hard to start

99 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 gasoline V-8. Hard to start, acts like timing is wrong, starter cant turn over the engine. Then will start and run with foot on gas. New battery, new starter, recently tuned up. Unplug battery cable to reset computer. Then it will turn over and crank if you give it gas. Must keep foot on gas pedal to keep it running after it starts. I think its a sensor - but which one? TPS/CSPS/MAP?

Any applicable trouble codes? You should have checked for codes before you did anything If the starter won't crank, see if you can turn the crankshaft by hand, pull the spark plugs and accessory belt/s if you have to. If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure.

If it is just an idle issue, clean the throttle-body and idle air system.

Auto zone shows no codes. It is not an idle issue, it is a timing issue. After it finally cranks, I keep foot on gas pedal, but have found that is not always necessary. Will run forever, until I kill the engine. Kill it - it may re-crank with no problem or it may act like the starter cant turn over the engine.

FYI - I have not done anything because of this new issue. The starter was out because of the solonoid, the tune up and battery were because it was due, and a new O2 sensor was because of a code (check engine light). All these things were done months ago. This hard starting issue is brand new issue.

Do a compression test. Check your timing chain.

Hi there, I have a 97 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 with 5.9L engine and 120,000 miles. The vehicle is only driven 1-2 times per month for 20 -30 miles each time. All of a sudden the vehicle won't start without engine starting fluid. It idles rough for 1-2 minutes and then when it starts to warm up, runs fine. There is no hesitation once it is warm if I stomp the accelerator out on the road so it seems to be getting plenty of fuel. Someone at work mentioned the crank position sensor. No codes in the PCM. Also, what is the difference between the Crank position sensor and the crank angle sensor?

Thank you,
Drew McLendon

There is no difference. That might not be a bad place to start. Get back to me

The compression check is great, the spark plugs look great (and they are new ones and new wires with new cap and rotor). If it was the timing chain, wouldnt this happen all the time? Instead - this an intermittent problem that happens usually after driving it for a while (after it has warmed Up). If it sits overnight - it will crank right up, just dont kill it unless you are ready for this issue to possibly happen.

Jack,

According to my local parts store, I have both on my 97 Dodge Ram, a crank position sensor ($39.99) and a crank angle sensor ($69.99 w/ a core charge)
They also showed me both.... the angle sensor is round and and flat 3/4 inch thick and about the same diameter as the distr. The crank position sensor is about the same size as a thumb and has a mounting bracket on the base. Other than a wire harness attached, they are two separate items. Why would the Dodges have both if they are the same thing?
Also, **IF** I can get the truck started would it be beneficial to take it to the dodge dealer? Can they see a fault in these sensors without the check engine light being on??

Thanks,
Drew McLendon

Your the one that said it was timing? Check for spark at the plugs when problem is ongoing. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Your bouncing all over the place. I guess I would have to look at it.

Chrysler is funny about those, Jeeps use the same one. One is in the dist. under the rotor. The other in the bell housing

My shop manual says that the timing is controlled by sensors that send a signal to the PCM. This truck would run from Texas to California as long as you dont kill it and try and start it soon after killing it. It may start right up, or it may act like a timing problem. If you un-hook the battery cable for a minute and try the starter it will crank up with the foot on gas pedal.

You do not think it is a sensor? Crankshaft or camshaft sensor?

COULD THIS, OR INSIDE IT'S PORT NEED A GOOD CLEANING?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Idle-Air-Control-Valve/1999-Dodge-RAM-2500-3-4-ton-4WD/_/N-jdlw2Z9gsof?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=IAC&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=68626_127739_0_

THE MEDIC

Crank position sensor fixed mine. Just would not start sometimes, but ran okay when it did. Ran me about $150.00 for the part and to have it installed.

When I turn the key on, the fuel pump continually runs. I use to be able to let the truck sit for 20 minutes with the key on for the fuel pump to shut off before I could start it. After running for awhile,I
can turn the truck right off and then right back on with no problem. If let it sit for awhile I'm back where I started.I've noticed that when I'm able to start it the GEN light comes on and off. Lately though it has been taking longer to start all the way to draining the battery at this point I jump start it and it will usually start. When it is running it runs strong.

Parts replaced:ALT, ING switch., crank and cam sensor,Distributor, rotor, coil, IAC, starter, ASD and fuel relay and fuel regulator. Cleaned every ground I could
find. Cleaned plenum. Checked all fuses with probe.
Also tried a new battery although I had the one in the truck tested which was good.



Again the problem is with starting not with running.

thanks, will give that a look.

Go here:
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/hard-to-start-90017915

Hope you found the issue.

this may be a shorted wire or pcm problem. see if the brn/wht wire is giving power all the time to relay if it is then it may be what i said. also scan for codes as well. and check grounds to pcm and body/battery

Have not had time to work on it, maybe this weekend.

Will post what is found. Thanks for all your help.

Here is an update on my truck, between working two jobs and what little time I have to work on it. All the wiring seems to be okay. It's happens that the pcm was in fact the problem. I found a place on line that programs the pcm before they ship it one of those plug in and drive. Once I did, I don't think the starter made a quarter turn before the truck fired right up. It's such a great feeling.

Thank you so much for your help. Thank you thank you.

No problem. Have a good day.

you still may have to have the security feature programmed into the pcm if it doesn't start again

My truck has a hard time starting after its been sitting while I'm at work or overnight. It seems like the pressure bleeds off. Thought it was the pump or regulator, so changed it out, regulator and pump since the regulator is on the pump, and it worked good for 1 week starting right up on the first try then went right back to the hard start. Once it starts, it runs fine. I can stop at a store, shut it off, come out and start it right back up. Only when I let it sit for a long period of time, its has a hard time starting. What should I be looking at next?

This is really strange. The issue is fixed. I replaced the water pummp (not related to this issue - but was leaking from weep hole). I put back together still would not crank. The battery seemed low, so I switched to an x-tra battery from my boat. The truck cranked right up. I checked the alternator (14.5 volts) its good. I switched the batteries back to the old one. The truck cranked right up again. My wife got me an Innova 3130 scanner tool. I hooked it up, still no codes. I have test drove three times, no issues and acts like nothing wrong.

I probably should suspect a crankshaft sensor/or bad battery will show itself in the future. Will have to wait and see, but no issues in the meantime. Very Strange?

Most likely suspect is a leaking fuel injector. You have to pull the fuel rail off with the injectors still connected, then watch for one that's leaking.

To aid in starting, turn the ignition switch to "run", then back off, then to "run" again, then crank the engine. Each time you do that, the fuel pump will run for one second. Doing that multiple times is needed to get the pressure up for starting. During cranking, battery voltage drops quite a bit so the pump will run rather slowly. That makes it harder to reach the pressure needed.

If you do have to replace an injector, it is suggested they all be replaced at the same time. Rebuilt injectors are sold in flow-matched sets. Chrysler buys their injectors from Bosch in flow-matched sets so they have extremely little trouble with them. GM doesn't check theirs. They just toss in a handful from a bin of injectors, then, with high mileage, they start to flow different fuel volumes and that leads to elusive misfire fault codes even though the engine seems to be running just fine.

So could anyone do that or just the dealer

Your scanner should also give live engine data. When the engine is warmed up and running ok, write down all the sensor readings, fuel trims, everything. That way you will have some base readings, the next time you have a problem. That scanner should also have freeze frame data, shows what was going on when the problem occured. It's not guaranteed that the scanner will solve the problem, but, a good place to start.

a garage with a pro scanner can do this. but if it starts don't worry about it.

Back to what you said initially

"new battery won't turn over the engine"

Changed battery worked

Changed back to other battery works

Sounds like you have a loose, corroded connection near the battery---you may have "jiggled" you a decent path for the voltage to follow while playing w/ the batteries

If not dealt with/ may let you down again

Think maybe it could be that simple???

The medic

Ok that's good to know. I really do not want to deal with the dealership. But for now it fires right up.

Thank you

Yeah, that's a good thought, CJ.

Let us know if you have any more problems

You have a good point, will check it. Thanks for all ya'll help.

Anything for a fellow southerner

Even more if you had a real jeep!

The medic

Check the choke opening, fast idle and A/F mixture adjustment and curb idle speed -start here

I did find the battery cable loose at the battery post. You guys nailed it.

spray starting spray in the intake does it start rite up?

[quote:9dcebdd1df="wikohika"]My dodge ram 74 one day while driving just cut out with no warning, and when you try to start it, it is extremely hard to start. Sometimes you have to wait a while before it starts backup. The engine cranks but doesnt fire. When it does start it drives for about 5mins(well it has its mind of its own), the engine just cuts out, I dont think its a fuel problem, but a electrical problem. Ive since changed the distributor cap, rotor,coil, spark plugs, igntion leads. Any ideas on this problem would be really appreciated! Thanks[/quote:9dcebdd1df]

Maybe a failing fuel pump-recommend check the fuel pressure then comeback

Hello to all. The truck has 60,000 miles. The problem is that it developed a prolonged cranking time issue about two years ago when the engine is warm. It starts every time, but it would crank for up to 15 seconds before it would start. When cold, it would fire right up. About a year ago, it reversed itself. Now when cold, it takes 5 to 10 seconds to start. When warm, it starts immediately. It has a new battery and cranks strong all the time. I can hear the fuel pump firing up when the key is turned to on position. Any ideas? If you need more info, let me know. Plugs, wires, serpentine belt changed at 50,000 miles. It does have a very slight, noticed only in the tach, drop in RPM at idle. And it pings like an SOB under load. Dealer says it is supposed to do that. Even gave me a print out stating this. I don't know if this helps, but I wanted to give as much info as possible.

Has a fuel pressure test ever been done on the truck? If the pump is a little weak, then it might not be able to keep up causing a lean condition, and possibly pinging. If it is weak it would also explain the excessive cold cranking