2000 Honda Accord No communication in the car

2000 HONDA ACCORD
9,500 MILES • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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DD_110588
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The charging indicator test? is that the one? if so No because i dont have a VAT-40 or equivilent tester.

So what exactly do you want me to do to fuse #6? and what voltage are you talking about?

So that one little fuse is in control for all those components thats you listed?
Aug 5, 2010 at 10:48 AM
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KHLOW2008
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There is nothing wrong with fuse # 6 and yes, it is used for so many components.

The alternator charging indicator test does not require any special equipments.

I have sent the files to you again jut in case it was missed out. Let meknow the outcome.
Aug 5, 2010 at 2:53 PM
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DD_110588
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ok this is what i got ive been confusing the test procedures but i did fig 6 and in the end it says to replace/repair the alternator which i already have from the beginning. So now what?
Aug 5, 2010 at 3:19 PM
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KHLOW2008
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This seems to be a fault with the charging indicator circuit and since the test indicates all the wiring are in good order and to replace the alternator, then most likely the alternator is faulty.

As I mentioned earlier, bench test only test the alternator performance, it can pass but the charge indicator ciruit fails because the bench test do not provide any test for it.

Get another alternator to test.
Aug 5, 2010 at 3:33 PM
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DD_110588
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what about the dimli alternator light in the cluster. When i ground the wire that makes the light turn on it makes the light as bright as the other lights.
Aug 5, 2010 at 3:40 PM
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KHLOW2008
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When the alternator chage indicator circuit malfunctions, it can glow dimly and that is the reason the alternator is recomended to be replaced as per the test.
Aug 6, 2010 at 6:55 AM
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DD_110588
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So you think both the original and the rebuilt one where bad from there? Because i still got the original and they both did the same thing
Aug 6, 2010 at 10:40 AM
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KHLOW2008
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It is possible for it to occur. As you have performed all the test outlined and it indicates the alternator is the cause so we shold get a replacement alternator to avoid wasting time on diagnosing and getting nowhere.
Aug 6, 2010 at 10:50 AM
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DD_110588
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and those that also affect it by not charging. Because it still doesnt charge.
Aug 6, 2010 at 10:57 AM
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KHLOW2008
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All the more the alternator is faulty.
Aug 6, 2010 at 11:21 AM
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DD_110588
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ok so before i get to taking the alternator again besides the EDL and the PCM and the #6 15A fuse there is nothing more that is connected to the alternator right?
Aug 6, 2010 at 11:36 AM
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KHLOW2008
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There is the main wire from the battery via fuse box to the alternator main terminal.
Aug 6, 2010 at 1:04 PM
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DD_110588
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its new to. Well ill put the original alternator and do this test again because i honestly dont believe that two good alternators would have the same exact problem. Ill let you know and see what happens.
Aug 6, 2010 at 1:13 PM
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KHLOW2008
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If both alternators are new then the possibility is low bt if it is a rebuilt, I would not discount the possibility.

Keep me updated. I would like to know the actual cause too.
Aug 6, 2010 at 2:08 PM
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DD_110588
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one more thing is there a way to get in the alternator and check it from the inside to maybe see if i could find something?
Aug 6, 2010 at 5:42 PM
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KHLOW2008
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The rectifier can be tested but not the voltage regulator. RECTIFIER Check for continuity in each direction, between the B terminal "A" and P terminals "B", and between the E terminal "C" and P terminals of each diode pair. See Fig. 12. All diodes should have continuity in only one direction. Because the rectifier diodes are designed to allow current to pass in only one direction, and the rectifier is made up of 8 diodes (4 pairs) (6 diodes (3 pairs) for 2000-03 models), you must test each diode in both directions for continuity with an ohmmeter that has diode checking capability: a total of 16 checks (12 checks for 2000-03 models). If any diode is faulty, replace the rectifier assembly (Diodes are not available separately). If all the diodes are OK, go to BRUSHES inspection.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_Rectifier00AccordFig12_1.jpg

Aug 7, 2010 at 6:23 AM
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DD_110588
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hey i did a test for when the alt light on the dash doesnt turn on and your suppose to get the blu/white wire from the alt and ground it and when i do that the light comes out bright but also the lights from the door/trunk hazard turn on as well.
Aug 14, 2010 at 12:55 PM
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KHLOW2008
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The wire is linked to the Driver's Multiplex control unit and grounding it can cause the symptoms described.

Did you try grounding the wire and then only turning the ignition switch on? If yes and the indicators turns off after 2 seconds, then the circuit is ok, if not you might have a fault with the multoplex control unit.

However the hazard lights should not come on.
Aug 14, 2010 at 3:47 PM
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DD_110588
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No the hazard lights dont turn on just the lights that tell you when you have you doors and trunk open turn on. Ill tyr that and ill let you know.
Aug 16, 2010 at 9:31 AM
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DD_110588
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isnt the multiplex unit the ecm/ecu? the light those not turn off when you put the ignition after i grounded the white and blue wire.
Aug 27, 2010 at 4:28 PM
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KHLOW2008
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No, the Multiplex Control System is not the ECU/PCM. It is more commonly known as BCM ( Body Control Module ) and would not trigger any codes on the CEL.
Aug 28, 2010 at 12:12 PM
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DD_110588
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ok well i did what you told me and when i ground the blue & white wire the light gets brighter but it does not shut off when i put the ignition on
Aug 28, 2010 at 1:32 PM
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KHLOW2008
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If it is the door/safety indicators lights that are not turning off, then the Multiplex control unit has a fault. If it is the alternator charge light that stays on brighter, then it is not a problem with the alternator circuit.

If the charge indicator light is not fully bright when ignition switch is turned on and becomes fully bright after disconnecting and grounding the circuit, the alternator is the cause of it. The voltage regulator circuit is bad.
Aug 28, 2010 at 2:18 PM
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DD_110588
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so where is the voltage regulator circuit at?
Aug 29, 2010 at 12:43 PM
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KHLOW2008
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The voltage regulator in inside the alternator.
Aug 29, 2010 at 1:12 PM
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DD_110588
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so what now then?
Aug 30, 2010 at 9:29 AM
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KHLOW2008
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I have been telling you to get the alternator replaced to test but you have refused to do so.

What else do you expect me to tell you ?
Aug 30, 2010 at 10:34 AM
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DD_110588
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ok ill change and ill let you know
Aug 30, 2010 at 12:08 PM
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DD_110588
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hey i put the original one back on and ive never noticed this but when i put the ignition on all the light come on even the battery one and after a few seconds the battery light starts fadding away slowly.
Aug 31, 2010 at 3:43 PM
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KHLOW2008
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After starting if the charge indicator light remains on dimly. the alternator regulator circuit is bad.

Get another alternator to test. DO NOT reuse any of those you have tried.
Sep 1, 2010 at 8:35 AM
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DD_110588
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The old alternator was bad and the one i bought was good. But i figured it out, there was a bad connection between the harness from the engine to the one that goes in the dash and it was the black and yellow connection.
Mar 16, 2011 at 7:43 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Black/Yellow wire is the main ignition switch wire for power supply to all electrical components. This means your test for continuity and power supply for the charging system was not done correctly.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.

Mar 17, 2011 at 7:17 PM