Slow acceleration, trouble on inclines

Hello, I'm Danny.

The first thing I would suggest you do is to actually perform a fuel pressure test.Just because you hear the pump running doesn't mean it's performing at its peak.You might have a weak or failing pump not working at its optimum.If you don't have a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved on how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The fuel pressure for your Accent should be at 49.8 PSI. Hope this helps and let me know what you find after performing this test and we'll go from there.Thanks for using 2CarPros.

So i got the fuel tester but there are two ports one labeled L and other H on the left side of engine. Is there another port or which one of those do i use?

I thought I'd send you all the codes the ob2 is giving me. It not a fancy one, but hope it helps.

I did a little research. Is this how i need to check the fuel pressure for my Hyundai as shown in the pictures by using an adapter for the fuel tester i rented?

Let me know if i got this right please: Basically remove backseat to get to the fuel pump to remove the fuel feed line on it and connect it to the adapter for the fuel pressure gauge tester, and the other part of the adapter to the fuel pump itself?

Here is a picture of the fuel kit i got from O'Reilly's for a $150.00 refunded deposit:

No clue which tube to disconnect and connect to the pressure tester. Please help.

I noticed my fuel rail for the injectors has a bolt type thingy on one end, the left side. I marked it with an arrow. Is that where I hook up the fuel pressure tester? Let me know please soon today.

I am trying to test the fuel pressure as suggested in a previous question i asked. But i haven't got a response and need to know ASAP please. But where do i hook up a fuel pressure tester on my car? I cant locate a valve to attache it to. I have attached a few pictures. Do i hook it up on the left side of the fuel rail that the injectors connect to, i put a red arrow to point it out. Or do i attach it to the fuel pump and the fuel pressure line and if so which fuel line in the picture do i connect it to because theirs two lines going out from the pump.

The fuel tester will go inline with the fuel rail connector, can you try to find that? Also to me it sounds like the exhaust is still plugged, what happens is the catalytic converter material clogs up the muffler. Remove the head pipe and drive it to see if is helps and clear the codes. these guides should help us:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hello again.

You should have a Schrader valve located on the fuel rail.It will look like a valve on a bicycle tire tube.If you depress the needle a small amount of gas will come out.That is what the fuel pressure tester will hook to.No need to disconnect the fuel lines just yet. I've attached a picture below of the fuel rail connection below.The tutorial I posted on how to test is still located above in my prior post.The fuel pressure specification for your Accent is 49.8 PSI. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

There is no Schrader valve.

Actually never mind. I believe i found out how to hook up the fuel pressure tester. On the right side of the fuel rail (In the picture i marked it with a arrow) i would hook up the attachment shown in picture. But I'll try what Ken said first.

Hello again.

Okay, that looks like the correct adapt to hook up the tester.Keep us updated after you perform the fuel pressure and catalytic converter test.Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

Good morning,

I would also get a back pressure gauge for the exhaust to test the back pressure. If you catalytic converter was blocked, there still may be more in the catalytic converter or further down the line in the exhaust.

You can get the tool at a parts store. You place it in the upstream O2 sensor hole and run the engine at 1,200 RPM's. The back pressure should not exceed more than 1.5 pounds.

Another way of testing would be to drop the front exhaust pipe and drive the car with the pipe disconnected and see if the engine has power again.

Let me know the results.

Roy

Is that the upstream o2 oxygen sensor I marked in the picture with an arrow that i connect the pressure tester to?

Also, i did take off the exhaust manifold entirely to make sure it wasn't clogged because the catalytic converter was stuffed, i couldn't believe how 100% full/clogged it was. Another note m, when i changed the spark plugs the 4th one was pretty dirty with sludge.

Hello again.

Having the catalytic converter plugged like that would definitely cause a sluggishness or hesitation issue. Glad you were able to find the issue.Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

In the last message regarding the catalytic converter n manifold. That is something i did awhile ago. When the problem 1st happened. Still having issues and that's what brought me to you guys. Doing the fuel pressure test and the back pressure test today. Let you know the results.

Hello again.

Okay, keep us updated. I'm curious to know the results of the tests and we'll go from there.Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

I finally got the fuel pressure test. I ended up having to buy 2 feet of rubber fuel pressure hose because that adapter i need isn't at any auto store or kit unfortunately. $84.99 to order online from a specialty store.

Results: I turn the key over a few times to build pressure but not starting it. It does go to 50psi and slowly decrease. However, when i start it it'll build pressure to 50psi and stay their. Eveb when I press on the gas while parked/idling the psi stays constantly at 50psi. Even when i shift into every other gear it stays at 50psi and doesn't move at all. And shouldn't it drop 5psi once i shift into reverse and press on the accelerator? Oh and when i turn car off and remove key the psi slowly decreases.


Furthermore, I attached pictures marked with 2 red arrows of a possible fuel leak. The fuel pressure line( Not sure what that piece is but I know it the fuel line) you see is wet and it runs directly into the right end of the fuel injector rail and above it you can see more signs of a wet surface also marked with red arrow.


Lastly, I have one off subject question. I noticed a wire of some type i marked with a red arrow in the 3rd last picture( Seems hollow honestly) bent pretty bad and was wondering if that would cause any issues or future issues? Not sure what it even does.



Thanks guys for all your help so far. Much appreciated!


Oh and i rented a compression tester you put into the holding of the spark plug. A friend suggested testing it so i just went ahead and grab the loaner from o Reilly's. So I'll let you know results of that. If could supply any instructions on how to do the test etc for my car that would be awesome!

Okay, 49 is the spec. You are good.

It will not drop running. That is okay.

It should or may drop about 5 pounds after it is turned off.

You are good with the pressure.

We are back to the exhaust. Did you drop the head pipe and run the engine?

Also, the compression test will tell you if you have a valve timing issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Roy

Drop the head pipe? Where exactly is that?

And regarding the fuel tests, I think the performance of the fuel pump isn't good. What do you guys think? It said in the instructions that when i start the engine it should decrease 5psi and when i put it into reverse and accelerate or drive it the psi should increase 5psi but nothing happens, it stays constantly at 50psi as it did when engine was off and key on. And it said if no change than to check the regulator vacuum feed line( Which i think is the fuel line going into the right side of the fuel rail which is also the part that is wet that i showed you in the last pictures) for leaks and if all good. Than it's my fuel pressure regulator if equipped.




Excerpt from instructions provided in 2nd reply:

"Now start the engine so we can test the performance of the pump. While the engine is running, the fuel pressure should drop about 5 psi, from the static prime pressure (DPI) then snap the throttle, the fuel system pressure should jump up about 5 psi. this means the fuel pump and pressure regulator is working correctly. If the system fuel pressure does not respond inspect the regulator vacuum feed line and if okay the fuel pressure regulator has failed (if equipped)."

The fuel system is working fine. Your pressure is on the button.

There are no concerns for the system pressure at all. You are holding pressure and not low or bleeding off.

As far as the engine, unbolt the converter from the head and start it up. If there is a clogged exhaust it will breathe through the exhaust leak.

Roy

Also, i can't find a exhaust back pressure tester at any local auto store to loan out or even buy unfortunately. So looking into finding a shop to do it or you guys have any ideas? If i still need to do that test.

I posted it in last reply.

Roy

Hello again.

I'm not sure if your catalytic converter is a one-piece design combined with the exhaust manifold. I've attached a picture below and circled in red where it might unbolt and separate. After removing the 3 bolts remove the heat shield. If the catalytic converter unbolts from the exhaust manifold then just unbolt from there.If not you can remove the whole manifold and converter assembly.Like we've stated earlier if the unit is blocked and plugged up once unbolted and you start the engine it will run better and stay running.Hope this helps.Let us know if you have any further questions about this and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

I was just about to ask you that. But no their is also a bank 2 catalytic converter that sits between the thing you circled in the picture, and the muffler. The 2nd converter is about half way down the exhaust, about where the drivers seat is. That's the one that was clogged entirely. I'm removing the 3 bolts from the catalytic converter manifold you circled right now.

Hello again.

Okay, Keep us updated. If you can take a picture with your cell phone and upload it here. It will be obvious though if it is removable or 1 piece with the manifold after removing the heat shield.Hope this helps.

Danny-

So i need to get a o2 sensor removal tool because i can't get the heat shield off to get to the manifold. So going to be tomorrow morning until i can get to Auto store. But i attached a picture of exactly what mine looks like. Because i have taken it off to check if it's clogged etc and it wasn't. I've heard it's called bank 1 catalytic converter manifold and the other catalytic converter half way down the exhaust is bank 2 which was the clogged one.

Hello again.

Just an FYI; I've attached the same picture below.Where I've circled in red is the o2 connector to the wiring harness.Use fingers to depress tab and disconnect.You can then pull the heat shield off by pushing the harness through the hole.You don't have to remove the o2 sensor.Hope this helps.

Danny-

Good information. What concerns me is that some of the stuff you cleaned out from the one converter may have traveled down the system and lodged in the muffler. That will cause a restriction and low power.

By opening up the fron for it to breathe, it will eliminate that possibility.

Roy

Well, in the picture where i circled in blue around the 02, it gets caught on the red part of the 02. i circled since it a solid piece sticking out because i can't just simply lift it due to the fact the left side of the heat shield. i marked in blue has parts in the way stopping it from just lifting straight up. No worries, I'll get it done. Just thought id share their information.

Hello again.

I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out.I have faith in you brother.Let us know if you need any further instruction.Keep us updated with your progress and test results.
Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

Hey guys, so as I was doing the cylinder pressure test, I decided to test the coils too. They never been replaced to my knowledge. Also, can't find a back exhaust pressure tester but a buddy's cousin might so waiting to hear back. Also, I have not unbolted the exhaust manifold yet because need to get a tool to remove the 02 sensor to remove heat shield.. so anyways, upon check the spark plug/ignition coils with a multi-meter. I get no reading. I'm supposed to get .7 I think. But when I go to test it, it'll show some numbers for a half a second and then it goes to zero. So I think I have bad coils. Attached a screenshot of what my coil looks like etc.

So the spark plug marked one I took out of the far left cylinder. If notice 3 and 4 have oil and 1 is burnt dry. Also the ends of the coils the spark plug go into have a white residue. Multi-meter tests tell me the coils are bad.

Thoughts?

Hello again.

The white residue on the ignition coils is normal.It was hard to tell from your video how much oil was in the spark plug tubes due to the video being cut off at the bottom and didn't show.It's kind of hard to believe that all 4 coils would fail at the same time. I've attached the testing procedure and specifications below.Let me know if the coils are within the specifications and we'll go from there.Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

Okay, the oil is from the seals for the tube from the valve cover gasket.

What check told you the coils were bad? What were your readings that make you think the coils are bad?

Roy

I haven't got around to doing the exhaust manifold disconnecting for exhaust text, nor have re-tested the coils with a multi-meter.
Going to tomorrow.

Quick random question. Am I able to take my car to a shop and have them diagnose it for me and I'll do the repairs etc? If so which shop should I go to?

Sure you can. You will have to pay for a diagnostic from the shop.

They will charge you anywhere from $150.00 to $200.00 for a complete diagnostic.

There is no requirement for them to do the repairs at all. You can just have the diagnostic performed and do the repairs yourself.

Roy

I cam across the spark plug I originally pulled out when car started having problems and had to clear out the catalytic converter, but that didn't entirely fix the problem so I went and replaced the spark plugs. I got the car from my cousin and it's never had a tune up. But thought I'd share how bad it was when I pulled this one out of the cylinder all the way to the right.

They are really bad. Good that you replaced them.

Roy