Drivers side cold, passenger hot for heat

Hi,

Do me a favor. If it fails again, check to see if there is power to the actuator you replaced. Also, are you sure you got the right actuator motor? I attached a pic below and highlighted the one in question.

I know that these actuators are self calibrating. Maybe that is what required the extra time. Let me know if it is still giving you trouble.

Let me know.
Joe

I went out this morning to test. Cold on driver side again. Put climate control all the way down to 60, 2 times. Then heard clicking behind radio area then the heat came on to the drivers side. As far as the actuator, I went off of the one that was in there and got the same part number. Does the actuator by the drivers side leg area control a door behind the radio/dash area?

Hi,

If you hear a clicking, most always, it is one of the teeth broke off the actuator motor and skips.

I attached a pic below. Here is a list which is a legend identifying the components related to the HVAC. Take a look at it to see if there is anything close to where you heard the noise. Please keep in mind, a sensor won't make a clicking. It has to be a motor.

Here is the list:

1 - B7J Air Temperature Sensor - Duct Right Upper
2 - B39 A/C Evaporator Temperature Sensor
3 - M4 Air Inlet Actuator
4 - M46 Air Recirculation Actuator Motor
5 - K8 Blower Motor Control Module
6 - M8 Blower Motor
7 - K33 HVAC Control Module
8 - B7D Air Temperature Sensor - Duct Left Lower
9 - M6L Air Temperature Door Actuator - Left
10 - M37 Mode Door Actuator
11 - B7H Air Temperature Sensor - Duct Left Upper
12 - M6R Air Temperature Door Actuator - Right
13 - B7E Air Temperature Sensor - Duct Right Lower

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Let me know.

Joe

Sounds somewhere in the area of 11. Behind the radio area if I am looking at it right.

If that is the area, then I would suspect it's actually number 10. That is a mode door actuator and not a blend door. That is responsible for air flow direction.

Tell me. Is it possible for you to have a helper turn the temp controller to cause the noise while you try touching the actuators to see if you can feel it vibrate or grind?

Joe

Yes I can try that. I assume I can see it up above the other actuator on the drivers side?

Okay, I think #9 is the actuator I already replaced. Is #10 an actuator with a gear on it? I just went out and looked to see what all moved.

Yes, number 10 is the mode door actuator. It is an electric motor which has plastic gears inside.

Let me know what you find,

Joe

Tried to take a picture of the one I see. I dont see that it turns when I change the temp setting. It connects to some white gears.

I believe that is the mode door actuator. It should change if you switch air flow direction.

Let me know.

Joe

Any way to find out if 9 and 12 are the same number? I know when I replaced them they gave me the same part. Just curious if it may have been the wrong one. Door mode is working fine so dont think that is it. Has to be something to do with changing the temperature on the climate control.

Hi,

I went to an auto parts store site and looked up both. They are the same part number. Do you think you may have replaced the wrong one? Hopefully, you still have the old actuator. If you don't, switch the two that are still in the vehicle to confirm they are the same and it makes the temp work correctly.

Joe

I do have the old one. The left and right were the same so wanted to make sure. I may swap them and see if maybe the new one I got was bad.

That sounds like a plan. Let me know what happens.

Take care,
Joe

So switched them, but it's been warmer so didn't have any issues. This morning it was colder so tried it out. Didn't work until changing temperature up and down then sounded like door opened. I did get under there and it is the actuator making that clunking type noise. So would the it possibly be the door sticking until the actuator moves it a couple times or until warm? If that makes sense..

Yes, that could be the issue. Were you able to inspect the plastic gears to make sure nothing is broken? When you hear the skipping, that is usually the cause. A broke tooth or two on the plastic gears. Read the intro to this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

This may sound stupid, but I miss the old days. If there was an issue, either a cable broke or came loose. It was always cheap and easy to fix.

Regardless, let me know what you determine. Also, have a great and safe New Year's Eve!

Take care,
Joe

The plastic gears I see which change the direction have all the teeth. The clicking noise is coming from the actuator as I can feel it like catching on something when it makes ththe noise. Hope you had a good new years! And yes I miss the "old" stuff myself. Hence why my race car pull truck is an old diesel. Lol

That sounds like fun. What kind of car is it you race?

As far as the actuator, if you feel it, there is a good chance the internals of it have failed. There is a gear on the motor that may be bad or even something could be letting it move around and not make good contact.

Let me know.

Joe

Raced a Monte Carlo on dirt track for about 15 years.. was first female in my area to do so. About 11 years ago my daughter started and now we both race fwd Sunfire ecotechs. :)
Thanks! I did buy a spare actuator just in case. I will try installing it and see what it does. While out I may look around up there to make sure everything else looks good. Not sure what it looks like where the actuator installs but wonder if that area where it goes in is stripped a bit?

That is really interesting. Do you race on a dirt track?

Now, you made a good point. When you remove the actuator, take a mechanic's mirror and see if anything is damaged on the door. Hopefully that won't be the case.

Take care and if you get the chance, let me know.

We race in an 3/8 dirt track. :)
I haven't taken it apart yet but what is also odd, is it only does it when the weather is below 35. Above that the actuator works fine and makes no noise at all. I just did a reset with the fuse to see what it does when it's cold in the morning. I may then put in the other one I have.

I wonder if the plastic is contracting in the cold and causing a poor connection. Since you have one, I would try it to see if it changes the way it reacts.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Changed it out to another new one. Does the same sound and reacts the same. Like a door is sticking when cold. I did look into there to make sure not stripped and looked fine. Next option would be to see if I can manually move the opening with the actuator out maybe when cold?

I hate to say it, but I feel that is what needs done. I'm sure you are about tired of crawling around under the dash, but something is sticking and causing the issue. I feel you confirmed that with the different actuator doing the same thing with the same noise.

If you have the chance, let me know what you find.

Joe

I am actually going to take apart one of the other actuators and use it to see if the door will move. Do you by chance have a diagram of what the doors in there look like? Tried Googling and not getting anything. Thanks!

So while doing some searching, it appears there are 2 different Dorman numbers that the actuator could be. 604-315 or 604-700. Quite a but of price difference but very similar looking. Wonder if I am getting the wrong one. Or what the difference would be?

Hi,

I looked on Dorman's website and found that one is for air temp and the other is a fresh air door actuator. Take a look at the two pics below. You need the 604-700. Which one did you get?

Joe

Was supposed to be the 700 when ordered but actually looks like the other ones markings. It was not an actual Dorman #. I may just order an actual Dorman one that way i know its right. Then when I install I can see if the door is actually hanging up.

How do actuators work? they look interesting when taken apart. Anyhow, when you have the heat on and turn your car off do they "retract" back to the original position or for instant put the door back to "cold"?

Hi,

An actuator is nothing more than a small motor which moves a door via a gear assembly. Now, there are different types. Your vehicle has the electric type. When you turn the power off, it should stay in the same position. On the other hand, there are vacuum operated actuators as well. If there is any type of engine vacuum leak, the actuator may reverse if pressure is lost when the engine is turned off.

As far as the actuator itself, something is different between the two. You indicated it was supposed to be the 700. What brand did you get? I know Dorman parts are usually a really good replacement part. Some of the things you can get online at lower prices are a bit sketchy.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe

Thanks! That's what I kinda thought. It appears the one I am getting, which supposedly cross references to the 700 may not be the right one. It seems like the door is going back to its "cold" position and not retaining where it was at when car was shut off. Therefore on cold mornings its having to "open" it back up. The one I got did not come with a GM or dorman number on it so makes me think it was being sold as the wrong one. I had ordered online. But now seeing the price difference I should have known. :)

Let me know if the new one corrects the issue. I will keep my fingers crossed.

Take care,
Joe

So just did a little test since new partner here yet. Just unplugged it so wouldn't go back cold setting. Now stays hot so has to be actuator I would think. Since weather is real cold may leave it until I get new one. :)

Absolutely, that sounds like a plan. Let me know how things turn out for you, and by the way, great idea.

Joe

Joe F. My sister's car 2011 Buick Regal and doing the same thing on the driver's side. We don't know how to work on this ourselves and between Tuffy and a Buick dealer charging $1,500.00 it still doesn't work. When the fan is on it blows air on both sides just not warm on drivers side only when the temperatures are below 15 degrees.

I came to the conclusion that on mine the door is sticking. I have not had it torn apart yet as you have to pretty much tear the whole console out. Ugh. So just have dealt with it.

Hi,

Are both of these vehicles the same model year? Both sound related to the blend air door. Dakeller, what was done to the vehicle for 1500.00 dollars? Is it only the driver's side that doesn't change temp? Lavacin, let me know what you are referring to. When you say the console needs to be removed, I'm questioning if there is an easier way.

Let me know. Also, it may be better if you both start new threads. I will struggle trying to focus on two different issues on the same thread. It will likely delay responses.

Here is the link to start a new post:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Take care and I look forward to hearing from you.

Joe

Yes, mine is a 2011 also. May be called and air blend door if that's what the actuator moves? I have replaced actuator a couple of times and door still sticks below 35 degrees.

Hi,

It sounds like the actuator is failing due to the door being stiff when cold. When you removed the blend air door actuator, did you check to see if the door was free? You may want to lubricate where the actuator mounts to see if that helps. Also, you could work the door manually to loosen it.

Let me know.

Joe

How can you find out if the door is free? And what would you suggest lubricating it? I assume put it in where the actuator goes in.