ALDL connector?

Good afternoon,

The reason you cannot communicate is due to 1995 was a transition between OBD 1 and OBD 2.

You need a scan tool that reads OBD1 but has a cable that will communicate with the L terminal.

I had a snap-on scanner with the needed cable for communicating.

You need to call around to shops and see if anyone has that tool to read the system. The dealer most likely will not help as it is too old for them.

Roy

As Roy stated you have what many call unofficially an OBD 1.5 car. GM had a few of them in between 95 and early 96. The connector looks like an OBDI part but the system actually uses a hybrid of OBD I and II parts and protocols. They also used the OBD II connector the same way on a couple models. The common OBD II units won't read the data because it's in the wrong place and the wrong type and there is no jumper method to read the codes like the OBD I systems. The Snap-On MT2500 (Brick) with the correct cartridge will read them, as will the Tech II and the Tech 2000. The OTC Genisys will as well. Some dealers will have them setting on the shelf under 2 inches of dust while others will just wave you away. It depends on when they became GM dealerships and if the tool still works.
I would call around or if you wish to DIY look online for the above scan tools, the bricks and older Genisys units are all over the place, just be sure they have the software or the cartridge for your year. OH and while many of the new lower priced OBD II units claim to work with OBD I and have the adapters, very few actually work with the system you have.

Steve W : Sad news for someone as remote from the states as in Iraq! But I am very grateful to you for the important info that did hit me for the first time.

ASEMASTER6371: Thank you dear Roy for the invaluable info, you guys are more than great.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

If you use Ebay you can usually find them on there.

Thank you dear Steve, I haven't been to Ebay but for this cause I will, even if through a friend who has a credit card, things are pretty primitive here with payment, no PayPal and no trusted bank to use a credit card but once I am in Istanbul mid August I will check from there because I have an account in their governmental bank.

Here are a couple of eBay item numbers to give you an idea of the type of scanner that would work. MT2500 - 334099128547 Genisys - 133831212299 or 164862732215
I have one of each. The Genisys is a bit easier to use as it uses built in software and no cartridges.

Is this a good choice for this case of mine (from Ebay) { https://www.ebay.com/itm/164886660950?hash=item266402c756:g:p~MAAOSwK~Fgr-OM }? The price is suitable as I can see: OTC Genisys Scanner for parts, Includes Cables, Manuals, Case - SPX Scan System
Popular Item 1 viewed per hour
Condition:For parts or not working
Price:US $120.00
P.S, it is the screenshot that is intended, the first attachment might refer to another model other than what I am inquiring about
Also: I didn't see any referring to OBD 1 on the Ebay page nor any mentioning of Pontiac. I count on your extensive skill here for the OBD 1 part , as for the (Pontiac) term missing here, is it this part included there that allows connecting the scanner to my DLC : {Chrysler Cable (212635}

That is the type of scanner, however you need the cable to connect to the early GM units. The software in them covers OBDI - OBD 1.5 and OBD II as long as you have the correct cable. The correct connector is in the image attached OTC 212653. Then there is the adapter harness that goes between the tool and the cable OTC 3305-72, that is used with all the cables with the round connection on them. That is the second image. You can still buy those cables new.
Look around on there and see what you can find. There are usually a few of them for sale as people decide they don't need them anymore. They are not super fast but they work and if you visit their site at OTC you can still get most of the parts and cables.

This is great! A friend of mine living in the states sent this stuff to me, any idea or comparison between this and that? I am in need of some scanner that doesn't has what you called as cartridge yet it is ready to deal with my engine (no provision of having a software to download for Pontiac): https://www.otctools.com/products/obd-i-code-scanner-gm-0?fbclid=IwAR0sE1l2nAr2Fd06_9LBJRbzzH3rpfK87fTr_gnfJVMEm3r94EEMJDkNERI

Check the description. It looks like 84 and 95 will not work with this code reader.

Roy

I don't believe it will work on your 95 because of the odd computer in your vehicle. Those generally worked with the earlier system where you could simply short out two pins to make the check engine light flash the codes. That ability doesn't exist on your car.

Then I would better stick to the OTC Genisys unit you recommended ? Seems like my friend in the states needs too much of your knowledge dear Steve,

I would opt for a tool that will work on your vehicle. In this case it's difficult due to the system used. Unlike the earlier OBD I cars where a simple paper clip jumper would cause the light to flash, or the true OBD II vehicles where even the cheapest plug in code reader will work the ones in between like yours require a real scan tool to read and display the data. It makes it harder for the do it yourself folks to work on them because of that. Instead of a free clip or a $20.00 plug in tool you need a tool that is much more expensive and does far more than most people ever use. The up side is that because it is a true scan tool it has a lot more in it than just reading the codes and can show you testing data and much more.

The scan tools I mentioned both will work on your car. There are a couple others as well but those are not as easy to find as the Snap On and the Genisys units are.

A great friend (American just like you) is now contacting the seller to see if it ships to Iraq, otherwise he will arrange for another destination to ship to in Istanbul where I will be available next month. I have no words to repay your help dear Steve.

Get used to the tool and you might find yourself helping out others with US cars over there. I have a friend in the Ukraine that does that, he is one of the "go to" guys if you have a US import there.

You are most right.

Dear Sirs who had helped me with this issue (Roy - ASEMASTER6371, Steve and Colby): What do (VIN M) and ( VIN D) in the DLC diagram you sent earlier to me refer to? And is the Energy Reserve Module that is missing from my car( only that dangling 3-wire connector is there inside the dashboard mass- 2nd attachment here) a crucial part for the DLC connector to work or is it just about the Airbag only, i.e. something that is not essential for the DLC-scanner communication to be there? This is because the Genesys scanner is supposed to be shipped to me in a few days time and I want to make sure that the missing Energy Reserve Module won't prohibit using the scanner, with due thanks to you and to Steve and Colby.

The M and D refer to the 8th digit in the VIN number identifying what engine would be in your car.

I attached the chart identifying the engine according to the letters.

Roy

Then it is the (VIN D MFI) because my engine is a 4-cylinder one. thanks a lot dear Roy.

That is correct. D is the 4 cylinder.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

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Roy

Thanking you all over again dear friend, the latest exchanges seem to be landing me on the real reason why the scanners fail to make any communications if not even more for the reason why my engine stalls all the time. I used a multimeter to check continuity for the 3 wires of the DLC:
1. The black/white wire of the " A " terminal of the connector proved to be positively linked to the -ve line , I wired it to the negative pole of the battery and had an OHM reading, to cut things short.
2. The tan " M" Serial Data wire: I conducted a continuity test on all points of the " C3" connector of PCM (and even the other pink connector), but to no avail, not a single point had any continuity with the " M" terminal of the DLC.
3. The orange/black " L " Serial Data wire : Seems like I need your help here in defining where is the (Electronic Brake Control Module at the rear of the engine compartment at center of dash panel) that is mentioned in the diagram sent to me (image 1) because I couldn't see any wire with such colors behind the engine on the dash panel (Only a Cruise Control Module, Resistance assembly connector for the HVAC unit plus other connectors with extremely thick wires), not even within the two connectors on the left side of the Brake Assembly which has thick wires that do not relate to the thin orange/black wire I am tracing, not even with another module right near the brake power unit as well as other connectors as shown in the (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th images attached) which all have no relevant wire matching the one I am tracing.
The question in light of the impossible and unseen path of the two Serial Data wires (points 2 and 3 above here) is: Provided there is no unit or controller along the way, can I make a bypass connection for the two Serial Data wires to start from where I can see them all the way to the final terminals (on the C3 connector and on that mysterious Electronic Brake Module, respectively once defined to me, to cut things short presuming there is some problem with the two wires up there in the extreme left corner of the dashboard cavity where I tried my best to trace the two wires but couldn't do( images 6 , 7 , 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 ? The blue controller showing in some of these images is {the multi-function alarm. That is what makes the chime noises when the headlights are left on, doors left open, unbuckled seat belts, etc. That part is discontinued and will need to be found used if needed } as told earlier to me by Danny L.

The DLC in that vehicle will have a ground and the data line(s) in it. Unlike the OBD II port used later the power for the tool is supplied by the tool or a battery jump connector to it. Then the data lines can "talk" to the scan tool. You shouldn't need to make any alterations to them unless someone cut the wires. The brake control module will be there if the car has ABS. The chime doesn't talk to the PCM, neither do many other items on that car. Unlike a modern OBDII car they didn't tie everything to the computer yet. However to get the data that is there requires the specific scan tool to access the odd data system in them.

Now it makes sense, yet I still need to find the end of these two data wires on the PCM and on that (Electronic Brake Control Module). I have these 5 images for the main electrical connections that are on the rear side of the engine and on that dash panel: which one is meant for the orange/black wire of the DLC? An ABS module with 2 connectors, a wipers motor as it looks (then it is out of scope of search) , a Cruise module (out of scope too) and a further two images for other connectors some of which relate to the blower apparently.

The serial data wire is the tan wire as labeled in the diagram.

Please review the diagram of the data link connector back in the beginning responses for the wiring diagram.

Roy

It was this tan wire ( linked to the " M " terminal of the DLC that I traced all the way to the C3 connector of the PCM, I couldn't obtain any ohmmeter reading with the Tan wire in that C3 connector. The orange/Black wire coming out of the " L " terminal of the DLC is also termed as ( Serial Data line) same as it is for the Tan wire of the " M" terminal. I gave up on the C3 connector tracing and switched for the other wire since it also is a Serial Data line according to the schematic attached here( 5th attachment) but I need to locate which control module to head for out of the ones shot in my earlier reply ( attached here once again).There is no such wire with such color within the 2 connectors of the ABS assembly shown in the 6th attachment here!

One thing I wanted to mention. If you had an issue with the wire, you would have multiple issues with engine performance.

I read back at the beginning about voltage. Serial data lines have very low voltage. They have 1.5 to 2.5 volts while data is being sent. You cannot test with a voltmeter as serial data only gets tested with a scope.

Roy

In fact I was worried that some discontinuity was there so I thought of using a multimeter to check for continuity only. I was out when your reply(this one) arrived so I carried the test and I could locate the tan wire's other ending(s) according to the attached schematic (second attachment), one branch was in the blue connector of the PCM while the other branch was in the connector shown in the second attachment here, so we can forget about my late inquiry and images, this connector turned out to be the (Electronic Brake Control Module) and it is right in the middle of the dash panel behind the engine as described in the schematic. I may say that the car is ready to receive the OTC Genisys scanner once it arrives okay to my address( that would be some 3-4 weeks from now, hopefully). As for the other wire of the DLC, I believe that the Orange/Black wire won't affect the scanning (correct me please if I am mistaken here).

For the engine you only need to worry about the tan wire. It carries the data for the brake system and the powertrain module. The O/B wire is data for the airbags.
Once you get the tool and can start using it you should be able to diagnose most issues. Just don't expect it to say something like, "Replace this part" OR worse look up a code and it's description thinking that say an O2 sensor code means a bad sensor, it could, but it could also be bad wiring or connections causing the same codes. Those didn't break down circuit codes as well as the modern vehicles. The scan tool though will help a lot more than the old flash codes did.

You are correct.

Roy

You both are great, I enjoyed all dispatches of yours.

Thank you.

We are glad to help.

Roy

Dear Friends (Steve W. and Roy /ASEMASTER6371): The attached images are for the scanner intended for my car. The owner has no idea if any wire of them serves my Pontiac so I asked him to provide all images relevant to the whole set. could you please help and take a look?

I posted the images and part numbers of the cables you need in an earlier post. As long as that still covers past say year 2000 or so it will work, it is missing the OBD 2 smart cable though and I don't see the DIN adapter cable. However those are available online for a reasonable price. The middle cable in the image with the battery looks like the GM cable.

Steve my dear, may I ask for your telephone or email address? If it is okay for you to do so? I want to end this hard to solve issue while I am out of Iraq. My American friend Chris (from Texas) can contact you from inside the states on behalf of me.

The part numbers should be on the cables but they can be missing when the units age a bit. However they still sell them online, both from the company and the auction site as well. I was fortunate with mine it came with all of the cables a 5 gas analyzer module and the scope module. Made it a real nice tool. These days it sets around collecting dust because most vehicle I deal with are under 20 years old. Being in a rust belt state they just don't last that long.

Is it possible to ask you to sell one set of yours? That would cut through a heck of red tape with the seller of eBay. Additionally: one site that failed to offer a PCM of my own car model inquired about the VIN. Is this what they asked for? Shot from the right side lower most dashboard through the windshield.

Sorry I don't plan on selling any of the older tools, last time I did that I needed it about a week later. Yes that is the VIN number. It allows a shop to look up the specific options built into the car from the factory to ensure they get the correct parts.

You are most right since you deal with many cars and makes. I will keep on searching or simply buy the missing cable separately. In Iraq they simply call it / chassis No./