Check engine light

Well sense the engine light came on lets see what the truck can tell us and see if it is related to you problem with the fuel guage. If you would call around to you local parts stores and find one that will do a free scan and have it scanned. Write down the codes and then have them clear the codes. Now get back to me with the codes and I will look them up and see what needs to checked or if it is related to you problem. Thanks.

My engine light was staying on, so I purchased an OBDII code reader. I received a P0038 code (HO2S bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit high). After talking to the local Dodge dealer, they suggested that it was the driver side downstream O2 sensor. After purchasing a new Bosch #13687 sensor, I installed it. With the ignition off, I removed the old sensor and repalced it with the new one. After taking out the old sensor, I noticed that there was a spot where the insulation had been worn off all the wires. I assumed that there probably was a short causing the error. I then reinstalled the code reader and erased the code. I started the truck up and the engine light was off. After driving the truck for a while, the light remained off. The next time I drove the truck, the light came back on and stayed lit. I reinstalled the code reader and received a P0141 code (O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2). I tried clearing the code but after starting up the truck and driving it the second time, the light stays on and I get the same code again. What do you think the problem could be?

Hello, if it shorted it may have done something internally to the PCM which gives it it's power. It may need a new PCM. I would start iy up, use a test light to check if it has voltage on one of the wires, if not trace it back. Check another o2, if it's ok and the first problem o2 doesn't have power it may need a computer. The dealer has the DRBIII to check it and reset it. ok Sorry, hope this helps. The heater circuit gets the sensors hot faster.

My 2004 Dakota pickup has the engine light on ,I need to know were I will find the 02 sensor, bank 2

Need the engine size in liters, there are three sixes used on this... Unless you know where the #1 cylinder is, that's bank 1 the other side is bank 2, there will be 2 sensors on each side for dual exhaust, and one each side(upstream) before the cat, and one after the cat.

Engine light flashing. 2004 Dodge Dakota SXT started bucking.When I step on the pedal it will lose power. Turn the engine off and it doesn't want to start up. Is it a fuel problem ? I don't know.

Check engine light on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

The radiator blew up on me. I replaced it. but the truck will not start because the auto shut down engaged.

The ASD relay and circuit have nothing to do with the radiator. Clearing codes won't make the engine start either. What are the codes? Does the ASD relay turn on for one second after you turn on the ignition switch?

engine code

check engine light on have to scan for codes try this some Chrysler product will allow you to get the codes by cycling key on off 3 times ending with key ON read trouble codes in the odometer area Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) can be retrieved using scan tool. Connect scan tool to Data Link Connector (DLC). DLC is located below instrument panel near steering column.

Hey fellows, I was wondering what is a good all around scanner tool for the ABS systems for trouble shooting and performing service to the system like cycling the solenoids when pressure bleeding after brake service? Also, maybe one that is not just for that truck but other vehicles also. Thanks

I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my vehicles. Nothing does more than that one, but 2004 was the first year Chrysler started using the "CAN BUSS" system. They only used it that year on Dakotas and Durangos, so the DRB3 will not work. You can get extra plug-in cards that allow it to work on all Chrysler products back to 1983, and one of those cards lets it do emissions-related stuff on any brand of car sold in the U.S. after 1996. A lot of independent shops bought them for that reason. I bought mine through the dealership I used to work for. Those needed to be updated too periodically, but the dealer did that for free for me and for any shop that bought those scanners through them. The last models they worked on were a few 2007's or 2008's, Jeeps, as I recall.

One of the most popular scanners is the Snap-on Solus Edge. They will do more than most other aftermarket scanners, but Snap-on is like GM, VW, BMW, and Audi in that they have very customer-unfriendly business practices. I recently looked into buying one of these for my 2014 Ram truck, but changed my mind when I saw the cost of updating it. My friend has one, and I am just going to use his when I need it. You can find these quite reasonably on eBay, but Snap-on is not satisfied with charging almost $4,000.00 for a new scanner. You have to pay extra for most of the connectors and cables, and they really get you when it comes to the annual updates. Those are around $1,000.00 per year, and you cannot skip any years. These scanners lose their value very quickly when they are a year or two out-of-date. You can find them for less than $1,000.00 if they are only updated to 2012, for example. If you want to update it 2017, you have to buy the updates for 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016. You cannot just buy the latest update. If I could update once every five years or so, with just the current version, I would have bought one. Also, notice how many of these are listed for sale with problems or "for parts". Replacement battery packs cost about three times the typical cost for a laptop battery. Basically you can expect to pay double for anything that says "Snap-on" on it. Repair costs are also unreasonably high. The salesmen use that as leverage to get you to buy a new scanner.

Another customer-unfriendly business practice is they offer diagnostic tips online, but you can only access that if you have the latest update. Just like those car companies, they are more interested in quick profits at the expense of customer loyalty or satisfaction. My community college will not buy Snap-on products for their Automotive program for these reasons. Repair parts are also unreasonably expensive.

You might talk with the guys who drive the tool trucks around. They typically show up at most repair shops once a week. Any mechanic can tell you when they will be at certain places. Be aware the employees usually are only allowed on those trucks during mid-day breaks or lunch breaks, so you might have to wait until they finish their business. Ask the drivers what they have in their "used drawers" or what kind of trade-ins they have at home. Sometimes they have a sale pending for a new scanner, and will complete the sale when they find a buyer for their customer's old unit. These used scanners allow you to try them before you choose which one to buy.

If you are on a friendly basis with the people at some local shops, stop in and ask if they have plans to upgrade to new equipment. Often they are on the fence, and finally decide to make a purchase if they can sell some older stuff. In the case of my 2014 truck, I will probably buy a used scanner a few years from now when the price is low, but it will have everything I need, so I will never update it. I keep my vehicles until they rust away, so I will probably never own a newer vehicle.

You might also search eBay for Genysis, MAC, Matco, and Monitor products. The Genysis products used to be real popular, and I think the MAC scanners are a version of them. Pay attention to what they charge for updates, what is involved in doing them, and if you can skip some years. I suspect those companies are going to have the same customer-friendly business practices as Hyundai, Toyota, and Chrysler. My first scanner was a Monitor 4000, which was cutting edge when I bought it in the early 1990's. It was almost identical to the older Chrysler DRB2, and was built by the same manufacturer, OTC, (Owatonna Tool Company). Those use a plug-in cartridge, and you update it by buying the latest cartridge. My latest only goes to 1994, but it works on my 1994 and 1995 Grand Caravans. I have an ABS cartridge for it, but I never tried using it since I have the DRB3. I do not know how new that cartridge goes to, but the scanner does not work on the 1996 and newer vehicles with the OBD2 emissions system.

There are other units on eBay that claim to be for Engines, ABS, and Air Bag systems, but I would be careful with unreasonable expectations. I have never used any of those, so I do not know what their capabilities are.

Hey bud, I really appreciate all that information. man I did not know it was going to be that extensive and I am really grateful for the time you took explaining this to me and a direction to go.Thanks again my friend. :)

Surely. If you find a scanner you like, post a reply with what you found and why you like it.

I just had an engineering company rebuild my motor they have everything you need in the shop to do this.
5 weeks I get my truck back and first thing I notice was my muffler was making noise. Then I notice I had a power steering leak. Ok at 165000 before that normal wear. Then a couple of week later my idle start to run high and truck want to keep driving by its self. I hooked up my code reader and it says code 507.

So I decide to inspect there work I under a lot about mechanics just lack tool and experience need to preform some repairs. So the first thing I notice was the lower radiator hose camps wear not tighten down properly, then I see one of my pig tails retaining clip was not pushed in. Then I found a retain clip in my bumper splash guard. Then I see my oil dip stick nut was not fasten down all the and was rubbing up against my throttle cable.

Theres more my transmission cooling lines were not secured and I don't if a overhaul means you blast the block then or just paint right over the rust but it looks like thats what they did and a incomplete job at that because I can still see rust in some spots. I called they said bring will look at but I don't want to get it back and have more problems when I get back then when I took it in! Plus not have my truck again for 5 weeks!

So I tighten ever bolt and clamp that was loose secured everything that was not fasten check and clamped all the vacuum line / hoses. replaced gas cap and I am currently in the process of replacing power steering pump and pressure lines. Also I got a new muffler installed!

Im just wondering if I start up and still get the code 507 how I can figure out where the vacuum leak is to get the idle back to normal running RPMs? Will I need to take to them so they can drop the output program in my PCM?

2004 Dodge Dakota Sport Plus Quad Cab 4x4 4.7L automatic
The BCM time and alarm module is damaged I don't know if that matters or not.
My research says IAC valve check but I need to have my PCM reprogrammed?

It costs me $4000 for the rebuild too!

Horn Automotive Engineering
Marion, Iowa
319-377-0190

Whats Next? LOL!

That code is for the IAC. Basically, the computer realizes that the engine is idling too high. Several things can cause this:

Bad Idle Air Control Motor
Vacuum leaks
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Defective Charging System/Alternator
Defective Power Steering Pressure Switch

It's odd that you have an idle issue and PS issue too. Have you checked the PS pressure switch?

2004 Dodge Dakota V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

we just change the oil and now the check engine light wont turn off i was wondering what was the gauge check order thanks

What I recommend is to take the truck to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes and reset it.

Let me know what code you find. Also, most will do it for free.

Joe

I have an engine light, I'm getting four codes- 204,207, 551 and 121 ??????? I'm sure one is setting off the other can you lead me in the right direction

P0207and p0204 injector circuit problem check wiring and ohm injectors 4 and 7
p0501 speed sensor
p0121 throttle position sensor circuit
I would start by checking the wiring harness and common ground

all codes are related to a circuit failure

my check engine light is on i fixed what was wrong with it , does the check engine light go off on its own or do u have to erase them ?

It will shut off eventually after so many key cycles if the fault is gone.Its best to have the code cleared with scan tool.Take it to a auto parts store and have them clear the code.That way you will make sure you fixed it.I have thought i fixed a check engine light before and was suprized it wasnt fixed before.

This issue started about a year ago when the check engine light came on. Upon reading the code it said P1698. I recently took the truck to the dealership and they said the problem was my TCM. I replaced the module then after about 50 miles the transmission would slip out of gear and back into gear while at 65 MPH and the same shortly after. It didn't happen again. I put the original TCM back in it because i thought the new one was faulty. Then another issue came up where my truck would be very sluggish on the take off, as if my first gear was not engaged. This problem would go away and come back every other day or so. I recieved another TCM and the same problem has been happening except now it seems to not want to engage first gear at all. I am unsure if the problem is my torque converter or if my transmission is going out. Can you help?

Ok I don't find such a code sorry it just isn't on the list of codes for you truck. If you would call around to you local parts stores and see if one does a free scan and scan it. Write down any codes current or pending, then clear them and get back to me with what you find. Thanks

I had the code read orignially and it was P1698. I have confirmed it with the dealership and the truck will also tell me the code. When it was read the first time the it said P1698 Manufacturer wiring fault. It was very unclear as to what it was saying. What i took from it was it needed to go to the dealership for repair. If there is nothing you can find with the code can you give some insite to the issue with the transmission problem i am experiencing?

Ok after some deeper digging this code is related to your transmission problems. It is pointing back to the TCM (transmission control module). I would have a relearn done first before buying a new one. This does require a scan tool that will read the tcm to do this.

Unfortunately I have already replaced the TCM. That is what the dealership told me to do, do to some faulty components inside my original TCM. The gear problem started a couple days after I put the new TCM in and it slipped in and out of my top gear while I was going down the highway. I thought that one was faulty so I called the company and they sent me another one. Before I got the second one I put my original one back in. After driving a few miles my truck would not take off in first gear. Then the problem went away either a short ways down the road or after I got out and came back to it later that day. The first gear issue has come and gone every other day for a couple weeks. Till I recieved a second TCM from the company and now I have no first gear. I can not disengage my over drive and I can not switch my drive train into 4wheel low. You mentioned a relearn how can I do this with the existing TCM that is installed right now. I do not have the original any more?

The relearn must be done with a scan tool that will read the TCM and you then drive and set the shift and so on. So if you have one of these scan tools that will do that then get back to me and I will give you procedure.

I was driving my truck with the air conditioning on and then the check engine light came on while driving, after that it felt like it was going to stall in 1st gear it was real sluggish when in drive so i turned the air off and it still runs sluggish while moving in 1st gear after that it seems fine im thinking it could be the spark plugs since the truck doesnt die

Try 1st and get the codes
cycle key on off on off on
get the codes in the odometer area
and or use an OBDII reader for read codes


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need manual CHECK IT @
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
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P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
I looked up the code but i have no clue what this means im going to take it in 2morrow but how much would this cost to get fixed thank you very much

Possible Cause
The following items may be area of concern:
Fused B+ circuit open.
Solenoid and harness assembly defective.
Governor pressure solenoid out of tolerance.
Transmission control relay defective.
Governor pressure solenoid control circuit shorted to ground.
Governor pressure solenoid harness defective.
Governor pressure solenoid control circuit open.
Transmission control relay output circuit open.
Transmission control relay output circuit shorted to ground.
DTC P1765 is set.
PCM defective.

i just took in the truck and got it back today from getting a tune up i know i got to take it in for the P0748 engine code fault but now it came with a few others P0305, P0463 and P1756 i looked those ones up and it seems that it still thinks i have a misfire but the shop replaced all the spark plugs and wires and that the other codes relate to fuel pressure im confused about the last 3 fault codes since i know that P0748 needs to go to a transmission shop to get fixed thnkas for all the help so far

02 4.7 dakota check engine light coming on and off,error code says it is power conrol module internal fault tuck was running ok but now idle is a little radical at times what does this code mean and what should i do?

code p0463
Fuel level sending unit voltage is monitored when ignition is on and battery voltage is more than 10.4 volts. DTC will set when fuel level sensor signal voltage goes to more than 4.95 volts at the PCM for more than 90 seconds.
Possible Causes
Intermittent Condition
Fuel Level Sensor
Fuel Level Sensor Signal Circuit Open
Sensor Ground Circuit Open
Fuel Level Sensor Signal Circuit Shorted To Sensor Ground Circuit
PCM


p1756:
Circuit is monitored continuously while ignition is on and engine is running, not in Park or Neutral. DTC sets if governor pressure sensor output is not 15-30 psi (1.0-2.1 kg/cm2 ) when requested pressure is 20-25 psi (1.4-1.7 kg/cm2 ) for 2.2 seconds. Test must fail 5 times to set DTC.
Possible Cause
The following items may be area of concern:
Other transmission-related DTCs are set.
Solenoid pack connector 5-volt supply circuit open.
Sensor signal circuit has short to ground, short to voltage or open.
Governor pressure sensor defective.
Transmission fluid burnt or oil pan contains excessive debris.
Governor pressure out of range.
Transmission leaking internally.
Defective PCM.
Defective valve body.

Do you have the code number the P---? Get me that I will look it up and see what to do next ok.

i took my car in and had the transmission rebuilt and i had to take it in last friday because the error code p0748 came back up again when i started my truck and i picked it up on monday and its been running good till this morning i started the truck and the error code of p0748 came back up again, luckily i have the warranty for free parts and labor but my question is since i have a new transmission and all is it something else like maybe the PCM and if so where do i get a PCM replaced at?

the code is po 601 power control module internal fault

It is very unlikely to be the PCM
wiring most likely and or connector plug