Power steering replacement instructions needed

I am not sure I understand the issue with the bolt so if you can get a picture of what it look like then I will be able to address that portion better.

However, here are a couple guides that will help with step by step instructions:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-power-steering-pump

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGBUv5r9fk0

Below you will find the process from the manual that will give the detail needed to complete this as well.

Please let us know if you can get pictures but if the line will just not come off, then yes, I would remove the line with the pump and replace it. Again, I am not sure I am understanding that correctly.

Thanks

No, it's not the bolt that's my issue other than the idiot that supposedly changed the first pump broke the housing where it connects to the car. my issue is with the metal lines that connect to the pump and then through the truck to the steering rack and pinion and how I get them both off? now that he broke the housing because he didn't take the lines off the pump first now i can't stabilize the pump in order to remove the lines so i'm guessing i'm going to have to just replace both. so if this is the case can't I just cut off these lines pull them and the broken pump off and then install new ones? if so I need a step by step instructions on how to remove the old and or install the new ones please.

Okay, I understand. However, before we go to that extent, can you get some pictures and I am sure we can come up with some ways to stabilize the pump so that you can break the lines loose.

Yes, you can cut them if you are going to replace them but again, it would be much easier to remove them so I would suggest exhausting that first and then we can cut them off. Plus it would save the expense of the lines as well.

Maybe a video or a couple pictures from your phone and attach them using the link below called Add Image or Video.

I attached the diagram on the steering system and unfortunately they don't list a process for just the lines because this is one that they leave to the mechanic to "figure out" on their own. I have attached the info that they do provide which is not much.

Let me know and we can figure that out.

Thanks

Okay, I will go and try but where the pumps at it's almost impossible to get to it let alone get my phone in the space to take a pic. but it has got 2 or 3 bolts that hold it on the car. i tried putting them back on and found the broken spot where 1 bolt can't be screwed back in because it's broken off the pump. I will try to send video or pics in a few.

Okay. Sounds good. I understand. Nissan did not waste any space.

We will wait to hear back and we can go from there. Thanks again.

Here's a few pics showing the eye bolt I need off to remove the lines and of where the bolt housing is broken and 1showing the steering gear boot. You can't see it but it's not attached at the rack and pinion. can I reattach them with clamps or do I have to replace them?

I understand. Do you have an impact gun with air compressor? If so, then that will get it off as you will be able hold the pump steady enough but the shock of the impact will get it loose.

If you don't then do you have a ratchet strap that you can strap this so a near by bracket? Large c clamp vice grip that will do the same thing? Basically we need to get creative to secure this just so you can get that bolt loose. I am sure there is something we can do so that you don't have to replace that line.

If may be something to look into renting the air compressor and impact wrench so that you can get this off. I know our local parts store has this stuff or even Home Depots that have tool rentals have this stuff as well.

As for the rubber boot. That can be put back on with a hose clamp but if there is already dirt and water inside of it then it is only a matter of time before it fails. However, it is better to secure it back and not just leave it as it will fail quicker if you leave it open.

There's not enough room to get to it with a impact or much else. here's pics I got it attached. it that bolt not budging ether direction any other ideas?

Okay. I totally understand not getting the impact in there but what if you used a 3 foot extension and a swivel socket?

I have not done this job on this vehicle but have done it on a Versa. Granted, different vehicle and different engine. I was able to come in through the wheel well with a long extension and swivel socket and get that bolt off.

It was my wife's car so I will try and get that set up again and get a picture of it just to show what I am talking about.

I was able to get it back onto the vehicle even though the 1 bolt can't be installed due to its housing being broken off, but I still can't get that eye bolt to budge regardless which way I turn it. I've used a size 24 mm wrench and a crow foot type wrench and adapter. I can't find a 24inch flare nut wrench and I can see fluid around the base of this nut as well. but this is where i'm stuck at now. would it be smart or safe to refill with fluid and take it to a shop which i can't afford. but I can't afford to be without my car either.

One of my issues is recognizing when a second opinion or a shop is needed but if that is just not coming off, then I suspect we are at that point.

I am sure it will be fine as that will not leak that much but if it is topped off then it will be more then enough to get it there.

Thanks for sticking with us and keeping us updated. Please let us know what you decide and how it works out. Thanks

I honestly can't afford to send it to a shop. to be honest I've only had the car maybe 4 or 5 months and it has been messed up about half this time do to this.

And i'm sure it's ether empty or really close to empty. I emptied the reservoir and disconnected the hoses and kept them that way at least two weeks, but I've got it back on my car now just not very tight due to that middle bolts broken housing. so it's not very secure there now. but i'm hopeful I will be able to get in there and remove it tomorrow. if so I will post and let you know. thanks for your help.

Could it possibly be that all of my leaking since first having the pump changed came from where i'm seeing fluid at or maybe when the new one was put on they didn't put on the copper washer causing it to leak. just reading through our past messages and this came to mind.

If a shop is not an option then there are two options. Keep trying to get creative and get that line off. Or cut the line and replace it. Unfortunately we don't have a step by step for this process so that is going to be a process of seeing how it comes out and then reversing.

Normally you could just cut the line and splice it back together but this is the high pressure line and this vehicle will get up to 1,500 PSI which will not hold if you try to cut it and join it back together.

So unfortunately you may be left with cutting it and removing it in two sections then clearly reversing that process to install it.

See below for the diagram of the line which should help with the removal as seeing the whole thing may make it easier to figure out it comes out.

Okay. well, I'm under it now trying to get the pump more connected to the frame so I can get a better grip of the eye bolt. but if i'm under it facing the front of the car I twist it towards the right or left wheel to loosen it? I will let you no how I do or don't do, lol.

Is this hose supposed to feel like loose heat wrap outside of a hard type of hose?

Okay, here's my latest info: I finally got all the lines and boots off now I just can't get the dang thing itself out no matter how I twist it around its like somethings holding it in somehow still and I even tried a pry bar and it won't come out.

That is progress. Congratulations. Good work.

Now that the pump is loose, you have a bracket on the back of the pump that bolts the pump to the block. That bracket has to be off for the pump to come out.

The Maxima is the same way. There are a ton of videos online of people doing this but below is a picture of the bracket.

So how do I get it off?

There are two bolts. I circled both locations. I think they are 13 or 15 mm and you can use a ratcheting wrench to get them off. once that is off the pump will come out and the bracket can stay there as you will attach the new pump to it.

Okay, so i got the old one off and the new one on. i followed the manuals steps on bleeding the lines and at first it was hard and tight but eventually it went back to normal, but i could still hear a slight winding growl sound. so after all this i go to bed and got up just now and all the fluid is on the ground under my truck mostly where the pump and reservoir area is. so what now? do you think maybe somethings not on right or the hoses or lines in that area are messed up? what are you thoughts now? please. By the way, remember this is the second pump in six months. now i replaced the power steering switch and its harness with generic. though changed the drive belt the reservoir because i lost my lid to the old 1. other than that no parts changed connect to it.

If the lines were on backwards then you would not have pressure and it would be hard to steer.

The fact that it was working but making noise it most likely still had air in the system. However, now that you have fluid all over the ground we are just going to have to put more fluid in and turn the vehicle on and watch for where it is coming out.

Was the fluid sprayed all over or does it look like it is just dripping from one place?

Unfortunately there is not one issue that causes this as it could be a faulty pump seal or a line that has blown off, or even a crack in a line now.

I didn't remove any of the lines i only disconnected them at the eye bolts and replaced the copper washers on both ends. the only hose i took off is the one from the reservoir. can i use any fluid or does it have to be Nissan?

Oh wow. That is a lot of fluid.

You can use the Nissan fluid or Dexron VI can be used. Take a look below.

Let us know what you find when you put the fluid in it and start the vehicle. I suspect you will see the issue pretty quickly.

Okay, so another update and some pics. so after goin out yesterday i open the hood and all the fluid was all on the ground from the other night. my reservoir was actually still at the max line so i get under it and that line that has the eyebolt and has like a rubber tubing around it. well where it connects to the rack and pinion appeared to be leaking some from around the bolts that connect it. so i tightened them or i think i did at least and it also looks like the reservoir which i replaced because i lost my cap to the old one may of leaked also. but on the reservoir are 2 hoses 1 going down to the pump and 1 going towards the radiator area this hose looks like it may of touched something hot at some point or maybe it's just old. i don't see any other spots that appear to of leaked. i'm going to go out and see if the steering wheel turns and makes noise. oh, and i did notice that my steering wheels now actually going into the lock position when the cars off, as it wasn't before the new pump was installed. here's the pics tell me if this hose from the reservoir and what i think is the line connector should be replaced or not i have to take a better pic of the hose.

Okay, so i went out and started it up and it's leaking from the power steering switch. the one you screw into that metal line with the eye/banjo bolt and remember i had to replace it after the original person broke it off with part inside the the hole and the other part at the harness connector. which i had to replace because it wouldn't separate from the plug. both were not replaced with the Nissan brand but a way cheaper brand. would this cause it to leak? I'm going to try to attach a video of how its coming out to show you. can i drive it now or should i wait until all leaks are stopped first. scratch the video can't get under it enough. but i can see the tensioner pulley moving when it's running. so i'm guessing i missed some bolts when reinstalling the pump. so i'm going to check this out and let you know later. thanks

Sounds good. If this is leaking then it will operate just fine as long as there is fluid in it. So if the fluid leaks out fast enough then clearly you can not drive it.

Plus if the leak is large enough to leak all the fluid out over night then it is not a good idea to drive it just because you will leaving fluid everywhere you stop and that is not the best thing to do.

Keep us posted with what you find.

Thanks

Okay, so new update: i have managed to get everything put back together. however, the leak is actually coming from the power steering switch that i replaced .however isn't there a gasket that goes onto it where it screws into the car? if so mine is missing. so do they sell just the gasket or do i have to replace the switch again all together? btw this is the only place i can find leaking.

Take a look at the picture below and make sure we are talking about the same part. If so, then yes, those rubber o rings are sold separate and most likely just about 10 cents at a parts store for just one. Just remove the sensor and take it with you and they should be able to get one that fits.

Basically it should stretch over the nipple of the sensor and fit tightly on it.

Yes that's it and dang it i ordered another one already because i didn't think i could buy one by itself.

Sorry I didn't get back to you before you did that. Please keep us posted with how this turns out. Thanks

Okay, so i got the new one today i'm about to go install it, but i can say this is a much better made one than the one i have in it now. so I will update again when done.

Do you know what this goes over? the person that caused all of this removed it from somewhere and i cleaned it up, but can't figure out where it goes to.

That is a skid plate. The FR means front and the arrow points in the direction of the front of the vehicle.

I can't find where it bolts back onto my truck but I'm still leaking fluid its ether from the psp switch or somewhere above it but not at the reservoir but i cant figure out where here's a video though. let me know what you think. it's not making the whining noise as much, mostly when I'm bleeding the lines and turning it all the way one way or the other. my kid said it flows more when turning the wheel in one direction verses the other. what's your thoughts now? because i'm begining to feel defeated.

Could it be the harness to the switch it was replaced with a aftermarket one or the line it screws into? i have read a lot of complaints with this issue only no results were given just my luck.

The wiring harness has no access to the fluid so if it is dripping from the switch through the harness then you need to clean it all off and run it again so it starts dripping again. Then trace that line and see if it is just running down the line.

The switch is sealed and that electrical connector just plugs into the switch so it is not going to leak from the harness.

It is going to run down lines so it is dripping off that switch which means it is either the switch is still leaking or running down the line. See the pictures below.

Okay, so what's your suggestion? it's such a tight fit up inside there but could it be coming from the line then I don't know what else to try. but i know last night when i turned the wheel it came out of wherever quicker and emptied the reservoir but it hadn't emptied it before. let me know what your thoughts are to try next. And details if any on how to do what you suggest, please.

Spray it down with degreaser and wash it off so there is no oil on the line or switch. Then start the engine and run your hand down the line until you feel oil. Unfortunately there is no trick to this, just going to literally track the oil until you find where it is coming from. Use mirrors or a borescope to try and get a better view. Sorry there is no easy button on finding it.