Truck will not stay running - stall at idle?

Good afternoon,

Can you post some pictures for me to see if the wire and the damage? This guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

truck was running strong then developed a shake at idle until it stalls. Replaced the wires and plugs but no difference. Seems like a vacuum or something. I don't know these motors well but I'm open to suggestions is there an idler control?

Hi lsc14006, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation Clean out the idle air control valve and also clean the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner and see what happens

I cleaned up the Mass Airflow Sensor and replaced the IACV and it fixed the problem for a little while. Then it came back "very rough idling." If I tap on the IACV it idles smoothly, Is it possible that I bought a bad IACV?

Could be try recleaning the passages and the valve again and see what happens-don't work replace it

Engine starts normally then dies. Unplug newly installed MAF and engine runs fine. Fuel pressure is approx 52psi from newly installed fuel pump.

Hello

It sounds like you need a new MAF sensor but to be sure this guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

I just had the engine replaced and the mechanic told me that since the computer had been unhooked for almost 2 weeks that the computer had been completely erased of history and that it would take about 30 miles of driving for it to relearn fuel mixtures, idle settings, driving patterns etc. Well, I have logged about 60 miles and it still won't idle. If you take your foot off the gas the rpms drop right down to below 300 and it stalls. The only way I have been able to drive it and keep it running when I slow down or stop is to left foot brake and keep the rpms between 600 and 1000. Do I just keep driving it because the computer needs more time, is there another way of resetting it, or should I take it back to the mechanic because it's a different problem?

[quote:7e325386b6="justanold"]HELLO! If it didn't do this before the engine swap..take it back it's his screwup. probably a vacuum leak if he's lucky. please get back to me with your results so that all can learn. 8) 8) 8)[/quote:7e325386b6]I took it back to the mechanic who said he knew what it had to be if the computer didn't reset by then. He pulled the idle air control valve and cleaned it up, put it back on. When that didn't fix it he tested it by plugging his machine into the computer which told him that it wasn't working. I went out and bought another one and slapped it on in about two minutes and fired it up and it's running great. Just a note on for anyone who reads this and is interested. A few days after that was fixed I stopped somewhere with my truck and when I went to start it I got that click with no vroom and realized that my starter was deciding to go bad. I found something to tap on it with crawled under and tapped and it started. I just figured another one of those coinsidentals. I didn't have time till the weekend to work on it so when it started great and when it didn't, tap tap. When I called the auto parts place to see if they had one in stock and to confirm that the starter could draw down the battery which I noticed was happening as I was driving it Sat. morning, he said make sure you check the connections as a Ford system has to have everything right to work properly. Also, he said if the battery is run down the alternator no longer charges it back up and to get it charged up first or it would ruin the alternator. End of story, loose wire, battery charged and everything working well. He saved me $133 on the starter and probably an alternator as well.

99 ford ranger with fuel injection, when starting the engine it will go to idle speed and then die out or run very rough at a low rpm. if you try to push the accel. pedal it dies as if no fuel. after about 5 or 10 attempts, if it does start and keep running, all seems OK. ?? can drive around town with no apparent problems. the truck has had plugs and wires replaced a few months back. when this problem started last week I changed the fuel filter, checked and cleaned the EGR valve and the idle air control, and then checked the fuel pressure at the fuel bar, when turning the key to on= psi 55, when running= 62. after a few bad experiences at auto repair garages, I try to do all of my own repairs but this one has me stumped. appreciate the help, Mark

You may have an air or vacuum leak.
When unwanted air gets into the engine, it leans out the mixture air-fuel and the computer responds by sending a signal to enrich the mixture which shuts off the idle bypass circuit.
It could also be a faulty air bypass control motor or plug bypass circuit.

I would plug a scanner to the car and check the PCM even if your MIL is not on. You should check your sensors, make sure they're all working good.

After a 150 mile trip I shut my truck off. When I restarted it, it will turn over but won't hold an idle unless I keep my foot on the gas. I tried it again an hour later and I am seeing the same results. What could be the cause of this. Thank you

check for air restriction in the airfilter housing, and looseness at the throttle cable, also clean the throttle plate and the idle air control valve will neet to be tested, first you can unhook the idle air control valve and see if the car will run

engine dies when started cold, will not idel ,this problem started once in a while, but turn key off seemed to fix it now truck will not idel when cold but is ok warmed up

Check for vacuum leaks
check, clean replace idle air control valve

i have a 1994 ford ranger. when i start it and instantly put it in drive it runs fine. but if i let it sit in park for a few minutes it doesnt want to idle and just shut off. i just replaced fuel filter and hepled a little bit

Is the check engine light coming on at all?

Engine starts, idles rough then shuts off. After a few tries or, if you rev the engine a little, it begins to idle normally. This usually occurs at first start up. Sometimes it starts and idles normally. After that, it idles and drive normally. No codes are showing KOEO and KOER. Cleaned MAP sensor and checked all connections EGR, TPS, IAC sensors.

Suspect the PCM module. Do not have an engine analyzer tool.

Hello,

To me it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Here are a couple of guides that will help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run some tests and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Hi Ken,

Checked for vacuum leaks. None found. Air intake duct is new. Blocked EGR off, no change. Blocked ISC, no change in starting.... On first start up when cold, engine starts, then idles roughly and dies. If you hold a part throttle at start and let the engine rev for a few seconds, it then idles normally. After that, it run, starts and drives the rest of the day.....Seems to me, a vacuum problem would be present all the time? Can this be a computer problem? Could it just need some new plugs and wires? Don't know when it was tuned since I have only had for a few months. On my ALLDATA site, there is mentioned a recall for the stick shift vehicles with this problem. Still scratching my head.
Thanks, Stretch

What about a little 'Love Tap" or two on the IAC when it's acting up?

The Medic

I am wondering if you have a temperature sensor that is a little out of range. Here is a guide to show you want you are in for and the location of the sensor (below).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

I have a 1993 ford ranger with the 2.3 4cyl. engine, i drove it the other day and it started bogging down and eventually died now it is sitting in my yard useless.......It will start every time i try to start it but will only run for 3-5 seconds then it dies again, if i try to give it gas after starting it, it just dies quicker......any ideas on what it may be wrong???

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve that don't work-check the fuel pressure and comeback

Ken, Kept fooling with the ISC valve. Turns out that this was the source of the vacuum/ idle problem. Replaced ISC and it's working okay. Thanks for your help. Stretch

Inbox :: Message
From: klaws53
To: rasmataz
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:32 pm
Subject: fuel pump
I was told that with having a high pressure fuel system, if i took the line loose before the fuel filter, the gas should shoot at least 3 feet from the line..........I took the line loose but the fuel only trickled about 6-8 inches from the line..... does this sound like the fuel pump is bad???

_________________
kyle laws

You need to tie in a fuel pressure gauge-looking at is not a sure sign. Could be weak

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken

Veh ran great. One morning I started it up and it bucked and jerked and had absolutely no power. Tried to run it hard but bogged down and died. Plugs keep fowling and will not idle or stay running. Have replaced t-stat, 3 sets of plugs, ign wires, O2 sensors and egr valve. Re-deploying Soon and would like to have a truck to leave with my family. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked the catalytic converter to make sure it isn't plugged?

Let me know.
Joe

it ideal searches and has high ideal on cold start and than stalls

Clean out the idle air control valve and see what happens

I clean out and than replaced the idle air control valve and I replaced the mass air flow as well and both heat snors one on the thermostat and the other off the intake.still no difference

Go to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

the high idle stops when its warm but than it idle searches the rpm seems to go up and down does this well under load as well could it be the EGR valve and where is it located if there is one

Check right rear corner of the intake manifold near the firewall

I have a 91 Ford ranger that will start and die. If I bounce the gas I can keep it running. The truck will run with the MAF disconnected, but I've replaced this and it still has the same issue. Any ideas?

Check and test the Idle air bypass valve, PCV and EGR valves, BMAP sensor /throttle position sensor

the high idle stops when the truck warms up but than it drops really low and idle searches even well underload,could it be the EGR and is there one on my truck,i didnt find one.

[quote:dc9e1a04ae="rasmataz"]Check and test the Idle air bypass valve, PCV and EGR valves, BMAP sensor /throttle position sensor[/quote:dc9e1a04ae]

Those were my next guesses, I really need a chilton. Maybe I could just carb it, HA! EGR is under the manifold, so I think I will check for that last. Any place online I can get resistance and voltage specs for a 91 ranger?

Check the fuel pressure with a gauge -also test the throttle position sensor-