Engine is overheating?

Yes, Ihave to believe you have a head or gasket problem especially if you're blowing hoses. A normal cooling system runs around 12 to 14lbs pressure, but a compression leak can boost it up to 100lbs or more.

Thanks James. As a mechanic, what do you suppose the final cost would be to replace head gasket on Durango?

How much $ is always a toughy. Flat rate shows 8 to 10 hours for doing both sides. Not knowing what took the gasket out or cracked the head, I can only guess, but it would be foolish to do only one side. To do only one side shows a labor reduction of only 1 1/2 hours. Parts would be a "headset" which is all the gaskets for the top end of the motor, about $100. If one of the heads is cracked, you'll need a replacement. Used would be about $75-$100. Labor is the biggie, and that depends on where you take it, and how hungry they are. Dealerships are never hungry. I would highly recommend shopping around, get recommendations for other people about a good shop. You can tell which cylinder(s) are leaking by letting it sit overnight. the next day, disable the ignition so it doesn't start and crank the motor a few times then pull the plugs. You should see coolant on the plug tips. Hope this has helped.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. We need to know the code due to check engine light. see link for fuel pressure, also try a security system reset. See links.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Hi SAMANTHA HINOJOSA,

If you decide you would like to conduct the scan yourself here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

I have a question I started looking at my truck. The box where my fuses are and relays . Well my vehicle is missing the radiator fan relay and it is missing transmission relay and my 02 number two relay. is that a bad thing or what do the relays do?

Also, I can get it to start but drive not even a mile and when I stop at a stop sign and press the gas to go it shuts off.

the relays transfer power to the fans and transmission as well as O2 sensor. does this truck shift at all? if the transmission relay is missing there is no power going to the transmission solenoid unless the person who owned it previously put the wrong transmission in and removed the relay so it would work. If the radiator fan relay is missing the fan will not work the truck will certainly run hot if not working or it was removed because fan is bad so it will not go on. I do not see a relay for O2 but a fuse which should be replaced. from your description I would have a mechanic seriously look at this vehicle see if the correct parts are in it and it may cure your overheating as well as some drive-ability issues. also, if truck seems to run okay then clean throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner that may stop the stalling at a stop sign.

My suv is slowly overheating. I went to pulled over and it cooled down quickly. there are no visible leaks that I can see. could it be my thermostat needing to be replaced? Please get back to me with a response. Im in need of an answer. what else could it be if not the thermostat? thank you for your response

Cooling fan? is level good?

just checked the cooling fan is coming on and the levels seem to be fine

Recomend coolant system flush and replace thermostat

i have a 2000 Dodge Durango and it overheats all the time. changed everything i can think of radiator, hoses,water pump, power steering and then some. please tell me what is wrong.

It also miss fires cylinder three and five all the time. please help me solve this problem. we have changed it all and spark plugs about eight times already and have only had the car for about two years now.

Have you changed the thermostat?Also how is the thermal fan clutch?Have you checked the cap rotor and wires?

yes changed the thermostat and the fan clutch and the cap and rotor all brand new.

Have you checked your spark plug wires?Also have you checked your a/c condensor for debris sand dirt etc?Are both the upper and lower radiator hoses getting really hot?

yes just rechanged spark plugs last week and wires. it seems as though before it took a while before it would overheat now it does it in one trip

Do the two cylinders constantly missfire?Does both the upper and lower radiator hoses get really hot?Have you ever used a stop leak in the cooling system?Have you checked to see if the a/c condensor is clogged with sand debris etc?Please answer all my questions its really tiring asking the same questions over because they wernt answered the first time thanks.

yes the two consistanly missfire. no the hoses never feel real hot. i have tried stop leak twice no effect checked the a/c condensor all clear

I use the vehicle for a mail route. The heat hasn't been working (Blow outside temperature air). It's been overheating during the stop and go, but not on straight drives. I've replaced the thermostat, clutch fan, and water pump. What next?

Stop leak clogs flow thru the heater core radiator etc if both the radiator hoses arent getting really hot your not getting flow thru your radiator.Thats why it ls getting too hot.Also are both your heater hoses going into your firewall getting really hot?Are you sure you got the spark plug wires routed cirrectly when you replaced them?

yes i numbered them to make sure is it possible i have a blowen headgasket and if so how would i know for sure

Both of these symptoms can be caused by low coolant level but with the parts you replaced already, at some point the system should have been filled.

The next thing is to feel the hoses when the overheating occurs. If the upper radiator hose is cool, a leaking head gasket might be a suspect. Combustion gases can pool under the thermostat and prevent it from opening. Thermostats have to be hit with hot liquid to open. Hot air won't do it. If the hose is hot, feel the two heater hoses. They should be too hot to hold onto for very long. If they are cool, the heater core is likely plugged. Remove the hoses from the engine, then run water through them from a garden hose. I prefer to not remove them at the heater core because besides limited access, on some cars you run the risk of breaking the solder bond between the pipe and the heater core, then you have an expensive leak.

Do you get hot air inside at highway speed?

If you had a blown headgasket you would have steam out the tail pipe and would be loosing coolant.You should still have flow in the cooling system though.what about the heater hoses are they getting really hot?

There is no heat at highway speed. The top radiator hose is hot. I bypassed the heater core already to eliminate that as a culprit. Just noticed that the bottom hose isnt hot but the thermostat housing that it runs into is. Could that mean anything?

i do have wht looks like white smoke from tailpipe. and no the hoses feel warm

You won't have any hot air inside with the heater core bypassed.

If the upper radiator hose is hot near the radiator end, coolant is circulating. Feel across the radiator to see if there are some cold spots and some hot spots. If there are some of each, parts of the radiator are plugged. Normally that causes the engine to run hot at higher speeds, but sometimes the natural air flow at higher speeds brings the temperature down too. Also look for corroded cooling fins on the radiator. If they crumble when you touch them, it's time to replace the radiator.

If even the heater hoses are only getting warm you have a blockage.Remove the heater hoses and see how good water from a hoses flows thru it?Like i said before using coolant stop leak causes cloggs.

The whole radiator felt cool, even though the top hose was hot. The sides of the radiator are hot but thats it.

I think I'd start with a cooling system flush, then see if the entire top of the radiator is hot.

when i run my a/c if the truck is in motion the air is cold but when i stop at a light or the engine is idle for mor then 5 mins the blows out hot and the truck starts to overheat...what could be causing this?

The AC problem is caused by the engine overheating. Have you tried replacing the thermostat or flushing the radiator? Does it ever overheat when you are moving? If not, chances are the fan clutch is bad and needs replaced.

Let me know.

I have changed the water pump, changed the thermostat, flushed the radiator, but i still have an overheating problem. What do you think would cause this? If it were the head gaskets, wouldn't i see leakage?

Head gaskets aren't a common problem on truck engines, and they often leak coolant into the combustion chamber or combustion gases can go into the cooling system. When that happens, it is possible to see air bubbling in the overflow reservoir and confuse that with boiling coolant. The secret is there will be no steam associated with the bubbling. Leaking head gaskets also usually involve loss of coolant.

Another secret is if you're watching the temperature gauge, does the overheating occur at highway speeds? If it does not, suspect a problem with the thermostatic fan clutch. I've done this, and seen it done, but I don't recommend this for the squeemish: after you're sure the fan spins freely, and the engine is cold, hold onto the fan while a helper starts the engine. It won't be very hard to hold. As the engine warms up, you will feel the clutch starting to tug harder and harder on the fan. Do this at your own risk. I don't want you hunting me down on Halloween night with a roll of toilet paper! It's important to not let go of the fan slowly. It will bang your fingers. Let go real fast or just have your helper stop the engine. I've seen people use a rope too, just don't wind it around your wrist in case of the unlikely event the clutch seizes. Don't use a coat hanger either as it can do damage or injury if it gets launched.

A more sane approach is to listen to the fan. When started from cold, the engine will not overheat for at least a few minutes. As the engine warms up, you should hear the fan noise diminish as the clutch slippage decreases and the fan speeds up.

Another thing to be aware of is overheating can occur if the plastic radiator shroud is missing. Air will bypass the radiator or circulate around so hot air keeps going through it. If the overheating seems worse at highway speeds or in higher outside temperatures, look for rotted fins between the radiator's tubes. That happened to my '88 Grand Caravan many years ago thanks to living in the salt-use capital of the nation, Wisconsin. Anything over 60 mph and 60 degrees caused the temperature gauge to creep up higher than normal. A year later the same thing happened down to 35 degrees. It was due for a new radiator anyhow. I had patched six different leaks due to corrosion!

Another clue is to feel the air from the heater set on high when the overheating occurs. If the heated air is cooler than normal, circulation of the coolant has stopped or slowed. That COULD be a sign of a head gasket, or a broken water pump impeller. That won't be your problem with a new water pump, but it is fairly common on Volkswagens. If the air is really hot, and running the fan on high brings the temperature down, that would also point to cooling fins in the radiator. When my van ran hot, I ran the front and rear heaters. That brought the tempeature down real quickly.

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