window will not open

Hi jdcyclone,

Did you check if the master disabling switch had been turned off preventing the other windows from being operated?

Did you try to work the other windows from their respective switches?

You would need to remove the driver door panel to replace the master switch.

My 2005 Odyssey's passenger and rear windows quit working. You hear a click in the drivers side switch when try ing to raise or lower the windows. The driver side works fine. When locking the windows you no longer hear the click. All fuses marked for windows were fine. Any ideas?

Hi inform8ion,

You need to check if the window motors are working. Is power being supplied to the passenger windows. A faulty driver's master switch would cause the other windows to malfunction.

Drivers power window not operating. Clicking is heard inside the control box on the driver door when the switch is moved to the up or down position. New switches installed, new regulator and motor installed, new control box inside the door panel of drivers door replaced. All fuses are good, both sides of the fuses and all fuses in car and under hood have been checked and rechecked. Window goes up and down if power is jumped directly to the motor.

Find the open circuit. That click is probably the relay energizing, so your problem is in either the ground wire or main power wire. Let me know if you need the schematics.

What exactly do I need to check? I have schematics.

Find out where switched power to the window motor is failing. The clicking you hear is the relay activating, so switchING power is good-low current. But you have no motor motion, that means switchED power-high current, is failing somewhere.

There is an electrical box in the drivers door. That's what I hear clicking. It is not the relay that I hear clicking. The relay is actually located behind the passenger side fuse box. Because I'm working by myself I can't tell whether that relay is working or not. I believe it maybe the electronic unit inside the passenger side fuse box. Have you ever heard of such a thing. Is there a way to check it. I pulled the past your side fuse box out and replace the realize I'm going to put it back in tomorrow and see if that helps.

Electrical problem
2004 Honda Odyssey 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

the Pass door electric window does not go up or down. all other windows work. I also checked the window lock to make sure it was not on. Still does not work. We bought it new. Is this a common problem with these vehicles? And what is generally the problem? Is this an easy fix?

Hi doogster428, It could be a blown fuse ( under passenger dash fuse box # 8 ( 20 A).

You said that the regulator and motor are both new, which, unless they aren't properly aligned so the gears mesh, would be my next thought.

Can you get an audio recording of the clicking and upload it for me?

Window goes up and down perfectly if i power them directly. Reinstalled passenger side fuse box with new relays. Same thing. I also noticed the door locks are not working right. I am leaning towards the multi function box in the fuse box.

It definitely sounds like you've either got an open circuit somewhere or a wire that's soon to become an open circuit and requiring more current than the system can supply. Since you can "hotwire" the window to work, this makes sense.

I had my car in the shop to have the AC repaired. They had considerable trouble so they offered to do a complete detail for free for me. Well in that process, the passenger window stopped operating. When I press the window down button on the driver side I can hear a clicking noise on the switch on the passenger side but nothing happens. I'm guess I have a damaged passenger side switch. I didn't notice at the time, but now that it's cooling down, I've noticed that my seat warmers won't come on at all and there is not light appearing on the switch. I checked fuse #4 on the driver's side and even replaced it though it looked perfectly fine. I'm wondering if the heater switch is damaged as well. Anything else for me to do other than take it into a shop?...

Do you have a multi meter to do some testing?You will need one to do some testing.Without testing can't tell what's wrong.Even if I was looking at it I would e testing to figure out the issue.

Yeah, I can get my neighbors tomorrow... Do you think they're at all related or just a coincidence?... Let me know what to test...

It could be a condince until we get into it remove the screw from the passenger switch.Then pop the switch up turn the key in the run position. Then see if the blue wire with a yellow stripe has power with the switch in the up position. Also the blue wire with the white stripe in the down position has power to it at the switch.

I don't detect any power going into either. I believe I'm doing it right, correct me if I'm wrong. I have the "needle" of the voltmeter touching the brass fitting of the blue/white wire going into the switch and then activating the switch.

Yeah your doing it right so the right front window is onop from both switches?

Correct. A lot of forums talk about the problem being the main drivers side switch.

i posted how to check the switch inputs follow the directions I posted.

That should be all the pins in the connector if it isn't let me know which pin numbers your missing.

Ok, I'll try that... any ideas about the seat warmers? Neither light turns on or does it warm the seat. I checked the #4 fuse on the driver's side that supposedly controls it but it is fine.

For the seat heater with the key in the run position at the seat heater relay you should have a 2ohm or less ground to the relay and power at the yellow and black wire the white and green wire and the white and black wire?

Alright... not technical, but I was able to pull a friend's passenger door switch off and put it on mine, worked perfectly... so solved that problem. Still need to look into the seat warmers they are harder to get to.

You can access wires to the seat warmers under the seat most of the seat heater issues I have seen are burned out seat heater elements.

Ok, just seems weird that both of them would go out at the same time... does the seat warmer light still go on if the elements are burned out?...

When trying to roll the passenger side window down from the driver side it won't go down, but it will go up, and it goes up and down when using the passenger side switch.

After studying the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual I did some voltage checks. I checked the voltage in the wires that plug into the passenger side window switch. The wires seem to be getting the proper voltage (DOWN circuit got 11.7 V when rolling the window down, UP circuit got 11.7 V when rolling window up.)

When checking the same wires while using the switch on the driver side, I got the correct voltage when rolling UP but got zero voltage when rolling DOWN. It seems like the down circuit is broken but I can't tell where. Any help would be appreciated.

By the way, this problem happened when I replaced the passenger window motor/regulator (cable was broke). There are two 6-pin connectors in the door and I accidently switched them when plugging them back in. I should have paid more attention to which one went where. Anyway, when I connected the battery up I smelled an electrical burning odor for a minute or so. Nothing worked, so I did some troubleshooting and figured out the connectors were plugged in wrong, switched them back and everything worked fine except the problem I describe above.

Hi GLP, Symptoms indicates a faulty master switch or passenger side switch. Here are procedures for testing the passenger switch. PASSENGER'S WINDOW SWITCH TEST 1. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table. 2. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.

If the switch is ok, then you would have to test the driver door control unit.

Not usually that's why were checking the relay first then check other things.

Thanks for the help. I tested the passenger switch for continuity and it failed. I am going to replace the switch, then I will post the results.

Glad to know you have some results.

Keep me updated.

Have a nice ay.

I replaced the passenger switch and it wasn't the problem. By the way, I tested the old one for continuity as follows: I checked for continuity between the terminal numbers listed in the table that are connected by a line. I did it assuming both the bracketed numbers and non-bracketed numbers and it failed both ways. It failed multiple continuity checks for all 3 positions.

Is there anything else I can test? The next component on the wiring diagram is the Passenger Multiplex Unit. I know it could also be the master switch.

Yesterday the passenger and two back windows in my minivan just decided to stop working. The fuses are all good. When I push the buttons on the driver and passenger side to open/close the windows I get nothing, no noise and no movement in the windows. The drivers side window works just fine. What could be causing this?

Hi sarbaker,

Check if the master switch has been switched off. I have ever encountered such a situation.

If not, you would have to test if the master switch on driver side is faulty.

Your model is 03 so you should used the bracketted numbers instead.

UP = terminal 2 and 4 should have continuity but isolated from 1,3 5,6, which are all connected.

OFF = Only terminal 4 has no continuity in the circuit.

DOWN = Terminal 4 and 6 are connected.

Since the passenger switch did not solve the problem, I would suspect the master switch to be more likely to be the cause. If it is the Multiplex control system, most probably you would not be able to control the passenger door at all from the drive master switch.

Master switch testing procedures are not found in our database so most probably you would need to get a substitute master switch to test.

You can try getting the part from a junk yard to reduce cost.

I replaced the master switch and that didn't solve the problem. With a new master switch and passenger switch installed, the passenger window still won't roll down from the driver side. Do you have any other suggestions?

Are both replaced switches new or used? I would not rule out the possibility of any of them being faulty.

I have emailled some diagnostic files to you. Go through them and see if you can come up with anything. If you do not receive the files, please let me know.

I have resent the updated files and if you have any questions, please post reply here.

I can now view all the Figures in PWCUTest03Odyssey.pdf. I still cannot view the Figures in PWCUInputTest03Odysey.pdf. Maybe that file didn't get updated.

Thanks