engine replacement instructions please?

Yes. You can use this engine but you may need to get a generic controller so that you don't have issues with the security system or performance parameters.

However, the engine will just bolt up with no issues.

Below are the instructions from the manual on how to replace this. Let us know what questions you have. Thanks

Good afternoon,

Yes, you can.

You will need to make sure you change over any exxternals that may be different.

I attached a youtube video of the procedure for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EA-wi56daBQ

Roy

My truck 4.6L Triton engine locked up going down the highway. I have purchased a new re-manufactured engine and had it shipped to an auto repair shop where I have taken the truck to be fixed. The mechanic at the auto repair shop quoted me a price and approximate time of repair. I received a call from him telling me that my engine is locked up and that I had not told him that and it is going to change the repair costs and time. What is it about changing out a "locked up engine" or a "non-locked up" one that changes the time and cost of repairs?

The engine needs to be rotated almost one complete revolution to remove the bolts, one at a time, from the flex plate to the torque converter. Only one or two of them can be accessed at a time through the inspection cover at the bottom/front of the transmission.

Something sounds not quite right here. There is an easy work-around in which the torque converter gets pulled off the transmission and stays with the engine as the engine is removed, then the bolts can be accessed later to remove them.

It is not customary to buy your own parts and ask to have them installed. That's like bringing your own food to a restaurant and asking them to cook it for you. In this case, I find it very hard to believe the person you talked with at the shop didn't ask you right away why you wanted the engine replaced. You wouldn't walk into a hospital and expect to be treated without them asking you for what. When I spoke with a customer who wanted his car aligned, I always asked him why, so I knew if it was just a maintenance thing or if there was some problem I needed to look for. Very often people think a transmission or an engine has to be replaced when no professional actually diagnosed it as such. Any reputable mechanic will check it first to see if that major repair is really needed, and gladly tell you the problem is much less-expensive to solve. I can't imagine someone not asking why you wanted to have the engine replaced.

Given the age and mileage, as long as this work is being done, consider having the transmission's from pump seal replaced right away. They become hardened from engine heat over time, and regardless whether the torque converter comes out with the engine or it stays on the transmission, that seal is going to have unusual pressure placed on it that will deform it. If it is still pliable, it will just go back to its proper shape when everything is reassembled. If it has become hardened, it is likely to crack. That will result in leaking transmission fluid and the need to remove either the engine or the transmission to get to that seal, when that could have been avoided by just replacing it as long as they were right there. That is a round metal ring with a rubber lip seal that rides on the hub of the torque converter. This extra service should take about 15 to 20 minutes when everything is already disassembled.

Shouldn't be much more time, locked up or not!

Is it possible for me to swap out my blown 5.4 l engine from my 2004 f150 xlt with a 5.4 l triton engine from a 1999 E350 ?

as long as you can put in all the sensors from the 04 engine in the 99 then you could as they are both overhead cam. if not it wouldn't work because the computer wouldn't work correctly and your fuel mileage would be crap

my truck stalled while driving through standing rain water. it was up to at least 3/4 of the front of the truck about 45 min. I was told the engine had to be replace, I also had to buy a water pump, carburator, brakes set and air and oil filter. Did I need to buy those items , if the engine was to be replace?

It matters if you purchased a short block. In that case, parts from the old engine need to be switched to the new one. However, you vehicle doesn't have a carburator, and the brakes shouldn't have been affected. As far as the air and oil filter, yes you would need them.

Let me know if you have other questions.

My truck listed above has a loud clunking noise and low or no oil pressure. I was told it needed a new timing chain and guide set up and a new oil pump. I The VIN is FTRW08L63KC31966. I have another Ford, VIN is FMRU15L11LA35999. This is in a 2 wheel drive SUV. Can I swap motors, and what would be involved?

Hello, I'm Danny.

Sorry, the engine from the Expedition even though its a 5.4L it has a completely different prefix number and is therefore non-interchangeable with your F-150. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

I have a blown engine and I want to replace with new engine. can I change intake and use carburetor?

That depends on the engine you are using and how much work you want to do, as well as what area you are in with regards to testing of safety and emissions. The truck would instantly fail any emission testing. Next you will need a different fuel system to handle the low pressure for the carb, and determine how to work with the electronics like the ignition and such. You wouldn't be able to use much of the current parts as they depend on the injection system and computer.
Everything would be going back to the late 80's to make a carb work, and in the end you have a vehicle that will get worse mileage, be harder to tune and close to impossible to sell.

In the event that you want to replace the motor, below is the process from the manual if you need it.

Thanks

Had no oil pressure and the oil pump drive shaft was not spinning so assumed the camshaft synchronizer was bad. Upon removal I found that the driving gear connected to the large timing chain sprocket was completely smoothed down. I cannot find a name for this piece or any info on how to remove it! Any help is appreciated. Image of the gear below.

That is part of the camshaft so you will need a new one. also, this usually happens when the oil pump pickup is clogged or the oil pump is going out. If this is the original engine it might be time for a rebuilt unit. First disconnect the battery and drain the coolant and engine oil. Here are the instructions on how to replace the engine in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

I've just replaced the engine of my truck with a used engine that my father in law bought from the states. the problem is, there are some extra wire harness and some extra hoses that i don't know where they go to. how can you tell what year was that engine manufactured and what model was it from? is there a number on the engine that i can tell what year that model is?

There should be a number in the engine block casting. If you can find and provide that, I may be able to decode it and get the info you need.

Also, tell me engine type. For example, is it a 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder...

I will also mention that based on the model year of the engine, you may be in for more than you expect. Many of the newer engines have different sensors, different ports... than the older ones. In addition, you may not be able to get your present sensors to work which can lead to new problems.

Let me know and I'll do my best.

What all do i need to take off when removing my engine out of my truck listed above?

I am attaching the entire process from the manual on how to remove the engine. Let us know if you have other questions. It is pretty extensive but not too bad to remove this one.

Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Ford F150 V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

i am changing out a 97 4.6 romeo motor in a f-150. i am replacing with a 99 4.6 romeo motor. i've pretty much stripped the old motor but cant get to the top two tranny-engine bolts. is there any way to get them out without pulling the cab or intake manifold???

remove engine supporting crossmeber and tranny crossmemember and drop the engine and trans.

You will need to pull the intake to get to those. There is just no room. Check that engine closely as the Romeo engine has head problems from the factory.

u will need to drop engine and tranny or yes u must take plentum off. not that bad though. about an hours work if that.

hey i have a 1996 ford f150 4x4 with the 5.0 was wondering if a 5.0 out of a 89 f150 would bolt straight in? thanks is it a straight swap?

unless they have changed the way the motor mounts in the truck meanign where the current mounts go in it should be although you will have to put the more modern equiptment onit so it will be a bolt in swap. meaning the intake/exaust, maybe oil pan and alternator, etc. make sur ethe intake pattern bolts are the same as they may have changed like going to a smaller bolt or metric.

oh well i also have a seven inch lift will that matter?

I need to change the engine in my truck can you help me?

Hi,

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. If it if it will work, yes, but you will need to switch everything from the 1990 on to the new engine. The components are different but the engine itself should work.

Let me know if that is what you needed.

My 1993 needs engine. Have a 1990 engine. What do I need to change?

Will I need to change distributor?

I would recommend it. You want the ignition system working the same as it did. Here are directions for removal and replacement:

_________________
1993 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L
Distributor Assembly
Vehicle Powertrain Management Ignition System Distributor Service and Repair Procedures Removal and Installation Distributor Assembly
DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY
Removal

1. Disconnect distributor from wiring harness.
2. Mark position of No. 1 cylinder wire tower on distributor base for reference when installing distributor.
3. Loosen distributor cap hold-down screws. Lift cap straight off distributor to prevent damage to rotor blade and spring. Position cap and attached wires aside so as not to interfere with distributor removal.
4. Remove rotor by pulling upward to remove it from the distributor shaft and armature.
5. Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp. Remove distributor by pulling upward.
6. Cover distributor opening in the cylinder block or head with a clean shop towel to prevent the entry of foreign material or dirt into the engine.

Installation

1. Visually inspect distributor.
2. Inspect O-ring. It should fit tightly and be free of cuts.
3. The drive gear should be free of nicks, cracks and excessive wear.
4. Rotate distributor shaft. It should move freely, without binding.
5. Remove No. 1 cylinder spark plug and rotate engine clockwise until No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke.
6. With No. 1 piston on compression stroke, align timing pointer with TDC on the crankshaft damper.

NOTE: To install distributor correctly, No. 1 piston must be at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.

7. Align locating boss on rotor with hole on armature. Fully seat rotor on distributor shaft.
8. Rotate distributor shaft so blade on rotor is pointing toward mark on distributor base that was previously made.
9. While installing distributor, continue rotating rotor slightly so leading edge of the vane is centered in vane switch stator assembly.
10. Rotate distributor in block to align leading edge of vane and vane switch stator assembly. Verify rotor is pointing at No. 1 mark on distributor base.

NOTE: If vane and vane switch stator cannot be aligned by rotating distributor in cylinder block, remove distributor enough to disengage distributor gear from camshaft gear. Rotate rotor enough to engage distributor gear on another tooth of camshaft gear. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.

11. Install distributor hold-down clamp and bolt. Tighten bolt, but leave it loose enough to rotate distributor.
12. Install distributor cap, No. 1 spark plug and ignition wires. Check that ignition wires are securely connected to the cap and spark plugs. Tighten distributor cap hold-down screws to 2.0-2.6 Nm (18-23 in-lb).
13. Reconnect distributor to wiring harness.
14. Set initial timing.
15. After timing is set, tighten distributor hold-down bolt to 23-34 Nm (17-25 ft-lb).
6. Recheck initial timing. Adjust if necessary.


_________________________

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe

What is firing order on 93 5.o? Is it same as 90 5.o?

Yep, they are the same. I attached a couple pics. Hope they help.

Joe

What size is torx bit on intake?

Hi,

That is one I don't know off the top of my head. The manual doesn't provide that info, but usually those are around a T35.

___________________________

I don't know if you need them, but here are the directions for the 93 upper and lower intake removal and replacement. It includes torque specs. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

__________________________

1993 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L
Upper
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Service and Repair Procedures Upper
UPPER
WARNING: DO NOT SMOKE, CARRY LIGHTED TOBACCO OR OPEN FLAME OF ANY TYPE WHEN WORKING ON OR NEAR ANY FUEL-RELATED COMPONENT, HIGHLY FLAMMABLE MIXTURES ARE ALWAYS PRESENT AND MAY BE IGNITED, RESULTING IN POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

Upper Intake Manifold and Throttle Body

Removal

1. Disconnect electrical connectors at idle air control valve , throttle position sensor and EGR position sensor.
2. Disconnect throttle linkage at throttle ball. Disconnect AOD (5.0L only) or C6 (5.8L only) transmission linkage from throttle body. Remove two bolts securing throttle linkage bracket to intake. Position bracket with cables out of way.

CAUTION: When disconnecting throttle cable from ball stud, use a screwdriver or similar tool close to the stud and pry slowly. Pulling by hand may damage the cable.

3. Disconnect upper intake manifold vacuum fitting connections by disconnecting all vacuum lines to vacuum tree, vacuum lines to EGR valve and vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator.
4. Disconnect PCV system by disconnecting hose from fitting on rear of upper manifold.
5. On Econoline models, remove the oil fill tube.
6. Remove canister purge line(s) from fitting(s) on throttle body.
7. Disconnect water heater lines from the throttle body.
8. Disconnect EGR tube from EGR valve by removing flange nut.
9. Remove bolt from upper intake support bracket to upper manifold.
10. Remove six upper intake manifold retaining bolts.
11. Remove upper intake and throttle body as an assembly from lower intake manifold.

Installation

1. Clean and inspect the mounting faces of the lower and upper intake manifolds.
2. Position new gasket on lower intake mounting face. The use of alignment studs may be helpful.
3. Install upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly to lower manifold making sure gasket remains in place (if alignment studs are not used).
4. Install six upper intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten to 17-24 Nm (12-18 ft-lb).
5. Install upper intake support bracket to upper manifold attaching bolt.
6. Install EGR tube. Tighten flange nuts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 ft-lb).
7. Install canister purge lines to fittings on throttle body.
8. Connect water heater lines to the throttle body.
9. Connect PCV hose to rear of upper manifold.
10. Install oil fill tube (Econoline models).
11. Connect vacuum lines to vacuum tree, EGR valve and fuel pressure regulator.
12. Position throttle linkage bracket with cables to upper intake manifold. Install two retaining bolts and tighten to 11-13 Nm (8-10 ft-lb). Connect throttle cable and transmission cable to throttle body.
13. Connect electrical connectors at idle air control valve , TP sensor and EGR position sensor.


pic 1

_____________________________________


1993 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup V8-302 5.0L
Lower
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Service and Repair Procedures Lower
LOWER
1. Drain cooling system, then remove air cleaner with intake duct assembly and crankcase ventilation hose.
2. Disconnect accelerator cable and speed control linkage (if equipped) from carburetor or throttle body. Remove accelerator cable bracket, then disconnect kickdown rod from carburetor or throttle body on models equipped with automatic transmission. Disconnect electric choke, carburetor solenoid electrical connectors or EEC connector, if equipped.
3. Disconnect high tension lead and wires from ignition coil.
4. Disconnect ignition wires from spark plugs, then remove wires and bracket assembly from rocker arm cover attaching stud.
5. Remove distributor cap and ignition wires as an assembly.
6. Disconnect fuel inlet line from carburetor or throttle body.
7. Disconnect vacuum hoses from distributor, then remove distributor and disconnect evaporative hoses, if equipped.
8. Disconnect upper radiator hose from coolant outlet housing.
9. Disconnect electrical connector from coolant temperature sending unit, then remove heater hose from intake manifold.
10. Remove water pump bypass hose from coolant outlet housing, then disconnect crankcase vent hose from rocker arm cover.
11. Remove intake manifold attaching bolts, then the intake manifold and carburetor as an assembly. On models with EFI remove manifold as follows:
a. Remove upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly.
b. Remove lower intake manifold assembly.
c. It may be necessary to carefully pry the intake manifold from the cylinder heads. Remove manifold gaskets and seals and discard intake manifold attaching bolt sealing washer.

Fig. 13 Intake manifold installation

Pic 2

Fig. 14 Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence

pic 3


12. Reverse procedure to install. Apply sealer as shown in Fig. 13. Tighten manifold attaching bolts to specifications in sequence shown in Fig. 14.

_________________________

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Can I disconnect smog pump and her valve?

EGR valve.

I'm not sure what you are asking. Both engine should have an EGR, correct? And the air / smog pump is needed to complete unburned exhaust gases.

Let me know. Sorry, not being there makes it a bit more tricky.

Joe

My 90 model engine didn't have smog pump.