Timing belt replacement problems?

Piston needs to be all the way up, TDC. The timing marks are designed to line up with the piston in the number one firing position which is all the way up.

That is what I thought but everything I read said that having the key-way at the 12 o'clock position should place number one at TDC.

Am I correct that the piston order is 3 2 1 4?

If that is correct, how do I have number one at TDC and have the key-way @ 12 o'clock?

number one is the first cylinder, the one closest to the timing belt.They are 1, 2, 3, 4. the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2.

I found this guide to help with the timing belt replacement.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mazda/protege/1999

Please run down this guide and report back.

I am trying to change the timing belt. I am at the point where I need to remove the center crankshaft bolt after taking off the lower pulley. With a half inch breaker bar, the trans in gear and the foot brake pushed in, I tried to loosen the bolt. I actually over powered the clutch. I looked for an flywheel inspection plate to try to wedge the ring gear on the flywheel, but couldn't find an inspection plate. I am about to pull the starter motor to gain access to the ring gear, then had the thought that the bolt maybe a reverse thread ......and maybe I am missing something rather simple - any thoughts

Hi there,

This bolt is a standard R/H thread, just very, very tight. You can remove the starter (battery off first) and lock the ring gar, just make sure that the person holding the large screw driver locking the engine has a good purchase, otherwise it will slip out.

Mark (mhpautos)

That bolt was rather tight. I took my air compressor out to my son's house and hooked up my half inch impact driver. I set the air pressure to a 100 lbs giving 350 pounds to twist - off it came :-)

I have a 1997 Protege with the 1.5l engine, auto trans. The car has been jacked up now for ten days for a few reasons, but mainly because I've hit a dead end. I'm trying to remove the crank bolt, which I'm sure I'll be able to do with a large enough cheater and impact socket...but...I can't seem to get the pulley off of the crankshaft. I've removed the four small bolts that hold it in place...I think they do anyway, but the pulley won't budge. I don't want to start pounding on anything before I know how to remove it. Does this pulley require a puller, or is it maybe just rusted/stuck in place? I've done three other Mazda belts on similar engines and had zero problems...I guess I was overdue! Also, is it best to replace the idler/tension rollers and water pump? 96k miles on the car, and I'd like to do the least amount necessary at this point.

No special pulleys needed this is the procedure to removing and replacing the timing belt I would also do replace the water pump as you have every thing out Removal Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Remove right front wheel. Remove right side cover and undercover. Remove drive belts and water pump pulley. Align crankshaft pulley timing mark with cylinder No. 1 at TDC of compression stroke. Hold crankshaft stationary. Remove crankshaft pulley bolts and pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley hub bolt and hub. Remove spark plug wires. Remove valve cover bolts in reverse order of tightening sequence. See Fig. 1 . Remove valve cover. Remove dipstick tube. Remove upper timing belt cover. Support engine with jack. Remove engine mount bracket from timing belt end of engine. If timing belt is to be reused, mark timing belt rotation direction. Ensure timing marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are aligned. See Fig. 2 . Remove lower and middle timing belt covers. Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt, and move tensioner away from belt with spring fully expanded. Remove timing belt.

Position notch on crankshaft sprocket to 12 o'clock position (aligned with mark on oil pump). Align timing marks on camshaft sprocket and crankshaft. See Fig. 2 above . Ensure crankshaft timing mark is at TDC of compression stroke. Install belt around crankshaft sprocket. Working in a counterclockwise direction, route belt around pulleys and camshaft sprocket. Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt, and allow spring to apply tension on belt. Snug tensioner lock bolt. Rotate crankshaft 2 complete turns in direction of normal engine rotation. Ensure timing marks align. Letter "Z" on camshaft pulley and pin on crankshaft pulley boss should face upward. If timing marks are not aligned, remove belt, realign all timing marks, and repeat installation procedure. Check timing belt deflection with 22 lbs. (10 kg) of pressure applied to belt. See Fig. 3 below. Ensure timing belt deflection is .28-.35" (7.0-9.0 mm). Ensure grooves on valve cover are free of oil, water, and dirt. Using new valve cover gasket, install valve cover. Tighten valve cover bolts in sequence. See Fig. 1 above. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

Thanks for the great response...the one area that I'm still a little confused over is, do I need to remove the main crankshaft bolt before removing the pulley, i.e. is that bolt holding the pulley on? That's where I'm stuck, as I have the four pulley bolts off but can't get the pulley to budge, and can't restrain the crankshaft until I get the pulley off...it's a catch-22.

I have always removed center bolt
it can be very difficult to remove with out an impact tool

and after removing the pulley reinstall the center bolt and hand tighten, it will give you a better grip if need to hold crank shaft or turn before removing the belt

Ok thanks. I'll have to find another way to stop the engine from rotating. The book indicated a port that I could access the flexplate but for the life of me I can't find it on this car. Ugggh. I'm ready to button this thing up and just sell it, not sure what to do. My impact has no effect on the crank bolt and just rotates the engine.

is this an interference engine and what is the timing belt interval

I have a 2002 Mazda Protege 5 with 181,000 kms. I had my timing belt changed at 155,000 but I was told by my local Mazda dealership that they are supposed to be replaced every 96,000kms. Mine was way over the recommended schedule, so you should really thinks about getting it done. When doing the timing belt they also replace the water pump. Mine cost about $250 plus the labour.

Place an old socket on top of the bolt and give it couple of good hits with a hammer

I was able to pull the pulley off without removing the crank bolt, which is great. I just used a small pulley puller and off it came. Now I can fit a board to the pulley bolt holes to keep the engine from rotating, and get out that 6' breaker!

thanks

Happy to help

will be here if have any Questions

thank you

How replace timing belt on mazda protege S1.8 Simple Came

Put engine on TDC cylinder #1. remove drive belts, splash shield and front cover. see diagram. loosen tensioner bolt move away from belt and remove belt. replace make sure marks dead on see diagram. tighten belt with tensioner set to 1/2" deflection see diagram. replace cover shield and belts.

1995 Mazda Protege Automatic

How to replace the timing belt on a 95 Mazda Protege 1.8 Lt. Du overhead cam. ? Anything else I should do at the same time?

Engine Performance problem
1995 Mazda Protege Front Wheel Drive Automatic 202000 miles
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How do I set timing marks for cam and crank to install timing belt

What engine is this 1.5L or 1.8L

1.5

Above is for the 1.5Litre

i have a 95 mazad protege, 1.5L, about a year ago my alternater belt broke and my dad tried to fix it, we took it to a place and they fixed it, now about twice a month, one of my belts break, alternater, fan, every belt but the timing belt, no one can seem to find the problem, should i junk the car, it is a nice car for the year and really low miles, but i can sell it if its alway braking, i have a new alternater to, and that dident fix the problem, any ideas?

Hi there,

I would be finding a mechanic who will check the belt alignments correctly, also insist that the belts are not over tightened and the idler pulleys are in good condition, Have the alternator alignment inspected as well. This should be a simple fix and not worth selling the car over.

Mark (mhpautos)

I have a 1997 Mazda Protege LX, 4 cyl. 1.5L engine, about 151,000 miles. I am about to change the timing belt on it, and would like to know what all I need to get. I know I need the belt (of course), a water pump, and a tensioner and idler. Should I also get a camshaft seal or crankshaft seal or both? And what brands would you recommend, because I saw on DIY Auto that I could get a timing belt for under $30 dollars. Thanks a lot!

Well you will need a belt for one. Personally there are two things I don't cheap out on. Oil filter and timing belts. I would go to the dealer for the belt.

As for the tensioner.....you will probably not need it or the idler. They are usually good, so I would hold off on buying that till you know if you need it.

You don't NEED a water pump to do the belt, but it is a good idea.

If you want to change the cam and crank seals...go for it, but use MAZDA parts!

Oh and you will need a rocker cover gasket since you will need to remove the rocker cover.

I only stress using Mazda parts since the parts that you are changing. There is no need to cheap out on an engine part.

Cosmo...Mazda TEch

p.s. don't stretch the spring!

My 1997 Mazda Protege (4 Cylinder/1.5 Engine) has 120K miles on it, and it is about due for the timing belt to be replaced. My question is: What kind of damage would or could be done to the car if the timing belt fails BEFORE I have it replaced? One mechanic told me it would cause no damage (but it would be inconvenient because I would have to have the car towed). Another mechanic told me it would cause major damage to other areas. Which is correct? Can I wait until the timing belt fails before I replace it?

I think the guy who told you major damge...but why risk it? According to the mait schedules, 60,000 mi except MASS and CAL these to require a check at 90,000 and replacement at 105,000!

The 1.5 in not an interference engine, the 1.8 is. Yours will only leave you stranded.

should i replace the timing belt for that many miles looks like it has been replaced one time because water pump has been replaced that i can see because water pump mating surfaces has red permatex on it. and also how many miles can these engine go in a life time. and how do you change timing belt on 1.8 liter single overhead cam

just because water pump was replaced doesnt mean you know when it was. would suggest replacing the timing belt with that many miles and as long as you keep up all the maintenance then engine could last many more miles to come.

Ok heres my prob, I my head gasket blew, I took it upon myself to change it with help of the infamous misleading Haynes Manual. After finishing up with the head, i replaced the timing belt. Now when I start the car there is a loud knocking noise, almost as if the valve and pistons are hitting. However timing marks are accurate and timing was set on the compression stroke, everything appears to be in good shape, I'm scared to start the car again. I've checked everything over and over again. Also when I took the head off I took it to a local shop to get it plained and valve seals replaced, etc. When I got the head back the exhaust camshaft was broken, I took it back to the shop and they replaced it with a new one and that is where the noise seems to be coming from, but I might be wrong. Could anyone help? Riding a bike hasnt been working out for me. Thanks in advance

It is also possible that the one or more of the exhaust valves may have been bent if the head was set down on the mating surface with the cams installed.Does the engine run rough when it is making the noise? Try rotating the engine by hand (plugs out) to see if it has any interference

It seems to work fine, and i've checked the compression, appears to be good. I've also taken the plugs out and I rotated the engine and no sound or interference.

If comp is good, then it may be a sticky valve or follower in the head. Might be looking at tear-down to find the problem

i was afraid of that, but since there is no interference, would it be bad to just drive the car? I know im asking a dumb question. And also no possibility of a diff camshaft being installed?

Im wondering if the cam journals got mived up and the new cam is binding in the head or something to that effect. I cant condone driving it, unless you are ok with it....lol

Ha, i figured out what it was, those caps that sit on top of valves and are pushed down by the camshaft, not sure what they are called, anyway they are either hydraulic or have springs in them and they are worn out. However it was your sticky valve suggestion that gave me the idea to take the camshafts back off. Thanks a lot man!!!