Engine low power?

It sounds more like the MAF sensor needs to be replaced but to be sure this guide will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

[quote:dbd5d5ba09="BMRFIXIT"]intake manifold known for gasket leak and not a crack
smoke test would've reveal the leak if any[/quote:dbd5d5ba09]

I replaced all the manifold gaskets and the car is still doing the same thing so I did the MAF and that fixed it thank you.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Engine Performance problem
2002 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

My Ford Taurus 2002 has lost horse power and won't accelerate like it used to. My current max speed is 40 mph. Sometimes the car feels like it is going to shut down and it staggers randomly. People are telling me that the MAP sensor needs to be changed however the scanner is currently pointing to the MAF sensor P1101. I am also having problems locating the MAP sensor on the car. I have checked the internet and knows what it should look like.

Note I had to change my fuel pump couple months ago and notice that the car's performance was not the same after new pump was installed. It had poor acceleration and my max speed was 60 mph. I took the car to be scanned and it had error code P1401 and had to purchase an new EGR sensor. I thought this would fix the problem but it only got worst which has deteriorated to what it is now. I am afraid this problem is more than just the MAF or MAP sensors. I really need help with this one - Please help! I also fair that I have been ripped off by my mechanic with the fuel pump replacement - the car was not starting. He told me that the fuel was not reaching the engine.

If the computer is pointing toward the MAF, that is the direction I would go. Replacing the MAP is just a guess at this point. To be honest, a bad MAP will usually shut the car down and then it will restart, but not cause the power loss you have described.

What I recommed trying is to clean the MAF. They make a special cleaner for them that you can get at most parts store. Try that, have the computer reset, and see if it sets the same code again.

Let me know what you find and Happy Easter.

Joe

When I'm cruising in my Taurus it often feels like it looses power and feels like it's missing. I took it to the Ford dealer and they checked it and said they found nothing except the throttle body and upper intake manifold had lots of carbon buildup. Another Ford dealer found something not quite right with cylinder 6. I decided to clean the intake and tb myself. When I pulled everything I noticed something with the lower intake. The first 5 ports had black buildup inside and the 6th had rusty looking buildup inside. I'm wondering if I might have a hairline crack in the lower intake. Here is a list of all the components that have been replaced: Plugs, wires, ignition coil, pcv valve, both upstream oxygen sensors, dpfe sensor, egr valve and egr vacuum control solenoid. Here is a link to the photos of the lower intake. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Were there any codes in the computer?

Looks like coolant had been leaking in. This is the 3.0 pushrod motor I assume. Look at the gasket closely for any failures around that cyl.

I have a 2002 Ford Taurus 145,000 miles. When I accelerate from a full stop the vehicle will hesitate and shake a little, and then after driving for about 30 seconds the engine will rev up and go back down to normal. This only occurs when I'm accelerating from a full stop, it does not happen at higher speeds.

If the check engine light has come on, have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free. Also, it is hard for me to say if it is the transmission or in need of a tune up from the description. Therefore, make sure the trans fluid is clean and full (check with engine running, hot, and in neutral. Make sure the park brake is on. If it looks good, you may need something as simple as a tune up.

Has no power to the crank sensor where does ground wire goes to on plug for crank sensor all fuses and relays are good what to do next

scan for codes and if no power to crank sensor check connection may be a bad connection see if gray wire is getting power to crank sensor. then check at pcm pin 21

No power to the wire and the ground wire is not connected. I s changing the cam sensor i marked the groves on the body didnt look. Inside. h way it was position

eh ground wire is at back of cylinder head on rh side and if cam sensor was replaced then it needs to have apro hook up his scanner to sync the cam and crank sensor. might be why it doesn't run

Is there a way to put back the cam sensor without messing with timing i didnt look inside which way it was position

sure if you have a pro style scanner so you can put it in sync with the crank sensor. but other than that no

Transmission problem
2002 Ford Taurus Automatic 150000 miles

My 2002 Taurus has roughly 150,000 miles on it. The car is used every morning to deliver papers, stop-go-stop-go... for about an hour and a half. The transmission hasn't been acting up until recently, when I noticed the RPM hung around 3 for a few seconds too long before shifting. NOW(2 wks later) the RPM always gets up to atleast 3.2, sometimes 4 before shifting, and it hangs around 2 a lot. When you accelerate from a stop sign or a red light, it's like the car doesnt notice it needs to shift, it just revvs for a few seconds, then catches and sometimes bucks into the next gear. If you don't push it(push the gas down more), it will just stay @ 2.5-3rpms and keep the revving sound for as long as it wants, barely accelerating/not accelerating at all. When you're already going about 30mph and accelerate a little, it does the same thing, only catches quicker than from accelerating from a stop or a very low speed.

It also makes this humming/squeak noise when it shifts. It doesn't sound like a belt, more kind of like.. air escaping from a small space at a fast speed? IDK.. Think high pitched choo choo train. Also, the yellow blinking exclamation light in the dash comes on after it's been driven for over 10, 15 minutes on main roads. I've been told that while doing the papers it doesn't usually come on and I'm assuming it's because you don't really have to shift higher than 2nd(?) when doing the papers house to house.

PS- It's usually fine for the first 10ish minutes of driving.
Please help, if I don't have to pay $2,000.00 for a new tranny or get a new car, getting my family to work will still be possible.

car wont go past 20-25 mph, RPMs just keep going up, engine keeps revving. im too scared to rev to past 5 RPMs b/c of the noise.
i can only assume the transmission is done.

2002 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

i have changed plugs and wires fuel filter it runs sluggish will not get over bout 5mph and when ac is on it surges

Have you checked fuel pump pressure, the catalytic converter and has the check engine light been on?

no haven't checked pressure or converter but the check engine light was on for awhile but went off when i changed the plugs and wires

Chances are you had a random misfire until you replaced the plugs... I would check the converter and make sure the fuel pressure is where it needs to be.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

my car loses power going up hill speed drops from 85 to 40 quikly also feels like losing gas when engine is cold

Do you have check engine light on
check fuel pressure and fuel flow

chk engine light was on but i diconnected the neg. cable and it turned off has not come back on also replaced second fuel filter in about three months

Next time check engine light comes on need to have it checked for codes
also still do a fuel system pressure test

Today while driving the car, it started making a high pitched noise, so we pulled over and stopped. After that the car would not accelerate. Now it won't go into any of the gears. Any ideas re: the problem?

Have any warning lights come on?

No. There were no warning lights that came on.

If I had to guess, I would say the front pump went bad on the trans.

I had to change the power steering pump. Now i am having issues with the car not wanting to go over 30 mph.

Hi Chasity,

The power steering pump and not going over 30 MPH don't really have anything to do with each other so I suspect you have two issues. Did this 30 MPH issue start immediately after changing the pump or a little while later?

Either way, we need to find out what codes are in the system. I suspect the vehicle is in what is called limp mode which is a protection mode so that nothing is damaged when the ECM sees something wrong it puts into this mode but it will also set some codes so we can figure it out.

Let me know this info and we can go from there. Thanks

After i replaced to power steering pump. The codes are PO155, PO1401, PO1506, PO174 and PO175 . I installed an ERG sensor . and EGRvalve. Replaced the radiator to. When i parked the car it ran fine . The only thing I did was put gasket on , replaced radiator and power steering pump.

Problem solved, catalytic converter stopped up.

Great information. Yes. Based on those codes you had a lean condition and clogged converter is one of them. However just make sure you keep an eye on fluid levels because the main cause of plugged converters is coolant or oil going through the engine.

Thanks for following up.

It got into a wreck almost two years ago so it's been sitting in my yard since. I
recently have been driving it for the past week. I noticed when I first drove it a really bad gas smell. Then I started noticing it trying to jerk while going into gear on the highway. My foot would get warm through my shoe while accelerating. Two days ago I stopped driving it because it got to where it won't go past 20 mph or go past first gear. I checked the diagnostics and one code popped up for p1633. I have put on a new camshaft sensor, new fuel line, and new fuel filter. Could anyone tell me what could be wrong with my car?

Hello, I'm Danny.

I've attached two pictures below of what to have checked and the PCM location with description. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

my car has seem to lost half its power and when i drive it has a
•Lack of Power.
•Spark Knock/Detonation.
•Bucking and/or Jerking.
•Hesitation or Surge on Acceleration
also im going through alot of gas

And you do not have a check engine light on and its not blinking!!??
Start by checking it for a tune up
check for codes
check coil

2002 Ford Taurus

MY HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO THE EXAUST KEEPS POPPING OFF AND WHEN I DRIVE THE SPED WONT GO OVER 35 MILES..WHAT COULD I NEED?

DPFE hose ?
Need to be replaced
check for an exhaust restriction