Crank will not start

Yes it's got 202,000 miles but still runs like a champ. Think it is time to junk it but will give it one more shot. Drove to church just fine got out of church won't start. It cranks but start. Turn the key on all lights on dash flicker then stay on. No chime, radio or gauges when key is on. I don't hear the fuel pump. All fuses ok and swapped relays. Got spark on number 1. And new battery, plus hooked up to wife's car to be sure of that. I'm thinking the computer is shot. Any other ideas of what this could be? If it is the ecm, if I get a junk yard one, is it just a swap out or would it still need to be reprogrammed?

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Just to add to this one It sounds like you could open terminal on your 68 way connector to your inside fuse box.It would be the connector closest to the front of your car on the back side of inside fuse box.Its on the drivers side just in front of your center console.Its a big red wire it feeds power to fuel pump transmission actuators alot different things.Over time all the heat running thru the connector bends the terminal end open . causing a loose connection the first one i saw puzzled me at first.But now when I see anything that sounds like it i check that terminal its number like terminal F5 on the back of the connector i believe . sometimes the connector gets so hot it starts to melt even.Let me know what you find.Also sometimes unplugging and plugging and plugging in your chime module helps issues like that.Also check the chime module for corroded terminals i have seen that before.The chime module is in that same area as that connector.

I just recently replace my ignition cylinder. Now my key wont turn past Run. I can't start my car. Or make my lights work or radio. Could it be my ignition switch. but when I take out the cylinder, I can turn the ignition switch with a flat head and and I can get my radio to work lights etc but it wont start. What do I do now to get my car to start?

and you'll need to check the ignition switch on top of the column and may need to be adjusted.

how do i do that?

It won't start with a screwdriver on that car it needs the cylinder to turn to start it.Because it has a pass lock sensor in the ignition housing that needs to see the cylinder turning.Also the ignition switch isn't adjustable on that it just mounted in place with a couple of screws.So when you used the screwdriver does it turn to the start position?Also the cylinder won't turn to the start poison just lock acc an run?Does the cylinder turn to all the positions with the cylinder out of the housing?

Yes, when I used the screwdriver it will go to the start position. And yes the cylinder wont turn to start just in the lock, acc and run. When I take it out of the housing, I can turn the key. Also When I out the clyinder in and inserted my key I dont get nothing, not even my my lights on my dash.

So if you use a screw driver to turn the housing to turn the ignition switch do the dash lights etc come on?Also why did you change the cylinder?

Yes, when I put the screwdriver in the switch and turn it my dash lights and radio etc., come on. I had to replace it cause my ignition was stuck in lock and I try everything to get out of it.

So your turning the unmounted ignition that's not attached to the housing and the dash lights etc work?But when its mounted to the housing and you use a screw driver in place of the cylinder no lights etc?

recently bought vehicle and had valve job & headgasket replaced. did complete tune up and replaced coolant temp sensor & ignition module.
vehicle runs great , great mpg but after driving and shutting off it will not start until it sits for 20 mins. only thing i have noticed is that the
pcm unit (behind battery) gets real hot. I tried to pour water down the back side and as soon as you do that it starts right up. it will never cut out while driving though. do you think pcm???

I wouldnt be pouring water on the pcm like that before i say its the pcm we need to check some stuff.When it wont start you need to check for spark pop off two spark plug wires that are side by side off the coil and crank the engine to start it there should be a spark jumping from tower to tower.If thats good then you will check the fuel pressure when it doesnt start with a fuel pressure gauge.If thats good then you will check for a injector pulse while cranking the engine usuing a noid light.This will be the start of the diagnoses of whats going on with the car so we can narrow it down.

We have been having issues the past week with her car starting and staying on during idle. We took it to Tires Plus and they couldn't find anything wrong. Today, she left her lights on and after a good charge on her battery, the car won't start. There is not even a "click" to attempt to start. Her dash lights and head lights come on, but nothing tries to turn over when she starts the car. Any suggestions?

Sounds like u have two problems now let's start with the won't even turn over first make sure ur battery cables are clean and tight that ur battery is charged up do u have a volt meter to make sure ur battery is charged?also test all ur fuses u may have blown one make sure u have power on both sides of the fuse with a test light on all the fuse on the inside and outside fuse boxs.let me know what u find.

It was her battery. I was able to get it running in a matter of minutes with a good jump start. Thanks for the help!!

glad to here u got it all figured out did that also fix ur having trouble keeping it running while idling as well?

My saturn usually runs great. with the exception on high idiling. Today driving to work my check engin light come one and the car died. i checked for codes and im getting a p0410. any suggestion on what to replace or check.

Hi
Code is air injection fault could be failed pump or carbon deposits but should not cause engine to die. Pull plug wire check for spark if good spray carb cleaner into throttle body see if it fires.
Let me know
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For about 2 years I have had a problem with my saturn not starting after it has run for a while. The car would run fine while on a trip but when I would stop to stretch my legs or go into a convenence store and then try to resume my trip the car would not start. I will ingage the ignition switch but there is no responce. After waiting for as long as 30 minutes or more it will then start. During all this time I am trying to start the car. But there is no responce from the starter. I have taken the vehicle into the Saturn dealer but they have been unable to resolve the problem. The dealer has tried various things but none of them have worked.

I have exactly the same problem. Have you gotten any answers? What has the dealership ruled out?


[quote:a14cb7492c="Llewellyn kyle"]Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Saturn SL2 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 105000 miles

For about 2 years I have had a problem with my saturn not starting after it has run for a while. The car would run fine while on a trip but when I would stop to stretch my legs or go into a convenence store and then try to resume my trip the car would not start. I will ingage the ignition switch but there is no responce. After waiting for as long as 30 minutes or more it will then start. During all this time I am trying to start the car. But there is no responce from the starter. I have taken the vehicle into the Saturn dealer but they have been unable to resolve the problem. The dealer has tried various things but none of them have worked.[/quote:a14cb7492c]

my car starts fine when it is the first time of the day it starts. but after the first time, it starts then immidiately dies and then you have to crank it for at least 10+ seconds while holding the throttle all the way to the floor n order for it to start and then once it starts you still have to have the throttle all the way to the floor in order for it to keep running, as it chugs really bad and smokes for about 10-30 seconds then it runs fine after that. i have no idea what would be causing this problem, so any help at all would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like a bad coolant temp sensor and possibly the connector also very common on those cars.

that would cause starting issues like i am having?

Oh yeah starting stalling etc All kinds of different symptoms I have seen.

car start & runs fine for several days in a row, then won't start. starts easily with jump, battery not completely dead? some days can leave set when it won't start in the morning, & it will start in afternoon without jumping. not sure how old battery is, doesn't appear to be coroded.

i would start by making sure ur battery cable ends are clean and tight.then go to the auto parts store and have them check ur battery and alternator.let me know what u find.

2000 saturn sl2 3.0 v6 vehicle came in with blown head gaskets, repaired head gaskets,head bolts and installed new timing belt and water pump. got everything back together and all of a sudden no fuel pressure. engine cranks. replaced pump and filter but still no power to pump. i have power to relay and fuse but not getting to pump. Hope you can help

If the relay is good, then the power supply to the pump is either damaged or the wiring harness at the tank isn't making a good connection. It sounds like it's time to start tracing wires to see where the loss is located.

For the last month or so, my Saturn has had occasional instances of not starting. This occurs after a short trip (10-20 min), after which I have to wait 30-45 min before the starter engages.The battery is in good shape, and the electrical appliances all come on while I'm waiting.

When the no start condition exists you need to check for 12 volts at the "small wire" terminal on the starter solenoid. If you do, your starter solenoid or starter is bad.

my 2000 saturn SL2 won't start lights come on but car won't turn over. What's wrong?

Is it cranking over and will not start or just won't crank over at all/nothing when key is turn to cranking position

try putting it in and out of park and then start. or try to start in neutral. this could be a neutral safety switch issue.

could also be a starter problem. has it ever acted up before?