Control Module - Infra-red lock

Hi,

If the vehicle tried to start when you used starting fluid, the engine isn't getting fuel. I understand that fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs, but that doesn't mean it's getting into the engine. If I recall, the module you refer to shuts fuel down in the event of theft.

Do me a favor. First, simply test to see if there is an injector pulse when cranking the engine. Here is a link that explains how to test: Also note: There will be a red wire with a blue tracer that should have power when the key is in the run position. This wire is spliced near the injector harness and sends power to each injector. Check this as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

If that shows no pulse, I need you to perform a can-bus scan. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, the different modules and computers are all tied together via a few wires. This will identify diagnostic trouble codes regardless of the module storing them. Here is a quick video showing it being done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Try these two things and let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe

Just wanted to add if you don't have your 5-volt reference back, you'll have a no start situation. A shorted sensor will pull down the 5-volt reference circuit with any sensors that it shares. That must be tracked down before you'll get any correct ECM activity.

Hi Joe, thanks for your recommendations I certainly will give them a try and let you know the outcome. However, before carrying out your recommendations which I think are good pointers, I first want to make sure the security infra-red locking system and the DAS is in good working order; the reason why I am thinking along this way is because the car was working prior to sitting in the garage for all most a year with a dead battery. The infra-red remote entry fob batteries were also drained, although the previous owner did not use it since his auto technician had remove the infra-red anti-theft lock control module due to failer. I got a lock smith to check and to reprogram the car security system, but he told me he was unable to get communication to the ECM with his scan tool. This is the reason why I sent the ECM out to have it checked and I was told it is in good working order. I am also thinking if any previous settings made to the ECM via a diagnostic tool by the auto tech may have got reset from the battery being dead; and now the system may have reverted to the OEM setting and is looking for the infra-red anti-theft lock control module which is missing. The car system probably thinking someone is trying to seal it and shut the fuel to the injectors down. I would like to first replace the missing infra-red lock control module with one from the junk yard from the same car or from a 1998 - 1999 model. Again, I would like to know more about a replacement on the infra-red lock control module and if there are any special procedures needed to get it working; or weather the control module is a plug and play device.
I like your idea of doing a CAN scan, but I don't have professional diagnostic scan tool. Can you recommend one of those tools which cost less than $400.00 for the DIY person and capable of doing a CAN scan on my 1997 MB project car? I look forward to hear from you soon. Many thanks.

Do you have the 5-volt reference circuit back? The car won't start if its missing, and when you crank the engine over does the check engine light come on? It should during cranking. If it doesn't the ECM is not awake. The clue here is your missing that 5 volts. Without it the ECM can't read any sensors. Crank signal, cam signal etc. Wont fire any injectors
you're probably missing power to the ECM, after sitting so long, little animals love chewing threw wires and making a home.

Yes, I did get the check engine light during cranking. The last time when I check at the airflow sensor, I got 0.05 volts basically nothing. I am currently removing the steering column to replace steering tilt motor, the height adjustment sensor which not working and column boot.

Okay, so you've got an ECM that's powering up and is alive, but if you're still missing the Reference voltage there's two possibilities, either a critter chewed threw a wire, or you have another sensor that is shorted out and pulling the 5 volts to ground. You can check that by unplugging sensors and monitoring the 5 volts until it returns. Unfortunately, in our wiring diagrams on Mitchell there is nothing labelled on the ECM diagram. But it looks like there's a sensor on the gas pedal (Pedal Value Sensor), it's a 6-wire sensor and it should have two 5-volt reference wires on it. Plus, two grounds and two signal wires. But those 5 volts is critical for starting. It's hard to tell how many this vehicle has and if they are shared internally in the ECM due to these diagrams. These two wires highlighted below go to 12v fuses, but the MAF may also have a 5-volt Ref im sure because it has an Intake Air Temp sensor too it looks like. That Camshaft Hall-Effect Sensor is powered up from the same fuse #3 which is why its highlighted as well.

Can the Drive Activation System (DAS) cause those sensors via the ECM to not output the 5v ref? I am absolutely sure no critter would be able to access the home garage because the house cat will not allow it.

I don't believe so, but it does disable all fuel injection for the security system. Usually if the transmission is awake there is a 5-volt reference, unless this Drive Authorization System shuts down part of the transmission. In Mitchell it does say that the DAS and ECM are married together and can't be switched out. DAS also includes your Infrared system. So, you're probably correct, in that you're dealing with a security system issue. These cars are pretty complicated, even back in 1997. There are 20 modules in this model, which is amazing for how old it is.
Are you able to pull any codes or have communication with a scan tool to this thing? I think swapping out modules is going to lead you to more issues, if the car has communication, a technician with the correct scan tool could probably get into the ECM and reprogram the security system. If you don't have a scan tool, you can check for communication by looking for a voltage signal on one of the CAN bus lines. That would tell you if the ECM is awake. CAN bus averages 2.5 volts, CAN bus high goes to 3.5volts and CAN low goes to about 1.5 volts when there's communications. So, with a multimeter it would average 2.5volts if there's data packets being transferred.
The third diagram is all CAN High and Low wires (Highlighted). Those are the High-Speed Network circuits, if the ECM is awake, you'll have a voltage signal on these wires.
But honestly i think you're going to need a technician that has a scan tool that can reprogram the security system. I have no idea how the previous tech was able to bypass the system, there must be a trick to it, but Mitchell doesn't give a whole lot of information on these different systems.
There are some mobile techs that will come to where the car is, if you have that in your area. But as you can see in the last diagram as an example, there's nothing labelled on the diagrams for the ECM. Did anything from those previous videos help out?
As for your scan tool question, the Autel MX808 is under $400 from JBtools.com but it doesn't do security system reprogramming.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Hi Al514,

This info you provided is a lot more along the path I needed for the support, and I felt the car security is what I think is causing the problem. Yes, I do agree the injectors are deactivated and they are not firing up. You also made a good point in regards to the "transmission is awake and should have a 5-volt reference", that is correct because when the ignition is in position one and the brake pedal is press, I can shift the gear selector. And when cranking I got 12-volts at the fuel pump. What I will be doing in the next few days is to order a few things: one of them is MX808 scanner, a new transponder for the ignition key since 1/3 of the silver ring on it got peeled off which can cause poor frequency from the remote key fob. The ignition key transponder connects to the DAS and also the Anti-theft infra-red lock control module. I will then do a CAN scan to see what will shows up and take things from there on. I will also try a AAA lock smith who has the ability to check or reprogram the security system if needed. If you have any other info to share, please feel free to do so and I will return in a couple of weeks or 10 days from now with my findings.

I will add any additional info i come across. I do some more research on how the previous tech may have bypassed that security system, because that's really hard to do, especially when there's multiple modules that are involved. What's getting me is that the Infrared module is on the CAN network and the DAS and ECM, it looks like would be looking for data from that module to start the vehicle. So, whatever he did is tricky, unless he was able to just go in with a scan tool and there was an option to disable it. I'm guessing that's what he did. Because you can't just disable CAN networks and expect things to work. But keep in touch and we will too.

I did understand the previous tech had a lot of experience with MB's. I feel that's exactly what he did, he had tricks and he knew how to by-pass or disable the remote section of security system within the ECM by using his expensive scan tool. He totally removed the anti-theft infra-red lock control model (which MB doesn't make anymore) from the car and the car could start and operated with a regular ignition key, but the alarm system was still active when the car goes to sleep. However, I am thinking along the line since the car was sitting so long with a dead battery those tricky changes, he made may have got erase from the ECM leaving the ECM in its factory default configuration state and now it is looking for the anti-theft infra-red lock control module. For me trying to start the car the DAS is telling the ECM I am trying to steal the car and the ECM disabled the injectors. I would love to know the option the previous tech uses.
Yes, I will certainly keep in touch.

So, the good thing is, if you do buy the MX808 it will communicate with every module in the car, it will do a full system scan, I just did one tonight with it, so you may be able to at least tell if you have communication with the ECM and other modules by trying to look at live data on any one particular module. If you get a no communication code with a certain module, you'll know it's down and/or the ECM is looking for it, the scan tool does different things depending on the vehicle and what's available. But for the money it's a great scan tool. I was surprised how low it was on that website. I haven't had the chance to mess with it too much yet so I'm not sure on all of its special functions, there is a lot though. It will code fuel injectors, bleed ABS modules, etc.

Hello AL514,

I am back. yes, it's been a while. The car is still sitting in my garage which still crank, but no start. I got my new MX808 scanner. First, the scanner could not retrieve the VIN and I had to manually typed it into the scanner. I then ran a complete CAN scan, but it did not complete the entire process. It stops on the first fault: ME2-SFI - Motor Electronics 2. I then drill down to see more details and I got a P1570 stored code with the note - Start enable of Drive Authorization System (Diagnostic Tool/FBS) has not been transmitted. Is that mean the DAS is defected or something else causing the fault?

Hello, yes it has been a while, hope all is well, besides the car obviously. But yes, you are correct, this is the DAS not communicating and/or receiving a signal from the transponder. So, the key fob. Interestingly enough, the top fix for this is a new key fob, but your situation is a bit different because you're actually missing the module. The 2nd diagram is what they would want you to check on that module, ie the Terminating Resistor which would read about 120 ohms with it unplugged and about 60 with it plugged in. Every CANbus system has 2 terminating resistors in it. One at both ends of the CAN network, and measuring resistance with the 2 resistors in the circuit (two 120ohm resistors), overall, you would have 60 ohms on the circuit. I'm just going through our info from previously to catch up here. It's odd the scan tool wouldn't auto ID the car. I wonder if the Infrared module is a Gateway for the CAN bus. So, are you still trying to bypass this thing or get a new one?

I just was thinking, since this module is missing, did you take anything out of the car, any other modules or anything that he may have installed, Because the CANbus definitely needs the two terminating resistors, and if that module had one of the two, there would be no communications, which is partially what you have now, guess I'm thinking out loud here. but I wondered if he put the missing resistor in somewhere to make up for the missing one.
Do you still have no 5-volt ref?
One other thing, with that scan tool, when you start, you can select a vehicle make, and then it also says OBD2 on the same screen, have you tried going into OBD2 side of things and see if you can get any data from that end, sometimes when I have an issue with going into the manufacture side I go into the Global OBD2 side, it's not as Indepth, but you can get different information that way.

Is this the module he took out?
One more question, sorry about this, but I'm looking up different info here, does your key have a lock/unlock button on it? or was that just the FOB?
Also, the ME2-SFI is the engine control module, main ECM.

The module that was missing looks like the picture below. I got one from eBay, but I understand it has to get program to my car by a locksmith who have the proper tool to do so. I also replace my original transponder with one from the junk yard that has the same part number since a quarter of my original transponder chrome ring was peeled off. I know the chrome ring acts like an antenna. I also install the used Luck Control module as well.
For your questions: "Does your key have a lock/unlock button on it? No.
Or was that just the FOB?" Yes, it's a FOB with one button.
The FOB has two new batteries and when the button is pressed for two seconds, it flashes a red light.
Your question regards to the scan tool: after selecting the make, it gave me two options: (1) 32 pin to scan all modules. (2) 16 pin OBD2 to scans only the ECU. There is a 32-pin port on the left side fuse box under the hood, but I don't have a connector for it; my MX808 did not come with it. Would swapping out the transponder made a difference?

Yeah, the 32 pin is for a Mercedes scan tool i believe, I haven't seen any of those connectors before. Thats kind of a bummer you can only get onto the OBD2 side. You won't get as much data. I found a few different ways to program keys and fobs for Mercedes. Now I don't know if this is going to work. I've spent hours trying to figure out how to bypass the immobilizer. Nothing yet, are you able to get into the ECM data pins? There are two sets of instructions on for the key and ones for the FOB, I've also been trying to figure out how to hook up to that 38/32 pin connector, but most connector adapters sold, don't connect the correct wiring.
Do you have the owner's manual still? there's supposed to be some instructions in there for new keys and fobs. I was just reading about another tech that got this same could you're getting, and he just replaced the fob batteries, cleared the codes and was good. So that's where we need to get you to. Are you positive the previous tech actually took the Infrared module completely out of the car?

Hey if you don't mind, can I get the VIN # from you? I want to investigate this some more, but it will be much easier with the VIN. thanks
One other thing I forgot to mention, with the mx808, did you run all the updates when you first got it? Its easily missed. Mine took over an hour to run all the updates on every make of vehicle, and looking at the wiring diagram, at the 16 Pin connector, one pin goes directly to the TCM (transmission ECM,) so you should be able to get into that module, definitely not just only the ECM.

I don't mind sending you the VIN, but I would rather do so privately by email or text.
I know for sure the previous tech did remove the Lock Control module (LCM). The previous deceased owner told me the tech removed the LCM because it got corroded from water damage some time ago, but he's not sure what the tech did to get the car running. The plug for the LCM is just there hanging.
You got me thinking maybe the previous tech were able to access the system via the 38/32 pin port under the hood. I still have the owner's manual. I will take a look into it regarding the FOB reprogramming. My FOB only has one big button. When pressing for 2 seconds, a little red-light flashed once.
My OBD2 only has three wires coming out of the back. I am not sure which pin goes to the TCM.
I also did some searching online regarding the P1570 code and some folks said a bad crank shaft sensor can trigger the P1570 code. Although I don't think the crank shaft sensor is the problem, but I may still need to check it; do you know the ohm reading to expect from a good working sensor?

Are you able to get into live data with the scan tool, and/or does this model have a tachometer? If it has a tachometer, while you're cranking the engine over the tachometer should jump a little. I know most things are not functioning right now, I don't think this is a crank sensor issue, the ECM is being inhibited because of the missing DAS, that's what it does. That also explains why you can't read any other modules; the ECM is probably the gateway for communications.

This is right from All Data: "Note: The drive authorization system inhibits the engine management system. Although the starter rotates, the engine does not start."

But here's the crankshaft position sensor specs, the wiring coloring is not correct on this info, the green wire is the 5-volt ref, and the green/white is the ground for the sensor. But again, if you're missing the 5-volt ref, the ECM is not awake.

Hi AL514,

I had to step away to attend to other things. Anyway, I do agree with you about the CKP is not the problem, but I am still going to take it out, test it and clean it for name sake. You ask if I can get live data : Yes I can via the OBD2 port. The CAN network protocol will not connect when selected, but the ISO 14230 protocol give me some other data. I ordered a Benz 38 pin connector and should get it this weekend so I can check all the other modules. I also was able to talk with a Benz Tech online and he told me that my IR FOB may need to be replaced, but I am dough full since I don't have a second FOB to try. See the attached file he sent me. One thing I forgot to mention is the red and green LED lights attached to the rear view mirror don't lite up at all. I check all fuses and found no problem. I am going to pull the rear view out and check it this weekend.

That's the exact same sheet i was going by. This is the other half of it for testing the module and wiring. I've asked multiple people about this issue, and only had one person tell me the immobilizer can be disable but he didn't know how.
One thing about the 32/38 pin connector, when you get it, open it up and make sure the wires inside are actually soldered to the other connector. I saw some of them were fake adapters I guess, where there were no connections inside the actual connector from the OBD2 side. I really hope yours works. But maybe he is right, in the long run here to get this thing going maybe you'll need to find another module. I can't really find an explanation on how it was bypassed, almost everyone said you can't do it. But obviously something was done to get it running in the past.

Hi AL514
Based on all the info and research done on this car situation, I have come to the point to believe this car ECU was flashed to put it in an virgin state for reprogram and disable the immobilizer. Why I am leaning towards such point is because when I got the car I could have start it with the blade key and I had to lock up the car with the blade key as well without the remote IR FOB. This confirmed the immobilizer was disabled (I found a website that supposedly to have the step by step info on how to disable or bypass the immobilizer, but the info was taken down to prevent bad people getting their hands on it which makes sense.) There was no red and green LED lights under the rear view mirror functioning. And at that time, the lock control module was missing from the passenger side foot well. Only the alarm was working. After disconnect the battery for a few days to fix the driver's side window motor and when the battery was reconnected that's when this whole issue of crank and no start begins. I am now thinking the car previous ECU program may have got erased so the car ECU is now returned to it's virgin state and now needs to be reprogram. Some folks online are saying I will need a MB Star Programmer scan tool to reprogram it. Here are a few videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
https://carlabimmo.com/

I have also noticed from one of the videos I have recognized the live data - Drive Authorization stored in the ECU with the Start Enable having a No for the value while being reprogram. See the image below

I tried to update you but the system wouldn't let me. Okay, I figured it out.

Hi AL514,

Based on all the info and research done on this car situation, I have come to the point of believing this car ECU was flashed to put it in a virgin state for reprogram and disable the immobilizer. Why I am leaning towards such point is because when I got the car, I could have started it with the blade key and I had to lock up the car with the blade key as well without the remote IR FOB. This confirmed the immobilizer was disabled (I found a website that supposedly to have the step-by-step info on how to disable or bypass the immobilizer, but the info was taken down to prevent bad people getting their hands on it which makes sense.)

There was no red and green LED lights under the rear view mirror functioning. And at that time, the lock control module was missing from the passenger side foot well. Only the alarm was working. After disconnect the battery for a few days to fix the driver's side window motor and when the battery was reconnected that's when this whole issue of crank and no start begins. I am now thinking the car previous ECU program may have got erased so the car ECU is now returned to it's virgin state and now needs to be reprogram. Some folks online are saying I will need a MB Star Programmer scan tool to reprogram it. Here are a few videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
https://carlabimmo.com/

I have also noticed from one of the videos I have recognized the live data - Drive Authorization stored in the ECU with the Start Enable having a No for the value while being reprogram. See the image below

There were no red and green LED lights under the rear-view mirror functioning. And at that time, the lock control module was missing from the passenger side foot well. Only the alarm was working. After disconnecting the battery for a few days to fix the driver's side window motor and when the battery was reconnected that's when this whole issue of crank and no start begins. I am now thinking the car previous ECU program may have gotten erased so the car ECU is now returned to its virgin state and now needs to be reprogram. Some folks online are saying I will need a MB Star Programmer scan tool to reprogram it.

Here are a few videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
https://carlabimmo.com/

Here are a few YouTube videos I was looking at where the first video guy was using an Autel IM608 to do so:

watch?v=hK-S8GkFkfM
watch?v=eWZQGU2RGWc
and check this site out, interesting.
carlabimmo.com/

I have also noticed from one of the videos I have recognized the live data - Drive Authorization stored in the ECU with the Start Enable having a No for the value while being reprogram. See the image below

Yes, i was thinking in the live data it would have a drive auth state of yes or no. The fobs obviously won't work without the infrared module. This is the issue with some guys that have a $1,000.00 scan tool that can do things for with the security systems. Most of them are more than that. It's an uneven playing field. Working two jobs and I don't make enough to go out and buy the scan tool I'd really like. I did also notice the information taken down due to it being used improperly. Of course, it would be an almost $3,000.00 scan tool. Even if you were to find an infrared module it too would need to be programmed and married to the ECM currently in the car. It's unfortunate that it's disabling the fuel injectors. There's no way to get around that, I will watch the videos you linked to in a few, I've read so much information on this issue and it's all pretty much saying the same thing you're finding. I am kind of surprised that the ECM would lose its programming though, the red and green LEDs under the mirror are straight from the Infrared module, so they wouldn't be there. An ECM that was re-flashed really shouldn't lose its coding. too bad you don't have the previous techs information to contact him again. I suppose if you have mobile technicians in your area, you could call one and see if one of them has the capability to reflash the ECM. Thats all he would need to do really, let me know if that's an option where you live. Because I don't want to leave this case unsettled.

Found one more thing to try.

Have you tried going into the OBD2 side with the scan tool, when it starts up, instead of selecting Mercedes, there's an option in the top left corner for OBD2 global side? I'm wondering if you can gain any access to anything on that side instead of the manufactures side.

Yes, I tried going into the OBD2 option in the top left corner on the screen where all the cars manufacturers are listed. On my scanner it is called EODB. I had no luck with it connecting to the ECM. I am also checking around my location for a mobile tech who knows how to reprogram or flash the ECM for this car.

I am also thinking the previous tech when he flashes the ECM did not hard code some of the car manufacturer data such as the VIN number. Otherwise, my scanner would have able to retrieve it; instead, it is empty. I have to enter it so the scanner can download the proper data (Diagnostic Tool/FBS). My scanner cannot write that data to the ECM and allows the inputting of the VIN. I looked up the Autel scanner the guy from one of the videos was using is not cheap.

Yeah, I looked at one of those scanners awhile back, they were not cheap at all. Some cars just don't auto ID the vehicle because of its age, I get cars that won't sometimes, so that's nothing to do with bypassing the module. I had a 2001 Ford Ranger that would auto ID and then a 2004 Jeep that wouldn't. It depends on the capability of the ECM. Make sure you ask the mobile tech that comes out ahead of time on the phone if he has a scan tool that can do security system changes. Im really surprised you can't get into Global OBD side, which should have worked. The only thing I keep coming up with over and over is CAN communication Drive Auth Not Granted. I'm wondering if he did something and then removed the DAS module. But without it we're pretty much stuck. I've read so much different information and just end up back at the same spot again.

The only module the previous tech removed was the Anti-theft lock module. The DAS is still in place; unless the DAS module itself is bad, then that's not good. I will have to find a used DAS and ECM with the same part numbers and also get them re-flash and reprogram. I found this company which seems to be a national mobile tech services company who specializes in auto electronic for all makes and models vehicles name "Elitek Vehicle Services". Have you ever heard of them? I am going to call them this coming Monday to hear what they can do. I am hoping they can rectify the issue and at a reasonable price.
If you have any questions, I need to ask them let me know. Two heads better than one.

Oh, wait. I thought you said the Infrared DAS had been removed???
So, what do you have, you have a mechanical key, any FOBs?
Was this the module removed, its responsible for actuating the locks and such.

My car has a mechanical key with one button infra-red FOB only; I do not have the EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch). The anti-theft lock control module was removed, so only the mechanical key is used for open/locking and starting the car. However, the DAS must have been disabled to allow only the mechanical key to work without the transponder ring around the ignition to read the FOB frequency and send it to the DAS with the rolling code. DAS will then validate the data with the ECU which gives the authorization to start. Remember, I was operating the car with only the mechanical key until I disconnected the battery for about three days. When I reconnected the battery that's when the car stops starting.

Okay, sorry I just wanted to get a clear picture here. Does the mechanical key turn in the ignition switch? Also try this, leave the key in the ignition switch (off position) for 90 minutes. I just want to see if that works. It's part of one of their key procedures. I've been reading about MB systems, and they have quite a few different ones, I guess they have changed the Start Auth system a lot over the years. It's good to know your car doesn't even have the EIS, which would complicate things a lot more. And does the transponder have any LEDs built into it? and do they light up?
I'm asking because the DAS has the infrared integrated into it. It's not a separate module.

Okay, I just went back through everything you wrote previously. You got a different key fob, transponder from the junkyard with the same part number, but yes that one will need to be married/taught to the vehicle. Thats why it's flashing red.
These cars have so many things that need to happen in order to start, one module sends a signal to another, then another, and so on.

You will have to focus only on the 1997 E320 W210 because it is easy to get sidetrack with all other info surrounding the E320. Every year Benz makes some changes to their electronic system. The 1998 model uses an EIS which includes the transponder and incorporates the DAS within the ECM, so the system is not the same as the 1996 - 1997 which has the components separated. I have accidentally left the key within the car in the "0" position for about two days and it did not work. Yes, the used transponder from the junk yard needs to get married/taught to the car so as the anti-theft lock control module. My infra-red signal receiver LED lights doesn't work and I think it's because of the anti-theft control module. My DAS is not an IR- DAS. The above image which year car is it for?

That's from your car. 1997 Mercedes E320. That diagram is the Data lines and the modules. it's the bottom half of the diagram. All the network wiring. The Pneumatic System Equipment Control Module is the other part of the security system. It controls the actuators for the locks and trunk lid etc. I'm very focused on this car and have been the whole time. Almost every fix for this code has something to do with the new fob or new batteries in it.

I am still looking for a local mobile auto electronic tech who has the proper tool to check the system and reprogram any of the modules that's need to be sync including the IR-FOB.
One company I located so for is "Elitek Vehicle Services", they claim they can do the job, but they don't go to homes. I will have to take my car to a auto service shop and they will go there and fix it. I hope to hear from a couple more mobile tech tomorrow Tuesday. I just want to weed out the possible causes.