Engine will crank but not start?

WHAT MOTOR!

None of the fuses are dead, and it's been like this for over a week now.

2.3L L4 GAS

the module on the cap carrier on the top of the motor is a common failure. i suggest replace plugs, boots, coils, carrier and module. cross arcing in the carrier is usually the reason for the failure.

Roy

I've had the module checked 6 different times already, and every auto parts store that has checked it has said that the module is fine.

could be crank sensor.

My car gets harder to start the colder the weather gets. It seems to flood easily, and usually takes many tries to finally get it going. I recently replaced the coil pack with one from a junkyard to save money. Could this be the problem. It starts ok when its warm.

i always have new plugs installed or clean the 1's already in if recent(1yr) before really cold weather. iridium or platinum seem to work best also. coil pack should not be issue if works fine in warm weather.

and check fuse 37 as this has been reported to cause no/hard cold starts if blown.

and why do you think it is flooded? you can clear flood by holding pedal to floor usually.

Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Pontiac Grand Am 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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I had the car put on a diagnostics machine and it said running to lean in bank 1. What would be the cause and what do I need to do to repair?

Usually that indicates a bad o2 sensor . On your vehicle it is located :Under hood, center, rear engine area, passenger side of distributor, mounted in block.

-Rob

I can drive the car till it reaches operating temperature, then it will just die. Won't start but turns over. The fuel pump sounds like it is working. I changed the coil housing, ngk plugs, boots look good, coils measure 6K ohms, after the car cools back down it starts fine. Ideas?

Is there spark when the engine is up to temperature? If not, test the Ignition Control Module when the engine is up to temp...Also, it could be the coolant sensor. It is easier to just replace this sensor than to test it..

It definitely sounds like a sensor problem!
I have the same car, IF the car can drive a little I would recommend going to autozone.

To make sure you can ask them to check out your car for free, they will hook an electronic that will pinpoint exactly what is wrong.

Autozones' computer scanners will tell you what trouble code is stored - it will not pin point the problem, but it will point you down the right path..BUT - there is no mention of the check engine light being 'on' - so that means that there is no trouble code stored in the computer.. If the check engine light is 'on' then have the computer scanned and post back with the trouble code...

That is correct, the check engine light has never came on when it's shut down on me. The last time it acted up I disconnected the battery cable to see if that would reset a bad sensor or module, no luck. I do have an Autozone close by, would be interesting to see if their scanner could detect the problem being there are no codes being tripped. I think I will replace the coolant sensor and coolant sending unit and see what that does. I will let you guys know what I find out!

If the light is not on, then autozones' scanner cannot help you. When the engine stalls again, remove the ignition control module and have it tested at autozone - it will be hot so be carefull. Changing the coolant sensors is also a good idea.

So I changed out the coolent sensor and the sending unit sensor but it is still acting up. It did run longer but eventially shut itself off. Next stop ignition module...

It ended up being the crank sensor. That was fun to replace, they usually break off in the block. Four hours later I invented a tool to get it out of there!

Hi,

I just got this car about 2 months ago from a dealer and it ran fine then a month ago it started to hesitate both on surface streets and the freeway but I found if I let off the Gas then reapplied it it would run fine otherwise it would bog down then suddenly jerk forward like it was shifting hard but the engine wasn't revving up so I ruled out Trans problems.

Now the car won't start in the morning after having been driven during the day, the starter is turning but the car won't crank over, I just changed all the plugs yesterday and this seemed to help at first I mean it started and ran fin but then when I got up this morning it just won't start again.

Hello, have you done any basic testing? Have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Check for codes.

Possible catalytic convertor

i have a 1995 pontiac grand am with the 3.1 with 217,000 the car will turn over and fire but wont start it will fire 2-3 time and then wont till you let it sit and then try it again and it will fire another 2-3 times i have no clue what it could be please help me out

Start by checking fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, if you don't have access to a gauge, remove intake tube and spray some starting fluid in intake, if engine runs a few seconds, then most likely you have a fuel problem like pump, clogged filter.

I have good fuel pressure and i tried spray into the intake, then the car will not fire. But if i dont spray anything and you crank for about 5 seconds, the car will fire but wont start.

After a cranking episode, remove plugs and look for gas fouling.

This sounds like an ignition problem. Remove plug, attach wire and ground to valve cover bolt, crank engine, spark should be blue and "snap", anything else is considered no spark.

I would then change plugs and wires, but really the best approach is to have car scanned in live data mode to see if ignition problem is coil, ignition module, crank sensor.

It is also possible that the rich mixture is caused by a failed sensor (coolant temp for example). If bad, ECM will set a default rich mixture to protect engine from lean condition.

1995 Grand Am 2.3-Car starts right up, runs fine until you shut it off after ten minutes or more of driving. Then it won't re-start until it sits for about an hour. Replaced crankshaft position sensor,spark plugs and wires. Any ideas?

When the problem occurs, if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. How long since a tune-up?

Some of these ignition systems, the ignition module may sit right on top of the sparks, in this case, remove the module, turn it upside down, use a spark tester in each boot, Either ground the metal part of spark tester to metal part of engine or use jumper to ground tester. Crank engine watch for spark.

Can you check for applicable trouble codes?

I just pulled my engine out to re-gasket the whole thing and when I put it back in it will not start. I have spark and fuel but I did how ever find that the fuel injectors are not releasing the fuel. The fuel pump is will run and the fuel rail will pressurize.

welcome to the forum, with the key on, do you have voltage at the injector? the computer pulses the injector ground circuit, if it sees an rpm signal.

If there is no power at the injectors what would be the next thing to check?

Thanks tons

The pink wire at injector/s is voltage, goes hot with the key on. That is a fused circuit, I believe the fuel pump circuit gets votage from the same fuse. So if the fuel pump works, It sounds like the computer isn't grounding the injector circuit for some reaon. My first thought is no rpm signal. Possible crank sensor issue or wiring circuit, can't be sure.

Ok I am wondering that pink wire from the injectors.... I am looking at the chiltons schematic and it also shows a pink wire from the instrument cluster, could that be the same wire? the reason I ask is becouse at the same time this happend my dash lights in the cluster started acting up. Also do you know were that curcuit that you mentioned is located?

Thanks for all your help and Merry Christmas!

Do you know what a fuel injector looks like? It's connected to the fuel rail, three cylinders for each bank and three injectors for eack bank, six injectors, overall. With engine cranking, can hear or feel the injector click? You might be able to use a screwdriver with a long shank, place the tip on the injector, place the other end of the shank against your head, close to your ear, see if you can feel or hear the injector click.

The injector has an electrical connector, to check for voltage, you can unplug the connector, turn the key on, no need to crank, use a testlite on the terminal for the pink wire. If the lite comes on, there is voltage at the pink wire.

I don't believe your injectors and dash lites are on the same fuse circuit. Depending on what dash lites your talking about, they may both use ignition feed to the fuse circuits, different fuse circuit.

with the key turned on the pink wire gets 12 volts and when i turn the engine over it remains 12 volts.

Thanks

Use a noid lite on the injector plug, see if it pulses, engine cranking? Sounds like the pcm isn't grounding the injector/s for some reason. If your fully obd1 compliant, check for trouble codes.

hello,
I had just started my car and it was idling and it just shut off on its own and will not start up. The battery is good and the alternator, we had those things checked out. It seems as though its not getting any gas. We do not have a repair manual. do you have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Welcome, If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Can you check for codes?

What kind of codes? Electrical? I don't have a manual. Do you know where I can get a free manual, I couldn't find anything online. Do libraries carry them? I know I can buy one but I'm looking for alternatives. Thanks for your help