Engine will not start and run?

Hello,

This is a common problem when the fuel pump is starting to go out.

Here is a guide and some diagrams (below) that will show you what is needed to replace the fuel pump:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Here is a video of the job being done on a similar car:

https://youtu.be/D1AyqeftAmA

Here is what you need to do on your car:

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Engine will crank but won't start. Fuel pump is working and fuel pressure is good. Sprayed starting fluid and still won't start (just to eliminate fuel issue altogether). Replaced spark plugs, checked spark all the way to the plug and it's good. Replaced crank angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, and knock sensor. Still will not start. During attempts to start, it would backfire through the throttle body every now and again but not consistent. Visually checked the timing chain and it appears to be fine. Battery is brand new and was tested. Checked anti-theft system by inserting key in ignition and see that the theft light goes off when attempting to start.

What engine? have checked for trouble codes?

I had it checked for codes and it said I needed a new cam sensor and knock sensor. I have not checked since I replaced those.

Engine is 3.0L

Problem occur sudenly? any issues before it went dead? Have checked engine compression?

My car started to overheat one day add fluid seemed to be okay...the day it died I was going down the road and all of a sudden the heat gauge went all the way to hot...all the lights came on and it died. Oil and coolant showed low, so I added those. I had it towed and a friend looked at it and changed the crank sensor. still did not start, I paid a mobile mechanic to run a computer check, came up with codes for a new cam sensor and knock sensor, but he said the engine compression was great on it.

I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 100082 miles on it and a V6 engine. My engine cranks but my car will not start unless I have the gas pedal down. It will not idle. If I remove my foot from the gas pedal the car turns off. I revved the engine for a moment and when it got up to about 4000 rpms it makes a strange whipping noise and the car shakes. I just put over 3000 dollars into a new transmission. I am poor college student and I really don't have the money to spend another large repair. Please tell me this is something simple or what I can start to check.

Is the check engine light on?

I have seen this problem before its the idle air control valve making it stall at idle and it is making the noise.

Here is a guide that will help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

I changed 2 direct coils that had no spark with 2 known good coils that produce spark. I checked the remaining coils and all 6 produce a good spark now. I changed the spark plugs too but it still will not start. It does turn over and I know that I'm getting fuel b/c I pulled two of the plugs back out and they had fuel on them. I can also smell the raw fuel when I try to start it.
Now a little back ground on this Escape. It is my sister-in-laws vehicle and it had been running very rough. She could not get it to go above 45 mph and the RPMs were running 5K. It also used about a half tank of gas in less than 50 miles and finally stopped running and would not start after that. I assume that it was running on less than 6 cyl. When I pulled the old plugs they all appeared to be fouled and the #2 and #5 plugs were eroded very badly. I thought this was going to be an easy fix! Thanks for your help.

You have fuel but no spark? What have you checked? What have you replaced? Do you have a digital multi meter to test a few things? I am wanting to test the cam and crank shaft sensors. Get back to me with as much info as you can so I can be of better help. Thanks

This is to "racefan966".
Like I stated in my post, I have fuel and spark with 4 of the 6 coils. I replaced the 2 bad coils with 2 known good coils and all 6 spark plugs are now new. It still will not start. I tested all 6 coils with a test plug and all six coils produced what looks to be a good spark. So right now I have 6 good coils with 6 new spark plugs and fuel, but it still will not start. It does turn over, but it doesn't sound like any cyl. are trying to fire.
Yes I have a digital multimeter. Thanks

Ok so lets check the crankshaft sensor. The crankshaft sensor is on the front of the engine. What you need to do is unplug it and check the resistance should be 5 ohms or less (do this on the connector, see pic below). Now I need you to use the pic below to check for voltage at the CKP- circuit. To do this with the sensor unpluged hook up you meter to the CKP- term on the plug and turn the key on engine off and check voltage. Should be 1 to 2 volts. Let me know what you find here and we will take it from there.

I have 1.5 v at the plug but more than 5 ohms on the CKP. On the auto scale I show .356 K ohms, but on the manual scale for just ohms I get no continuity. Am I safe to assume that the CKP sensor is bad? What about the two coils that didn't show any spark? Thanks

Was the info I provided sufficient or do you need more?
I will be looking often for your reply as I really need to get this car fixed. Please respond as soon as you can. Thanks
Larrye

Ok as for the ohms if it is out of spec then yes it should be bad. I am not there so I must assume that the test was done correctly. As for the coils that don't fire this sensor tells the computer when to fire the each cylinder as the crankshaft turns it see's the crank movement (there is a wheel on the crankshaft for it to read) and then the computer fires the coil at the correct time. Now if the crankshaft sensor fails this won't happen so you may get spark at the wrong time or not at all. So with the info given I would say the sensor is bad. Before replacing it I would check the ohms of the new one to the old one because once you plug it in it is non returnable. Let me know how it goes.

Thanks for the info, I'll give this a try and let you know what I find out.

OK sounds good. Just get back to me on how it goes. If we need to look further then we will.

OK, I changed the CKP sensor and it still will not start.
What's next?

Ok check if you have spark and what cylinders do not have spark to. Now I would also like you to check the ohms of the wires to any plugs that you don't have spark to. Get back to me with ohms and length of wire. Let me know what you find. Have you checked fuel pressure to see what it is?

vehicle running fine yesterday.pouring rain all day and night. will not start today. fuel at fuel rail, battery voltage good. what can get wet or fail to cause no start?

Are you getting spark to the plugs? Here is a how to for checking:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

To answer your question, chances are ignition wires, distributor cap, coil... got wet and is shorting. If you open the hood at night and crank the engine, you may actually see a spark from something arcing from the water.

Check for spark and let me know what you find.

Joe

elec ignition joe no dist cap 6 coils one for each plug no spark. answer doesnt help

crankshaft position sensor apparently got wet.removed c, cleaned ,blew whole connection with hair dryer,reinstalled. vehiicle started right up.

I'm glad you got it fixed. I was just listing possible things that can cause you to loose spark.

Regardless, thanks for using 2carpros.com and have a great holiday.

Joe

I just replace the engine in my 02 ford escape. The replacement engine came out of a mercury sable. The engine looked the same except for the front cover which I changed. I also used all of the sensors from the original engine.
My problem is that I cant get the engine to start. I seem to have fuel, fire and good compression but the motor will not start.

The engine used in the Sable and the engine used in the Escape are not the same engine and to my knowledge, they are not interchangeable. .

Ok.... Well I both engines and they look identical except for the front cover/timing chain cover. I took the cover from the old escape engine and put on the other engine and used the original intake and sensors.
There is no noticeable difference in the engines and their setup. If you can please advise me of the difference I would really appreciate that.
Thanks

They use different VIN identification numbers so they are made differently somehow and probably require different operating systems. I can't tell you any more than that.

I am confused because one ford expert sais the engine will work and they look exactly alike... and you said they are different even though they look alike. Im confused

2002 Ford Escape had trouble past several months with engine not starting. Sometimes works no problem, sometimes takes a few minutes but would eventually start. Today was a different story. Have power to lights, radio and engine cranks but won't turn over. I had low oil level but added sufficient oil, still wouldn't start. Tried resetting pcm but still nothing. any suggestions?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first check underhood fuses as well.

Engines are identified by a specific digit in the VIN number. When the same number is used over different car lines, you know they are using the same engine, when the VIN identification of the engine is listed differently, that will mean the engines are different in some way. The car uses a VIN "U" engine and the truck uses a VIN "1" engine.
The truck engine is a "Duratec" engine and the Taurus engine is not.

Don't have a gauge or ability to bleed off fuel pressure. Checked fuses, all are good. Last resort is towing car to mechanic to have him look at it. Pretty sure it's not getting fuel but short of towing, not sure what to do next.

Interestingly enough the Taurus and the sable engine is different. The Taurus engine has the plugs to the side of the head while the sable has the plugs in the top of the head between the cams just like the escape. The only obvious difference is that the sable has a coil pack and wires while the escape has individual coil packs that go on each plug. This has really got me turn upside down.
Thanks for your patience..... if you find anything that will help me out let me know.
Big Macs

SORTA SOUNDS LIKE WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO DO SOME OF THE TESTING AND OR/ REPAIRING

............YOU MAY ALREADY BE AT THE LAST RESORT OPTION

SORRY, TEST RESULTS ARE VITAL TO COMING UP WITH A SOLUTION TO A PROBLEM.....THERE COULD BE MANY POSSIBILITIES, NARROWING IT DOWN TO A SPECIFIC ISSUE WILL KEEP YOU FROM THROWING MONEY AT IT NEEDLESSLY.........AND TEARING YOUR HAIR OUT

THE MEDIC

Of course that's not going to work. You don';t have anything to operate that system.

most auto parts rent the gauge, it's not hard to bleed off the fuel rail.

i pulled into a gas station put the vehicle into nuetral and set the e-brake....before i got through the door...then engine stalled ...so i asked my girlfriend to turn the swicth off....had it checked on an autozone computer no codes came up....its making spark and can hear fuel pump spin up when turn the key....understand bad idle air valve would make it stall...but what would keep from starting back up....cam shaft sensor...crankshaft sensor. and if so wouldn't that be strange both just happened to go out at once.... appreciate any suggestions you may have