Engine not running?

Hi:
when was the last tune up? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Let me know.
Joe

replaced cracked distributor car started drove it for a little while. shut it off to put gas in it and it wouldnt start. Replaced 3 out of 6 wires they were bad pulled out wire from casing. Cant get to the number one without going underneath of the car. Could that keep it from restarting because all wires were not replaced

Check all of them if they are producing a snapping blue spark

they are producing a yellow spark not blue

Check the input voltage to the coil and also test the coil primary and secondary winding resistances

no power is getting to starter

Can you provide some symptoms? If you're hearing one kind of loud clunk when you turn the ignition switch to "crank", suspect worn solenoid contacts. If there's no clunk, and you don't hear the starter relay click, suspect a defective neutral safety switch. You might need to measure voltages at the starter relay socket. That will split the circuit into four parts.

caradiodoc

Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Plymouth Acclaim 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 200k miles

i have spark and compression is good. the fuel pump was not pumping fuel, so i removed it and put 12 volts to it. it worked, but when i reconnect it, it does not work. the wires are all connected, i replaced the relay. I cannot see a fuel pump fuse in the panel, so I assume there is none. there is only one fuse panel. please help. Iam going crazy, and I need my car to go to work, or my family is in real trouble. thanks

Hi:
check under the hood in the power distribution box for a fuel pump fuse. Also, did you check if there was power to the fuel pump plug? The plug may be bad.

The throttle sticks in the home/idle position. Car starts fine, but when you press the accelerator pedal it is hard to press, like it is stuck, the car lurches forward and then the pedal is fine after that. It doesn't occur all of the time but always after the car is turned off. It is always at the idle position. Car has a 3.3 L. If the accellerator pedal is press before turning on the engine it is fine. Is there a possible worn grove or notch?

Possible notch/groove or just a buildup of debris.

Rotate the throttle body by hand, if it sticks, then remove it and clean.
If it does not stick, then most likely the throttle cable is worn/kinked.

Thank you for the reply. I removed the kick down lever for the transmission and now the throttle does not stick at idle. I lubed up the kick down linkage.

I am receiving a code 12 display on my computer dash board lights and it will not start.. Could you please help me with this problem.

Are you saying it cranks good but won't start? The code 12 means battery power has been lost at some point. Make sure the battery has a full charge and all connections coming and going from the battery are clean and tight on both ends.

Car was working fine, parked it for two days, tried to start it, will crank, but won't start. Fuel pump is not getting voltage, checked with meter, disconnected gas line, no gas comes out when cranked. Found relay to fuel pump and hot wired it and fuel pump worked. So it is not the fuel pump. I replaced the relay and still did not work. I have changed the fuel filter.

Do you have spark? A yes or no will a difference in which direction we go.

Yes I do have spark, just no voltage going to fuel pump

You've done good! The fuel pump relay gets it's instruction to close from the computer. if you have, or have access to, a scan unit you can hook it up a see if the computer is telling the relay to close. Having sat for a couple of days shouldn't be a factor.

our 94 plymouth acclaim has been dying periodically this weekend it died and would not restart. We changed the distributor cap, the plug wires and the rotor. Using a test light we see that no power is getting to the coil

Did you check for fuel spray from the injector or just stop troubleshooting when you found no spark?

If you also have no fuel spray, suspect a defective hall effect switch pickup assembly. It's a disc under the rotor in the distributor.

caradiodoc

Actually we found the problem recently, thanks for your reply. The timing belt was broken. $400 dollars of parts later, it was a $20 timing belt. go figure. the pick up coil under the rotor was one of the parts we changed.

you indicated on your reply to my last question on the code 12 display that there was no solution to my problem..according to the haynes repair manual on the code 12 display check engine light it say's that there is a (problem with the stand-by memory circuit,direct battery input to controller disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on's.) Could this information help you with a solution to my problem.I would be glad to donate to your services if we can find a solution to my problem.

Hi, if you stay on the original post, the site will send an e-mail notice that you are asking another question. If you make a new post, we won't know, unless we stumble upon it. I looked at the same code, you did. I believe I gave you an answer. I've answered several posts this morning, I'll have to go back and look at the original post. I'll come back to this one or however you want to do it? Donations are great,but, I'll help you either way, the best I can. Am I the best mechanic here, not even close. Am I ok on the basics, I think I am.

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Plymouth Acclaim 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My daughter got soaked on her way home from prom Fri. night, her car felt like it was running out of gas, then stalled. There's plenty of gas in it and now it cranks strong, we have spark and fuel but no start even with starting fluid. There's plenty of fuel in the injector rails but the spark plugs are not getting wet, dont think fuel is going to injectors ??

Crank engine over and listen to the injector/s are they clicking? if not could be no power to the injector/s or the computer ground driver/s. If its clicking -Check the valve and ignition timing.

Hello, One morning, I went to start my car, got nothing, no lights, no power. I took battery & alternator to Kragens to be tested, both failed & were dead. I replaced both, alternator & battery. My car ran good for two days. Then on my way home from the gym, all my dashboard lights, head lights dimmed, then lost power until my car died out. I waited 20 min for tow truck, car started right up, about 10 min later all the lights dimmed again & car died out. This has been the on going process. I reinstalled alternator & battery, everything is clean, on nice & tight. I also had the battery & alternator tested twice, both are good. I also came up with codes 21 & 45. I can't find the codes online. Please Help, THANX...

Do you have a voltmeter or test light and know how to use 'em?

21 - oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected
45 - turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects over-boost

Yeah, I have both and know how to use them.

All the diagnosis can be done right at the back of the alternator. Check for full battery voltage all the time on the large output wire bolted on. Assuming that's okay, measure the voltages on the two small tabs bolted on that are sticking out of the black plastic block. Those must be taken with the engine running. One will have full battery voltage. The other one is the secret. It should have less but not 0 volts. 4 - 11 volts is typical.

Ok, I will do that and I will get back to you with the results. Thank You...

1994 plymouth acclaim trying to find fuse panel other than the one on interior under steering wheel is there another panel located that is under hood. car wont start headlights dont work radio doesnt work but battery is fine car turns over but just wont start thinking it has to be a fuse please help

There usually is another one under the hood. My 06 Malibu had another in the trunk! The cabin fuse can run the radio and possibly the lights but I dont think that would keep it from starting.

The fuses under the hood are fuse link wires. They're in a bundle going around the left strut tower. Separate them, then pull on them one at a time. If they act like a wire, they're good. If they act like a rubber band, they're burned open. Wires were used instead of fuses because they were expected to last the life of the car, and most do. They feed other fuses which will blow when something on that line is shorted. They also do not develop corroded contacts as fuses can do.

My car started fine yesterday morn on way home stopped to get food it had slow start but started later that nite went to go to store it would not start it turns over but dont start

Check fuel pressure to make sure you are getting fuel.

How do I Check fuel presure

Go to parts store and rent a fuel pressure gauge. Your test port should be on the fuel rail somewhere. It may have a black cap on the test port to unscrew. attach the gauge and turn the key to the "on" position and watch the fuel gauge to rise (should stay high with no decrease in pressure).

Any other possible reason why won't start

Could the heat have anything to do with it it was close to 90 here yesterday