Engine Stopped Suddenly No Spark?

Timing belt is good. Thanx for the tip about the check engine lite indicating comp has power. I'm not sure how best to check battery power to coil with these coil packs. Would I unplug connector to coil pack, turn key on, and use meter to probe the unplugged connector? I assume there is a constant 12V to coil pack w/ key on?
Thank you much for your assistance bmrfixit
wiggey

RED/LT GRN wire is battery power with key on

i dont want to sound stupid but are you sure u dont have a bad cylinoid or starter

Starter & Solenoid are fine. Egine cranks like champ.
To verify no spark I removed plug wire on intake side, connected to a new plug, grounded it & watched while my wife cranked it. No spark, not even a weak one. When key is first turned on you can hear the fuel pump pressurize the fuel rail, (I also just installed a new fuel pump/strainer/sender unit. It's definitely a no spark problem. The volt/ohm meter I have is not digital, so reading small amounts of voltage is not really possible. Payday I plan to get a new one that is auto specific & digital.
Thanx for the wiring schematic. I will check the RED/LT GREEN wire to coil with key on to verify power to coil. Thanx much for your continued assistance.
wiggey

As weird and stupid as it is, the Throttle Position Sensor cuts spark if it's bad.

Wow never heard of that. Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Electrical problem
1992 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic
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I have a 92 ranger 4.0 v-6
It won't start but cranks fine. I checked the spark and found 2 cyl. with no spark and 4 with weak spark what is the likely problem?

check distributor cap and rotor.

also switch wires around, does the problem move wiht the plug wires? if so you need new plug wires.

could be bad ignition coil.

This is a distributor-less ignition and I have already replaced the coil and moved wires around to see if i could get spark on the bad cyl. I could not

next i would add a +12v jumper wire from the battery to the + terminal on the ignition coil and check the spark again, does it provide better spark or the same?

I can not really do that with this type of coil it has the plug on the side not the terminal post . I have checked the input to the coil and I get 12.4V,and 10.65V while cranking

first you can splice in a +12v. thus the jumper wire.

since your getting good functionality is the coil putting out a bright blue spark? or weak or dead

the spark that I get is weak ( Yellow not Blue )

I have a 92 ranger that has no spark? I have changed brand new coil,crankshaft sensor,computer,used dis module tested good, And when you test the coil. to see if it has power on all three ports on the plug,they show power when cranked. And if u use a test light to see if it is grounded it works.

If it only shows power when cranked, that is a problem. It should have power when the key is in the run position too. Your problem may be the ignition switch itself.

I have a 92' Ford Ranger and the other day the starter went out. Well i put a new starter on there but didnt realize the electrical line was touching the block. When i went to start the truck everything shorted out. I fixed the electrical cable going to the starter and now everything comes on just fine and the truck tries to start. But unfortunately the truck will not actually start. I replaced all of the plugs and cannot get a spark whats so ever. What do you think the problem could? Maybe my coil is shot? Or could i have fried something when that starter shorted everything out?

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.