Engine will not crank over?

Hello,

It sounds like you have a starter motor that has gone out, Here is a guide to help us confirm the problem using a test light. Check out toward the bottom.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

This guide will give you an idea on how to change the starter motor out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

You will need to raise the car up safely.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Here is what repalcement the starter will be like on your car (Below) I have diagrams for both engines

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 4x4 - with remote control start. I didn't drive it for a while so we had to jump it and it worked fine. After doing this 2 or 3 times (within a 6 month period) - we jumped it and drove it a bit, then turned it off as usual. The next day we put a charger on it for a couple of house - tried it and it wouldn't start so we tried to jump it again and nothing - no click from the solenoid - instrument panel lights up and works fine - lots of juice in the battery - took it to a dodge dealer and they tried replacing the unit that reads the key in the ignition, the tpin(?) and the fuse panel. Still no go. Have you run across this problem before? Thanks!

Go to this link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over

please help. got it my truck started up then stalled. started it again, it ran for a few seconds then stalled again. after the 4th attempt, nothing at all. the engine would not turn over. still have plenty of power for lights etc. there is no theft deterant system on the truck. any suggestions. could it be the fuel system.

could be how i check is remove air filter. If you can get the breather tube off at the carburator that is ideal. spray in starting fluid. If truck starts but dies. that would lean to fuel pump. Next you would have to check your relays for fuel pump and automatic shutdown device (ASD). Also checking for a blown fuse can save you some money too.

You mentioned that it won't do anything. Is the starter not working either?

When you turn key to on dash lights up except volt gauge and no fuel pump when you turn key to start nothing. I checked wires on alternator plug black wire has ground green wire nothing ran 12 volts to green wire when I do this fuel pump comes on and fuel gauge works and truck starts up.

u need to ck. for 12 volts at the red wire on the back of the alternator.u got very lucky probing that green wire.never do that it can cause fire or a lot of damage. something isn't sending voltage properly. ussally power is sent on red or orange wires only. hopefully we can track this down without to much trouble. is this a 1500 2500 or 3500.

The large wire that bolts to alternator has voltage from battery. The pig tail plug has 2 wires a black one that is showing ground and a dark green one that's shows nothing.that's the wire I put switched power on and volt gauge on dash started working and fuel pump came on truck started up. It is a 1500 2wd

START BY CHECKING THE OUTER MAXI FUSE PANEL UNDER THE HOOD, THEN THE ONE INSIDE FOR SIGNS OF VOLTAGE.SOMETHING HAS TO BE BLOWN. THE OWNER MANUAL WILL DIRECT U TO THE FUSE PANELS. IT SOUND LIKE A MAXI FUSE UNDER THE HOOD. I WILL START RESEARCHING WHY IT STARTED WHEN U JUMPED THE GREEN WIRE.

I have check all fuses and relays under good all check good can't find any inside. I think green wire goes to ecm but don't no what location to check there thought maybe a fuse link in wire or broke wire .

Recently ive been hearing a slight engine ticking noise. Today it was pouring when i went through a large puddle, i stopped at a store shortly after, came back 10 mins later and the truck won't start. Im getting full power on dash, no check engine light, it starts to turn over then sounds like it just locks up, i think i can hear solenoid starting but can't be positive that's what I'm hearing. Don't know if the puddle is irrelevant or this is from the ticking rattling noise. Is there anything i can try to get it out of this parking lot besides pushing it?

OK ALL THE FUSE LINK WIRES ARE AT THE STARTER CK. THEM THEIR.

first mistake was driving through the puddle you probably got water in one of the modules. Check items in pic although I'm not sure you can check relay as it may be built into power module

They check good at starter

all the maxi fuses ck. good on both side of the fuse.recheck them

They check good another thing is when you hook scan tool up it says link error after connecting voltage to green wire on alternator then scanner will connect

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Dodge Ram V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 106000 miles

When it get's below 40 at night my truck won't start in the morning. It doesn't even crank or try to turn over. It is completely dead. I have to jump start it. The colder it is the longer it takes to start. Once it starts, it runs fine and turns over fine all day no matter how cold it is. I replaced the battery thinking that was the problem. I had the alternator, starter and the electrical system all tested, they check out fine. About two weeks before it got cold my horn went out, it started beeping all by itself and then quit working completely. I thought there might be some kind of short that was slowly draining the battery so I pulled the horn fuse but that didn't help. Any suggestions?

If it jump starts, there has to be a corroded connection. Have you checked the ground to the engine block, terminals on the starter, battery terminals...?

ok there is a fuse panel in the dash. sounds like when u open the l/f door u will see fuse panel cover in the end of the dash. on the right side under the glove box near the kick panel there is another one.

ck. this i think it was for a different year i'm still researching bbl

Can't find any other fuses

your loosing power some where i can't tell where. are u sure the anti theft system isn't set? go to the ignition switch and ck. for proper voltage to the switch if ok ck. for start signal going to the starter from the switch.

Theft light is off have power at starter relay when you turn key to start possion

Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Dodge Ram 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 85,000 miles

My truck has been having trouble staring the last few weeks. Sometimes I turned the key and nothing. The guages and lights all turn on and the battery is charged. After a few attempts, it would finally crank over. Yesterday, it did the same thing but in the middle of cranking is stopped and now won't crank at all. I replaced the starter selonoid relay but that didn't help. The battery is still charged. Any ideas on where to check next?

Welcome, did you check the voltage circuits at the starter relay? Unplug the relay, use a testlite, two hot terminals with key in the crank position.

If the starter has good voltage and ground at the starter and no starter action, then suspect the starter.

does the relay click? check for power at the starer because the start signal your getting at the relay is coming from the ignition switch.

Using a voltmeter I found that there wasn't power getting to the relay when the key was in the crank position. Does this mean that the ignition is bad or is there another fuse/relay that could cause this?

Edit: After a few more attempts to trouble shoot the problem, I heard a clicking under the hood when turning the key to the crank position. I put the starter relay back in and it fired right up. I'm worried that it will stop cranking again as randomly as it started. Any ideas?

It doesn't click swapped relay still nothing I can prove transmission relay and it does the same as green wire on alternator truck cranks up

At the relay, terminal 30 is hot all the time. Terminal 87 goes hot with key in the crank position. If you have no voltage anywhere, check fuse 14--30 amp and fuse 20--25 amp. Not only check the fuse, use a testlite and check fuse circuit. Also, you should be able to crank it by using a jumper wire from battery voltage, with inline fuse, to relay pin 87. If you try that, make sure the tranny is in park or neutral and the e-brake is set. Any testing has to be when the problem is ongoing. If you try the jumper, do use an inline fuse.

if u mean probe then the relay has to click then. goodnight for today

Terminal 30 had 12V but Terminal 87 did not when the key was in the crank position. Fuse 14 and 20 are both good. The truck started when I jumpered 30 and 87. After that I rechecked terminal 87 and when turned the key I heard the clicking under the hood. That's when I replaced the relay and started it right up. It hasn't given me any problems since but I don't know how long that will last. I looked at a circuit diagram and think the ignition switch may be going out but I'm not sure.

PLEASE CK. THE IGNITION SWITCH ON THE STEERING COLUMN. SEE IF YOUR GETTING A START SIGNAL WITH THE KEY IN START POSITION. AND CK. FOR PROPER VOLTAGE TO THE SWITCH.

Terminal 30 and 87 are the switch side of relay. When the relay energizes, terminal 87 gets voltage from terminal 30. Terminal 30 is hot all the time. Terminals 85 and 86 are for the coil side of relay, one goes hot with key in the crank position, the other is ground.

I was driving my truck and at times my lights would dim the volt gauge would drop and certain dash lights would flicker. Now the starter will not turn or even attempt.

I have power coming from my ignition switch when I turn ignition to crank position. Ive replaced starter relay. Checked all fuses. No power at the yellow wire on starter solenoid. When I remove the relay and jump wires to make starter crank it still doesn't start. Am I having PCM issues. I just had a new motor installed less than 500 miles ago.

check fuses 20 and 14 then try resetting security system if no manual look online.if still not starting make sure battery is in good condition including load test. most places check for free.

I've checked all my fuses. I don't have a security system. Battery is brand new. There is no power going to the solenoid wire can my PCM be bad. Changed relay also

ALL vehicles built since the late 90s have a security system-anti theft and it knocks out certain systems depending on manufacture like fuel /ignition or no start. pcm will only stop if security is engaged.

Why would certain dash lights dim while driving and headlights dim

might be a bad belt and tensioner which recommended replacement for both is 60k as well as dirty battery terminal ends or it may be Chryslers fantastic integrated power module which controls about everything in a vehicle and goes bad as well