My engine stalls while driving?

I had a similar problem with my 93. It turned out to be a faulty PCM relay. I would be driving along and the engine would die. After a minute, it would restart and go for a while. It is located in the power distribution box under the hood. Check with your owners manual for the location.

I found this guide that can help us fix it as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

I have a problem with my Explorer in that sometimes while I'm driving the engine will die. After it sits anywhere from 15 minutes to over an hour it will start. Additionally, after driving for a while and turn off the engine it won't start. If I raise the hood for 15 minutes to over an hour it will start again. I took it to a shop about a year ago and they indicated that it was the onboard computer unit. I had that replaced. The problem went away for a few months but started back again. Any suggestions?

What you are describing is indicative of an electrical component getting hot and failing. Often in the ignition system like a control module or coil.

next time you get home after a drive and have some time to mess with it, try to restart it. If it wont start, pull a spark plug and verify that you have a good spark.

Engine Performance problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual ?broke miles

Hey guys, i have a 2004 ford explorer 4.0 v6 engine and dash in an 88 ranger with ranger drive train. Put together to be used as a mud truck for the past few years and has been beaten up on but dosent want to die. It drives pretty good for an old beat up truck
**My concern is that the engine has**
(1)very slight (idle mainly) misfire symptom,
(2)hesitates when accelerating from its set 600 rpm idle but pretty much smooths out after 2000- but no real hesitation accellarating from about 1000 rpm on up, (3)i THINK that most of the problem occurs once the check engine lite comes on(usually about a minute after starting).
(4)intake manifold is loaded inside with black greasy carbon stuff
**things i did to try and fix it so far**
(1) i changed the plugs, wires, and coil(checked and double checked wiring configuration so thats not it)(2) sprayed fuel injector/throttle body cleaner in throat(while off and while running-and wasnt really able to remove intake hose thing too far off throttle body throat without it stalling
(3)removed air filter-ran the engine-and reinstalled it(no change)
(4)removed MAF sensor plug while it was running and didnt hear a difference even when i revved up th motor(i think its called that-sensor right there with air filter???)
`really strange that it would stall when i pulled the rubber intake off the throttle body but not when i disonnected that sensor
Please help!!- I dont want to dump more useless money into this old mud truck

[quote:6de2eb9562="squared"]Engine Performance problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual ?broke miles

Hey guys, i have a 2004 ford explorer 4.0 v6 engine and dash in an 88 ranger with ranger drive train. Put together to be used as a mud truck for the past few years and has been beaten up on but dosent want to die. It drives pretty good for an old beat up truck
**My concern is that the engine has**
(1)very slight (idle mainly) misfire symptom,
(2)hesitates when accelerating from its set 600 rpm idle but pretty much smooths out after 2000- but no real hesitation accellarating from about 1000 rpm on up, (3)i THINK that most of the problem occurs once the check engine lite comes on(usually about a minute after starting).
(4)intake manifold is loaded inside with black greasy carbon stuff
**things i did to try and fix it so far**
(1) i changed the plugs, wires, and coil(checked and double checked wiring configuration so thats not it)(2) sprayed fuel injector/throttle body cleaner in throat(while off and while running-and wasnt really able to remove intake hose thing too far off throttle body throat without it stalling
(3)removed air filter-ran the engine-and reinstalled it(no change)
(4)removed MAF sensor plug while it was running and didnt hear a difference even when i revved up th motor(i think its called that-sensor right there with air filter???)
`really strange that it would stall when i pulled the rubber intake off the throttle body but not when i disonnected that sensor
Please help!!- I dont want to dump more useless money into this old mud truck[/quote:6de2eb9562]

Do you have the 2004 computer, wiring, and sensors in the Ranger? Is it the correct computer for the type of transmission you have? Is this a "new" symptom, or has it been this way since installation?

Next, I suggest that you put some diagnostics on the engine. This has the sound of a bad mass air flow sensor. Also, you should never clean the throttle body. Cleaning it will cause idle problems and hesitations.

in addition my fuel pump is an aftermarket electric external one being that this car origionally had a carbuerator and mechanical fuel pump it needed this different one. i checked the fuel pressure and factory(vaccum connected) pressure should be between 30-45 psi idle for this engine and i had 30 psi with the vac still hooked up to regulator, didnt check w/o hookup yet but it runs the same without it hooked up. Could that still be it, or maybe a bad injector or regulator? i also stalled out and to get going i put 2 gallons gas thinking that would get me going, but i had to disconnect fuel pump and turn over the engine and finally fuel started coming out from pump after about 10 seconds with the help of boosting the engine with a shot of either into the throttle body. does that tell u anything. the computer scanning just gave automatic transmission codes(which was for the car this motor was origionally in)as well as one "EGR valve" code?-all with car on/engine off

[quote:bf52f0e757="squared"]in addition my fuel pump is an aftermarket electric external one being that this car origionally had a carbuerator and mechanical fuel pump it needed this different one. i checked the fuel pressure and factory(vaccum connected) pressure should be between 30-45 psi idle for this engine and i had 30 psi with the vac still hooked up to regulator, didnt check w/o hookup yet but it runs the same without it hooked up. Could that still be it, or maybe a bad injector or regulator? i also stalled out and to get going i put 2 gallons gas thinking that would get me going, but i had to disconnect fuel pump and turn over the engine and finally fuel started coming out from pump after about 10 seconds with the help of boosting the engine with a shot of either into the throttle body. does that tell u anything. the computer scanning just gave automatic transmission codes(which was for the car this motor was origionally in)as well as one "EGR valve" code?-all with car on/engine off[/quote:bf52f0e757]

You should definitely have more pressure in the fuel system. The system is designed to have a constant pressure across the injectors. With vacuum, the pressure will be lower, without vacuum, it should be higher. The reason for the constant pressure is for the PCM to calculate the proper duty cycle for the injectors to dispense the correct amout of fuel - without adding more variables.

Probably the reason you had to prime the system is that the PCM is apparently not controlling the fuel pump relay. The PCM is programmed to run the pump for a few seconds on power-up and turn it off until it "sees" an ignition signal to turn it back on.

The trouble codes you are getting are most likely the result of having a "hybrid" setup that the system was not programmed for. I would suggest that you start by getting a '04 PCM from a stick shift. This will eliminate the transmission codes. The EGR code could be coming from a problem in the wiring.

Keep in mind that the entire SYSTEM was designed and programmed for a different vehicle with a different type of transmission. Your task now is to satisfy the PCM. When the PCM is not happy, it goes into a default programming mode that is essentially a cold engine program. Performance and driveability suffer ein this mode. Simply changing parts is not likely to solve the problem(s).

lol :).... thanks man, that sounds like were getting somewhere with the troubleshooting process. very interesting, especially because, well, uh, there is no fuel pump relay in this rig!!!lol i dont kno what the guys that built this thing were thinking, but this sounds like i should just make sure what i have is not broken/clogged in the fuel system(regulator, pump, ect.), and maybe put a cheap higher pressure pump in???and if that dosent work its probrably too much money to go any further on this thing huh?just drive it to the ground? also if i were to get an 04 manual computer, will it hook up properly to this 88 ranger gearbox? and what kind of 04 manual computer? 4.0L V6 ford anything(whatever that had this motor with a manual trans in 04?)
thanks again for your time helping me with this!!! I hope you tell me it will be worth it, and the pump could be a possible fix.

[quote:0f298f5230="squared"]lol :).... thanks man, that sounds like were getting somewhere with the troubleshooting process. very interesting, especially because, well, uh, there is no fuel pump relay in this rig!!!lol i dont kno what the guys that built this thing were thinking, but this sounds like i should just make sure what i have is not broken/clogged in the fuel system(regulator, pump, ect.), and maybe put a cheap higher pressure pump in???and if that dosent work its probrably too much money to go any further on this thing huh?just drive it to the ground? also if i were to get an 04 manual computer, will it hook up properly to this 88 ranger gearbox? and what kind of 04 manual computer? 4.0L V6 ford anything(whatever that had this motor with a manual trans in 04?)
thanks again for your time helping me with this!!! I hope you tell me it will be worth it, and the pump could be a possible fix.[/quote:0f298f5230]

Well, why not start with the easier stuff first......
First thing you need to find is a reasonably priced DIY junkyard. We have them in my neck of the woods, not sure about where you are. Around here, a computer only runs about $10 to 20 if you pull it yourself. Any Explorer or Ranger computer from a 4.0 with stick shift should be OK.

A really good starting point would be to get a Haynes manual for the car that the engine came from. Look at the wiring diagram. You can get a used power distribution box and wire the thing yourself without too much complication. The important things are the PCM power relay and the fuel pump relay. There is a very good reason that the PCM controls the fuel pump - SAFETY!!! If you were to develop a fuel leak or be involved in a collision that compromised your fuel lines, the PCM will shut off the fuel. Without the relay and the inertia switch, the fuel keeps coming. If you try to restart at that point, without a safety system, you could potentially have the entire contents of the fuel tank leaking all over. One spark, and you have a "towering inferno"!!!

The loaded question is whether it is worth it. Only you can decide that. You have the potential for a good usable truck that can serve you for many years - assuming the rest of the vehicle is in good shape. Rust and general condition are the main points to consider.

BTW, fuel pressure is very important. The system is designed to operate on a predetermined fuel strategy that is programmed into the PCM. That is why there is a pressure regulator and a high volume/high pressure pump in the original. If you don't have the right pressure, nothing else you do will matter.

the vehicle will sometimes start and will drive for a while, sometimes the car will not start but the engine will turn over and run the battery flat. while driving the car will just stall out and then it wont start again till i jump it stalls out sometimes. changed fuel filter and fuel pump. car does turn over

I need you to check something. On the 94, there is a relay called the Electronic Engine Control (EEC). I have experienced people with the same vehicle saying they drive, it runs fine, they stop and it won't restart. If the relay is bad, it will shut down the fuel pump and spark to the engine. When it doesn't start, switch the EEC with another relay in the box that has the same part number. See if that fixes the problem. If it does, replace the relay.

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic 174016 miles

The car will start and you can drive it but then it will die. If you wait a few minutes it will restart and you can drive it again. I replaced the fuel pump and that did not fix the problem, What should I look at next?

It sounds like a crank sensor. Have you actually checked fuel pump pressure? I realize it is new, but there could be an issue with the regulator. Has the check engine light come on?

i have a 1994 ford explorer. when we drove it, we gave it gas and it didnt want to go up the hill. then it stalled. what do we need to look at first to replace or clean?

Based on your description, when going up a hill, there is more demand for fuel. Therefore, I would start by checking fuel pump pressure.

Here are directions for checking.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them. Check that and let me know what you find. Also, let me know if the fuel filter has been replaced.

Joe

ok, we will start with that and see. do you think that it would have anything to do with oxygen sensor, or mass air flow sensors? is there a possibility that the cataliytic converter could be stopped up?

If the O2 sensor or MAF was bad, it would have set the check engine light. As far as the catalytic converter, that could be a problem. When the engine is running and at normal temp, look at the converter. Many times when they are plugged, they get red hot. If it is red, replace it.

just read a post sounds like its close to miy prob. During hot weather it stalls I have to let it cool down to get going again which does'nt last long then it dies again. It was doing this last summer, when the weather cooled down it did not do it again then this summer came its back to doing it again, early morning or late in the evening when it cools it runs perfect, I know this might sound strange but thats whats happening, havethrew some parts at it with no success, scan tool is'nt picking it up, what part could have to do with outside temp? Anyone have any ideas? Will donate for the right answer. Thanks

We got it fixed so anyone who is having same problem change out your crankshaft position sensor it fixed my problem and the part is'nt too exspensive $39 and change total at O' Reillys auto parts store. The sensor was'nt completly out it was weak so when it got hot enough it would cause truck to die.

I drive a 1994 Ford Explorer with 288000km and a couple of weekends ago, I was driving on the highway (HDW401) and stopped off at a service station to get lunch. When I returned back to the truck about 10 minutes later the truck would not start. The engine would turn over, but did not start. I tried pressing on the gas pedal, but would not start. I called a tow truck and about 40 minutes later the tow truck showed up and then the truck started with no problem. I decided to drive the truck home and after about 1 hour on the highway with the cruise control set to 115km/h the engine stopped running. After a couple of minutes the engine started again but ran really rough. At this point I was only about 20km from home. I made it home but the truck stalled about 20 times, and each time the truck started again but ran really rough and making lots of engine noice. The next day the truck and ran without any problems, but I did not go far. What can I fix or replace to prevent this happening again?

first , I would see if it pulls and codes . and if it does go from there .

This happens to my explorer, and I haven't fixed it yet, but I have a good intuition after months of research that its probably the crank shaft sensor

Problem started while I was on the highway. I was going about 55mph and when I pushed down on the gas pedal, nothing would happen. Soon the check-engine light comes on and the truck would stop. I would set in park for about 5 minutes and then it would go again. Each time this happened (every day) the distance it would go got shorter and shorter with the gas pedal not reacting when depressed. Now the entire truck shakes during idle and shuts off after 5 minutes. I have replaced the 02 sensors, mass air flow sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned intake manifold, and still at a loss. Scanner shows low voltage to mass air flow sensor, but not sure if just needs code cleared. At a loss of what could be the problem.

check intake gasket and timing
I would recheck the fuel pressure too
disconnect MAF sensor start and check if any improvement
clear codes and recheck if you have codes let me know what do u have for codes

I have a 1993 ford explorer and there are times when i am driving that it seems as though no gas is reaching the engine to make it run and it will stall out. we took it to a mechanic and they said it was a fuel clamp but it hasn't stopped stalling even after they looked at it. We are gonig to try dry gas but we dont think that that is the problem. does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it?

Has the check engine light come on? Also, has the fuel filter been replaced? Finally, here is a how to for checking fuel pump pressure. I need you to check it and let me know what you find. Also, does the car start right back up when it dies?

Let me know:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Joe

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer that cranks right up runs good when it idles. I go a mile down the road it will stall, and drop down to about 25 or 30mph, then it like it starts running good and I might make it another 2 or 3 miles down the road and it does the same thing, I just pump the foot petal, and after it drops down to the 24 or 30 mphs it will start back and in about a 10 mile run it will do it at least three times. I can stop at the store put in new gas, and sometimes add fuel cleaner to the gas and I will make it 10 miles or so and it will start doing it again...The check engine light is on but its been on sense the day I bought it, and no body has been able to get it to stay off. its a 1994 Ford Explorer I think my husband said a 4.0 motor

I was driving on the freeway and I had my cruise control on it went off by itself so I put it back on and then the check engine light went on and stalled and it will not start anymore. Starting fluid wont work, Its getting fuel so im not sure what to try or replace?

Hello, Thank You for the Donation.... Since engine light came on there is most likely a code set. You will need to pull codes... Here's How..... To extract DTCs from the computer for diagnostic purposes, the Self Test connector is used. It is located in engine compartment on drivers side on fender well. 1.Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. If engine will not start or stalls after starting, proceed with next step. 2.Turn the key "OFF", then wait ten seconds. 3.Activate the self test by grounding the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. 4.Turn the ignition key "ON". Engine Light will Flash codes. 5.Record all codes received. 6.Turn ignition "OFF".

The following is how to read flashes... Codes will be 2 digits..... Flash short pause flash long pause = code 11 flash short pause flash flash would = code 12 flash flash short pause flash would = 21 and so on. Post codes back here in forum.....

The OBD reader said 542 Fuel pump circuit

Ok, have you check to see if you are geting spark at the plugs? If so and you are getting spark what color? It should be a Bright Bluish/White. If Orange it is weak and could be the Coil Pack.

Also try disconnecting the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor and try starting.

You say you are getting fuel did you check the fuel pressure. If not you may not have enough fuel pressure and testing the pressure will help determine if it is the fuel pump or the regulator.

.

I already replaced the coil pack so I dont think its that, I tested the fuel pressure and when its cranking (cause it wont start up to check running pressure) I have 40 psi of pressure, I tried unplugging the MAF sensor and it still wouldnt start.

So is it the fuel pressure regulator or the pump? Possibly something else?

The code indicates a bad ground somewhere between the PCM and the Engine. So you will need to check the grounds.


.

Where in the truck should I start to look for the ground? And how would it be the ground? it cranks but doesnt start, Im just curious how...

Thank you for your help
Tom

Ooops sorry, you need to check the grounds wires coming out of the PCM which is located behind passenger side of dash near kick panel.

everything that requires power must have an appropriate ground. All electrical components need power, and the power must make it back to ground. It must be a complete circuit. That is the reason it is called a circuit.

.

How do I check all of the wires? There's a ton of them, is there anything else it could be besides a ground?

Ok, since the code you posted is 542 and the Code Def is [color=blue:639231235a] Fuel Pump Circuit Open - PCM to Motor Ground[/color:639231235a], that indicates a ground problem. It could also be a Bad PCM.

There are only a few wire to check and since it is in the Fuel Curcuit through the PCM all you should have to check is the PCM Case Ground and the FPM Ground.

Look at the diagram for you engine size.

Remove the Harness to the PCM Find the Color Coded wire for the PCM Ground #20 in both Diagrams. Find grounding point and use Ohm Meter to test.

Then look for the FPM #8 in both diagrams and they are both the same color code Dark Green with Yellow Stripe. Use same proceedure as above to test.

.

Engine Performance problem
1993 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Engine starts fine and sounds fine but after driving about 3 or 4 miles the engine spits and sputters and loses all power to move forward after stopping at a red light.Then the engine light comes on and the engine dies...I wait about 60 seconds and start the engine back up and go on for another 3 or4 miles til the same thing happens....someone told me the fuel pump was going bad.so I changed it,twice,and the fuel filter...Still had same problem...took it to a repair shop and the guy says he is 90% sure that the cat converter was bad......took it to the muffler shop and had them put on a new cat,muffler and tail pipe.On the way home the engine did the same crap..also replaced plugs and plug wires....got a repair manual and there is no help in it for me.....got any idea what might be the problem????..........Broke and POed.

Well, my first question would be is the check/service engine light on? Although the OBD1 computer on 1995 and earlier models are not as sophisticated as the new ones, it could give you a good starting point......most of your parts stores will read these codes for free.
If the light isn't on, it's going to be hard to diagnose without being able to duplicate the problem. Sounds like you're either losing fuel pressure or spark event and there are procedures to check fuel pressure regulator, ignition module, coil, etc. in any service manual like a Haynes or Chiltons, so I would get one if you haven't already.......

Greetings! I bought a '94 Ford XLT 4x4. It has 125,000 miles. Got on the freeway, accelerating normally, had a hard time pushing past 65. When I hit a slight decline, I got to about 76. But when going back uphill, I went back down to 65 and couldn't get past it no mater how much I pushed on the gas petal. When I pushed it all the way to the floor the RPMs went up to 3 then dropped under 2 and I started to slow down dramatically. Almost as if the engine turned off. I released the gas and coasted for about 5 seconds then eased the gas. I started to speed up but nothing past 60, until I started driving downhill at a slight decline.

What do you think the problem is, and what is causing it? nice site :-)