Shut off while driving

It is missing one or a combination of fuel, spark and combustion. The engine light showed before the stall?

You need to start checking the basics. Spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it starts temporarily.

the engine light came on after it turned off. it has turned off since and the car has been running good til today(oct 28) it happen again and then it wouldnt start at all so i left it alone and lata on during the day i tried again and it turned on with the check engine light on.

I would start by checking the codes in the computer.

I have a 98 Intrepid i was on the freeway then all of a sudden it turned off with the check engine light on. I turned the car off waited for a few seconds and it would not turn back on. After sitting for about 5 minutes the car would start, but as soon as i step on the gas the car will shut off. THis happens if i try it in neutral as well.

Suspect fuel pump
checking fuel pressure would be my 1st step
let me know what do you have for pressure

I don't have the code i heard you can rent one its only 7:30 here so i have to wait a few hours. I heard you can do a series of turning the car off and on for a total of 3 times and the codes will show on the dash i'm not sure if that function works on 98 intrepids i know it works on the '02.

Yes you can cycle the ignition key on off on off on
read codes in the odometer area
or the check engine light will flash codes for u
(code 12 will * ** flash once pause and then flash twice code 23 will flash twice pause and then three flashes and so on )

good luck

My Intrepid will stop running while I am going down the road. The gauges all shut down and it's just like you turn off the ignition. If I wait about ten to fifteen minuets it will start up agian and go for a little while longer then do the same thing.

Hi eagle1ldr, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

This can be a complicated problem over the net but I'll attempt.

Start by checking the ignition switch, ASD relay, coil/ICM/crank and cam sensors and a fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter and fuel pump-Let me know

The oil light came on and right after the engine shut off. I tried to restart the engine but it would not turn over. I checked the oil and it was 3 qts low, 7 days earlier I put on 3/4 of a qt, I do alot of driving.
There was a smell under the hood, someone said it smelled like either burnt plastic or electrical. There was no knocking of the engine before it died and I did not hear a clunk or any noise at all. It is not leaking fluid. I am at a loss.

When you turn the key, do the lights on the dash come on? Have you checked to see if you are getting power to the starter?

My 1996 Intrepid just started a few months ago missing and stalling at any speed. Then it began to die while sitting idle at times. The oil light will flicker when the engine stalls and sometimes you must completely stop before you can get the gas peddle to work again. Oil has just recently been changed as well as a new fuel filter was put on. I also ran a bottle of fuel injection cleaner through a full tank of gas. At a cold start the car will go about 8-10 miles before the issue starts, but the longer the engine has been running the worse the car gets. What could be wrong?

Without more information, some things to check include the MAP sensor, and a collapsing pickup screen attached to the fuel pump assembly. It's almost unheard of to fix a running problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter.

If you find that it runs well on the highway, but dies when you coast or slow down, I would lean toward the pickup screen in the fuel tank. They tend to collapse more often when the largest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting from highway speeds. A simple test to verify this is to disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, and plug the hose. The engine will not run perfectly but it will not stall either. You can also expect to see a little black smoke out the tail pipe because it will be running rich. Although the engine is using more fuel, the pump is moving much less than normal so the screen will have less tendency to collapse and block the flow.

caradiodoc

My Intrepid has been sputtering and then stalling out after driving for approximately 30 min. When this problem starts, you can push lightly on the gas and keep the car going but if you give too much gas it has no power. When it does die, it will start up and run after about two hours. The problem seems to be only be happening on very hot days. The first time it happened my mechanic hooked it up for diagnosis and no codes came up at all. Any ideas on where to start?

It sounds like a fuel related issue. I would start by checking fuel pump pressure and if you haven't replaced the fuel filter in a while, it may be a good idea. If you need directions for checking the pressure, let me know.
Joe

I replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel system pressure (checked right). Now when I level off at speeds between 50 and 65 there is a slight but very noticeable miss. Could a small hole in the muffle cause this or should I stick with going through the fuel system?

No, an exhaust leak won't cause that unless the catalytic converter is plugged.

I had an Intrepid with the 3.5l engine that did something similar. Drove me nuts for awhile!

Try accelerating it hard when it starts misfiring. Probably, it's going to give you a code and it might shut down, so be close to home. The code will be for "inadequate dwell for engine load."

I finally dug up some schematics and found a diode in the harness at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Trace the harness back from the coil pack. The diode is shrink wrapped in the harness, and has 1 wire to it from the coil with 2 wires coming out the other side. I fixed mine by cutting the diode out and replacing it with a condenser (yep, think old school point ignition) from a 68 for pickup that we had. Worked like a champ. Just taped it up in the harness and put it all back together and drove the car another 2 or 3 years.

Good Luck

I am looking at buying a 1996 doge intrepid it has not been run for three years it start and runs good but when you come to a stop sign it will kill this started after the head gaskets were replaced three years ago. I do know the owner and she is truthfull
does any one have any idea what may cause this. I think fuel injectors.

Check for trouble codes. Just cycle the ign key on/off 3 times and count the flashes in the check engine light. It will end with a 55 code.

Doesn't sound like injectors to me. More likely something not plugged in or the idle motor not working.

[quote:dbee842a22="oldtech2"]I had an Intrepid with the 3.5l engine that did something similar. Drove me nuts for awhile!

Try accelerating it hard when it starts misfiring. Probably, it's going to give you a code and it might shut down, so be close to home. The code will be for "inadequate dwell for engine load."

I finally dug up some schematics and found a diode in the harness at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Trace the harness back from the coil pack. The diode is shrink wrapped in the harness, and has 1 wire to it from the coil with 2 wires coming out the other side. I fixed mine by cutting the diode out and replacing it with a condenser (yep, think old school point ignition) from a 68 for pickup that we had. Worked like a champ. Just taped it up in the harness and put it all back together and drove the car another 2 or 3 years.

Good Luck[/quote:dbee842a22]


This is exactly what it does. When it is acting up you have to be really light on the gas pedal or it loses power. Could you spoon feed this to me or let me know where I could possibly get an illustration of the wiring harness you are referring to. Appreciate your help.

1996 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L stalls (vapor locks) while driving. Will start after cooling off. Only happens on very hot days. Could this be caused by the fuel pump becoming too hot and will replacing it make a difference? Had it pressure tested (tested good) and there are no error codes showing. Thanks for your help.

Cars don't vapor lock anymore when they have pressurized systems. Some very common problems include a failing crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor. They fail when they get hot and work again after cooling down for about an hour. When one fails, you'll find you have no spark AND no fuel pressure.

If that was the case would the show up in the error codes during the diagnostic? My mechanic said he would have a hard time pinpointing the problem without the car acting up. Where should I start to remedy the problem? Thanks for your help!

I'm all for leaving the mechanic out of the picture!

I mess with older Jeeps and Fords

Without a Check Engine light on or Stored Codes available, you are sorta stuck checking for spark and fuel, during the hiccup or immediately, hooking up some sorta "Real Time, Ride Around Diagnostic computer" and usually paying someone to do so........and doing without your rig, for days or more!

I'm not really up on computer rigs bigtime, but I get there, as need-be on my end.....but I'm learning

I do read thru a lot of stuff coming thru here

You symptoms are exactly like what caradiodoc has described as being associated with the Crankshaft Sensor (sometimes camshaft).....But most of the time, I see the Crankshhaft sensor being the fix!

Here's the sad thing, you will soon see the cost of this thing, and the ONE bolt holding it in place, and the wire connector you must remove from the old, and clip back onto the new!

If anybody on your end.....you, neighbor, buddy at work, the little girl next door! is capable of changing a spark plug, this task could probably be done in less than an hour......most of that time, "yakking about it!"

I do not know your car.....unless you must remove a major item to get to this "THING".....My 5 year old Grandson could probably do it!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Suggest&searchTerm=crankshaft+sensor

I do know it must be installed properly spaced, but the factory probably already helped you out with that!

As far as where to find it.............That what we can assist you with!

Ain't much going on, so I jumped on board to give you the Country Boy view of this.

caradiodoc, will guide you the rest of the way as far as installation Dos and Don'ts

Like I said, I'm not familiar with your car....I'm just tryin' to save you time and $$$

Let me know if you need "George" to come help you!.....I'll get him right over, after he finishes with my Army Jeep Trailer!

The Medic

I really din't mean to send 2nd pic!.....this is the one that was supposed to go there!

The Medic

My check engine light had been on for about two weeks, but I never noticed any loss of power or trouble.....until....I was sitting at a traffic light when I saw a little bit of white smoke in front of my headlight and then I smelled a funny burnt chemical smell. It took off fine and I was going about 55 or 60mph when the engine shut off. It has never started again! It turns over only slightly, hesitates then follows w/ a strong crank w/ no fire. The blinking code: 1-2-5-4-3-3-2-1-5-5 =31 :which the auto store said had to do w/ firing, HELP!! Also, the first spark plug cilindar is full of oil...but would that just shut down the engine? It is a 24 valve 3.5 litre engine. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, as school is starting and we have been without our car for 3 weeks!! HELP!!

P.S. Towed the car in to my mechanic....turns out the timing belt blew(the funny smell & smoke) and blew my pistons. They say I need a new engine!!

Unfortunatly, you are going to have to get the codes with a scanner, problem with using CEL is that some codes mean several different things and the CEL cant distinguish between the different codes the PCM is giving.Aside from that does it sound normal when cranking? There are some fusible links at the starter on your car, might want to use a test light and verify they are ok.

Thank you so much for you help, CJ MEDEVAC. The crankshaft sensor will be in today and tomorrow is to be the hottest day so we should know shortly. Thanks again.

This was all caradiodoc's diagnosing, he's the one who deserves the credit!

I just added flavor and motivation to it!

When you get it, talk to the parts man, who is not constantly texting someone. You know.........the mature caring feller who will actually spend a little time explaining stuff!

Insure you know how to properly install this thing....Or return here and ask Doc how to do it.

Insure you return with wonderful news.

As we seldom get visitors, see little of the outside world, and have to eat with plastic eating utensils...................lol!

Please let us know, Doc fixed you!

The Medic

So I installed the crankshaft position sensor. It was indeed just on screw....took 20 minutes. However, all I did was put it in and tighten it up. Is there anything else I should have done? The following day I went on a trip an hour long trip each way. Was ok in the AM when cool but on the way home in the afternoon it stalled out again. It also seemed to be running rougher than it had been. Could this have something to do with install of the Crankshaft Position Sensor or should I move on and replace the camshaft sensor?

1996 dodge intrepid stalls when on interstate, then will restart within 15 minutes

i need to know a little more then that to help.is there a check engine light on,does it fire up right away after it sits or is it sluggish,is it only on the interstate,i need more.

Original equipment sensors from the dealer use a thick paper spacer on the end to set the critical air gap. That spacer slides off the first time the engine is started. Most aftermarket sensors have a plastic rib molded to the end to set that gap. It partially wears down during engine operation. When that style is removed and reinstalled, the remaining rib is supposed to be cut off and a new paper spacer used.

When no spacer is used, if the sensor is pushed in as far as it will go, it can be broken from hitting on the flex plate. If it is spaced out too far it can cause intermittent loss of signal and stalling, usually after the engine warms up. There should be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer related to that sensor.

There is a check engine light on, I was told it was for an O2 sensor several months ago. Usually when it stalls, i will pull over to the side of the road and it might take 30 seconds before it starts, sometimes it takes 15 minutes. It does not run sluggish, it just shuts off or runs great.

crank or cam sensor or both.its going to have to be hooked to a scanner & maybe have a 1 or 2 sensors checked,in short its going to have to go to a shop.

the car will start up fine and run for a while but will then die. let the car sit for a while and it will start back up and then die again. think it is fuel filter but not sure.

[quote:9514bf7725="snowman1"]Engine Performance problem
1996 Dodge Intrepid 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles

the car will start up fine and run for a while but will then die. let the car sit for a while and it will start back up and then shut off again. think it is fuel filter but not sure.[/quote:9514bf7725]

Hi siwytom17. Welcome to the forum. Don't waste your time on the fuel filter. Other than on diesel trucks, you will never solve a running problem on a chrysler product by changing the fuel filter. They actually pass the largest volume of fuel during coasting and the least amount during hard acceleration.

The symptom you described is typical of a failing camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. They often become heat-sensitive and will work again after they cool down. If the Check Engine light came on, there will be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer that will lead you to the right sensor. The camshaft position sensor is on top of the engine right in front and a little to the driver's side. The crankshaft position sensor is in the transmission bell housing right next to the engine block on the passenger side. Both have three wires in their connectors.

caradiodoc

96 intrepid misses and sometimes dies when turning left from a stop. sometimes it will cause engine light to come on and i have to unhook the battery for awhile to get it to go off. the engine is a 3.3