Check Engine Light?

Thank you! That is good to hear and I hope that is what was happening.

My check engine light has periodically come on and off. Usually it is after filing with gas. Yesturday my Check Engine Light came on and will now not stop blinking. The car is bucking and it feels like there is no pick up upon acceleration at all. This morning it almost felt like the car was going to stall, but it didnt. Can you help me to let me know what it might be? How expensive, and can I run the car in this condition right now?
Thank you kindly.

i think you need to replace your Intake manifold and air sensor. parts are less than $100 combined. very easy to do yourself.
good luck

i wish you luck.

My problem was a split vacuum hose. There are 3 which basically sit on top of the engine.

Alright so at 1093 miles, the Check Engine light has finally returned. I guess I will bring it in to get it checked out.

sorry to hear that, if you need help understanding the codes you get, look me up.

I got code p1141 (bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit voltage low) I replace the rear o2 sensor. Dissconnected the batt while replace o2 sensor and left door open. check engine light came back on the next day. i took it back to get the code pulled and i got the same p1141 code. help please

Hi there, this is a code for the heater element in the O2 sensor check the plug and the voltage at the sensor.

mark

Hi what would be the correct voltage for the sensor?
Thanks
Aaron

A month ago I had my car inspected. When I got it back from the dealership that evening my check engine light came on. Since it was Friday, I had to wait until Monday to call. The car's performance seemed fine over the weekend. Monday morning I filled the car up with gasoline at the local Getty in town,then called the dealership. They first asked if I didn't tighten the gas cap-to which I replied the problem began Friday evening, I did not put any fuel into the car until that morning. They advised to bring it in. Later they called to advise the problem was my catalytic onverter and I would need to have it replaced, they would need to order one as it isn't a stock item. I told them I would wait until I had enough money for the repair. The check engine light stayed on until I refilled the tank at a Cumberland Farms station using the mid grade gas, then it went off within 10 miles of refueling. I noticed the light stays off as long as the fuel doesn't get below a quarter tank. Then this week I filled again at the Getty station and my Check Engine light came back on and stayed on until I refueld-I allowed the gas to run down to nearly empty then filled at Hess using the mid grade fuel. Again, within 10 miles of topping off my tank the light went out again. Is there really a problem with my catalytic converter or is it a problem associated with the fuel grade which triggers a sensor? Please advise...Thank you, Erica

fuel grade wont trigger the issue. hard to say if your catalytic convertor is bad or not. but it dont sound like that is causing your problem.

Best bet would be to get to a autozone and have them scan the code when the light is on and see what it throws. and post them back to me.

or if you have a copy of the repair order estimate from the dealership they might have a copy of the code on it.

1999 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I have been having problems with my car the check engine light is blinking. it woudnt turn over i got a friend to jump start it started but he took it for a run around the block and the check engne light is blinking. I have no idea what this means my friend said is could just be a sensor but he doesnt know cars well .

Figured I would see if you would have advice before i took it in to a shop and got billed out my bottom for something simple.

Thank you in advance

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine manangement system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

1999 Mazda Protege 5spd. 125,000 KMs Engine light has come on and stayed. Replaced the EGR Valve. Light went out. Week later, came on and stayed. Drove it this way for a couple weeks, then tonight, started real rough and light started flashing. Light flashed all the way to the mechanics'. Any ideas what causes the flashing light, and how serious this would be? Thanks!

Well.......

How good is your mechanic? Why was yor EGR valve replaced? EGR valve are common on those engines....but so are ignition coils. Ahev him check hte coil and wires to see if they are firing properly and find out what the code is before you reply to this

Cosmo

Mazda Tech

Has any one check to see what code is stored in pcm memory.

[quote:e66bc77141="giller2"]1999 Mazda Protege 5spd. 125,000 KMs Engine light has come on and stayed. Replaced the EGR Valve. Light went out. Week later, came on and stayed. Drove it this way for a couple weeks, then tonight, started real rough and light started flashing. Light flashed all the way to the mechanics'. Any ideas what causes the flashing light, and how serious this would be? Thanks![/quote:e66bc77141]

Have it scan and comeback with the code or codes, if its an EGR problem it will fall between these codes P0400-P0408.

Try this tap the EGR while its running rough, if its smooths out, you've found your problem-if not open it up and check thoroughly for excess carbon at the pintle, intake and exhaust manifold sides.if all these checks out,then we'll go somewhere else, this is just the start. But we still need the codes-take it to autozone its free, just be nice to the partmans that way you wont have to buy something.

Daughter took her car to dealer. They diagnosed and found error codes PO171 and PO420. It is running good with no problem other than the light. Last year it was the gas cap.

They are suggesting replacing the O2 sensor, coil, wriing, plugs and even the cat. converter. $2000 woth of work. She is on a budget- what could the problem be and what would be the least costly way to solve the problem. If she does nothing for a few weeks what could result?

Thanks

P0171 and the p0420 codes could be related due to bad sensors or they could be related due to the coil and previous things listed by the part place.

id change the o2 sensors first and see how it goes.

the only thing that will happen is poor gas mileage and poor engine performance.

I had the transmission on my Mazda Protege substantially repaired a few months ago. Shortly after that, the check engine light came on, and the car began to shudder somewhat at idle, and also to shudder regularly when I am between 35 and 40 mph. I brought the car back to the mechanic several times. Each time the engine light would stay off for an hour or two and then return. Recently, the car began shuddering consistently on a longer trip, and the engine block could be seen rocking side-to-side. That was fixed with the replacement of a wire, the name of which escapes me. No explanation has been offered for why the light keeps coming on. A friend suggested that there is a problem with something called the vacuum module, and that would require taking the transmission apart again to get to. Any ideas?

First thing you need to do is have the codes scanned, autozone does it free, then post the codes here. I don't think your car has a vacuum modle, it uses electronic drivetrain controls(solinoids) in the tranny.

Hi :),

Check engine light came on about 4 days ago my daughter called me in a panic! had her friends dad do visual inspection check oil..drove home light turned off w/o actually resetting or anything, Then she was driving to work yesterday and it came on again, this morning I checked her fluids, coolant tank a bit low so I filled it and it was off. Today driving home check engine light came on again?? Seems so strange to me it is coming on and turning off?? I am a single mom and pretty handy with basic mechanics, I changed her thermostat in the summer w no issue, have changed alternators etc in other cars but I do not have a tester and not really money to take to a shop. Any suggestions on where to go next? I read could be MAS air flow, intake hoses?? What do you think??

dont worry yet.take it to most parts stores and they will check them for u. then come back.

there could literaly be hundreds of causes for the light to come on.have the codes read and post them here and we will help you.

Autozone scanned for my daughter P0106. Said it is Map sensor but to check my hoses before I go buy and replace. I asked if its doing damage to drive it, her said no car will run a bit rougher use more gas..Is this something I can change myself? Is there anything specific I should know if I do myself, special tools etc?
Thanks guys for you r help, I look forward to reading your thoughts, advice on this!

Jessica

hi jessica,you are welcome. i beleive that you do not need a map sensor buy most likely have either a vacum line off or broken between the egr valve and the egr boost sensor or possibly clogged egr passages.if you get a manual for you car it will will show you the location of the valve and the hoses.please keep us posted.

The day after getting my condenser replaced, my fiancee and I had driven 85 miles when I noticed the check engine light on. It wasn't safe to stop right there so we stopped at the next exit, but when we did, the car had overheated and radiator fluid was steaming out. When we opened the hood, we found the radiator cap was off, sitting upside down placed next to where it should have been. I had not opened the hood at all from the time I picked it up from the shop until it overheated. Unfortunately, the car had blown a gasket and well over $1000 of damage has been done. The auto shop that replaced our condenser claimed they could not have left the cap off for us to have driven 85 miles. Most every other mechanic I talked to said that on that cool morning with calm continuous travel plus one stop the fluid could have come out slowly, and that the cap very well could have been left off. Now their claim is that all the fluid would have come out during our earlier stop if the radiator cap was off. I admit his new point puzzles me, because I can see that the fluid should have come out at the earlier stop, but we saw nothing. I have a hard time conceding that the cap was blown off between that stop and when it overheated, because there is no damage to the cap or radiator. We heard no bang. There was not very much fluid left in the radiator so the fluid must have been slowly expelled such that we didn't notice it.
Any explanation for why it wouldn't have sent out fluid at the first stop? Could it be that they had never put enough fluid in the car in the first place?
The mechanic wants $800 to fix it now (down from $1200) so I need an explanation one way or the other.

Hi there,

My thoughts are that the cap was left off when the repair was done, i can't imagine a cap blowing off and just landing where you say it did, and i am sure if the cap did blow off you would have heard it, and there would be some damage to the neck of the radiator, with the cap off the temp would rise slowly to the point where it would start to boil, the cap holds pressure in the system and this raises the boiling point of the coolant, as the coolant evaporated away the engine got hotter and hotter until the warning cam on, now keep in mind that a coolant temp sender wont work if there is now water covering the sensor, this may be why your temp gauge did not show high, i feel it is the responsibility of the repairer, but you will have to take this up with him.

mark (mhpautos)

Thank you Mark

But why didn't the radiator fluid come out when we stopped earlier? A state regulator thinks the mechanic may have a good point here. Something isn't adding up because as you say the cap isn't going to lie neatly upside down next to the neck, which is why I wonder if perhaps besides leaving the cap off that perhaps the mechanic had also neglected to refill the radiator.

Hi there,

Just because the cap has been left off wont mean that the coolant will come gushing out straight away, the level may have well been a little low to start with, if there was no coolant in the radiator you would not have got as far as you did, my best guess is low coolant and cap left off.

mark (mhpautos)

I have a 1999 Mazda Protege and the check engine light doesn't come on when the ignition is in the run position. I believe the dealership disabled the check engine light but don't know how to get it to work again.

[quote:493154722e="ttkt15"]I have a 1999 Mazda Protege and the check engine light doesn't come on when the ignition is in the run position. I believe the dealership disabled the check engine light but don't know how to get it to work again.[/quote:493154722e]

I have never heard of a disable function. However on some models, if the MIL is not on like you discribe, the bulb is either burned out, or it may indicate a problem with the PCM itself.
I would try a new bulb first, and if that doesnt fix it, you can always remove a sensor plug and try and induce an engine code to see if it comes on. One thing tho, if you get a code, you will need a way to clear the code.

It may be a burned out bulb but I do have fault codes that come up when the engine is checked but the check engine light isn't ever on.

I have a
Mazda Protege, 2001, 62000miles, 1.6L engine.

Check engine light is on with p0171 error coded-system too lean. Car has poor acceleration, engine roars yet it takes a minute or so for the car to accelerate past 20 mph. And when you take foot off the accelerator, car feels like it is braking. Changed 02 sensor.

Had diagnostic done. Mechanic said everything looked ok except for the fuel system was dirty, and spark plugs may need to be changed. so he cleaned it, however i did not get him to change the plugs.
Have not changed spark plugs yet..could this be the problem?

More than likely your MAF sensor is faultl...v.ery common in the 1.6L motor's

Cosmo...Mazda TEch

The mechanics said the Air flow meter works correctly. Is the Airflow meter same as the MAF?



What could it be?

Hi.,

I have Mazda protégé 1999 engine size 1.5 l and everything seem to run properly just , after some time the cheek engine light coming on and after I restart computer on the car ,the light goes off but after some time goes again on ,and car seems to run ok .So please tell me what to do. Thanks in advance .

Your car's engine management system has a problem and is letting you know by causing the check engine light to come on. Even if the problem is a intermitten one,(as in your cause) the fault code will be stored in the computers memory and can be retreived by using a code scanner as long as the battery hasn't been disconnected. If you don't have one you can go to one of the big chain auto parts store and they will pull the code for you free of charge.

check the connector of oxygen sensors or its circuit.