engine stalls intermittently while driving?

this sounds like he same thing that happened to my car i had to replace the crankshaft angle sensor here is show in the diagrams below also this guide can help others

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Well almost $1,000 later I traded in the Jeep while still having intermittment problems. Luckily for me the problem did not occur when I traded it in. After a local good mechanic did not fix my problem I did bring to the "dreaded delaer" I was first told it was the computer hte PCM that was bad, so I had them to change it. Parts and labor of $420. Then before fixing the problem they did tell me that they need to fix the computer before finding out if there is any ohter problem. Once they changed the PCM they then told it was the fuel pump. Which they wanted another $500 for. So I had my mechanic change the fuel for aprox $300 total. After the fuel pump was changed then I had a new code for Camsahft sensor which
I changed myslef form Autozone for $30. To make a long story short the Jeep still has a mind of its own. My mecanic seems to think the dealer never changed the brains. I think there a an intermittent short circuit. The reason I think that is when the battery is reconncted is the cable sparks alot indicating to me short. Good luck.

Did they even try the crankshaft sensor it fixed my car never stalled again.

My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6 cyl has a weird problem my techs can't diagnose. While driving on a daily basis the tachometer and speedometer will dip down occasionally when I hit a pothole or bumpy road. No other gauges are effected. After a while the engine will stall when this happens, usually causing loss of power to the engine, and eventual shutoff of the engine. The check engine light never lights up, and when scanned for codes none exist and none are pending. As a matter of fact when this condition occurs the entire computer is reset to 0 engine starts since last scan. The tests are also showing not ready and no drive cycles completed. The wiring harnesses and connectors visually look OK as far as we can tell, and when testing the 5V and grounds at the terminals while parked things look good at inspection. We suspect somewhere somehow some component is shorting out the 5V but no idea where to start. Or we could be completely off and need your expertise.......

Look for the engine harness damage at the left rear head stud I have seen several rubbed thru and cause this condition ...it is usually poked thru the harness tubing.

Also, check the ground on right side of the block. Remove, clean and reinstall.

Thank you, will have those items inspected today and report back with the findings.

Harness did show signs of wear through tubing, but no sign of wire insulation failing. Did rewrap and protect just in case.

Also replaced the crank sensor as proactive step since they fail so often and it was only 30 dollars.

Really won't know until road tested for a few days

But thanks for the good advice

grand cherokee stalls or dies out. with no codes
1998 and earlier.......
1) Check your connections at the ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) may be called
the PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) on the passenger side firewall.
On 1998 and earlier the 3 plugs sometimes get a bad or loose connection.
It is ususally the one closest to the fender, unplug and spray the connections with a cleaner
and replug. You may even have to wrap a zip tie around the back of the ECU and zip it to
keep the plug in tight..... Take it for a test drive..
2) This may also be the problem... It is going to sound screwy, but there are torx screws
on the 1998 and earlier ECU. Back them out about a 1/3 of a turn. The screws are too long
and are causing some kind of short in the connection. Take it for a test drive.....

3) FOR 1999 AND LATER (this was my problem)
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
THERE WERE NO ENGINE CODES
I tried all the above but no luck...
So far I have (not sure if i remember the prices right)
- replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $45
- cleaned the throttle boddy free
- replaced the throttle position sensor $72
- replaced the idle air control sensor $132
- replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. ...
by the way I did all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
I finally ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage,
and part nbr so your grand cherokee will recognize it. $185 (rebuilt - off ebay)
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM.....
IT HAS BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD

I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Lately it has been stalling out on me when my foot hits the break. I have also been driving around with the malfunction indicator light blinking for a couple months. I brought it to be look at, but the mechanic stated there was nothing he could do becuase the light was not on at the time. He suggested changing the spark plugs and cleaning out the throdal. Could my problem be the cat. converter?

Hi:
The problem could be many things. However, since the light was on, there should be a code saved in the computer. Take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes. Even if the light isn't on, a code could be saved.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

After I start the car, it shuts off within 2 seconds. It did this for about 20 times in a row. On the dashboard a yellow symbol which looked like a key inside a no smoking symbol. We also heard ticking noises from inside the engine or behind the dashboard immediately following the engine shutting off. Could there be something wrong with the security system? It's almost as if it shuts off within 2 seconds to prevent someone from stealing it. Our dealership wants to put in a new battery, spark plugs and give it a 30,000 mile tune up. Is all of that necessary?

Please Advise

TELL them to fix the start problem under the warranty FIRST!
If you still think it needs a tune up after that, bring it back to them at a convienent time.
Your battery isn't that old yet...you don't have that many miles on the car yet...They should be able to get it to start and run without a major tune-up.

That's why they call them stealerships...

I Have a Viper remote start system. Recently It will start and run for about 2 seconds then die. If I let it continue to start, it will do this 4 times. Then when I get in and start it with the key, It will take a couple of seconds to turn over.

If the remote start requires the tach wire signal, check to make sure it's connected and programmed...I don't know as much about these as the specialty shops, but I do know that! This is especially true if the car will start with the key and run OK! Some are tachless systems and need a time limit on cranking...check with the manufactures web site or the local Viper guys! They may help...

Ok well it is covered under warranty. so ill just take it back to the shop. thank you for your time.

I purchased my 04 Jeep in November and all was well until 3 weeks ago. My son called me and said the Jeep stalled out on the interstate so he pulled over. He said the engine stalled and odometer dropped to 20 mph while he was going at least 70. I went to his aid, started the Jeep and it ran fine until last week. It is now stalling out with gauges going crazy. Took to Jeep Service and have driven, seen the problem but do not know what is causing the issue. This morning they called and said that the problem will not come back and that are at a loss.

Suggestions.

this type of thing happened to me while still under warranty bought 2004 jeep new back then. after fighting with arrigo dodge for weeks, they finally found the problem. the two things, needles,did not line up right. something like the airflow and gas flow ???

I have a 2003 jeep G/C 4.0 It shuts off everyonce ina while while driving. the engine light is on. Codes are 0455 and i think 0442. Had my shop look at twice. Pressure tested everything, replaced relays, test fuel pressure and replaced fuel pump relay. Still does it, Will start back up after like a hour of sitting......

Your problem lies in the evaporative control system on those Codes-try have it smoke tested-Also when it stalls don't wait for nothing look for fuel and spark

Also go here for additional information: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

engine stalls at operating temp.

Has the check engine light come on? HAve you checked for vacuum leaks, fuel pump pressure...? Does the car start back up for you when this happens?

Let me know.
Joe

the transmission control relay gets hot , when it cools it clicks then the engine will start. the relay is fine I checked it, I'm guessing there is a short somewhere but I am stumped trying to find what is conected to that cuircit. this all started after I replaced the battery.

Engine problem started with some sputtering at highway speed sometimes stalling. Pulled engine codes p1391 p0460 p0340 p0351. Due to this have replaced crank position sensor cam position sensor coil pack spark plugs and the tps sensor. Engine starts and idles fine and drives ok but now dies after I go wide open throttle from 1st into 2nd and letting off throttle.

do a wiggle test on crank and cam sensors. it may be a bad harness there or poor connections at either end. 351 may be a bad coil so check resistance see If it's ok and check dark green/orange wire to see how much voltage is going there. however a the asd relay must be activated when doing this test so a pro should do it . it can also be a bad connection. the code 460 might be a bad fuel sending unit. as this is a 4.0 some of these wore through harness at the rear stud on head and cause it to ground out so check there if it is worn through if it is repair with connectors, solder and shrink tube.

i have a 2001 grand cherokee. i be driving down the raod and it will die out sometimes it will start right back up others times it wont. i put new plugs and fuel filter on it. the last time it dies i check to see if it had pressure on the fuel rail with my finger and it did. sometimes it will jerk as you are going but wont die out and then be fine. any ideas? one day my wife drove in morning and it was fine an hour later it wouldnt start just crank then 3 hrs later started right up and ran fine for a few days.

Change the Crank Sensor. This should solve this problem. I had the same exact problem with my Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I talked to several area mechanics and they all agreed to change the crank sensor so that's what I did. So far so good been 3 months now with no stalling.

At first I had problems with my jeep over heating. Drove it to auto-zone told us it was the water pump. So we replaced it. Drove fine for two days. Took it to a repair shop told us the thermostat was put in wrong cost us $80 to replace it. Drove fine for another two days. Now the car shakes and at times wont pick up speed fast enough and stalls on us. Last time I drove it and it stalled it took 15 times to get it started again and I wasn't to far from home thank goodness and drove it back. Even before when we were having the over heating problem is would have this hissing screeching noise like that of an old camera flash like the noise they use in the Texas chainsaw massacre movies. It will start right up. I'm afraid to drive it to a place to check for any codes because I'm afraid I wont make it there. I only drove a block away last time I drove it. Please help. What could be wrong with it. Oh the transmission fluid is fine. We drained all the oil that was in it and replaced it, but it still doesn't look like good oil, its not as bad as it looked but still not super clear, still a little brown. Can someone please tell me wheat's the difference between just a Cherokee or a grand Cherokee

the grand Cherokee is more deluxe. unfortunately you'll have to scan for codes and check fuel pressure with agauge. auto parts rent it . then have coolant system pressure checked for an internal lek like a head gasket also check for vacuum leaks like a line off/broken etc. Another thing never believe what an auto parts guy tells you as they have no experience fixing cars they are guessing like you are.

My Jeep Grande Cherokee dies while I am driving. I just picked up my car today from the mechanic. They did some transmission repairs. The torque convertor was bad. I was told a bad torque convertor could cause the car to die. Well that did not fix the problem. The car again died out while I was turning into my office parking lot. Any ideas on what could cause this. An additional note - we recently replaced the radiator, water pump, and battery.

If the engine condition is in top shape it leaves fuel and spark as the problem could be both at the same time.

Turn the ignition on -do you hear the fuel pump?-if not check fuse and fuel pump relay. Fuel pump comes on-do a fuel pressure test and report back your readings so I can further evaluate the fuel system.

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 liter V8 and ~148,000 miles. Towards the beginning of this year, the Jeep developed a problem where it will stall as I come to a stop. It doesn't do it all of the time , but it is becoming more frequent. I previously read that this problem may be due to a faulty camshaft position sensor or even the crankshaft position sensor. I've replaced both sensors, but the problem remains. The vehicle does start back up once it has stalled, but sometimes it takes a few attempts. I initially thought it may be temperature dependent, but it happens regardless of cold or hot ambient conditions. I receive no check engine light when it stalls. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Pull the trouble codes from the engine computer using the "check engine light" Self-Diagnostic method. This will at least give you a guide as to what may be causing the problem. I'm going to "cut/past" how I do it from another post I answered, and unless Jeep has changed the procedure it should still work. I DO recommend getting a HAYNES repair manual from the local parts store for YOUR model, look in the Emission and Engine Control System chapter and read the procedure in that manual for you. Has lots of info. Anyway, this is how I do it, hope it applies to your model:

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee that will do this when I do an on/off sequence using the key, but only if your check engine light is working.
To do this, turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF, then finally ON. (On is the position just before that extra click that starts the jeep) The check engine light will blink the number of the first code digit(count the number of flashes), then pause about 2 seconds and blink the number of the second code digit. If you have more than one error code, the light will pause about 3 or 4 seconds, then blink the first and second digits of that code the same way as before. When the computer is finished blinking "codes". it will flash 5 times, pause, then flash 5 more times to tell you that is the end of the sequence. Post back with what you find out, and someone should be able to answer with more info if you need it...GOOD LUCK!

The Haynes repair manual for my Jeep says the procedure for diagnostic mode is for 1997 and earlier models only. 1998 and later models must have the diagnostic trouble codes extracted using a specialized scan tool. In any case, the manual also says that the PCM will illuminate the check engine or malfunciton indicator lamp when it recognizes a fault in the system and wil remain illuminated until the code is cleared or the PCM no longer detects a malfunction after several consectutive drive cycles. My check engine light has never illuminated during the engine stalling which implies that there are no trouble codes to extract. If no trouble codes exist, what's the next step?

Or it could imply that your check engine light is burned out (it's possible, it's possible...). If you have an Autozone in your area, they will come out with a hand-held scanner and read your OBDII codes for FREE, FREE, FREE! Other places do it, too, just call around. If doing this is possible, try it. Better to have too much info than not enough.
Now, heading back to non-electronic causes, how's your fuel filter? Plugged/dirty? Had a tune up recently?

No codes are present (I took the Jeep to AutoZone and had them check for codes). In regards to a tune-up; I've had the injectors cleaned, new spark plugs, new air filter and an oil change with new oil filter. I was also told that if the problem was the fuel filter, I would have problems while at highway speeds or while accelerating (especially during hard acceleration), but not while idling or coasting to a stop. I'm really not sure what to check next. Your help / advice is very much appreciated.

ok check your fuel pressure at an idle and at higher rpm it should not be less then 44.2 psi

ray5796 -- please keep me informed of your progress. my wife's 2001 with the V8 (and 90k miles) has just started doing this off and on. also unable to get a code or rhyme or reason!

thank you,
brian

also test the Throttle Position Sensor

Problem Fixed! It turned out to be the Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator (all one piece). It was intermittently failing to maintain sufficient pressure during coast down. It was $29.99 at AutoZone and wasn't too terrible to remove / install. Thanks to all those who provided advice.