Engine stalls

Hi MGD448,

I suggest checking the MAF, TPS and ISC.

possibly throttle posistion sensor

Identical problem about six years ago.I tried all the expert's suggestions until I read about checking the Coolant temperature sensor. It proved intermittent and faulty when checking its resistance when cold and hot. When replaced,( cheap and quick job) the car purred lovingly as everything else had been fixed bar the culprit lol). The car still purrs at 362km. Clearly the sensor was intermittently sending signals to cpu I'm hot I'm cold lean then flood the mixture thus stalling the engine and making it difficult to start. I would check this first and eliminate it, then look at more complex solutions.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken

My car sometimes, not always, will cut completely off when I slow down, or go to take off. This happens when it is warm or cold outside. (not a good thing when you are in traffic)! Local mechanic said to watch the RPM when it happens, but when it does it, it will just shut down completely, and everything goes to zero. HELP PLEASE.

Thanks.

Tell your mechanic to start diagnosis with the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. These two sensors tell the computer the timing and fuel delivery, among other things.

Ok so i was driving my 95 maxima and the engine turned off...so i had a mechanic take a look...he told me i needed my sensors replaced..Coolant sensor/Camshaft/Crankshaft...he only fixed the coolant sensor and the car stopped again on me....yet when i had pepboys check the codes for my check engine light they only said i needed a O2 sensor...so i kinda dont know who to believe..i purchased an O2 sensor and before i buy anymore sensors i wanted to know if the other sensors will cause my car to shut off on me...the lights stay on just the engine turns off.....i appreciate your responses thanks...

Hi jhov2324,

Since the O2 sensor code is shown and you have already bought the item, replace it and reset ECM.

Run the car and see if any other codes comes out and if the problem occurs.

Engine Performance problem
1995 Nissan Maxima 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive

car sputter when step gas wanting too shut off

Oxygen sensor
Catalytic converter
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

My car stalls, sputters and cut off at stop signs or anywhere I stop. I have been researching. I am trying to figure out where the knock sensor, idle air control valve and the throttle sensor are, to check. Spark plugs have been changed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check above link for more information.

Sorry for mistake above. It is for another question that I mistakenly replied to you.

Which engine do you have?

The Throttle body is the part attached to the air hose from air cleaner and requires the hose to be disconnected for cleaning.

1995 Nissan Maxima GLE, 6 cylinder Automatic. Check engine light came on a few weeks back, with 3 codes. Knock Sensor, O2 Sensor, and MAF Sensor. The car has been jumping/shuddering when accelerating, and stalling when coming to a stop. After being told that this was because of the MAF Sensor and its related code, MAF was replaced. Since replacing, the problem seems to be worse. I have heard that this could possibly be related to Fuel Pressure? Or could it simply be a bad MAF Sensor? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Might wanna check the fuel pressure and throttle position sensor-

Engine Performance problem
1995 Nissan Maxima 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

my wifes car will shut down completely when getting off the freeway and pushing the clutch in.you can fire it backup and it will run fine.any ideas to start with?

Try cleaning out the IACV-AAC valve, EGR and PCV valves and the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner CRC

thanx,i'll start there

My engine will abruptly die when slowing down or stopping, like at an intersection or traffic light. This can be after I've already let the car warm up for 15-30 minutes. It has an automatic transmission and is a six cylinder. It's a 1995. It often will continue to do die on me multiple times when I try to restart it, so I have to sit and sit for up to half an hour before I dare try driving again, hoping it won't die the next time I slow down. Help!!

The idling system is not functioning correctly and cleaning the throttle body, IAC and readjusting the idling speed should solve the problem.

Engine Performance problem
1995 Nissan Maxima 6 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 75,000 miles
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The problem I've been having is that while driving, my car suddenly shuts off, and I don't believe it is the battery as it was recently replaced and the engine also goes off. If I take the keys out of the ignition and restart the car, it usually starts again, but there is no warning sign of when it is going to die again. I think I have had this problem before and it may have been related to the alternator? not sure.. but any help would be greatly appreciated as I am now afraid to drive my car anywhere! Thanks anyone!! :]

Check your fuel pressure could be the fuel pump failing and get back with the pressure readings-

Other Category problem
1995 Nissan Maxima Engine Size unknown Wheel Drive Type unknown Manual 174000 miles
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basically when i turn my car on it runs fine!... ususally. then after i'm in the car anywhere from 10 mins to an hour. it will stall out. the only warning sign i get is the car will hesitate. and it's very jerky. then the rpm's just drop. and the car has stalled. it only does it sometimes, but when it does you have to play with it to get it to sart back up. usaually it won't start right back up. i have to let it sit for a while. Also after i get the car back to running most of the time i will come to a stop sign or a red light... and just sitting there will make the car stall again.also after i get it to start i have to speed off. because if i let it drop back to a certain rpm level it will stall when i try to put it in drive.
I know my baby has a lot of milage but i can't let her go yet!!! could you please help me with what the problem is.Thanks!!

[quote:a52c532356="KORochester"]Other Category problem
1995 Nissan Maxima Engine Size unknown Wheel Drive Type unknown Manual 174000 miles
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basically when i turn my car on it runs fine!... ususally. then after i'm in the car anywhere from 10 mins to an hour. it will stall out. the only warning sign i get is the car will hesitate. and it's very jerky. then the rpm's just drop. and the car has stalled. it only does it sometimes, but when it does you have to play with it to get it to sart back up. usaually it won't start right back up. i have to let it sit for a while. Also after i get the car back to running most of the time i will come to a stop sign or a red light... and just sitting there will make the car stall again.also after i get it to start i have to speed off. because if i let it drop back to a certain rpm level it will stall when i try to put it in drive.
I know my baby has a lot of milage but i can't let her go yet!!! could you please help me with what the problem is.Thanks!![/quote:a52c532356] :roll: :lol:

I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima with 260,000 miles. Yes I have gotten my monies worth. The current problem I have is in the mornings when I start the car up, it starts fine. It may be a little high on its rpm. When I put the car into drive or reverse it dies instantly. Why? Thanks Craig

Check the Throttle position/Mass airflow sensor/ and idle air control or speed valve.

Hello,

My maxima shuts off engine randomly at the traffic lights or during slow down in heavy traffic.

I changed the fuel filter and increased idle speed.

The computer at the dealer shows that NOC sensor is red and they can't bypass that warning to see anything beyond it.

NOC sensor is costing $450 to repair.

Is that the culprit for my car stalling? Or are there anythings further I should look for?

Any help appreciated...

thanks,
-murthy

The NOC sensor adjust ignition timing to its most efficient level. It could cause this type of problem. I looked up the cost and labor. Dealer cost should be around 170.00 for the part and 2.9 hours labor to replace it. I don't know what their labor rate is, but it doesn't sound like they are too far off.

Now for potential other problems. It could be a vacuum leak allowing it to die at low RPM's, fuel pressure, crank sensor, ignition timing...

Before doing anything, make sure the ignition timing and idle speed are set correctly. Incorrect settings can cause driveability problems and false trouble codes. The timing, with a manual trans, should be between 13 and 16 degrees BTDC @ 575 to 675 RPM's. That is idleing in neutral. Check that and let me know if it is correct. I realize you set the idle speed but don't know if you checked timing. IF that is good, we'll move on to checking the crank sensor, coil, and fuel pressure.

Let me know what you find, and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

Took my car into a local shop to get an oil change. Haven't gone here before but went due to being recommended by a friend. Car ran perfect before visit. After visit car would die when stopped when in drive, but won't die if stopped in neutral. Also, will not go past 2000 rpm and revs in really short bursts rapidly when taken 2000rpm+ not allowing for acceleration. Car can idle in park without dying, but dies every time its stopped in drive

Sounds as if a vacuum line has veed knocked off, that it back and get them to check this out.

Engine Mechanical problem
1992 Nissan Maxima V12 Front Wheel Drive Automatic

what would cause engine to stop running when driving over potholes or bumps

Do below to find out what's missing fuel or spark and go from there. Could be the timing belt broke off/slipped a notch or 2 throwing the timing off-

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard i

Engine has a small intake leak but other than that engine runs fine

sounds like an electrical fault but guessing it here is almost impossible without seeing and touching it. off the top of my head, make sure all the grounds around the battery and on the block are clean and tight. check the connector at the distributor for good contact.
beyond that, you may need a shop that specializes in intermittent electrical failures.

Roy

Does it cut off only when gas pedal is released?

It cuts off while the gas petal is pressed

Yes, this is an electrical problem and the ignition switch is one of the main causes for such problem.

When engine cuts off, if the dash indicators remains off, the ignition switch would be the prime suspect.

youll need to check the fuel pressure with a gauge.what is the pressure when it quits?fix it so you can see it while driving.

Please help!!!

I have a '97 Nissan Maxima that just started this very dangerous game of the engine cutting off while driving. There have been no perfomance issues to speak of, but yesterday while making a left turn the engine just cut off.

When the engine cut off there was a flicker of the dome light, the radio went dead, and wham, the engine shut off (it was instantaneous). I didn't have any power steering or brakes and I had to coast the car to the side of the road. I noticed that while coasting all of the dash lights came on and stayed on. It definitely seems like somthing electrical just shut the car off and then on! I immediately shifted back into park and restarted the car without any issues. I just don't know when this is going to happen again and that's what makes this scary.

Has anyone experienced anything like this?

Does anyone have any solutions? Are there any recalls or TSBs regarding this?

Please help as this is my wife's car and the primary vehicle that my child drives in!

check the connections at the battery make sure they are not corroded and if they are fine then sit down make sure your sitting down when you call to get the price of the Mass Airflow Sensor yes it really is that expensive but it does cause the vehicle to simply die for no reason . the flicker of the dash lights and then them coming back on and staying on was just because of the key being in the same position as before turning to start. try it they all light up the same way.