Engine overheating

did you check grille to ensure its not closed off by leaves restricting air flow to radiator? also make sure the radiator fan(s) are coming on.

This guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run down these guides and report back.

Did you ever get your overheating problem resolved? I have a similar problem. My 2001 s-type overheats, but I can drive the vehicle forever without overheating as long as I have the heater on!!!!????

2003 Jaguar S-Type

My 2003 Jaguar S type is overheating when I drive it for about 15 minutes or more. When I turn off the car the engine is cool and the fan is very loud. I took it to the mechanic and he said that one hose is running hot and the other cold. He is replacing the thermostat and says that is probably the problem. What do you think?

If one hose is hot and other cold that just means the radiator is doing its job so not sure why the mechanic pointed that out..Is there any coolant leakage? If not then a faulty thermostat is the best place to start diagnosing the overheating issue.

Engine Cooling problem V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 143000 miles

Hi,

My 2000 S-Type Jaguar is getting hot randomly. It will get hot, the fan kicks on, and it cools right back down. I can let it idle forever and it will not get hot. But, out of the blue it gets hot. There is also a noticable smell of coolant. I have not seen that it is leaking anywhere. The fluid levels are fine. What is the problem?

Thank you,

Joe

You probably have a coolant leak in the radiator and it evaporates before it hits the ground or the leak is high enough that it looses pressure but not to much coolant.

Here are a couple of guides to help you see whats going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

and if leaking this guide will give you an idea on what the job will be like

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-radiator

Please let us know what happens and upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers

Hey,

It is hot outside, but I have only owned the car for a short while. I can't say that it gets hot more often with the a/c running. It has gotten hot with the a/c running and without the a/c running. This has only been happening for a couple of days. I followed the guides you gave me and sure enough there is leak near the top of the radiator can you give me diagrams for my car?

Thanks for the quick response.

Joe

Yep it looks like you will need to drain the air conditioner and recharge it when completed. Here are some guides for that.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Coolant has a stronger smell when it is hotter, that is probably why you smell it.

Here are the diagrams you need to get going on the repair (below)

Let us know

Hey,

Thank you. I will do the work it and see if it is working properly. Thanks again for your time. I love this site!

Joe

Had my Jag 2000 to 3 fixit shops (2nd was the dealership at which we bought it)

Problem began during a long summer road trip and escalated to burning smell and smoke. Warning sign was that the cooling fan stayed on way too long.

1st diagnosis at local mechanic on trip - coolant levels too low. Fixed.
Problem continued and got worse. Temperatures too high. Burning smell tho fluid level was perfect.

2nd diagnosis - thermostat failure. Fixed/replaced. Problem continued. Worse still. A few days later, emergency lights on dash appeared saying STOP IMMEDIATELY. CAR IN IMMINENT DANGER, (and me 20 miles from anywhere) Car went into LIMP MODE just long enough for me to get it home. (Frightening)

3rd diagnosis. SUCCESS, I hope.
There's a SMALL SENSOR BELOW THE ACCELERATOR that controls the flow of fluid to cool the engine. Replaced that. Much improvement but still not perfect. Think some damage was done during the long wait to identify problem and necessary cooling fluid was withhheld from the engine by the faulty sensor.

I own a 2000 Jag S-type w/ 4.0- recently overheated on a road trip. I have changed thermostat, flushed system, properly bled air from system, even pulled internal parts from old thermostat to ensure coolant flow through engine. Still within 10-15 minutes of idle temperature gage shoots to how and warning come on dash. I do not see water in oil and the car runs perfect. the fan comes on when it should and adjusts as the temp increases. Also, as soon as i shut car off, wait 3-5 minutes and bleed pressure off expantion tank the temp is back to normal operating range. Is this a major issue with the engine or is it possible to save without selling my house to cover repairs? Thanks!

What happens to TEMP driving? with AC on? Has system been flushed? Condensor/radiator free of debris?

Not sure. I know she was driving when it went hot initially.
I have not tried to drive it since it overheats idling. I flushed the engine block and radiator with only little amounts of debris showing. The radiator seemed to have good flow through the radiator itself. But I am puzzled by the fact that relieving the pressure on the expantion tank decreases the temp. Also, as stated I have no thermostat center to restrict water flow at this point. "Hope this helps."

Also, did not try to run AC. Hoping to avoid a costly expense if at all possible.

Question is running hot or faulty temp guage. Does it boil over? have you checked temp of coolant?

two months ago,heater quit heating. this week i noticed the engine started running hot,all the way on the gage.car had set up for two weeks without running.weather down to freezing temperature.
what is wrong? also where is the thermastat located, explain where ,please

thermostat housing is located on engine block at the end of hose from radiator ... check coolant level is good ... check thermostat is good .. check/replace water pump

Definately running hot. Can do a accurate temp check of water this evening if you like.

When my 2000 stype was overheating i replaced a cracked coolant resevior, but more importantly noticed the fans weren't kicking on. I replaced the fuse and problem solved!

Had the water pump replaced about a year ago. Is it possible that it has gone out again? However, there is no water coming from the "weep" hole or any other indication of failure.

BTW, yes it does boil over.

Maybe headgasket leaking exhaust gas into water jacket have a block test done for traces of CO. Can get tester from NAPA for @$40 do it yourself. does top and bottom radiator become firm when run?

Top hose yes, havent felt bottom hose.

So, you do not think its the water pump?

pull top hose and crank water comes out pump good

overheat fan running when starts to overheat high fan comes and stays on have tried bleeding system serval times no change check upper and lower oses dont seem to ave pressure in them untill running hot changd thurmostat new heater valve no change please help

and if radiator is clogged.......bottom hose will be??

from what I gather in your question your high fan comes on an dstays on due to overheat? have coolant system pressure checked for an internal leak like a head gasket. when it does overheat check radiator with engine off and fans disconnected or relays pulled so they won't run and feel radiator for cold spots. if there are any the rad is bad as it shold be same temp allover. it cold be electrical but get that checked first.

Actually, when i had the fill cap off with engine running i didnt see much flow at all. just vapor and some spitting water, but no good flow of water from the fill area on the top of the engine.

That indicitave of head or gasket problem

Ouch. Not what i was hoping to hear.

Pull top hose see if flow do block test were not given up

OK, i will have to do this after i get off work. Am i to pull the hose at the radiator of at the short piece of hose going into the manifold?

I had my shifter plastic section replaced. After I picked up the car from the repair shop and drove for about 40 miles the check transmission light came on. about 10 miniuts latter my engined over heated into the red zone.

The car when started now white smoke comes out the tail pipes. The last time I tryed to start the engine it would not start at all. Is the cooling system controled by the main on board computer that also controles the transmission light. When the transmission was worked on could have a wire been disconected that controles the cooling system somehow? Could the engine overheating be associated with any work done on the transmiaaion?

What type of damage could of been done?

The car has not yet be towed to the shop yet.

Hello .. thanks for the donation .. much appreciated If the technician's only replaced the plastic shifter (inside car)then they have not really touched the transmission or been in the engine compartment ? .. the PCM/ECM (computer) control's the engines cooling fan operation side of the cooling system .. From the description of your fault I would say you have had a major coolant leak or water pump failure whilst driving which has caused the engine to overheat which in turn has caused the transmission to overheat hence the transmission light coming on !! The work you had carried out on the shifter would not afffect the cooling of the car in any way ! although it does seem very strange it occur's directly after picking the vehicle up from the repair center !! Have the vehicle checked by a repair center and repost with the finding's for more information ..it is difficult to predict damage done without looking at the vehicle !! Hope this helps

What is easier don't need off long if pump good know in a nANO sec

Ok, i will be able to check this in about 2 hours.

Ok. I REALLY hope this is a good thing. I took the top hose off at the radiator and started the car.
I didnt get a drop of water from the motor or the radiator. Yes, everything was topped off and there was water in the hose, but when i started the car.........NOTHING! Please, please tell me that is a good sign the water pump is bad. because it is still under warrenty.

Thermostat is out right? so water should have shot out so water pump seems to be at fault. May have dodged a bullett

Yes, thermostat center has been removed. So no flow restrictions are present. Top hose and Manifold were full. No water moved when i started the engine. Called my Jag mechanics this AM. Said he has heard of this in the past but never personally experienced it.
But the pump is indeed still under warrenty.
Thanks for all the troubleshooting help.