. Anyway last you told me the voltage in coolant should be no more than.2 v.

How can this be be so high? Its mv does that matter?

That is a good reading.

I have pulled many engines outside and I rolled the crane around on a 4 X * sheet of plywood.

A lift would be nice but can be done without a lift.

Roy