high/low beam stopped working ?

Hello,

This could very well be a problem with Ground #102 on the left side of the engine compartment. A lot of times people will concentrate on the positive side of an electrical circuit, but often forget that it is only 1/2 of the circuit and forget about the ground side. In fact 75% of all automotive electrical circuits are poor ground related. Please check this ground and make sure it is clean, tight, corrosion free, and making good metal to metal contact. I have included a guide for checking grounds in the diagrams down below. Please go through this guide and check the ground and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Okay, first off, can you tell me exactly what the (T.I.M.) looks like? Took a couple pictures of engine compartment. i hope what you're talking about isn't the thing with the two big lock down connectors on it. i was told to never disconnect these for it can fry the main computer if not done by service techs.

That should say Totally Integrated Power Module aka TIPM. It is the fuse box, but in your case it is a lot more than just a fuse box, it controls pretty much every electrical component on the car, and they are a very well known failure item. In your center picture it is the black box next to the fender. It has a circuit board inside it with all the relays and controls for the electronics on it. To repair them, you replace the entire box or you can send them out for repair.
First however you will want to verify that the ground is good as it can corrode off and you lose the light, especially as you lost both high and low. An easy way to verify it would be to remove the connector from the bulb, use a test light connected to ground (battery negative) turn on the lights on either beam. Now probe the three wires, the light should come on when you touch either pin 1 or 3, switch to the other beam and check again, it should now light on one of those two, but the opposite of the first time. Now connect the light to battery positive and touch the light to the last terminal 2, if the light doesn't light the ground is bad. There are a couple ways to deal with this, the correct way is to follow the wire over to the ground connection and repair it as needed. The other way would be to splice a new wire into the existing and attach it to a different ground point.

If there is no power at either of the two (1&3) pins in either headlight position then it is likely a bad TIPM. There are ways to wire in other relays to bypass the internals, but the testing needs to be done first, and then you need to decide.

Okay, I have a lot better idea of what to do now, first i must wait for better weather since we have no covered area to work on it, but, i'm a bit of a Mcgyver, so now i have this information, i'll give it a try, found a re-manufactured unit through Cardone for $300.00. i'm hoping i don't have to go that route. as always, thanks again, i'll be in touch.

I have rebuilt a few. I've also created a few "altered" units by adding external relays. For instance in your case I would be tempted to test it all and be 100% sure it was in the TIPM and not a bad ground, then if needed add a relay to each of the high and low beam feeds from the working side and power the "bad" side from those. Don't try to power them directly, the relays in the TIPM are not that robust.

This method of wiring in from the working side will not effect how my fog lights work, ? I mean, when my fog lights are being used, when flip on my high beams the fog lights go off, and if my lights are not on, i can still use the flash method for signaling fellow drivers and such. In other words, everything will work as normal,.?

It shouldn't as that is all still controlled inside the TIPM. The relays would simply send power to the existing lights. You would have one relay connected to the high beam and another to the low. If you look at the picture attached it would be almost identical to what you would do. The battery feed would be connected to both relays (gray wire) through a fuse, the ground (black wire) goes to a handy bare metal spot near the TIPM. The one tagged as low beam would go to the working low beam on one relay and to the high beam on the other relay. The 12 volts out goes to the correct light on the other side. When you turned on the lights on say low beam, the working light would come on and turn on the relay which would turn on the "bad" lights low beam. When you select high beam it would turn off the low beam relay and turn on the high beam relay.
This is pretty much the way the relays inside the box work, except in there they use a single relay that selects high beam when on and low beam when off. This is also the way you can add driving or fog lights on a computer controlled system or trailer lights on a newer vehicle. It is actually how many vehicles lights do work.

There actually were kits out there for some vehicles that added relays and feeds up front because it cut out a lot of high current wiring from the battery to the dimmer switch and then to the lights and would give you brighter headlights do to the lowered line resistance.
The kit was set up the same way those relays are.

Hello again, i'm in the midst of doing this process, called around for the relays, need to know one thing. can you tell me if between the low and high beam relays there would be a specified one? ( i'm thinking the high beam takes a higher rated relay than the low) Because the guy at parts store has four post relays but don't know if it will work with both high and low?

Both light filaments are virtually the same rating 55W low 60W high. So figure about 6-7 amp draw at initial turn on. The common Bosch style that handle 20+ amps will last virtually forever in this application. Should look like the pictures. They are available in pretty much anyplace that sells electrical parts, even wal~mart has them in the automotive area. What is your general area in NY?

Thats fabulous news, you have no idea the relief all this help you guys provide does. I'll be in touch.Thanks a million!

Well guys, good news is i have working headlights once again, but when i hooked up the relays it stopped both bulbs from working. Took them out, hooked up directly from working side and poof, both work as they should, for now anyway.

Hmm that's strange, it shouldn't have done that as the relays draw less current than the bulbs and would isolate them from each other. But you have working lights now. Where abouts in NY?

East Meredith, Ny.

Was down your way last week to visit a friend in Delhi.
I would probably be prepared for the lights to fail again, mainly because the internal relays are not able to handle the load of both bulbs. Could you give me the part number of the relays you used? The common ones would be wired as I said, but there are a couple that look the same but use a different pattern, not real common but they used to be out there. The only other thing I can think of would be if the "bad" light wiring was actually shorted to ground, but that should have shown up while testing in the first place.

I ran a continuity test and they both failed, mind you the guy at the auto parts store he had to get them out of back warehouse, not commonly used anymore e says, you are going old school with this job, he states it could be they were both no good, they are old ones and i already returned them for my money back, but, my pln is to hopefully keep them running long enough to save the money, then i'll change over the T.I.P.M. but for now this will have to do,..very tight SSI budget, i'm sure you know what I mean.

Hmm, wonder if the ones you got were corroded internally from setting? Hmm must be a newer parts guy LOL. If you were a bit closer I'd come visit and wire in a couple for you. I keep them on hand for issues like this. There are a couple factory bypass methods by Chrysler and GM that use them for situations like yours. The big one is for the fuel pumps on both.

I appreciate the thought, besides woud have no way of paying for that. Oh, great, now i know i should keep my eyes on that... How many of you guys are there that give their services online like this?

It's one of the downsides of the TIPM in the Chryslers, on the GMs it's because the relay can get hot and melts the OEM connector. I wouldn't worry much about it, the rebuilds usually use a heavier relay in the rebuilds.
We have quite a few folks answering questions.

I was wondering what are the fuse numbers for the headlights left and right on a 2009 caliber with a 2.0l engine?

Good morning.

There are no fuses for the headlights. They are controlled by different module for operation starting with the headlight switch.

I attached a wiring diagrams (below) of the lights for you so you can see how the system works . The power comes from the TIPM or the fuse box based on input signals.

Headlamps:

The headlamp system includes the SCM, the EMIC, the TIPM, and the left (lighting) multi-function switch on the steering column. The headlamp bulbs have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment harness has takeouts with eyelet terminals that are secured by nuts to ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine compartment. The TIPM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any shorts or opens in the headlamp circuits.

The SCM monitors a hard wired multiplex input to determine the status of the left multi-function switch and whether the headlamp high or low beams are selected. The SCM then sends the appropriate electronic headlamp switch and headlamp beam select switch status messages to the EMIC over the LIN data bus. The EMIC then sends the appropriate electronic headlamp and headlamp beam request messages to the TIPM over the CAN data bus. The TIPM responds to these messages by providing a pulse width modulated voltage output to the headlamps through high side drivers on the right and left low and high beam feed circuits to illuminate the selected headlamp filaments. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages to the EMIC to control the illumination of the high beam indicator. When the optical horn feature is selected, the low beams will shut OFF about 200 milliseconds after the high beams are activated.

The TIPM also remembers which beams (LOW or HIGH) were selected when the headlamps were last turned OFF, and energizes those beams again the next time the headlamps are turned ON. The TIPM provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the headlamps, which will turn these lamps OFF if they are left ON for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position. The SCM and the EMIC each provide a fail-safe feature for the headlamps, which will cause the TIPM to turn the low beam headlamps ON automatically if there is no input available from the left multi-function switch. The TIPM also provides a fail-safe feature for the headlamps that will turn the headlamps ON automatically whenever a loss of CAN bus communication is detected with the ignition switch in the ON position.

Each headlamp includes an integral reflector adjustment screw to be used for static aiming of the headlamps. If the bulb is good here is how the TIPM is replaced it is easy.

left font light is not working no power going through I check the only fuse box I could find under the hood I think there is another fuse box some where could you tell me where ?

IF YOUR LIGHT WORKS ON HIGH BUT NOT ON LOW, OR VICE VERSA THEN THE PROBLEM IS MOST LIKELY A BAD HEADLIGHT BULB. If that's been ruled out, try this:

Unplug the wire connector at the left headlight assembly.
With the headlights turned ON there should be power on the
WHT/DK BLU wire with the headlights on LOW/DIM.
There should be power on the WHT/PNK wire with the headlights
on HIGH/BRIGHT.

If not, check for power on these same wires (same colors) at the
TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE located on the left
side of the engine compartment (fuse box).

If there is power at the totally integrated power module but not at the headlight connector
then there is a open in the wire that powers the light that does not work. You'll have to trace the wire to find the open.


Let me know what you find.

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 58,000 miles.

Our driver side low beam head light is not working. We purchased two different replacement lights and neither of those work.

We have checked the fuses and all is well. The high beam works. What is going on? We have now gotten a repair order but cannot seem to get it fixed. Any ideas?

There are 2 fuses that can be out in the TIPM, here is a guide and some diagrams (below) so we can do some tests and see whats wrong.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber and I recently took it to the shop because I had a headlight out and the headlight was not blown so i was unlucky. They told me that I had a circuit blown in my fuse box that controls the low beam to my headlight and they would have to replace the whole box and they could not just fix the circuit that had blown. They informed me that the part would be $745.00. I have this question posted at the moment. I am waiting to hear back to see if there is a fuse for you to fix the problem.

Hope this helps you!

Wow! I hope this is not the problem! We have an inspection ticket on it and really do not have $745.00 right now. Please, someone give us an alternate solution!

I was reading somewhere on this forum that someone else had the same problem and just had to spend $100.00 for the dealer to reset the computer. The computer issue makes sense because our airbag light randomly comes on and goes off and the check engine light also randomly comes on and goes off. $100.00 is better than $750.00!

Butterfly Girl! Do not spend that money! Apparently all you need is for the computer thing to be reset. I took it to a place here locally that my husband used to take all his company vehicle to just to give them a shout out. They charged me $63.00 and cleared the codes and the light worked and I only think it was that much because they did not know what was wrong in the first place.

They are thinking that it is the same kind of system as the Mercedes that has to have to codes cleared every time you fix something like that. Which is a terrible way to design a car, but anyway, we are down $25.00 for the two lights and $63 for the clearing. Better than $745.00 anyway!

They also told me that the module rarely goes bad. Hope this helps!

Thanks so much. I will definitely try that, but I will be sure not to take it back to the Dealership. I think they are definitely trying to rip me off! Thanks so much for your help!

I also have the same issue and traced the circuit back to the computer chip inside the fuse block. I assumed that the chip was bad, although it is my passenger low beam that is out on mine.

I have the fuse block out of the car now and am getting ready to put it back in. I have previously reset the computer codes myself and it did not take care of it, but if it is a power off reset it needs, then I will know shortly.

I will report back on this in a little bit to see if that takes care of the problem.

It did not fix the problem the passenger side low beam is still not working.

Computer is not showing any codes as well.

After searching the internet, it appears as though this is becoming a problem on these vehicles. Some people report success with the computer reset. It is possible that the reset must be done by Chrysler or a place with a more sophisticated scan tool than I have.

I would advise anyone with this problem to keep looking for others that have it and see what becomes of it. Power in numbers!

A week or so ago I noticed that I had a headlight out. Like every other DIY'er, I changed it myself. After I changed it, it didn't have a functional low beam, but the high beam worked. Here's what I've done already:

-Changed the bulb.
-Changed the bulb again.
-Changed out all fuses that are remotely associated with my headlights.
-Changed out the socket that the bulb plugs into (Clipped wires and everything.).
-Changed the bulb again.

I know the first thing that comes to mind is that maybe I touched the bulb with my hands. Please rest assured that has not happened.

The other headlight works just fine, both high and low beam. Help?

Thanks!

John

I have the same issue and have done the same things you have done. I called the dealership and they want $100.00 just to find out the issue. If you find out any info please let me know also. Thank you!

How did you identify the low beam hot wire? What gauge of wire did you use?

I'm not very good with automotive terminology, so I can't be much help here. I did go to my local dealer to have it looked at. They wanted me to pay a $98 diagnostic fee, but I'm up against a trip out of state, so I didn't have much time to shop around.

To make a long story short, I paid the fee, and someone computer related was reset. Everything works like it should now. In my specific case, the problem wasn't something I could have predicted or fixed on my own.

It isn't ideal, but unless you know someone who can access the computer, you may have to bite the bullet on this one...

...though I hope you don't. Good luck!

Anyone with a 2007 Dodge Caliber who is still having problems with their headlights should watch this helpful video from ABC15. Investigative reporter Joe Ducey helps consumers who have been scammed in Phoenix and he recently did this piece about what to do when dealing with this very problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iui6IBniXfo

Thanks so much.

I had the same problem with the TIPM. The reset did nothing. I cut the sockets off of the harnesses, added three inline fuses, three lighted rocker switches, three relays and ran a circuit for the low beams one for the driving lights and one for the high beams. easy fix $25.00 (I already had the wire laying around because I am an electrician). Now I never have to worry about the lighting system circuit in the TIPM going bad again. PS. do not pull the fuse for the headlights because the power source for the wipers comes from this circuit.

Hi Daniel Farrel. Can I please have the schematic of how you set up your system for it to work?
Thanks

Hey Olivier,

I have found these wiring diagrams for you, You will need to wiring in a relay which I have included the guide for. Please let me know how I can help you further.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

This guide tells you what part of the relay to wire for the headlights and which to wire from the switch.

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

My 2007 Caliber was having the same problem as described. The passenger side headlight low-beam did not work despite changing the bulb. I first tried the OBD reset, but a) I didn't have any error codes, and b) it didn't fix my problem.

After another internet search and a couple YouTube videos later, I fixed the problem in about 30 - 45 minutes by running a jumper wire from the driver's side low-beam wire to the passenger side low-beam wire.

Things you need to know:

1) make sure it's not just a bad bulb

2) the passenger side bulb is a bee-awch to work on. The coolant reserve tank and windshield fluid tank are right in the way. The driver's side is much easier, but you have to remove the fresh air cover which is easy-peasy.

3) you'll need to buy some 18G wire and some quick splices to make this go smoothly. AutoZone had what I needed for about $10.

4) you HAVE TO KNOW what wires to splice/jump together. a) The driver's side wire is white with a blue stripe. b) The passenger side wire is violet/purple with a red stripe. Regardless of whether it's the driver's side or passenger side low-beam that's not working, you will be splicing/jumping these two wires.

You'll need wire cutters and needle-nose pliers. Thread the 18G through the front of the car. I tied off the ends to better secure the wire. I found taking the bulbs out massage working on all the wires much easier. (I tried both leaving them in and taking them out) Take you time to ensure that the jumper wire and low-beam wires are secure in the Easy Splices. You really only get 1 good shot at it.

Once your done, test it the lights! Hopefully everything works like mine did.