hard to start

Actually, the problem sounds like you are losing the fuel pressure prim when the engine is shut. Here is a how to for checking fuel pressure, regulator, and drop off. When you shut the key, the pressure should hold steady. If it drops quickly to 0PSI, we need to check for a leak, fuel filter anti flow back valve, bad fuel pump, or regulator. Check it and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

NOTE: You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them to you.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

truck will start some of the time but only after a lot of cranking and hitting the gas several times

Possible coolant temp sensor? If the engine computer thinks it's warmer than it really is, it will not command a sufficient priming squirt from the injectors. Look for the two-wire sensor. The single-wire temp sensor is for the gauge on the dash. Chrysler doesn't have much trouble with temperature sensors; Ford has a lot.

Also possible low fuel pressure or the pump isn't starting right away. GM trucks won't run at all if the fuel pressure is just a few pounds low. Dodge trucks will run, but may develop problems such as yours.

If fuel pressure is bleeding off while the trucks sits for a while, suspect a leaking injector. You can prove this by cycling the ignition switch on for a few seconds without cranking the engine. Turn it back of, wait five seconds, turn it on again, and maybe do this a third time. Every time you turn it on, the fuel pump will run for two seconds, then stop until the engine computer sees engine rotation, (cranking or running). These two or three bursts from the pump will insure pressure is up and ready for starting. If it starts right away now, an injector is leaking, or the pressure regulator or pump check valve is leaking. I think by 2003, your regulator is in the tank, not on the fuel rail on the engine. I would just live with those because of the cost of a new fuel pump assembly, but if it's a leaking injector, raw fuel will be dumped into the intake manifold after you shut the engine off. The fuel could run down past the piston rings into the oil, reducing its lubricating properties. This isn't quite as critical if you do a lot of long trip driving, like 15 - 20 or more miles. Long trips with the engine fully warmed up will tend to vaporize the fuel in the oil. It will get drawn out through the PCV valve and burned.

caradiodoc

Engine struggles to start after sitting for a period of 4-6 hours or more. The problem is very intermittent. It may happen today and then not happen again for a month. Not sure, but wet conditions seem to trigger the problem. (rainy, damp weather) I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor already. Problem still exists. Fuel pump seems to be operating just fine. I have tried turning the key 6-8 times before starting and doesn't help. After it starts, it runs perfect and continues to start fine all day.

Have you tried replacing the ignition wires?

Thanks for the feedback. I have not done that yet. Could moisture in any way effect the ignition wires?

Nonetheless, I will give it a try.

Thank you.

Yes it can. As far as the wires, they could have too much resistance in them which can cause a weak spark. Add water to the mixture, and they can arc and short.

Check it out and let me know what you find.

The truck takes approximately 3 cranks before starting. Once it starts it's fine. This occurs everytime I get in the vehicle. The engine light is on as well. What is the problem? I have tried several things and nothing works including changing the spark plugs. Please advise! Thanks!

Check fuel pressure
also need to check for codes
an OBDII reader should help
most local part stores can help in getting the codes

I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. After the truck sits for a period of time it is hard to start. If I turn the key on and off a few times and let the fuel pump cycle before starting it will fire right up. Do I need a new fuel pump?

what is a period of time?

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs-seems to me its losing fuel pressure due to a leaky injector/s, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump check valve

My trucks motor will turn over but its takes awhile for it to fire and when it does it runs real rough for about 20 seconds. I've replaced the crankshaft sensor twice. When you get it started you can let it run for a minute and turn it off and it'll start right back up but if you let it sit awhile it'll mess up again. When you get it started its also not idling right...the RPMs just go to zero unless I hold down the accelerator.

The first thing I recommend checking is the fuel pump pressure. See if it is within the manufacturer's specs. Also, see if it is dropping off quickly when you turn the key off and if it is building pressure quickly when you first turn the key on.

As far as the idle issue, it could be a vacuum leaks, the idle air control valve... Wait to see what the fuel pressure turns out to be and then we can move on.

Let me know what you find.

My 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 engine never starts on the first crank and always starts on the second crank. If I restart in 10 minutes or so, it starts right up. Any longer, then it's back to 2 cranks. The fuel pressure jumps right up to 45PSI when the key is turned to the on position. But it drops right down to 0 after the key is turned off. Is this normal? Shouldn't the fuel rail always have some kind of pressure reading?

Should have included this info.
No codes...I checked
Truck runs fine except for the hard start condition. The plugs are fairly new...Bosch Platinum.

The fuel pressure running should be between 44 and 54 PSI. When you shut it, the pressure shouldn't drop below 30 PSI for 5 minutes. If it does drop, you have a leak. Try this:

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Next, clamp off rubber hose portion of fuel line pressure test adapter between fuel rail and test port T on fuel line pressure tester adapter. Note shut engine when you clamp the rubber hose. If the pressure does not fall below 30 PSI within 5 minutes, the fuel rail or an injector is leaking. Next, do the same, but place the clamp between the rubber hose of the fuel line pressure tester adapter and the fuel line and test port T on fuel line pressure tester adapter. If it doesn't fall, the injectors and fuel rail is good. That leaves a fuel pump check valve, fuel pressure regulator check valve or a leak in the fuel line.

Note: A slow pressure leak usually indicates a bad check valve in the fuel pump. A quick drop usually indicates a bad check valve in the fuel filter or regulator.

Let me know if this helps and what you find.

Joe

If the fuel rail was leaking, I would have definitely seen this so I think I can rule that out. I think I understand what you what me to do. You want me to isolate the injectors from the fuel rail back to the pump module to see which is causing the sudden pressure drop. Just so we're on the same page...when the truck is running, the pressure is ~51PSI so I think we're good there. When I shut the truck off, the pressure drops to 0 PSI immediately. So either an injector is staying open or the fuel pressure regulator / filter/ check valve is faulty. So with the engine running and the pressure gauge screwed in to the test port, clamp the rubber part of the fuel line just before the fuel rail then shut the engine off. If the pressure drops, then it's an injector. If not, then it's the pressure regulator on the fuel pump module, correct? I think that the way it dropped off immediately with my first test, it's going to be the pressure regulator. But I'll try the test you recommended tomorrow morning and let you know the results. Thanks!

You have been around cars for awhile to have understood what I said. Yes, I'm trying to determine which part of the system is leaking. I feel very confident the quick pressure bleed off is causing the hard start. I doubled checked it in the manual (Mitchell online) and all of the pressures I gave you are accurate. And the bleed of times are correct too.

Let me know what you find, and yes again, you nailed it.

Joe

I have the same problem on my 2001 Dodge Ram.
I had bosch platinum plugs with only about 10,000 miles on them when my truck would just up and stall, sometimes while driving at 60 mph, then start right back up. The local dodge mechanic said that magnum engines don't like platinum plugs. I changed plugs and no problems since.

I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 v8 5.9l 110,000 miles. I have a problem starting...i will crank for a few without it starting, then take the key out and try again and it usually fires right up sometimes not though. anyone that could help please

This is what I hate about this site.....UNLESS you donate to the site you usually never get an answer to your question......yeah this is a great site.

Hi Joe,

Couldn't really perform that test you suggested. The line supplying the fuel rail won't crimp, (too rigid). The speed at which the fuel pressure drops when I turn the truck off is pointing me back to the pump and the regulator valve, unless you have any other suggestions. I'm not sure but I don't think an injector would bleed off that quickly.

jlindeman
My truck isn't stalling. Although I have heard of some vehicles not liking the platinum plugs.

Thanks,
Joe

If you feel confident the rail isn't leaking, then I agree with you. I would start with the fuel filter and then the regulator. A bad check valve in the pump will leak down slower.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

The filter/regulator/check valve are all in one unit on top of the pump module. Since I'm going to drop the tank anyway, I'm going to change the pump module which will include the pump and the regulator. Don't want to drop it again. I'll let you know how that turns out, I'm planning to do it this weekend.

Joe

I don't blame you for wanting to do it all in one time. They are not too much fun to remove and replace. Just try to run as much gas out of it as you can so the tank is lighter.

Hell, on the second generation Dakota, I was able to remove the bed (easier access) to access the pump in 20 minutes, as long as I had someone to help lift it off, but the full size don't go that fast. Let me know.

Joe

Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Dodge Ram 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual

My 99 Dodge 2500 diesel has a trouble code of P0216(injection timing control circuit malfunctinon). What dous this mean to me.

Hey Joe, good news! The changing of the fuel pump module did the trick. The truck starts cold or hot like new on the first crank every time. I'm sure the pressure regulator / filter / check valve was the culprit, but changing the entire pump module was the only way to go. I'm now sure that the fuel in the rail was draining back to the tank evey time I shut the engine off, thereby creating the hard start condition. Thanks for all your help!!!

Joe

I am not a diesel guy but I looked up the code for you hope that help DTC P0216: FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING FAILURE (DIESEL) NOTE:DTC P0216: FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING FAILURE is monitored with ignition on. DTC may be stored in Engine Control Module (ECM) when ECM senses engine speed more than 300 RPM, and fuel command and timing control within predetermined parameters. Possible causes are: defective fuel injection pump, fuel injection pump gear not properly aligned, restricted fuel filter, restricted transfer pump inlet line. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If DTC SPECIFIC GOOD TRIP COUNTER displayed count is "0", go to step 3). If DTC SPECIFIC GOOD TRIP COUNTER count is not "0", go to next step. Ensure engine is on, with engine off. Using scan tool, read and record FREEZE FRAME data. Road test vehicle under conditions in FREEZE FRAME data. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If DTC SPECIFIC GOOD TRIP COUNTER displayed count changes to "0", go to next step. If DTC SPECIFIC GOOD TRIP COUNTER displayed count does not change to "0", test is complete. Using scan tool, read CALIBRATION DTCs. If DTC P0336: CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL, DTC P1287: FUEL INJ PUMP CONTROL SUPPLY VOLTAGE TOO LOW) or DTC P1690: FUEL INJECTION PUMP CKP SENSOR DOES NOT AGREE WITH ECM CKP is present, perform DTC P0336: CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL, DTC P1287: FUEL INJ PUMP CONTROL SUPPLY VOLTAGE TOO LOW, or DTC P1690: FUEL INJECTION PUMP CKP SENSOR DOES NOT AGREE WITH ECM CKP test. If DTCs are not present, go to next step. Ensure ignition is off. Check fuel injection pump gear for proper alignment. Align fuel injection pump gear as necessary. Perform TEST VER-5A (DIESEL). If fuel injection pump gear is properly aligned, go to next step. Ensure ignition is off. Install fuel pressure Test Fittings (AVU1-2) to fuel filter/water separator inlet and outlet ports. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge (6828) to test fitting at inlet port. Start engine and allow it to idle. Record fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be 10 psi (.69 kg/cm2 ) or more. Turn ignition off. Remove fuel pressure gauge from inlet port, and install on outlet port. Start engine and allow it to idle. Record fuel pressure. Fuel pressure at outlet port should be no more than 5 psi (.35 kg/cm2 ) less than inlet port pressure. If fuel pressure is not as specified, replace fuel filter/water separator. If fuel pressure is as specified, go to next step. Turn ignition off. Check fuel transfer pump fuel supply line for restrictions. Repair restriction in fuel supply line as necessary. Perform TEST VER-5A (DIESEL). If no restrictions exist, go to next step. At this time, fuel injection pump is assumed to be defective. Replace fuel injection pump good luck

Hi:
I'm sorry it took a few days to get back with you. I just got out of the hospital with one of the worst flus I ever had.

I'm glad it's fixed. And you're right, the fuel pressure was leaking back to the tank. If you have any questions in the future, let us know.

Joe

Dodge Ram 5.9L Hard starting after truck sits a few hours, it does start but cranks about 4 seconds or more, once it starts I can shut it off and it will start perfectlly as long as it does not sit long. Used to start up right away everytime. Checked fuel pressure had 44 PSI, got good spark, changed crankshaft sensor, checked camshaft sensor (per Haynes book) it checks good. Could it be compression?

With that mileage, I wouldn't think compression. Has the check engine light ever come on?

No check engine light, gas mileage seems to be down too

WHen you checked the fuel pressure, did the pressure drop off quickly when the key was off?

When I start my truck it will crank a long time before firing. it acts like it is flooded. once it has started it runs good. This started a month ago and is getting worse. I have had the crank sensor replaced but that did not help.

Check the actual fuel pressure this will tell you something what's going on within the fuel system.

Won't hurt to check the coolant temperature sensor and fuel pressure regulator/clogged return line

Pressure stays at 44-45 when I shut the key off and holds there for quite awhile (still there 15 min later). I just checked it again when I turn the key on I get 44-45 PSI when I start the truck the fuel pressure goes to 48-50 PSI. Is that normal or should I be looking at the fuel pressure reg? (The Haynes book says spec is 35-45 PSI) but I cannot find anything about PSI with engine running.

Hi:
Running the pressure should be between 44psi and 54psi. So, yours is perfect.

Ok... we have good spark, and now we know the fuel pressure is good. What else..... Check the egr to make sure there are no vacuum leaks and the valve is operatring properly (not stuck and seating) Next check for vacuum leaks. Check around intake, look for broken or damaged hoses. Have you ever checked the catylatic converter to see if it is plugging? Even though the check engine light isn't on, have you tried to scan for codes?

Let me know.

Joe

Found my problem (kinda feel dumb) When I changed the crankshaft sensor because it would not start I changed the cap an rotor and it started but was still hard starting so I started looking for another problem as you have read above then got to thinkin I haven't checked the spark plugs (about 60,000 miles on them) so on the way home from work stopped an bought plugs got home pulled the 1st one and it was pretty worn .071 gap all the rest about the same between .070 - .075 changed them, now starts like new and got my gas mileage back. Thanks for your help even though it was something I should have checked first.

We all miss something. Heck, when you said you had good spark, I assumed they were new, and we know what happens when we assume.

Take care, and if you have questions in the future, let us know.

Joe