NO HEATER OPERATION?

there is no quicker way, it is a 1 day job no way of getting around it.

to verify it is that, you should feel the heater core hoses, if both are hot, then it is the box, if one or none is hot then it isn't the air ducts.

are they doing the heater core ?
if its the blend door
i would check the actuator
get a diff opinion and estimate

I think you should find the thermostat and replace it and check for clogging heater hose and heater core for a start. Do you feel any warm air at the passenger side near the blower motor or any warm air at all.

and this guide and video can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

and

https://youtu.be/SNRb6pSwYuU

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Heater problem
1998 Ford Explorer V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic

no heat thermostat and core seem to be fine but when i turn to heat all i get is vented air. also strange clicking from passenger side under dash.

The clicking sound is coming from the blend air door. The door moves direction to allow heat into the vehicle. If it is stuck, you will only get outside air. Check that and let me know what you find.

Joe

My car recently started to overheat and lost heat about 2 months ago

Check the thermostat and then have it pressure tested to find our more what's going on

How would I check the thermostat

For 4.0 Liter

The thermostat is located where the radiator hose meets the engine.
old engine image by John Sfondilias from Fotolia.com
The engine coolant thermostat acts as a gateway in the cooling system to allow or disallow the passage of engine coolant through the engine. To run optimally, the engine on your Ford Explorer needs to maintain a constant temperature, give or take 10 degrees. The thermostat closes when the engine temperature drops below that threshold and opens when it rises above it. Unfortunately, thermostats are not made to last forever and should be replaced during every cooling system repair. Make sure the engine is cold before beginning any cooling syst
Place the drain pan beneath the engine, below the thermostat housing. Locate the thermostat housing by following the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the housing.

Use the socket set to loosen the hose clamp on the upper radiator hose and then pull the hose off the thermostat housing by hand. Aim the hose down toward the drip pan to catch any coolant that may escape.

Use the socket set to remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the top of the engine. Lift the housing off by hand. Inspect it to make sure it has no signs of corrosion; set it aside. If there is any corrosion, you will need to replace the housing.

Pull the thermostat out of the well in the top of the engine. If it is stuck, you can use the pocket screwdriver to lift it out. Either way, it should come out easily. Note how the thermostat was positioned and oriented in the well for reference during installation.

here is a picture guide as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

and https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

I just purchased the vehicle and the heater doesn't work. The fan works fine and the automatic heat control works fine, except the air blowing is cold and not hot. I had a new thermostat put in and the coolant levels taken care of. But still, blowing cold air. Could it be a problem in the controls?

If it has a heater control valve check it and make sure the heater core is not clogged-up further could be one of the following below

Air mix/blend/mode/ recirc door problems and vacuum/actuiators and HVAC control module

When I first start my truck the thermostat willl go to hot and then come back down to normal running temperature and stay there until I let it stay shut off for a while. Also my heater is blowing cold air. I backflushed the heater box but this did not help the problem.

IS the coolant full? Also, try this. Start the engine, let it warm up with the heater on high. After it is warm, with it still running and the heater still on, feel both heater core hoses. Both should be hot. Let me know what you find.

Joe

I filled the fluids up and started the truck. The thermostat needle went all the way to hot and then came back down to normal running temperature after about 5 minutes. It stayed there for the remainder of the time the truck was running. The heater inlet house was warm the the outlet house was not.

Would the wrong size radiator cause the engine to overheat? The radiator installed is using an 11lb cap. I looked on autozone to get a new cap and it said I needed at 13lb cap for a 5.0 engine. Which leads me to believe the radiator is the wrong size.

the block is heating up but no heat blowing to the cab

With the engine warm and the heater on, check to see if both heater core hoses at the fire wall are hot. Let me know what you find.

If air conditioner stays on, and no heat will come threw. Have changed control cooling/heating switch and directional control switch. What else should we look for. No heat at all.

When you say the AC is on, is the AC compressor running? Also, with the engine hot, running, and the heater on high, do both heater core hoses get hot?

heater just stopped working all at once,we have already changed the thermostat & antifreexe,i do not hear a clicking noise as some others have stated,it blows just does not get warm

Check this for me. With the engine hot and the heater on, feel both heater core hoses. Both should be hot. If one is hot and the other isn't, chances are the heater core is plugged. If both are hot, chances are the blend air door is stuck only allowing cold air to enter the vehicle.

Let me know what you find. NOTE: Since it started all at once, if sounds like the door.

both hoses are hot,where is the blender door located

It is part of the HVAC system and is located near the heater core in the heater core box.

it was the actuator,we have replaced it and now have heat,thank you all so very,very much for the help,it is much appreciated!

Glad to help. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

By the way, was it the blend door actuator?

it sure was,we took out the glove box lining and took out the actuator box(great video of how-to on you tube)and the pin would not turn so we knew from the video that this was the culprit,the piece was only around $42,so it was much better than it being the blender door itself,once again thanks for all the help

I had a feeling that is what it was. I'm glad you got it fixed. Take care and let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

the heat went out and im trying to find the heater box in this 1998 ford explorer eddie bauer. it only blows out cold air.

check you are getting heat to both hoses on heater core ... if you are then you will need to check the blend door !! a big job i'm afraid


ELECTRONIC BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
Removal & Installation
Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove instrument panel. See INSTRUMENT PANEL .
Remove A/C electronic blend door actuator retaining screws and electrical connector from bracket on evaporator housing. To install, reverse removal procedure.

INSTRUMENT PANEL
Removal
Disable air bag system. See AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEM article. Remove steering column. See STEERING COLUMNS article in the STEERING section. Disconnect brake pedal position switch connector. Remove left and right cowl side trim panels.
Disconnect electrical connectors and ground wires on right cowl panel. Disconnect power distribution box from its bracket and position it out of way.
Disconnect 3 bulkhead wiring harness connectors from inside engine compartment. Pull bulkhead electrical connector handle to disconnect main harness. Remove passenger side air bag. See AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEM article.
Disconnect electronic blend door actuator connector. Disconnect A/C-heater control panel vacuum harness connector. Disconnect radio antenna cable in-line connector. Press glove box release tabs inward while raising glove box to remove it.
Remove instrument panel defrost grille. Remove 5 instrument panel cowl top bolts. Remove floor console (if equipped). See FLOOR CONSOLE .
Remove instrument panel brace bolt. Remove both windshield side garnish moldings. Remove right instrument panel cowl side bolt. Remove instrument panel fuse panel door. Remove left instrument panel cowl side bolt.
Carefully position instrument panel away from dash panel. Remove bolt and disconnect instrument panel-to-body electrical harness. With an assistant, remove instrument panel from vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure.
FLOOR CONSOLE
Removal & Installation (Base Models)
Remove front seat center armrest. Remove utility tray cup holder. Remove floor console. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Removal & Installation (Upper Models)
Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove front floor console tray and message center (if equipped). Disconnect floor console electrical connector.
Remove front floor console bolts. Remove center cupholder panel. Remove center floor console bolts. Slide console rearward to disengage it from mounting bracket and remove floor console. To install, reverse removal procedure.

I have a 98 explorer that the heater in malfunctioning. The heater works but there is no tempature control, it stays on high heat no matter where I dial the temp control. I checked to variable resister in the temp control and its good. Also the air conditioner fights the heater when I run it...the heater wins. I called the dealer and they sail the haeter door was stuck and they would have to take the entire dash out to fix it, for way more than I want to spend. Any suggestions?

that's pretty much it. The dash HAS to come out. the blend door motor sits on top of the air distribution box. If the blend door itself is broken, A/C has to be evacuated and the entire box removed. Not much options there, unfortunately.
Dave

I have lost my heat and somone told me the little door that is suppose to open under the dash is either broken or stuck. How do I replace this unit are ther instructions.

ED

Ed:
They are refering to the blend door, and it is a pain to access. Before taking apart the dash, make sure that is the problem. With the engine on, hot, and the heater on, feel both heater core hoses. Both should be hot.

Let me know what you find.

After the car has warmed up,no heat is available in cab.

with engine running and at normal operating temperature .. turn blowers on full .. go under hood and check both hoses to heater core are hot .. if not you have a blockage and the core needs flushing on this model it could also be the blend door is faulty

Heater problem
1998 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 180k miles

I need some advice on how to fix my heater in my car. It doesn't blow out any air, hot or cold. The vehicle does not overheat. I don't know exactly where the fuse for this is located. I found all the fuses. I know how to check if there broken. Just don't know what fuse is for the heat.

check fuse # 2 (7.5 - amp) in the fuse junction panel located on driver's side end of instrument panel. also check fuse # 2 (40 - amp maxi-fuse) in the battery junction box located on driver's side of engine compartment, near brake master cylinder. if fuses are OK check blower motor relay located in the power distribution box (left side of engine compartment, at fender apron)

i have checked out my heater hoses and the blower motor and they checked out fine. but now i have a leak in my radiator small leak coming from the radiator cap. i was thinking it could be the heater core or the radiator cap not giving the right pressure to hold down the coolant and causing the motor to not level right to blow out the hot air that i need.

So both heater hoses are getting really hot?Also the coolant level isnt low?You could have a bad cap causing the coolant leak from the cap?Or the engine could be overheating?

the hoses are getting decent heat. the coolant level is all the way its just a small leak coming from the cap itself couple drops here and there.