2000 Honda Accord No communication in the car

2000 HONDA ACCORD
9,500 MILES • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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DD_110588
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To begin yes my car really has 9500 miles its been sitting for about 7 some years and im trying to get it running again and the problem im having is that i had the car running and the main battery fuse the 100A inside the engine compartment went out and ever since that ive been having problems with the alternator so i when ahead a bought a new one and its not charging and the battery light in the speedometer doesnt shut of but the light looks a little faded compared to the rest of the lights in the speedometer. Then i hooked a scanner to it and it only comes out with a transmission code which was fauty solenoid b which im still trying to fix. Then my other problem is that i unhooked alot of different plugs to see if anything came out in the scanner and nothing, no codes, so i changed the ECU thinking that was it because the main 2 wires that come from the alternator go to the ecu and its still the same. I also bought all 3 of the fuse boxes and its still the same no signal for the engine and ive almost gotten to the point to were im going to buy a new engine harness to see if thats it but i really dont want to because its expensive. So as you can see i need help badly so any help would be appreciated thanks.
Jun 28, 2010 at 4:20 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Hi dd_110588,

Thank you for the donation.

There is a possibility some wires are broken causing the condition. I have emailed the diagnostic procedures to you. Let me know if you do not receive them.
Jun 30, 2010 at 1:12 PM
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DD_110588
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well im having a little trouble on the fig. 7 step10 and it says to check for continuity and the problem that im having is that i have a actron tester like the ones that they sell at your local auto parts store and it says that when checking for continuity the device will beap when the circiute is closed or shorted so when i check the white and green wire for it, it always beaps even when i put it on the other pin so thats where im having problems right now.
Jul 20, 2010 at 5:09 PM
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KHLOW2008
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I believe you are referring to Fig 8 and not Fig 7.

Did you unplug the PCM and alternator coupler while performing tests?

I would suggest using the resistance range to test instead of the beeper.
Jul 21, 2010 at 10:43 AM
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DD_110588
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ok ill try it but while i do that do you have any idea of whats going on with the rest of the car? the engine doesnt seem to be comunnicating with the ecm.
Jul 21, 2010 at 12:00 PM
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KHLOW2008
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If the engine is not communicating with the ECM, you would not be able to start the engine.

Why do you say so?
Jul 21, 2010 at 12:21 PM
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DD_110588
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i ask because i have a scanner and i unhook a couple of plugs just to make sure its communicating and it doesnt seem to be coming out with any codes so i though something might be wrong
Jul 21, 2010 at 12:24 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Some sensors requires a two trip malfunction to trigger any codes. Others would only indicate after the engine is started.
Jul 21, 2010 at 12:29 PM
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DD_110588
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well i just did the resistance check on the white and green wire and if i was looking for a number i got 0.03. so is that good or bad?
Jul 21, 2010 at 1:19 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Resistance check of 0.03 ohms means the continuity is good.
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:02 PM
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DD_110588
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ok if thats good and the alternator is good than what can it be?
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:08 PM
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KHLOW2008
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A faulty PCM can cause no charging.

With alternator pin # 2 ( White/Green wire ) removed and not conneted to system, start engine and test the charging.
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:15 PM
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DD_110588
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ok whats pcm? and how do i remove the pin without having to cut it off?
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:27 PM
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KHLOW2008
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PCM is the engine computer.

To remove the wire without cutting it off, at the connector, there is a white plastic inside the connector. Use a long nose plier or sharp object to gently pry it out.

With a sharp object, pry the locking tab inside the connector for the pin to be removed and you can pull the wire out from behiind.
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:41 PM
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DD_110588
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ok, but i replaced the engine computer for the same reason. I thought the computer was the problem, so i replaced it.
Jul 21, 2010 at 3:16 PM
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KHLOW2008
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When testing the charging, were the battery mast voltage checkd?
Is the Charge indicator light showing ?
Jul 21, 2010 at 3:30 PM
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DD_110588
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well the light in the speedo is on and it turns of when i unhook the alternator cable, but the light looks faded like if some sort of ground wire not connected or it was missing something. And then all the other lights are all nice and shinny.
Jul 21, 2010 at 3:34 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Are the symptoms exactly as before the alternator change?

The charge indicator light is linked to the Multiplex System and that should be checked as well.
Jul 21, 2010 at 3:55 PM
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DD_110588
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i first changed the alternator and it keep doing the samething, so thats when i decided to buy a new ecm or pcm and its still doing the same. So how can i check this Multiplex System? Now this all started when the main 120A battery got blown up, and i know it doesn't use a 120A so thats when i also changed the engine fuse box to the right one, and now it has the 100A fuse.
Jul 21, 2010 at 4:12 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Let us review the problem to be sure we are on the same frequency.

When engine is running:

Charge indicator in dash is dimly lit?
What is charging voltage between battery post?
What is charging voltage between alternator main terminal and body ground?
All wires were tested to be good?

Alternator is new,

Did the 120 A fuse blow before or after alternator replacement?
Did main fuse blow because of reverse jumping of battery?

Have you check all the ground circuit connections?
Jul 22, 2010 at 7:02 AM
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DD_110588
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yes the light is dimli lit when the engine is on, and ill get back on the other ones. The 120V fuse blew before the alternator was changed. the car was runing and all of a sudden i heard the fuse blow up anf the car shut down and that is where it all started.

Not sure if i checked all the ground circuit connections, but can you send me a diagram of where there at so i can check them(that is if you have one)
Jul 22, 2010 at 9:37 AM
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KHLOW2008
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I only have schematics with description of where the locations are and have emailed them to you.
Jul 22, 2010 at 10:20 AM
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DD_110588
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let me ask you this what does a ground wire have to do with what happend when that 120A fuse blew up? I mean the car was running before that happend so it shouldnt be a ground wire, dont you think?
Jul 29, 2010 at 10:43 AM
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KHLOW2008
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When the battery was installed reversely, the ground wire would heat up and it could melt or break before the 12o A fuse blows.After the 120 A fuse blows, if the power was still not disconnected, power would continue to run through the ground cable through other components and this can cause it to be damaged.

There could be many other components that have been damaged as the original fuse was supposed to be 100 A and that would blow faster than a 120 A. The delay in the 120 A blowing would cause more damage.
Jul 29, 2010 at 10:57 AM
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DD_110588
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but remember i told you that the fuse blew up while the car was running, so it couldnt be that the battery was put wrong.
Jul 29, 2010 at 11:03 AM
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KHLOW2008
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Sorry for the error.

Definitely something shorted causing the 120A fuse to blow but before it occurred, the shorting had csused some damage to some wires somewhere and since problem seems like insufficient ground, they should be checked first.

You have replaced a lot of components and none of them seems to have any bearing on the problem.

You mentioned the alternator was new, it is OEM ?

Have you tried using another alternator to test?
Jul 29, 2010 at 11:13 AM
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DD_110588
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ok that makes better sense ill keep checking ground wires.
The alternator is new but its not oem it a rebuilt one, but when i first put the new one on it did the same so i took it to another place to have it checked and it came out as good.
Jul 29, 2010 at 11:50 AM
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KHLOW2008
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I would not rule out the rebuilt alternator as the cause. I don't trust rebuilts as my personal experience is 3 rebuilts that did not work when installed.

Get the rebuilt people to give you another alternator to test.
Jul 29, 2010 at 11:55 AM
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DD_110588
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well i got it at autozone and they tested it twice first when i bought it and the second time after i took it of the car again
Jul 29, 2010 at 11:58 AM
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KHLOW2008
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The bench test would indicate if it is charging but not if the indicator lights would come on dimly.

Alternators can charge correctly but the indicator circuit could be faulty.
Jul 29, 2010 at 12:11 PM
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DD_110588
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is there anyway for me to check that?
Jul 29, 2010 at 12:22 PM
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KHLOW2008
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I have sent you the test procedures.
Jul 29, 2010 at 12:51 PM
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DD_110588
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what if i just change the engine harness you think that would work?
Plus i dont think the alternator is the case because i put another one and it did the same thing so now i know for a fact that the alternator is not it.
Aug 3, 2010 at 3:29 PM
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KHLOW2008
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It is never a good idea to replace any item without understanding what is wrong.

Go through the test that I sent to you and see if you can find anything.
Aug 3, 2010 at 4:40 PM
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DD_110588
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the one for the alternator or the ground wire one?
Aug 3, 2010 at 4:43 PM
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DD_110588
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the black and yellow wire has .44 volts.

Also a week or two ago you sent me the same charging test but with more pages, about six to be exact. So when i do the first test it takes me to "fig.7: Alternator & Regulator Circuit Test" and then at the bottom is says "For alternator control system test, see fig.8 for 2.3L or Fig.9 for 3.0L" and it looks to me (but i might be mistaken) but im missing Fig.9 for my 3.0L, unless fig.8 is the same one but the plug on the 2.3L is square and the 3.0L is square with round edges.
Aug 3, 2010 at 5:03 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Sorry for the error. I have sent the test for 3.0 to you.

You mentioned the Black/Yellow wire has 0.44 volts, it should be battery voltage. Seems the power supply for this wire is insufficient. It could be an open between fuse # 6 ( 15 A) to the alternator. Check the junction box below right side of dash to see if the connection is bad.
Aug 4, 2010 at 11:49 AM
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DD_110588
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usually what should be the voltage on the black and yellow wire?
Aug 4, 2010 at 12:28 PM
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KHLOW2008
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It should be battery voltage, ie more than 12 volts.
Aug 4, 2010 at 12:54 PM
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DD_110588
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i think i made a mistake when i tested the voltage on that wire. Well this is what i got when i put the red wire from my volt tester on the positive of the battery which i did the opposite the first time I got 11.60V on the blk & Yellow wire. The first time i put the black one on the negative side of the battery. So with that now being right were are we at now?

Also i took the speedometer of the car because i wanted to see which wire was the one that send the signal to turn the battery light one. So i used a test light one a blk & yellow wire and the light for the battery get brighter so im giving in ground right? Also when the light gets brighter the open door and open trunk lights come on as well. I followed it down into the passenger fuse box under the dash and it had power. I also discovered a ground wire that wasnt hooked up but when i hooked it up it still did the same.

I'm a little confused when you told me to check the number 6 15A fuse on passenger side but its a 20A fuse and its says (LAF HEATER), I went to the driver side and there is a 15A fuse but its says ECU Cruise Control. So im a little lost right now.
Aug 4, 2010 at 3:59 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Did you perform test on Fig 6 and what were the results?

Fuse # 6 is if the voltage is wrong as initially stated.

The driver side fuse is the correct one. Apart from the alternator, cruise control, ELD, engine mount, EVAP and a few others.
Aug 5, 2010 at 8:46 AM