No spark from ignition?

Hi,

The ECM or PCM determines which ignition coil should be controlled by means of the signals from the camshaft position sensor which is incorporated in the camshaft and from the crankshaft position sensor which is incorporated in the crankshaft. It also detects the crankshaft position to provide ignition at the most appropriate timing in response to the engine operation conditions.

What I would start with is simply checking to make sure you are getting signals from both sensors I mentioned. If you have an oscilloscope, here are the directions for testing the cam sensor and crank sensor. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_________________________

2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.4L (4G69)
Oscilloscope Patterns and Wave-forms
Vehicle Power-train Management Sensors and Switches - Power-train Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Camshaft Position Sensor Testing and Inspection Oscilloscope Patterns and Wave-forms
OSCILLOSCOPE PATTERNS AND WAVE-FORMS
INSPECTION PROCEDURE USING AN OSCILLOSCOPE

CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR


pic 1

Required Special Tools:
- MB991709: Test Harness
- MB991658: Test Harness
- MB991923: Power Plant ECU Check Harness

Measurement Method
1. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector, and connect the test harness special tool (MB991709) between the separated connector (All terminals should be connected)
2. Connect the oscilloscope probe to camshaft position sensor connector terminal No. 2.


pic 2

3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor intermediate connector, and connect the test harness special tool (MB991658) between the separated connector.
4. Connect the oscilloscope probe to crankshaft position sensor intermediate connector terminal No. 2.

Alternate method


pic 3

1. Disconnect all ECM connectors or PCM connectors. Connect the check harness special tool (MB991923) between the separated connectors.


pic 4

2. Connect the oscilloscope to check harness terminal No. 104. (Check the camshaft position sensor signal wave pattern.)


pic 5


pic 6

3. Connect the oscilloscope to check harness terminal No. 103. (Check the crankshaft position sensor signal wave pattern.)

Wave Pattern Observation Points
1. Check that cycle time becomes shorter when the engine speed increased.

Examples of Abnormal Wave Patterns


pic 7

Example 1

Cause of problem
- Sensor interface malfunction.

Wave pattern characteristics
- Rectangular wave pattern is output even when the engine is not started.


pic 8

Example 2

Cause of problem
- Loose timing belt.
- Abnormality in sensor disc.

Wave pattern characteristics
- Wave pattern is displaced to the left or right.

_________________________________________________________

Here are specific directions for testing the coil and power transistor.

2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.4L (4G69)
Ignition Coil
Vehicle Power-train Management Ignition System Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Ignition Coil
IGNITION COIL
IGNITION COIL CHECK
Check by the following procedure, and replace the coil if there is a malfunction.

PRIMARY COIL AND IGNITION POWER TRANSISTOR CONTINUITY CHECK

NOTE: An analog-type ohmmeter should be used.

NOTE: Connect the negative probe of the ohmmeter to terminal 1.

CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent coil from burning and ignition power transistor from breaking.


pic 9

1. Connect and disconnect 4.5 - 9.0 V battery between terminal No. 2 and No. 3, and observe the ohmmeter whether there is continuity or not.


pic 10

2. If results do not agree with the table, replace the primary coil and ignition power transistor assembly.

SECONDARY COIL CHECK

NOTE: It is impossible to check the secondary coil through the continuity check as a diode is integrated in the secondary coil circuit of this ignition coil. Accordingly, check the secondary coil in the following procedure.

1. Disconnect the ignition coil connector.
2. Remove the ignition coil and install a new spark plug to the ignition coil.
3. Connect the ignition coil connector.
4. Ground the side electrode of the spark plug and crank the engine.
5. Check that spark is produced between the electrodes of the spark plug.
6. If no spark plug is produced, replace the ignition coil with a new one and recheck.
7. If spark is produced with the new ignition coil, replace the old one as it is faulty. If no spark is produced again, the ignition circuit is suspected as faulty. Check the ignition circuit.

_______________________

I noted you are looking for connector info related to the ECM. My manual shows a five connector ECM. The last pics are related to and the 5 connector. It shows terminal voltages.

2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.4L (4G69)
Terminal Voltage Check
Vehicle Power-train Management Relays and Modules - Power-train Management Relays and Modules - Computers and Control Systems Engine Control Module Testing and Inspection Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters Terminal Voltage Check
TERMINAL VOLTAGE CHECK
CHECK AT THE ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECU) OR THE POWER-TRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

1. Disconnect the ECM or the PCM connectors B-18, B-19, B-20, B-21 and B-22, and connect check harness special tool MB991923 between the ECM connectors or the PCM connectors.
2. Measure the voltage between each check harness connector terminal and check harness connector ground terminal (No. 25 or No. 29).

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 1

Pic 11

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 2

pic 12

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 3

pic 13

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 4

pic 14

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 5

pic 15

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 6

pic16

Check Harness Special Tool MB991923 Connector Terminal Arrangement Part 7
pic 17

TERMINAL VOLTAGE CHECK CHART

_______________________-

Pic 18 shows the ECM I have in the manual.

_____________________________

I hope something here is helpful. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

My problem is no spark no injector pulse. I tested my coils and have 12 volts on the lead and -.4 on the signal. I made the dumb move of replacing anything related to spark(ckp,cmp,ecu,fuses and relays checked,harness checked, coolant sensor) Now I found a frayed wire on the right side of the head that runs with the wire going to the O2 sensor, the wire DOES NOT go to the sensor tho. I cannot find where this wire broke from the wires a bare wire wrapped in a copper foil jacket then is wrapped but the plastic around the o2sensor wires. I believe its a ground but dont wanna go putting it anywhere, does anyone know what this wire is or know what my problem is??????????????

Copper foils are usually radio antenna wires, how is the reception? Can you scan for codes? These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

sorry it took so long to reply along with car problems i have computer problems yes the car was scanned and got no codes the wire i was asking about turned out to be a insulator for the crank sensor wires

If thats now fixed, injectors are working?

no I have no injector pulse, but have good fuel pressure to the rail

What you need to make sure of is that the Crank sensor is still good, and the wiring from it to the PCM is now good, if either is faulty, the PCM gets no signal, and you will not get spark. Note the wire colors at the sensor, find them at the PCM and check ohms, you want to see under 5 ohms on each wire, if over that, find the point they are touching bare metal.

im 100% sure its not the wiring, 2 saturdays ago I took the dash out and opened the harness all the way back to the pcm. I found some knicked wires at the connectors, but I replaced all that was exposed. Im gunna check for crank signal cause yea im thinking the same spot. A crank sensor problem is the only thing to cause no spark and no injectors right? I have checked the signal before and i dont think i was doing it correctly, i found a forum telling me to use super small sewing needles and punctor the wire and check the needles for voltage..is this a correct method??

Yes if your testing close to the PCM, to check the sensor just unplug it and meter the sensor terminals while cranking...

Havent reposted in while basicly got fed up with the car and passed it on to a local engine shop now that move wasnt a good one hes had the car a week finally said his modis told him bad crank sensor now he changed that and the timing belt STILL NOTHING now im in the whole with this guy but at the same place my question is...do you know how this sensor communticates with the crank is there a magnet located on the crankshaft? and Do you think somesort of interuption in the wires could cause computers to say bad crank sensor?If would wrapping the crank wires in a foil grounded to the body stop this??

If it has spark at the plugs, crank sensor is OK, if it's no fuel at injectors, no injector pulse, it's the cam sensor, check that...

ok one day i started my car and went for a drive my car almost sounded as if it was surging not running as normal then i died out idle just dropped i tried to start it again had a hard time then it would start shaking and idling crazy and making backfire noises like a harley davidson motorcycle after that you can crank for days car will not turn over. or idle properly and stay on if you do get it to turn over.

Have the vehicle's computer scanned for fault codes (check engine or service engine soon). If there are no codes then it will be a lot more difficult to diagnose. Lets start here and get back to me.

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse gt v6 3.0 and well my car won't spark, it cranks but that's about it. I think it's the ignition distributor, I check it and the rotor was burned I changed it but still no spark, they tell me to change the module but I can't find it, only the whole distributor complete.

Hello,

This sounds like the MFI relay is not working here is a guide to help you confirm and the location of the relay below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

It has a rotor that would be the problem it's activating the ignition turning it over in the ignition system but no spark out of distributor

Thank you for this post, I changed out the relay and it fired right up, I love this site!

At first the car was getting no spark and no fuel, so I used a code reader and showed a bad crank sensor. I replaced it, still didn’t work so I switched the PCM from my parts car and put it in this car. And now it’s just getting no fuel. The fuel pump is new. It’s not receiving power and also the fuel injectors are not getting power. We were able to start it with starter fluid. And now we’re at a stand still.

Hi,

Have you verified the fuel pump relay? Clearly the PCM is not energizing the injectors because if you don't have power to them they share a power feed with a number of other components. Please see the attached diagrams.

Let me know if the relay checks out and we can move on. However, if this is no good then the PCM will not energize the injectors so we need to eliminate it. Thanks

Yeah the fuel pump relay is all good.

Okay. Have you scanned it for codes? We need to find out if the PCM is telling us why it is not turning the fuel on but if not, we need to look into wiring but hopefully we have code because that will make this easier. Thanks

I did show a code (p1610) for an faulty immobilizer. When I switched the pcm I switched the immobilizer and the ignition with it.

Okay. Can I ask how you confirmed there is no fuel so that I don't ask you to do something that you have already done?

Used a test light on the fuel injectors connections and also listened for fuel pump to prime itself and didn’t hear anything.

Okay. So that normally happens when the PCM is not commanding them on. What was the original concern or how did this all start? Was the car sitting for a while? Did you just buy it with no spark and fuel? Was the car running and then just stopped? I am just trying to wrap my head around what COULD have happened so we can start testing those theories rather than just running around any possible cause. Thanks

Car was running fine and then stalled in my driveway. Before this happened, the gauges started to act weird. The temperature gauge goes all the way up to hot every time I turn the car on, even when it’s cold. Also the rpm gauge would jump up and down while driving.

Okay. We need to check the ignition failure sensor. This can prevent the injectors from firing.

As for the other issues with the gauges, that doesn't seem to correlate with this issue. The ECT is a direct feed to the combination meter (cluster) and so is the speed sensor. This would indicate the cluster is the issue but let's try to figure out the no start first and if it fixes the others, great. If not, we can readdress those.

Here is another post that is similar:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/mitsubishi-eclipse-2000-mitsubishi-eclipse-no-pulse-to-fuel-injectors

The ignition failure sensor checks out good.

Okay. What I cannot connect is what would disable the fuel pump and injectors. However, I just thought when you used a test light to see if the injectors were pulsing did you put the clamp end of the test light on ground or the positive battery post? When checking your power wiring at one of the injectors, you test for power with key on and the clamp on negative battery. When testing for control, you need to crank the engine and probe the other wire on the connector with the clamp on positive. The PCM is ground side control and you need to supply power in order to see if the PCM is grounding it.

This is done incorrect all the time so I just want to make sure. If we are getting injector pulses then we are just dealing with a fuel supply issue rather than a larger control issue.

This would make more sense since it is running on starter fluid.

The test light was my friends and I couldn’t get him to come over, so I used different type of probe the lights up green for ground and red for power. All I could get was power and no ground while trying to turn the car over and on the on position.

Okay, just to clarify, when on the red wire of any of the injectors with the key on and not cranking and the other end of the test light on the ground of the battery did it light up?

Then on the other wire of that same connector while cranking and the other end of the test light on the positive post of the battery, did it flash rapidly?

Here is a guide that explains this in more detail:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Okay, I bought the car listed above 5 speed with this no spark issue I didn't get really any details for the kid I bought it from because it had been through several owners since it stopped running. but I was banking on it being crankshaft position sensor. so I tow the car home and when I'm taking it apart I get to where the crank sensor wire goes down between the metal bracket and the engine block I find that the 3 wires have been pinched and split open and where all 3 shorting to each other. so I thought for sure that's where the problem was. but since then I've changed the crank sensor, cam sensor, coil packs plugs, and wires. Still no spark and checked all fuses repeatedly, but I still have no spark. engine just cranks. I hooked up a obd2 and it give a code for bad EGR valve that's it. any ideas of what to try next would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

It either sounds like the wiring still might be messed up or you have a MFI relay that is not working. here is the engine wiring diagrams and a guide to help you check the connection and to help test the relay with the relay location below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Thanks for your answer and diagrams but honestly I've hit a side wall with this no spark issue. I mean I'm not new to working on cars by any means but when it comes to electrical wire chasing issues or relays to figure out the no spark issue I'm just not the guy for that. so anyway this Mitsubishi eclipse is a 2000 2.4 gs manual transmission the engine has good compression in all cylinders. I just can't figure out this spark issue so my new question for you is. I have another 2002 Eclipse 2.4 gs automatic transmission that the engine needs a lot work head gasket, balance shaft belt broke ,has something ticking in the engine anyway that all being said I need a car so is it possible for me to just pull the engine out of the 2000 eclipse gs 2.4 (engine has good compression just no spark) and put the engine in the 2002 eclipse gs 2.4 and (this car runs but needs engine replaced so with swapping engines. my no spark issue should be gone; so swapping the engine out makes sense to me so other than having to use the original intake manifold off the 2002 Eclipse everything else looks to be identical so can I do the swap. I'm really sorry for the long story I was just trying to give as much information of the problem and my ideas of getting a vehicle running. I live in the Pacific Northwest it rains 9 moths out of the year. any input is greatly appreciated. thank you

The no spark will follow the car so a new engine probably won't work. If you have repaired the wiring and the sensor is good with the MFI relay in working order the PCM could have gone bad due to the shorted wiring. Here is how you replace the PCM in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (below). Please run this test and get back to us.

Okay, that's why I want to pull the engine out of the car that has no spark and put it into the car that I know has a good electrical system just has a bad engine but still runs. just horrible do to blown head gasket and broken balance shaft belt. I'm just curious if the engine are even compatible they may the same but I know there are sometimes little things that make them different in some cases.

And how do I actually test the PCM?

If the engine look the same they should work. you can't test the PCM yourself only re-builders can.

Hi,

I sent A/C a couple messages about 2 weeks give or take a couple days. Anyway I have a no spark no start at that time I had changed the crank sensor, cam sensor, both coil packs, both wires, and spark plugs, and still no spark. I wanted to just take the engine out of that car and put it into my other eclipse both are 2000 Mitsubishi eclipse just one is manual and the other is automatic. the car with a 5 speed is the car I can't get spark with and the car that's an automatic the engine in that still runs it just has a blown head gasket and the engine knocks. so I was going to just swap the engines around because I was sure that the computer in the other car is what has failed. with all my trouble shooting and what all I replaced and still no spark. anyway I would rather have the 5 speed than an automatic. so I went and bought and 5 speed same year just it's been wrecked, but I drove it here to my place and it didn't drive bad at all. but it to has a blown head gasket but I only bought it for the wiring harness and computer. so my question being this the computer for both 5 speeds have matching numbers so can I just unplug the one that's bad and put the one out of the new car wrecked car in it or will I have to have it programmed or will I have to take the whole wiring harness and steering column and key?

If the PCM has the same numbers it should be plug and play. please let us know what happens.