Randomly engine stalls while driving?

Have you replaced the ignition control module yet? It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor, main control relay or fuel pump is going out but the be sure lets go over these guides to help us fix it the problem. The should scan for codes as well you could have a MAF or MAP sensor going bad which will leave a code (a bad crankshaft sensor will not leave a trouble code FYI). When the engine stalls lift he hood and check to see if any of the relays are hot in the main fuse panel (PDC).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

I will order one and have it shipped. It will take a few days to reply back.

Replaced module. Check wiring and connector. No problems as of yet.

Good to hear I was thinking the ECM relay should be replaced as well. Here is the location. I like the T-shirt :)

Good deal! I'm with Ken on the PCM power relay too!

My truck stalled on my way home from work. Took me 15 cranks to get it started, moved 5ft shut off again. Another 15 cranks or so, get it home.

When the engine stalls can you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

Yes, I can hear the pump spin up when I turn the key.

Perfect, does it have spark? here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

it was the crankshaft sensor thanks you for the help.

Engine starts and idles normally but stalls while driving intermittently. Hot or cold usually when accelerating. Just had both fuel tanks replaced along with both fuel pumps and fuel filters.

When you did the fuel tanks did you do the switching valve? They had big problems with those which made the truck stall just like yours is doing. also this could be a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Please let me know, Ken

My '95 F-150 5.8l occasionally will not start and engine will stall when driving. when this happens there is no spark from the ignition coil. I can sit there and try to start the truck form 10 min. to an hour and it will eventually start. This happens when the truck has been sitting for awhile.

Recently when it happened the engine was sitting for 14 hrs. When I tried to start the engine sounded like it was going to start but it was weak. I checked for spark and it was very weak then went away. After trying for 30 min. it started.

I have replaced the ignition coil and ignition control module. I took it to an auto shop a month a go and they said it was a bad wire between ICM and distributor. It was fine for awhile but problem returned. I took it back, they had it for 4 days and told me they got it to act up one but not long enough to use a scoop on it. They basically said it could be a number of things, pick up coil, ignition switch, bad wire some where, and good luck to you. Funny thing is when I got the truck back the second time I tried to start it, it exibited the problem, in fact it did it twice in the same day. Please help!

I want you to check fuse U 20amp in engine compartment fuse box. Is its okay? Hook it up on the red and light green wire-do you have this?

Pulling the distributor out will be easier to deal with the problem,

Item # 5 = Ignition stator Item # 8 = Ignition module.

Thanks for the info. Irepacled the distributor with a rebuilt unit seems to have fixed it.

Truck was idling high. Mechanic replaced IAC, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body. Did not fix problem. While that problem was going on another started. Sporadic stalling. When the truck runs good, it runs good. But sporadically, usually when it's cold or you first start driving it, sometime at lower speeds you can press the pedal and there's nothing there. Then finally it will catch and it does fine til the next time it decides to do it. The mechanic has done the following with no success. Replaced o2 sensor, tps sensor, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned throttle body, changed ECM, sometimes the check engine light will come on when this is happening sometimes not. I am at a loss. 1500 dollars and nothing is fixed. Oh, and supposedly checked fuel pressure with mechanical gauge. P0172 Any suggestions?

P0172 is for a running rich condition. P0171 would be a lean condition. If it is running lean then inspect the PCV hose. That can collapse or burst and cause a vacuum leak and stalling. If it is running rich then you need to look at both banks 1 and 2 fuel trims. The PCM will set only one bank fault but not the other? Monitoring both banks will give you a bigger picture as to what is going on overall.

The symptoms you describe with no power and running rich would lead me to suspect a faulty mass air flow meter or map sensor (manifold absolute vacuum pressure sensor) If running lean then a PCV vacuum leak or fuel pump not delivering enough fuel pressure. In this case a fuel pressure gauge would need to be installed and driven with it on to see what the pressure is when there is no pedal response?

Supposedly they checked for vacuum leaks. I don't know how good. He checked fuel pressure with gauge but obviously not while it was doing it. The fuel pressure could be fine except when it's doing it, right? Thoughts on this. What if I change the map sensor myself and see what it does? Then maybe the mass air flow if needed? Then if that doesn't do it, get someone to check the fuel with a mechanical gauge? Does that sound like a good plan? I have spent so much money on this with no results. I can change those for probably $175.00 as opposed to $500.00 for them to do it, ya know. But I would like to know if that's a good plan or not. I really appreciate your advice and input.

Check your emissions label under the hood. If this is obd2 then I would recommend you get a scan tool to look at some data. But I would look at the mass air flow sensor first. Try to clean it first to see if it makes a difference.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

Try that out and let us know if it helped.

It's a 1995 so its obd1. And supposedly he cleaned the mass air flow. I wish it was obd2, might make all this easier, ya know? I changed the MAF seems to be good.

wont idle for more then 20 minutes sometimes shuts off while im driving it desnt get any spark from the coil i have changed the coil, distubtor, distubtor cap, plug wires, ingion module, ecm, ecm relay

check the spout connection near the ignition control module it may not be making a good connection. it goes through that to the supply power to themodule from the pcm.

ive checked that its good is there anything else it could be i have checked replaced everything but the ingion. could there a sensor anywhere that would cause it

if you replaced the distributor with anew one then i can rule that out. but if not it could be the reluctor inside the distributor that's where the pointed things are to break the gap. Otherwise whe it does this you'll hve to trace it backwards to findo out where it's cutting thepower off. Also if you have a vacuum line going to the map sensor, that may be soft and sucking together causing it to do that. also check the ground near the top of the radiator and make sure it is clean and making good contact, that may be causing it as well.

ok ill try that thanks

While driving the truck cuts out and stalls then restarts after sitting for about 3 minutes

I would suggest switching the relay with a different relay in the vehicle with the same part number to see if that affects the problem. Also, you may want to consider checking fuel pump pressure. Since it isn't kicking a trouble code (check engine light) the problem may be fuel related. Here is a how to video and directions for checking it.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

The relays checked out ok, the fuel pressure read 30 psi, and the repair manual stated it should be between 35 and 45 psi. The pressure did rise when the vacuum line was disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and the engine was acelerated. Would the fuel filter being clogged cause the psi to be lower that the repair manual statesl.

Yes, it can cause lower pressure. If you get an adapter, you can disconnect the filter and check the pressure before the filter. That would give you an acurate reading of the pressure and tell you if the filter is causing problems. Keep in mind, if the manual states 35PSI as a minimum, anything less is going to cause problems. Also, did you notice if there was any gas in the vacuum hose going to the regulator?

Let me know what you find.

Joe

There is not any gas on the fuel regulator.

That is good. I was thinking maybe it was bad. As far as the pressure test, either you have a partially plugged fuel filter or a pump going bad.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe

I replaced the fuel filter and the psi increased to 35.

That is good. Has it corrected the problem?

No it still stalls, I replaced the fuel pump I think that did it, has not stalled since.

Engine stalls while driving. Occurs intermittently. Has dual tanks, occurs on both. Tried an idle control valve, didn't work. Is it the fuel pumps?, PGM? Electronic ignition?

I question a couple things. First, what you described sounds like a crank sensor. On the other hand, there have been problems where the switch to change tanks has taken fuel from one tank and run it into the other. I believe there is a service bulletin on that problem. You would need to contact a Ford dealer. Has the check engine light ever come on?

No, check engine light not on. The fuel transfer switch seems to transfer between tanks ok, unless there is more to it than what I think. I dont want to have to take it to the dealer if I dont have to. They charge too much here. Was hoping it is something simple.

Is a "crank sensor" an easy find component, easy to check and easy to replace myself?

The crank sensor is located on the front of the engine near the harmonic balancer. You should be able to do it yourself.