Engine rebuild

Good morning,

Can you upload some pictures of your truck under the hood? There are some you can eliminate but not that many.

Roy

Sure thing! Here you go.

Hi Twebb101!

I'm Ryan, from the YouTube series. First off, thank you so much for watching!

Secondly to answer your question. Ours is a custom build so it has a few things missing that something from factory you might want. On your rig the two things I could see cutting if you really want a cleaner look is getting a different carburetor with mechanical secondaries instead of vacuum. The other thing if you really do not use it is to take out the air conditioning. I know that last one is something most people would not want to lose.

Thank you again for watching and using 2CarPros!

-Ryan

Thanks Ryan!! Can you explain what the mechanical secondary's vs vacuum is? I don't understand what that means.

Mechanical is when linkage operates the secondary's.

The vacuum is when they are operated by the load.

Roy

Not a problem! So the secondaires on a 4 barrel carburetor add fuel when in a heavy throttle situation. There are two ways to achieve that. Either you rely on vacuum which requires a vacuum line from the intake manifold. Or you have a physical mechanical connection from the throttle actuation. You would need a different carburetor and to plug the vacuum line from the intake manifold.

I think the best and cheapest route for you to go is give the engine a nice wash, take off and paint the valve covers, then use zip ties to bunch everything together neatly. You would be absolutely shocked what a little elbow grease will do to the look of your engine bay.

Awesome, thank you! I'm planning on following your series to rebuild the engine, and when putting it back in the truck, I'm going to rewire it and tidy everything up as you suggested. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go, but as always, top notch stuff from you and the 2CarPros team. Keep it up!

No problem! Awesome to read that! I made the series for that exact reason, that anyone could rebuild a big block in their garage.

Thanks so much for watching! We will be here for any of your questions totally free!

A follow up to this.. The truck has sat without running for about 8 years or so; before that, to my knowledge, everything worked great mechanically. What are the chances that I will need to replace the power brake booster, master cylinder, and other A/C/heater components in the engine bay?

The master cylinder and all rubber parts are a good idea. Flush the system as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-wheel-cylinder

No need for the AC system. I would evacuate the system and charge and test for leaks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

Roy

Another follow up: exhaust manifolds. Attached are the two I removed from my engine. Are they good to just clean up and reuse? Should I get new ones? Also, can you tell me what the probes are that are inside of them? Do I need those? What would they connect to?

That is the tubes for the air injection system for emissions. If you are putting it back to stock, you can reuse them.

Otherwise, you can remove them and use plugs to insert in the manifold.

Roy

Two more follow ups:

1. Do you have any good references or information on ignition timing? It’s very confusing to me, and I’m not sure what to do for my rebuild?

2. Any suggestions for chrome/metallic paint for my belt pulleys?

The timing will depend on the camshaft you choose. The stock timing is 10 BTDC.

No to the paint. That will burn off very quickly from the heat build up. I would get the pulleys that are all chrome if that is what you want to use.

Roy

Regarding the oil pan: if the stock capacity of the engine is 7 quarts with filter, do I need a 7 quart oil pan?

Yes. In fact. I would suggest a 10 quart oil pan.

Roy

Earlier, I asked about the exhaust manifolds. The intake and water pump look similar to those. Should I have them sandblasted before I reuse them? Should I paint them at all, or just leave them bare metal?

I did answer about the manifolds. I would not paint them as the paint will burn off from the heat.

I would have the other parts sandblasted before reuse. Do not paint them but if you do, use high-temperature paint to try to keep them from peeling off.

Roy

Yes, I remember, I was just recalling that conversation. Thank you for the input.

Anytime.

Roy

Regarding the emissions air injection tubes for the exhaust manifolds: I can find the tubes online to buy, but I cannot find the extension tubes that connected to the air tubes and went directly inside the manifolds. Do I need those extensions, or just the main air tubes as shown in my earlier pics of the exhaust manifolds? The pics I posted earlier show the extender tubes in question.

If you are planning on the system working correctly, you will need the extenders.

Roy

I need to replace one of my exhaust manifolds; should I get oem cast iron, or put on some headers? Maybe these, if they'll fit? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9011/make/chevrolet/model/c20/submodel/silverado/year/1984

I would definitely go with the headers. Making the exhaust breather better increases performance dramatically.

If you were to replace the manifolds, use cast iron.

Roy

Great, thank you. If we do headers, how does that affect the AIR injection stuff...does all of that go away? I just bolt on the headers and call it good?

I would not install the system at all.

Roy

I would like to paint the heads before installing them on the block. I got them back from the machine shop, fully assembled (valves, springs, etc.), and clean cast iron. Am I okay to paint them and then bake them to cure them, or should I just paint them and install them, and let the engine heat (when running) cure them?

Paint them and install them. They will be fine.

Roy

Power steering pump re-use, or buy a different one?

You can reuse it as long as there was no issue prior to the rebuild.

Roy

Can you tell me what the small pulley is used for, to the left of the water pump? Is that the 'air compressor' for the exhaust air system? Or something else?

That is the air pump.

You will be removing that and not using it since you eliminated the parts in the exhaust manifold.

Roy

Any idea what this vacuum part is? It's on the intake manifold, right next to the thermostat. Obviously the tubing is wrong, but I'm trying to find out what it is, and if I need to replace it.

That is a thermostatic switch. There is a vacuum on one side all the time but will only pass a vacuum when it reaches a certain temperature.

They used it for 2 reasons. It was for the EGR valve if it has one. It also controls the vacuum advance for the distributor if it has one.

Roy

Battery/power/ground cables...I need to replace mine on the truck. Can you give me an idea of what, how many, how long, gauge, etc.?

Okay, I attached the battery cables below for you. It lists the length, gauge and it has the ends already installed.

You have 2 cables. You can get them at a parts store if you do not want to get them from a parts store.

Roy

The radiator we pulled out was a 4-row core; LMC says I need a 1-row core. Should I replace what I had, or get the cheaper, less-core, unit? Any pros/cons?

Leave that one in there. It gives extra cooling to the system. No harm in added cores at all.

Roy

Can you tell me what this part is? It seems like some sort of vacuum thing…?

It is for the cruise comtrol. Vacuum is applied and it pulls on the throttle to adjust vehicle speed.

Roy