DOOR LOCKS UP AND DOWN AND THEN DON'T WORK?

2008 GMC SIERRA
89,000 MILES • 5.3L • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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CONNERMACDONALD
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I have had this issue several times, usually while driving. I will be driving, sometimes at highway speeds and sometimes at residential speeds and without warning, my gauge cluster will "turn off" and "turn on", as in the gauges will drop as if the truck is off then come right back on to where they should be given the driving circumstance. The door locks will lock and unlock over and over. If I shut the truck off while this is occurring and try to start the truck back up, it makes no attempt to even crank as if the battery were dead. After waiting a few minutes, go to try and start the truck again and it starts right up only leaving the radio clock and date reset and the air controls reset to 74° on both driver and passenger controls.

I have also experienced the issue while trying to start the truck. I will attempt to start the truck and get a no crank, turn the key back and then try again and will start. Again, clock/date and air controls reset.

On one occasion, I had drove my truck for about 10 minutes, parked and locked it using the remote, then came back maybe 5 minutes later to realize my remote would not unlock the truck. I tried several times to unlock it using the remote until I gave up and unlocked it with my key manually. As I was getting into my truck after unlocking it, my alarm started going off. Using my remote, hitting the unlock button turned the alarm off. Started the truck and again, clock/date and air controls were reset.

I have taken my truck to a GM dealer but was told they can't do anything unless the problem occurs for them. I have seen provably hundreds of posts exactly like mine with no real clear solution...or I see about 10 different "possible" solutions. I really just need something straight forward so I know what I'll be getting myself into as far as time and money, which both are hard to come by these days!

This is a video of a guy with the exact same problem and was able to catch it on video:

http://youtu.be/ozFSIuHTDMw

As far as the ignition switch goes, I'm concerned that the random issue would have to occur to be able to diagnose whether that was the root cause or not? Since it is so random, it may not do it and may not see a voltage drop in the switch?

I've seen multiple comments/posts about the 175A fuse needing replaced because it will end up arcing, but there are no signs of arcing in my case.
I can't recall for sure, but I would imagine that when I took my truck to the dealer and told them the issue and informed them ahead of time that there are multiple TSBs of the issue, that they would have gone through and checked the fuse and toequed it to the proper specs, as well as checked battery cables and connections and looked for corrosion.

Thanks!
Mar 28, 2014 at 8:30 PM
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HMAC300
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I can't say wha the dealer has or has not done, but from having worked in dealers 15 yrs things haven'tchanged much and they don't eget paid much to look at a tsb. if you happen touse your parking brake that area may be the problem because the tsb's I've read mostly are for improper installation of aftermarket parts. the harness near parking brake which I have pic of where to check as well as those neat little devices the progressive insurance likes to have you plug in to your aldl that screw up the electronics in the vehicle. so if you have one take it out and see if anything changes without seeing this vehicle in action or for any mechanic for that matter it h as to do it while in their possession otherwise you will get answers like we give. We are not machines we are human and relate on our experience and other little things we have picked up through the years. so check the areas where the pics are showing and check fuse 46 underhood for corrosion an dthe fusible links in pic wiggle them around and see if theywill repeat your problem theymay have a strand broken or two just hanging on and causing the problem. I have nothing further to add.
Mar 29, 2014 at 10:48 AM
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CONNERMACDONALD
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Thank you very much for your input and advice. I appreciate your time and expertise!
Mar 29, 2014 at 11:22 AM
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CHRISHUSSEY91
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how do i install electric locks on my 2006 gmc sierra 1500? it has regular locks right now.
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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We only recommend direct fit parts. If the vehicle didn't come with PW, you are going to do more than you want. I have seen, however, aftermarket kits. Check out the parts stores and see if they offer something.
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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PAUL STEELREATH
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I have power windows and locks on my Sierra. Sometimes when the ignition is on, the windows do not roll up or down. The small lights on the door panel go out indicating there is no power to the switches. However, when the ignition is in the acc. position, the windows and locks work fine. I'm thinking there is a problem in the steering column, maybe a bad connection or something. I took the door panel off to check the wiring harnesses, and they seemed to be ok. What do you think?
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Hi Paul Steelreath,

Thank you for the donation.

I woulod lean more towards a faulty ignition switch. Apart from the power windows and door locks, are there any other components that do not work at the same time?
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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PAUL STEELREATH
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When the truck is running, power to all of the door panel controls goes out.This includes the mirrors, locks, and windows. I have noticed when driving at night, when the door panel controls are lit up, these lights tend to go on and off constantly. When the lights are on, everything works fine, but when they flicker off, nothing works. I was thinking it was in the ignition switch too because in the acc. position, everything works fine. However, I haven't tried to locate the problem because I don't have a wiring schematic of the ignition.
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Which model do you have and what is the VIN code ?
1500, 1500 HD, 2500 HD or 3500?
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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PAUL STEELREATH
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I have a 2006 1500 2wd ext cab SLE2. VIN # is 1GTEC19T26Z139163.
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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I have emailed you the ignition power distribution schematics.

Let me know if it is helpful.
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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05SIERRA2500HDCREW
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My 05 Sierra has a problem with the rear door lock actuators. They will lock, but will not unlock. I had the dealer diagnose the problem and they said "Found open circuit in both rear door lock actuators, must replace" So I did, and the problem is not with the actuators, but rather with the electrical wiring. Front driver and passenger works fine. Where do I start?
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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ED_12ROD
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You can start by cheching the wiring by using a circuit l;ight tester if the wiring good at the connector its your actuator not the wiring. Thats the best way to go in that type of situation.
May 23, 2020 at 9:49 AM (Merged)
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TAK
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Electrical problem
2004 GMC Sierra V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi. Im looking for wiring diagrams for Power door lock system.

my problem is when I lock and unlock the door by switch from diver's and passenger's side and remote key all works without rear both side door unlock.

front door lock and unlock works. rear door works for lock but doesn't work unlock.

I check power to rear door lock actuator. one way comes power(lock), but another way doent come power(unlock).

they have 2 wires pink and gray. i checked short.
pick wire doesnt have short. but gray wire has short.

front side doesnt have any short.

so I think the gray wire something wrong but I dont have wiring diagram for door lock.

please some one give me the diagrams for door locks.

I already got wiring diagrams for driver's side door module and passenger side door module. but i need door lock wiring diagrams.

Thank you for your time and help.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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FACTORYJACK
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Do me a favor first, look on your option sticker that should be on the inside of the glove box door. I am looking for option YE9. You make mention of the vehicle having door modules, it looks like only the YE9 option has door modules. If you have YE9, it could be a very simple test. Locate your I/P fuse block, which I believe is under the left side end cap. There are two relays labeled lock and unlock. Swap the two relays. If now the rear doors unlock, and not lock, replace the relay that is now in the lock relay cavity.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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TAK
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yes, i checked relay its works. front door lock and unlock all works. only rear unlock is not working.

i pulled out one connector from fuse box witch is you told me.
from connector to rear door is okay. but i check power from fuse box side connector when i push lock unlock.
lock side i get power from it but i didnt get power from unlock side.

so I guess fuse block is something wrong.
i will check more.

thank you for your time and help
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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FACTORYJACK
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You never stated if you had YE9, I can only guess you do if you are having rear door issues. Here is some schematics. Sorry about the size, it is the best reproduction I can do. Actuators - Crew Cab w/YE9


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/309872_1242066_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/309872_1242065_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/309872_1242063_1.jpg

May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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TAK
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thank you so much. i will try change the fuse block.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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ROBERTV3
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra crew cab and someone broke into the truck by apparently sticking a screwdriver into the lock cylinder on the driver side door. This is the only key lock on the truck. If my keyless entry fails to work I can't get in my truck. The cylinder has now fallen inside the door and I am wondering how difficult it would be to replace it myself. Can you give a basic instructions on how to replace the lock?
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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2CARPRO JACK
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Need to remove the inner door panel. Is the sheetmetal hogged out where they spun the lock in the door? might want to take a look at that as well or the new lock wont work either. The door panel mostly pops on and off.There are a few screws near the door handle and arm rest, the rest should just pop off, start at the bottom so you can look behind the panel to see where th enext spot is to pop it off
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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FACTORYJACK
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If you could ground the tan/black wire as shown at the BCM, it could control the relay as well. If there is no power on the tan and black wire, then there is a problem with the power to, or through the relay.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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ROBERTV3
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Thanks for the quick reply. I have attached a couple of pictures of the damage. If I purchase the lock and door handle assembly at the GMC dealer is relatively easy to install in the door? I don't know exactly what the theives break when they stick the screw driver into the lock cylinder. Great Service!


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/195664_DSC_0003_Large_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/195664_DSC_0008_Large_1.jpg

May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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TAK
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thank you for your help. i changed fuse block and all relay. so now its all fixed. basically i didnt get power to rear unlock from fuse block.
thank you very much.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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2CARPRO JACK
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You will need to remove the inner door panel to replace it,couple of screws and the panel pops off.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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FRAY ZAMORA
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Remote door lock unlocks and locks driver side door sometimes and always locks and unlocks passenger side door. Is there a fix for this problem. Thank You, Fray
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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Sounds like possibly a wiring issue in the umbilical between the door and the A-Pillar or the actuator is failing. It is also possible it is the driver's door relay.
I would look at the wiring first, a broken or breaking wire could be the issue. The actuator would be next. It is inside the door.
May 23, 2020 at 9:50 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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My truck is the k3500(old style). Since I bought it, the electric mirrors don’t work, and the driver side door lock won’t operate from the door switch, and the driver window won’t go up or down at all. The windows for all other doors besides the drivers, go up and down fine from the drivers side controls. The locks work 80% time with the remote key FOB, but 20% of the time you can hear the locks try to lock/unlock, but they won’t fully lock/unlock.. almost like they are getting half power. I changed the door switch cluster, the door actuator, the window motor/regulator, and the mirror switch as well. no effect. I saw the posts about bad grounds and bad wiring through the door hinge area. I am getting 12v on both terminals at the window motor. If I jump 12v on one side and ground the other side it operates. So I ran all new ground wires from all the black wires in the door wiring harness back to a ground bolt on the body. didn’t help
Also there was part of the door harness wiring that had its own plug connector in the body cavity behind the hood release arm that was totally corroded on almost all the terminals. So I cut out the plug and hard wired them (orange,white,black,gray, lt's blue, brown), this is also where I took the black wire and grounded it to the body.
Lastly the courtesy/dome lights don’t work and the ctsy fuse pops as soon as you put it in the fuse panel at the left side of the dash. Without the fuse in, one side is grounded, one side has constant 12v...
I have spent more hours than I care to count trying to figure this out...
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Hello,

This is common when the drivers door ground is bad which is located by the upper left kick panel. here is a wiring diagram so you can see how the system works and the ground location with a guide to help you test it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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Good morning,

Do you have a test light or voltmeter to do some testing at the master switch? I would prefer a voltmeter as I want to see if full voltage is coming as from the truck.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

The other issue is the wiring from the body. There is a rubber boot from the body to the door. Did you open the boot and insect the wires for any being damaged? Very common area of failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

As far as the locks, the fact that they try to work tells me either there is low voltage to them or the rods may be rusty not allowing the new actuators to move freely.

Did you lube the rods for the locks?

Roy

May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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I have both a multi meter and a voltage probe/pen. I actually pulled out the entire wiring harness from the door and just inside the wall behind the hood latch handle. Inspected and only found one suspected wire. It was a white one from the bottom plug on the window/door controls. It didn’t help though. Reinstalled the whole harness and no change at all. Just checked a minute ago and there was also no 12v on the orange wire coming in. I do have 12v on the yellow. Both “circuit breakers” in the little panel with fuses at left side dash have continuity. And I did spray white grease on the rods but no effect. They are all are weak “evenly” when it doesn’t want to work. When it does, they all open and close “strong”. Also this is a Crew cab 4 door.
Really appreciate any help!
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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Okay, you need to go back to the fuse block for the locks. I asked you to check for voltage, not continuity. You need to test voltage on both sides of the fuse.

As far as the windows, what is the voltage to the yellow wire at the switch with the key on?

Roy
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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Voltage is not present on either side where the larger 30a metal fuse goes for the locks at the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.
Voltage is 12.19 for the yellow wire at the plug for the driver window/door controls.
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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Okay, looks like there is a voltage supply issue to the fuse. It is either the fuse box or the connector.

I attached a fuse diagram. The feed for that fuse comes from a 50 amp fuse in the under hood fuse panel.

Roy
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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A little background.

The guy who owned this before me was disabled and had some sort of chair lift in the bed. It was wired in super hokie under the dash and behind the hood latch. There was a loose red wire that came from the battery and didn’t seem to go anywhere so I pulled it out, and there was wiring that went to nowhere with odd relays and a self mounted switch on the dash. I pulled out all the loose wiring I could find that didn’t seem to go anywhere.
So I just doubled checked and it’s just the opposite what I thought. The breaker marked A is on top and the fuse diagram shows it as the pwr acc door locks. It has the 12.19 volts I was getting. The wires coming off the back of it are a thicker red and smaller orange. The breaker below it is breaker B and it is marked as the pwr acc window. It has no voltage on either side and has a thicker brown looking wire and a yellow coming off the back. The red wire is the one I’m getting 12.19v coming in.
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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And to clarify further. I’m getting 12.19v on the yellow wire at the window/door controls and none on the orange. it’s like they were switched somewhere.
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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No, they are not.

Those fuses need to be powered up.

As far as the feed for the orange wire, it comes from the 50 amp fuse. If you have power on the one side and not the other, use a jumper and see if it powers up the orange wire.

Roy
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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So I’m pulling these fuse/breakers out as I test the sockets where they plug into. I don’t see any way to test them while they are plugged in.
So I pulled the 30a pwr accy A breaker out and jumped from Red to orange just like the breaker itself would do. Still no power on the orange wire at the door harness for the window/door locks. The breaker should be fine. I assume it goes to the convenience center after that?..and then to the wiring harness for the drivers door? Seems like something is acting up at the convenience center possibly?
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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You have to get power across the 50 amp breaker first. Once that is restored, then it will power up the other fuse block and allow power to all the components that are controlled by the fuse block.

This is either a wire harness issue of the fuse block itself. Most likely it is a harness issue.

Roy
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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Thanks for your help Roy. I want to make sure we are understanding each other. There is power going through the 30a A breaker on top for the pwr accy that goes to the door locks. I even unscrewed the fuse block so I could test the voltage on the back with the breaker in it. Power Goes thru it, in from the red and goes out the orange wire, which I assume heads to the convenience center. After that there are at least a dozen orange wires that come out of it and can’t tell which one is which. Where I can test the orange wire before it goes into the door wiring harness. There is no voltage on it. This is testing behind the hood latch handle, kind of inside the wall cavity. Again, Before it goes into the door harness.
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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I attached a diagram of the fuse panel for to view so you can check the correct pin number for power.

You either have a bad fuse block or a wiring issue between the fuse block and the door.

Roy
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)
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HVACTECH7
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Those diagrams should be super helpful! Thanks again. I’ll let you know how it goes.
May 23, 2020 at 9:51 AM (Merged)