Check engine light

--------------------------------------------------------------------------VTEC pressure switch or VTEC solenoid problem.

while driving on the highway after stopping to get gas
futher up the highway the check engine light started to flash
the car sputter and lost compression
we stopped checked everything oil fluids all looked good waited for 5 mins started on the way againg but the light keeps flashing and seem to loose compression on the hill ????

First thing you need to do is have the codes read, Post the results with the code number(s). Even if the service engine light is not on, there should be freeze frame data stored.
If it won't make it, buy a cheap scanner, they can be had for 30-40 dollars, a good investment, since they cover all cars sold in the USA from 96 on...
If the light is blinking, it means possible damage to the Catalytic converter...service it right away!
Losing power on a hill could be a sign of the fuel pump going bad...
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If the CEL is flashing the engine is misfiring.

That's pretty good! What was the code?

After numerous repairs done by Great Bear my check engine light returns after repairs.
1-Changed entire EVAP components- purge value-egr value-canister filter-auxiliary filter-evap value valve set.
2-Map sensor
3-Throttle body assembly
4-Clutch pressure switch
The check engine light was reset by Honda while attempting to check car and no repairs done told to return my car back to the garage that did the repairs (Great Bear). And within half hour after Honda reset the check engine light, I took my car to a local repair shop for inspection, it passed.
The check engine light returned about half hour later of driving. What going on? What codes you asked? they tell me the emission and all the codes from each repair and then some more different codes. This car has only 34000 miles in mint condition. Honda refuse to help me because I had the work done, not by Honda. I was going to pay to have the work done over but all they did was keep my car for five days and told me to take my car back. I will pick up a code reader and get back to you.

do we know what code came back? try to find out and get back to us

[quote:c3a5cfb3d7="mastertechtim"]do we know what code came back? try to find out and get back to us[/quote:c3a5cfb3d7]
The code that came up is P1457.

I waited, still no answer to my question.
Anyway the problem was the three hoses connected to the evap canister, one was opened. Capped it off problem solved.

The Check Engine Light was specifying that I needed a new EGR valve. After replacing the valve myself, do I need to have the code reset by the dealer or repair shop to turn the warning light off?

Try erasing the code with a scantool or take it to Autozone and have them clear it-

You can erase the code by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 second. Make sure you have the radio code.

My check engine light came on last year and Honda ended up replacing the catalytic converter under warranty. Then it came on again about a month ago and my research indicated it could be another emissions systems component, the EGR valve. I am wondering what else it could be and if it could even be that I need a new muffler?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Scott Houran

2006 Honda accord V6s no longer have an EGR valve they use a Variable valve timing module that is in the place of an EGR valve. take your car to Autozone and/or Kragen have them run the ODB-II diagnostic tool on your vehicle to pinpoint and rule what itcan't be.
Oh, Yea, that V-TEC soleniod can go bad too. You'll find out what is actually wrong when you take it to get it diag. More than likely it is the O2 sensors that went bad in this case I think there are 4 of them in your car one on each side of the engine where the exhaust manifold are and two more under your car going from each downpipe to the each of the catalytic converters for each corresponding side of your car.

I have a 2000 Accord V6 not a 2006 and I am positive it does have an EGR valve. There are several posts on the net stating that a bad EGR valve can cause the check engine light to come on in this car.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 200k miles

Dear 2Carpros,
I have a little situation here, my car when i start in the morning it is fine and i start to drive on a cruzing speed 80K/h, as soon as the car reaches the normal temperature the Engine lights get on and the gear shifting becomes a nightmare.
Then i have to turn of the car and turn on again and the light is gone. I cannot dirve the car at a low RPM below 2100. The second thing i do to avoid it is, i dont keep a constant rpm (press and release) so than the car engine light does not get on.

But as soon as i am at low rpm and constant rpm, the car will give me a jerk and it goes to check engine light.
The gear will only work i think 1,2,3 and while shifting it gives a jerk only when the check engine light is on.

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine manangement system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

About six weeks ago I had my timing belt service. About two weeks ago I left my gas cap off when I filled up. The Check Engine light came on so my mechanic got a new cap for me and reset the light.

A couple days later, it came back on. I notice when I filled up with gas that the metal piece with the metal flap over the gas tank was missing and has been ever since I visited my mechanic.

At first I didn't notice a performance difference, but now I'm noticing the car is idling really low whenever I push the clutch in. Is this because of the missing metal piece in the gas tank, or is there something else afoot? I'm a bit wary of my current mechanic...

The Check Engine codes are P1166 and P 1167.

Hi sweetness813,

Here are a defination of the codes.

DTC P1166: A/F SENSOR (SENSOR 1) HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

Check the following fuses:
POWER SEAT (20A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
No. 4 ECU (ECM/PCM) CRUISE CONTROL (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
No. 6 LAF HEATER (20A) in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.

DTC P1167: A/F SENSOR (SENSOR 1) HEATER SYSTEM MALFUNCTION

Both are not codes for the fuel tank cap and I do not understand what is meant by the metal flap.

check engine light is on and the srs light aslo

Hi wdlorenzo,

You need to get a scan done to retrieve the Diagnostic Trouble Codes to understand what is causing the CEL and ABS to show.

Most parts outlets provide this servicre free and get back with the exact DTC and we shall see what need to be done.

As i was driving to work this morning i noticed the check engine light come on. What do i do?

Hi there,

This is a visual warning that the ECU has logged a fault code, this will be something to do with the engine management system (normally) Get your mechanic to read the code and explain what it is referring to, what needs to be done to rectify the problem and how much it will cost. If he won't answer all questions, find one who will.

Mark (mhpautos)

I am getting check engine light signal on when I took my car to midas. they told me that it is manufacture code 1491. Can you please let me know what does this mean?

Thanks

P1491 EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected is most often caused by a broken vacuum line going to the EGR valve. So I would check all the vaccum lines to be sure they are tight and not broken. Funny thing about vacuum lines, they never break out in the open, always behind or under something. Best way to check them is to remove them one at a time so you don't get mixed up and check them over carefully.

If the vacuum lines are good, you will need to check the electronics that operate the EGR system. It is an involved procedure, much too long to include here. Go to the library, in the Reference section, and get the Motors Import Service manual. That has the complete, step by step, procedure for checking the system.

Hi recently my check engine light came on i thought it was a loose gas cap so i tightened it but it has been 3 days and it was still on so, i took it to an autoshop to run diagnostics on it and it said that the thermostat is bad. Is the Thermostat crucial to fix ? Then the next day the brake lamp sign came what is it and how do i fix these problems without going to the dealer

Any local shop should be able to help you with that
sounds as you need a light bulb
thermostat is not a big deal too require so basic tools
if you are up to it let me know
good luck

My check engine light came on when i accelerate up to 80mph. I have oil in my car and the spark plug,cables,cap,and rotor was jus change 2 weeks ago. What may be the problem?

Check engine light:

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 79,101 miles.

I am having an issue with my transmission, it is saying i have a short in the transmission range switch, but it was changed and the wiring was checked. so we checked the transmission with a transmission computer. Turns out the TCM is messed up. Where can i located the TCM in the car? please help.

Hi rkalpee, The TCM is incorporated into the ECM and is known as the PCM. It is located behind center of dash, forward of floor console.

Large diagrams BELOW Please let us know what happens. Cheers

The alarm was the problem, i took it to Honda as i was lost. Honda showed me the freeze frame data and it showed the car was running but in fact the car was not, the alarm was giving a false code because of the wiring. never go to a side shop to do an alarm cheap or not never go to them go Best Buy.

Thank you for the input.

Automobiles nowadays have many electronic components and any messing with them can cause a lot of trouble , waste of time and money.

Non qualified shops are best avoided.

I have a 2000 Honda Acoord with manual transmission. I was driving up a hill in second gear and the engine light came on. I then noticed that the car would not rev above 3500-4000 RPM almost as if it hit the rev limit. Nothing else seemed to change, I could change gears, and the clutch felt fine. I stopped the car and turned the car off. After restarting the car the engine light stays on but the car will now rev up to redline without a problem. Any ideas? Thank you for your time.

Hi pmedic242000,

When the CEL is showing, some fault has been detected in the engine management system so you need a scan to find out what is wrong.

Get it done for free at your local Autozone outlet.

Service engine light on code P1491.
one sight said it could be a vaccun line leak

Hi lmorell,

DTC P1491: EGR VALVE INSUFFICIENT LIFT.

You need to check the EGR valve and clean the passage under it.

I have engine light came on and got the code P1164, which is says it is about sensor range/performance. Does that mean it is a major issue because i have been driving the car and it is due for smog. I wanted to know if i change the spark plugs will help since i haven't changed them for a while. Please help and all your answers are appreciated alot.

Hi LADNAAN,

P1164 = AF sensor ( Sensor 1 ) Range/performance problem.

It is a fault with the HO2S sensor and changing the spark plugs are not going to help.

The sensor or its wiring circuit is faulty and sensor has to be replaced or its wiring fault rectified.

2000 Honda Accord 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

got this read out from emmission station computer OBD II Diagnostics

The MIL comand is on

Emissions-related Powertrain DTCs,Mode 3:
Electronic Control Unit ID: OE
P1705
Manufacturer specific code.
PO758
Shift Solenoid B Electrical

How do I repair and or replace myself, show diagram and what part name's or #s