not starting

I have a 1998 dodge dakota V8, and recently has had issues trying to start.. You have to hold the gas pedal for it to start running, then if u give it gas, the RPMS drop and it stalls. Reading message boards, i have changed the spark plugs, TPS sensor and IAC sensor. But to no avail. Is there anything else i could look for? Thanks.

[quote:e7138a3544="CarloP"]Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Dodge Dakota V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 92000 miles

I have a 1998 dodge dakota V8, and recently has had issues trying to start.. You have to hold the gas pedal for it to start running, then if u give it gas, the RPMS drop and it stalls. Reading message boards, i have changed the spark plugs, TPS sensor and IAC sensor. But to no avail. Is there anything else i could look for? Thanks.[/quote:e7138a3544]

Hello,

Is your engine light on? If so have vehicle scanned for codes and post....

If no engine light check Fuel Pressure and Regulator...

Chekc out the link below for video on testing....

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm


.

Hi again. Alright, i checked with the tool and nothing came up.. I bought a pressure gauge to check that, and everything is good there.. This morning was very cool out, and the truck started right up, like it was brand new.. So the issues happen when its hot out.. Could it be corrosion or something on the wires? Could it be the MAP sensor at all?

Was the battery disconnected or died recently? If it was, minimum throttle must be relearned by the engine computer. Until this is done, the computer doesn't know when you have your foot on the gas pedal and when it must be in control of idle speed.

It knows your foot is off the pedal when you're coasting. The strategy it uses is higher than normal manifold vacuum for seven seconds. High vacuum will occur if you snap the throttle open and closed real fast, but not for seven seconds. You have to coast down from highway speed for the high vacuum to occur for seven seconds or longer.

When these conditions are met, the engine computer looks at the voltage from the throttle position sensor and puts that in memory. The next time it sees that same value, it knows it has to control idle speed.

Most technicians will perform a test drive specifically to prevent this customer complaint after doing any work that requires disconnecting the battery.

Drive on the highway, then coast for seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

There should also be an idle "flare-up" when you start the engine. If it doesn't run up to about 1500 rpm when you start it, there could be a problem with the idle speed motor or its air passage could be plugged with carbon.

caradiodoc

Yes, the battery was dead over the winter, and we just changed it not that long ago..

Once we get it running, it idles about 1200rpms, then u press the gas, it idles down and turns off... Same thing if you put it into gear...

The TPS, IAC and SPark plugs are all brand new...

friends pickup would die sometimes for a while then died for good. I checked fuel pressure, and fire. Fuel is good, but fire seems weak, orange, and not constant, (this is directly from coil wire) replaced plugs and wires, cleaned cap and rotor and did compression check. (The starter seems to be turning motor slowly.) Thinking possible coil weak, or could it be like the pickup coil. Don't want to keep changing parts cause this could get expensive for him. Appreciate any help.

We tried to do the Re-Learn process, but it runs awesome when it is cold out... But once the motor warms up, if you turn it off, then try to restart, it wont kick over until u hold your foot on the gas... Even then the RPMS drop down and doesnt want to start.. :(

Have you checked the coil?

whaaa HOOOO!!! finally fixed the problem today.. went and bought a Haynes repair manual, because we found a corroded wire.. turned out to be the ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.. it was hard to find, tucked away... once we changed that.. new part was $17.00 .. runs like brand new!!!

Not sure how to check the coil without trying a known good one. I have ohm'd out coils before but I cant remember what ohm's I need to look for. I will try to find another coil.

Thanks

Congrats on the find and fix.

Ok, ohm'd out coil, was 1.1 ohm at primary, and 12k ohm at secondary. Bought new one it ohm'd at 1.5 ohm primary, and 11.5k ohm secondary. Tried it anyway and still got orange spark. Put timing light on each cylinder and spark was pretty constant on each. Spark plugs get soaked with fuel when trying to start. I pulled off the air breather to make sure it was getting plenty of air. Checked distributer and rocker arms are moving when the motor is turning. Made sure pistons were top when rotor was firing, and valves were closing and opening at right times. Don't think it is a timing issue. Fuel will ignite, once when I was checking fire, I had a spark plug out and a loose plug wire fell over one of the spark plug holes and ignited the fuel in that cylinder. OOPS! Shot fire out of that cylinder. If I have spark, fuel, and air all at the right times shouldn't this vehicle start and run?

1998 Dodge Dakota truck I try to start my truck and all I hear is the engine trying to turn over, but never actually starts. I tried to jumps start the battery, but it just does the same thing

Try using carb cleaner into the throttle body and see whether it will start and die-if so-check the fuel pressure and injection pulses.

Now it will run fine for a while then die like it ran out of gas when it has plenty of gas. Engine turns over but it won't start. Had it towed home and once home it started fine. Problem happened several times. What could be the issue?

--https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

I've got a 98 Dodge Dakota Sport V6 2 wheel drive that like to sporadically not start, or stay on.

What happens:
I turn the ignition, the car starts unusually quickly and then flutters for about 3 seconds then decides to shut off. The voltage is good, the battery is turning the engine, and if I am quick enough to get on the gas, the engine will rev no problem, but if I let off of the gas while in park, it shuts off.

This happened in April 07 and I got it towed to a dealer and they let it sit for 2 days and was magically cured, but it died in the middle of a turn while driving...

This time I fixed it, after trying to start it 3 times, the first time it fluttered and died. Second time, didn't even ignite, third time no better, so I thought I'd check the fluids, popped the hood, the transmission was just barely at minimum, so I put some more in, and it started...rather weakly...but it started.

Sometimes, it'll be sluggish to start when it's wet out, or when it's under 1/4 tank of gasoline, putting fresh new gas in almost always seems to fix it...but not this time, I had to rev it to keep it from dying then jump straight into drive to get going...

I just had a leaking power steering pump replaced about 2 weeks ago. This car gets checked about every 6 months by a local mechanic my family trusts.

When I worked at a Dodge dealership, we were ALWAYS having problems with the IAC solenoid. Either the solenoid would go bad or it would get 'carboned' up and not allow air to enter the engine at idle. Most of the time, cleaning the throttle body would take care of it but occasionally the solenoid would have to be replaced. That sounds like what's happening. When you don't have the accelerator pressed, the 'butterfly' in the trottle body is completely closed. NO AIR can get by it. That's where the IAC solenoid comes in. It has a plunger that seats in a seat inside the throttle body. The PCM controls it based on various inputs from sensors. The PCM tells it how many 'steps' to be at so that there's just enough space between the plunger and the seat to allow just the right amount of air in to maintain a specified idle speed. If carbon is caked up on the plunger, that 'gap' is filled in and not enough air can get by to allow the engine to idle. That's why when you hold the gas pedal down some, the air gets in the engine around the throttle blade instead of going through the idle ports, therefore it stays running until you let off the gas. This solenoid can be removed from the throttle body and cleaned. If you do, be sure to clean inside the hole where it was removed from. If this doesn't help, repost and we'll try again.

My truck will sometimes start and sometimes not. I can prime my fuel pump several times and sometimes get pressure into the fuel rail in witch I test by pressing on the schrader valve. And some times there is enough pressure to start and run. Then if I come back after an hour or so and try to start I get zero fuel in fuel rail after even 30 prime cycles. Its always rather random about it. I usually get a lot of pressure when my battery is low and I crank it repeatedly. What part is bad and what needs replaced. I'm sure my pump is fine since it runs after it can start.

It sounds to me like the pump is bad or going bad. When it doesn't start, can you hear the pump cycle? Have you replaced the fuel filter?

I can hear from the cab two bump sounds and a quiet whine that lasts about 3 secs which I'm sure is the pump priming and the filter is a non replaceable type in the fuel pump assembly. Thanks for the quick reply.

I believe it is replaceable. It's mounted in the fuel pump module. Regardless, if you are not getting fuel to the engine, either it has clogged or the pump is weak or bad. If you use starting fluid, can you get it to start?

sometimes the pressure behind the rail is enough to start and after it starts it runs completly fine no issues, but turn it of and at the end of the next prime cycle there may be no fuel in the line.

My truck will turn over but wont catch to start. Battery has power. I have half a tank of good gas. I've tried jump starting from car to car and from charger to car. Was running fine but when I stopped to ideal and let a friend out it stalled and then wouldn't start again after it had been running about 30 minutes. Trunk is king cab 1998 Dakota stick with a v8.

You need to check to see what is missing, spark or fuel when it doesn't start. From that point, you should be able to pinpoint what components are the possible cause.

If you hear the pump prime and there is no fuel, either something is clogged or the pump is bad or weak.

Electrical problem
1998 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 130k miles

I recently installed a new automatic transmission in my 1998 dodge dakota.
The install took awhile, but other than that seemed to have gone well. When I tried to start it up, it wouldn't go. It only took me a minute to figure out that there was no spark.
I have checked and re-checked all visible wiring for proper connection and/or damage. All, as far as I can see, is well. I followed the trouble shouting procedure in the repair manual for no start in the electrical section:
-check for spark at plug
-check for spark at ignition coil wire
-check for voltage to ignition coil

This is where I think the problem may be. There is voltage at the ignition coil when the key is turned part way, but only for a second, then it drops to zero. Also, when the engine is being turned over, there is no voltage. The next step is to check the Automatic Shutdown Relay, I swapped it for another one and that didn't make a difference either.

The last two checks are:
-signal from the PCM
-and crank and camshaft positon sensors

Is it possible I have just missed a wire somewhere?
Or is it more likely that I have damaged a sensor during the install (but would that result in no voltage to the ignition coil?)

Any ideas?

Thanks a bunch,
Landon

I think you loostened or missed a wire. Make sure the harness to the PCM is tight, not damaged, and none of the pins are pushed in. A cam sensor isn't going to cause what you described, and the PCM doesn't just go bad sitting.

Thanks. I will check the PCM harness.

I forgot to mention in my first post that the supposed cause of the transmission failure was a shorted out O2 sensor. I have replaced both O2 sensors. If there is a short in the O2 sensor wiring, and not the sensor itself, might this cause the problem I am having?

Thanks,
Landon

No, it wouldn't cause the problem. Actually, I can't see how it had any relationship to the trans problem.

i have a 98 dodge dakota. just rebuilt engine last year was running good. One day tried to start will turn over no fire. gages do not read. Lights and indicators light up battery reads good. tried obd can not connect to read. any ideas?

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

So over the past year, I've been having problems with my truck not starting. I always make sure that my lights and radar detector are off when I get out. But weekly like clockwork, I have to open the hood, clean the positive connection on the battery and the cable as well (about a teaspoon worth of that bluish white corrosion builds up on it in that amount of time). A coworker said it could be the ground cable that's probably not secured all the way. I only have basic knowledge on vehicles, if it is that cable, which one is it and is it easy to fix?

Hi:
The white corrosion that you clean comes from battery acid. If you always have the problem, I would question the condition of the battery. Is it very old? Also, they make a battery protector that is like spray paint. I works really well.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Joe

I've replaced the battery a few times, so I don't think that's an issue here. Is that spray a common item to be found at autozone or any place like that?

Hi:
I called my buddy who owns a shop near me and asked for the product name for you. He said on the front of the can is says "Battery Protector and Corrosion Inhibitor" The product he has is manufactured by Mighty. The part number is V72

He also informed me that you can purchase this type of product at any parts store. It may be under a different name, but it will do the same thing.

I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, let me know.

Joe

why will my truck not fire after sitting when it rains

When the problem occurs, if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Any applicable trouble codes?

my truck wont start it is not throwing any codes could it be pickup coil ?

Have you checked for spark? What about fuel pressure? Check if the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is turning on during cranking. Measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at the ignition coil or any injector. You should see 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is whether that voltage comes back during cranking.