Engine loss of power?

Lack of acceleration,chugging,hesitating,bogging etc. This guide will help find it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

1.6 ls non vtec engine honda coupe. failed on emmisions test. results low idle; CO 3.30vol% HC0ppm lamba 0.889, high idle CO 3.89vol% hc 232ppm. took it to a garage and the mechanic said it is putting alot of fuel out the exaust, car is not fitted with a diagionest plug, some werent in that year. the car does not seem to be running that bad but sometimes lacks power, and then surges. please help with any ideas

When was the last major tune-up and last oil change?

Have the catalytic converter/O2 sensor and coolant temperature sensor

I have a 1998 Honda Civic Hatchback DX with 175,000 miles on it and the car works great, but I find that the pick-up lags when the fuel tank is full and picks up when the needle goes down to 80% capacity or less. I believe this is what's explaining the slight differences in my acceleration from one set of days to the next. Is this to be expected? And why?

Boy, right off the top of my head the best explanation that is also the stupidest one is less weight with the lower fuel level. Now there might actually be something to that but it really points to another issue. I would venture that your mileage or fuel efficiency is down a bit. This could be a O2 issue or a timing problem. Last tune-up was how long ago?

I guess what I am getting at is the car is running pretty well but is not giving a full use of the fuel being dumped in to it and thus is failing to give the power it is capable of. Try adding a passenger when the fuel is low and see if the sluggishness returns. But check in to the other suggestions to improve the power.

One more item, think about replacing the air and fuel filters.

Start fine and drives but want to get up to about thirty miles per hour it seems like it loses power gets real sluggish.

at 240,000 miles have you tried replacing the fuel filter? I have found that fuel restriction can be in the fuel tank pump screen or the fuel filter itself.

I have a Honda Civic 1998 with 102,000 miles on it , my check engine light came on and ever since i have problems with accelerating. I will put my foot on the gas and my car will kind of jerk like its trying to get gas but cant, so can anyone give me a idea what this could be thanks. Also had tune up about 5 months ago so I know that shouldnt be the problem.

Why is it that everyone seems to think the check engine light means nothing. It is your computer asking for help. Something that it uses is malfunctioning and this throws everything in to caos. Find the code and get back.

Noises problem 1998 Honda Civic 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 100k miles I wrecked my car, the hood buckled i have a hole in my bumper and under my hood it sounds like my fan is rubbing against my hood and my engine wont rev

What exactly would you like help on? Please be specific so we can assist you!

well the fan is against the exhaust manifold the fenders are bent the hood is bent they have a hole in my bumper cover my left light is loose... how much do you think it will cost me

& what could be the reason why my engine is revving high

I have a 1998 Honda Civic HX 1.6L MFI VTEC-E with 150,000 miles on it. I have had no real problems and done all maintenance as i should. One day it wouldn't start and I had to get a jump so I thought it needed a new battery. I replaced it and I'm still having issues. When the car is idleing, it idles a little low. If i turn the air on it drops a lot more and tries to cut off. I took it to my mechanic and he said he thinks it's a sensor but didn't know how to change it. Any ideas what this could be or what I need to do to fix it. I have a friend who works on cars and I'd like to be able to take it to him and tell him what to fix. Thanks in advance for your help!!!! Brook

[quote:0fead5cf84="sosidegal"]I have a 1998 Honda Civic HX 1.6L MFI VTEC-E with 150,000 miles on it. I have had no real problems and done all maintenance as i should. One day it wouldn't start and I had to get a jump so I thought it needed a new battery. I replaced it and I'm still having issues. When the car is idleing, it idles a little low. If i turn the air on it drops a lot more and tries to cut off. I took it to my mechanic and he said he thinks it's a sensor but didn't know how to change it. Any ideas what this could be or what I need to do to fix it. I have a friend who works on cars and I'd like to be able to take it to him and tell him what to fix. Thanks in advance for your help!!!! Brook[/quote:0fead5cf84]

Find the idle air control valve take it out and clean it and see what happens. When the AC signal is recieved by the computer it tells the IACV to increase engine speed due to the AC load.You can try to adjust minimum air if you wish.

I have a 1998 civic LX 140K with automatic trans,
Just recently, I noticed the engine light come on then seconds after the speedometer went erratic just jumping all over the place and the motor started to bog down (idling up and down and almost chocking).
I replaced the computer with no change and tried to find loose connectors but dont know where to start.
Please Help
Thanks Vince

With the engine light comming on and the erratic way the engine is running I would get the car scanned. Before you do try something disconnect the negative side of the battery, leave it off for about 5 minutes. reconnect it. start the car and drive it. With diconnecting the battery the computer will start resetting itself, most vwehicle now the car has to be driven for a while before the computer will reset itself completly

Engine Performance problem
1998 Honda Civic 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 130.00 miles

My '98 Honda Civic has a very strange problem, mechanics can't figure out.
When it's cold, it usually runs perfectly,but as soon as I start driving for a few minutes, first the rps start jumping up and down out of control, then the car starts losing power when you accelerate,and starts jerking,it never turns off,but it jerks badly, it's not the transmission, because it does the same engine sound when you accelerate with the car parked.
The car sounds fine in idle, when you accelerate is the problem, it has some sort of broken sound coming from below(maybe the catalystic converter?)
Check engine gives codes of 300-304-ign misfire and 1399.
Replaced cables,spark plugs are fine,distributor,timing belt seems fine.
Dont know what to check anymore
I appreciate any help, thanks!

my car does not want to accelerate

Check and retrieve any DTC's in the ECU
-Check ignition and mechanical timing
-Check condition of spark plugs, wires, ignition cap and rotor
-Ensure you are receiving proper fuel pressure
-Make sure you do not have a mechanical induced problem (a bent valve, low compression,etc)

My 1997 Honda Civic doesn't accelerate when I push the throttle down normally (it bogs down). If I push it down very slowly it will accelerate fine. Anybody have any ideas?

[quote:96a971cb17="kevroll"]My 1997 Honda Civic doesn't accelerate when I push the throttle down normally (it bogs down). If I push it down very slowly it will accelerate fine. Anybody have any ideas?[/quote:96a971cb17]

Engine?
Miles?
Manual / AT?

Let us Know on the info..

Car is a 1997 Honda Civic EX, 1.6L 4 cyl, 5 spd, ac, power, 187k mi.

Thanks
Kevin

Hello !!

Start checking the TPS (check the voltage with the wide open throtle)
Then the EGR for carbon build-up (clean it)

And the Maf sensor..

The Mass Air Flow sensor is crucial to the fuel systems operation. This is the sensor that the engine computer uses to measure how much air is entering the engine so that it may properly deliver the proper amount of fuel. A dirty MAF sensor hot wire may cause several problems to include: difficult start, poor acceleration, pinging, rough idling, to name a few. This whole procedure should take you less than ten minutes.



Its the check engine light on?

check them and get back with the results..

I`l get some info on the how to and I`ll post it later if you don`t know how to test the sensors..

BTW I saw that you donate!!
Thanks a lot! we appreciate that!


Good Luck!

Yes, thank you for the info I was thinking of the mass airflow sensor too! And no check engine light...

Kevin

Hey Kevin!
In this case your car uses a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

a MAP sensor simply compares the pressure difference between 2 chambers. one chamber is sealed and used as the reference pressure (usually a vacuum) and the other chamber is connected to the intake manifold (usually by a vacuum hose). when the pressure in the intake manifold changes, this will change the voltage signal going back to the ecu from the MAP. a pressure drop will cause a voltage drop. this voltage is only interpreted as manifold pressure. the ecu will also need to use the signals from the rpm sensor and air temp sensor to calculate air mass, pressure alone is not enough. plus any vacuum leaks on the hose, or indeed any other vacuum leaks on the manifold, will affect this sensor's signal.


After locating the MAP sensor, disconnect its wiring harness.


To test the MAP sensor, run jumper wires between its terminals and wiring harness per the service manual's instructions. Turn the ignition to the ON position and take a voltage reading. Spec for this MAP is about 4.5-5.0 volts.


With the engine running and warmed up, take another voltage reading. It should differ from the non-running number and fluctuate when the engine is revved. If not, verify that the vacuum line isn't damaged or blocked.


If the vacuum line checks out, the sensor is likely faulty. Replace the bad MAP with a new one by connecting the vacuum hose and wiring harness, then securing the sensor to its factory location.



I would check for vacuum leaks and check the sensor good...
________
Let me know how are you doing!


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I Have a 1997 Honda Civic I change the engine head,Plug and oil but my problem for a long while is the car struggles i have to sink the gas pedal for it to move off but it struggles to accelerate for a while then it shoot off any help please

I'll take a look at all that, thanks for all the great info it's really helping me understand fuel injection.

Kevin

Hello again, when I take the voltage reading I am getting nothing. To make sure I'm doing it right do I take the reading from the two terminals of the female plug? And is it left unplugged while taking the reading?? This is what I am doing. And to also be sure the MAP sensor is located on the fuel injector rail yes?

Thanks
Kevin

Forgot to mention that the car runs perfect when cold then bogs down a few minutes after running.

Thanks again,
Kevin

Hello Kevin! How are you been? Well lets continue, i think that its working good when cold because of the cold start valve (extra fuel when cold) here a picture of the MAP sensor:

the complete picture:

I`ll be back with the spec.

i have a honda smx 1997 it keeps on misfiring when im driving speed drops then takes time to pick up even if i press fully on the gas like it loses power then when i go 100km the car gives a eggy smell

Hey Kevin.. You should run "jump" wires to the MAP sensor to be abble to get readings here is the spec:

here is the connector:

The eggy smell indicates a possible fault with the catalytic converter.

As to the misfiring, have you checked the spark plugs and related components, fuel pressure etc?

Sounds like the timing is off. Possible problems: Distributor is off, wires are on wrong, or timing belt jumped some teeth.
Check to see if timing is OK or not. Also check for a plugged or restricted catalytic converter (exhaust).

That helps so much, thank you. I really appreciate this, I will definitely be recommending 2 car pros to everyone!!

Thanks again,
Kevin

[quote:552daee24b="kevroll"]That helps so much, thank you. I really appreciate this, I will definitely be recommending 2 car pros to everyone!!

Thanks again,

Kevin[/quote:552daee24b]


Hey Kevin!

Thank you for choose 2Carpros.

It was a pleasure working for you.

we wish you the best!

Could timing effect the bogging down I am experiencing? I did replace the head on this thing and was thinking I might have the belt off a tooth... I tried the MAP and TPS, nothing...

Thanks
Kevin

[quote:422eb719d4="kevroll"]Could timing effect the bogging down I am experiencing? I did replace the head on this thing and was thinking I might have the belt off a tooth... I tried the MAP and TPS, nothing...

Thanks
Kevin[/quote:422eb719d4]


Hello Kevin!!

Yes... could be the case. remove the timing belt cover (the top cover) without remove something else and check the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket..

Let us know and good Luck!

It was the timing, runs like a top. Thanks for your help.

Kevin

My car is a manual 97 Honda Civic DX with 201000 miles and a 1.6L engine. For the last year or so, I have been experiencing a problem with the engine surging or losing power when driving in the city. At intermittent intervals with the accelerator held constant, the engine begins to bog down and surge, decreasing power and speed until the engine finally "catches" again, violently lurching the car forward. This problem is more common shortly after startup and seems to occur more commonly in 3rd or 4th gear between 25-45 MPH. The vehicle is also getting 20-30% worse gas mileage concurrently with the problem. If I were asked to picture the overall scenario, it seems as though the gas is building up in the engine, flooding it and bogging down the acceleration until the fuel is finally ignited and the car lurches forward.

In the past month, I have installed a new distributor cap with wires, new spark plugs, and had the timing belt changed. These new parts have not helped the problem concerned. The fuel filter was also replaced approximately 30K miles ago when the problem was first noticed, but this also did not eliminate the issue.

I would say that the fuel delivery system is doing its job, but the spark or electrical side is not performing efficiently. I would check the EGR valve and PCV. Then I would look at the plugs. I know you replaced them recently but I suspect they may be fowling. I mention this because the plugs may point to a specific cylinder that is having problems, a bad plug or wire, bad injector, etc.