Engine stalls out while driving?

Hello,

This sounds like you have a dirty throttle body these guides will help fix the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Right after I made a left hand turn, the engine stalled. I coasted for a second and stopped. Fuel was low but not empty. I tried to start the engine, but it would not start as if out of gas. The van sat for about than forty minutes while I got fuel. Put a gallon in, the engine started, but stalled in about ten seconds. I tried the engine again and it would not start. I let it sit for about fifteen minutes. The engine started but stalled in 7 seconds. ??? I am stumped. lol

I have checked the coolant level, I have cleaned electrical fuel connections. I will be using an OBDII next. Any suggestions before I do this. What might be a quick and inexpensive fix for this problem. I am at my wits end because the tester may not read it.

Thank you for any help and have a great day.

check fuel pump fuse !

also check ? SECURITY Indicator Illuminated and Engine Does Not Start
The theft deterrent control module (VTD) or the PCM has detected a problem with the theft deterrent system. The VTD module is unable to measure the ignition key transponder value. The System is in Learn Mode, refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System Components

Was driving and the engine shut off. Now only four of the rocker arms move when I turn it over. Could it be the oil pump?

If only forward rockers are moving, then you may have broken a camshaft. The root cause could still be a bad oil pump. With that many miles, anything is possible. You need to look into it further.

I replaced a bad intake manifold gasket. The van started but ran a little rough. I changed out the original plugs and it ran great even took it for quick ride, no issues. The next morning I started it and went to back it out of the garage when it suddenly stalled and would no longer start.

I am getting no reading from the cam sensor and was told that its failure should not prevent the van from starting. During removal of the power steering pump I may have inadvertently crushed the sensor when trying the pry the pump off.

Given that the van was running at one point could the bad sensor be the cause of its failure to start?

There are some variations between models and engines over which sensor(s) can stall the engine, but in general, crankshaft position sensors and camshaft position sensors tell the engine computer when to fire an injector or ignition coil. With a missing signal, there will be no spark and/or no injector pulses. Usually the fuel pump will also be turned off.

These senors often do not set a diagnostic fault code in the little time they have as a stalled engine coasts to a stop. When you do get a fault code, it only indicates the circuit that needs further diagnosis. They never say to replace a part or that one is bad. In this case you have the luxury of knowing physical damage is the likely suspect. I'd look for a crushed connector plug first. If the sensor is actually cracked, it could have still worked for a while until an internal wire or connection broke. Also, some GM engines will not start with a failed sensor, but if that failure occurs while the engine is already running, it will continue to run until it is stopped, but then it will not restart.

I changed out the cam sensor and ran a continuity test on the wires. The wires checked out, so then I replaced the ignition control module but still have no spark. Not sure if I should replace the coils next.

Thoughts?

BTW it's a 3.4, I see that I've listed it as 3.1, sorry

We rarely approve of throwing random parts at a problem. If you have a coil pack with three ignition coils, you know all three didn't fail at the same time. Also, that would cause a crank / no-start due to loss of spark only. You'd smell the unburned gas at the tail pipe. If you don't smell that, you aren't getting injector pulses or spark. That would point to the cam and crank sensors. If there is no fault code related to either of their circuits, you'll need a scanner to see if their signals are showing up at the Engine Computer.

As I mentioned earlier I did replace the cam sensor and checked the wiring. Replacing the crank sensor did the trick. Thanks so much for all your help I couldn't have done it without you.

BTW Do you know anything about '84 Chevettes?

Glad you could get it fixed, Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Please start a new post for the Corvette

Cheers, Ken

when i start my engine it races maybe at 1500 rpm and if i try hit the accelerator peddle it races at a even higher rpm. i talk to someone at the parts store i asked them if i should replace the throttle position sensor. they said i should replace the throttle idler solenoid and i did it really did not improve. i notice that after engine runs for1 or 2 minutes if i shut off engine and restart it runs at normal idle speed. what can be done?

Symptom Definition
Engine runs unevenly at idle. If bad enough, vehicle will shake. Idle RPM may vary. Engine idles at incorrect RPM.
Check the following items:
Check TP sensor for sticking and binding. Check for correct TP sensor voltage. See FUEL SYSTEMS in appropriate SERVICE & ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS article.
Check to see if condition is caused by engine running either rich or lean.
Check Park Neutral Position (PNP) switch circuit. Ensure PNP switch is properly adjusted.
Check for poor quality or alcohol contaminated fuel.
Check in-line fuel filter. Replace if dirty or clogged.
Check intake and exhaust manifold passages for casting flash.
Check fuel system for incorrect fuel pressure. See BASIC FUEL SYSTEM CHECKS in appropriate BASIC DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES article.
Check fuel injectors. Perform injector balance test. See FUEL INJECTOR BALANCE TEST under FUEL SYSTEMS in appropriate SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article.
Check exhaust system for restrictions, such as a damaged or collapsed pipe, muffler or catalytic converter. See EXHAUST SYSTEM BACKPRESSURE under MECHANICAL INSPECTION in appropriate BASIC DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES article.
Check for fuel in pressure regulator vacuum hose. If fuel is present, replace regulator.
Check injector harness locations. Ensure injectors are connected to correct injector/cylinder according to firing order.
If rough idle occurs only when engine is hot, check PCV valve for proper operation. Check evaporative emission control system.
Check PCV system for proper operation.
Check engine compression. Check for incorrect valve timing, bent push rods, broken valve springs or worn camshaft lobes.
Remove spark plugs and check for wet plugs, cracks, improper gap, burned electrodes or heavy carbon deposits. Also, check condition of spark plug wires. Spray spark plug wires with a fine mist of water to check for shorts.
Ensure initial ignition timing is properly set.
Check Knock Sensor (KS) system for excessive retard.
Check engine idle speed (both base and PCM idle).
Check Idle Air Control (IAC) system. Check for foreign material in IAC bore.
Check EGR system for proper operation.
Check Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch circuit.

We had an '84 "Vette" donated to my Automotive program. I'm an expert on the charging system because I built a lot of bugs into it for my students to find.

I install a new oil pump and no oil is pumping. run engine 20 min. then engine stop running help me please how do you prime oil pump and 2002 chevy venture engine.

the low oil psi light came on when you drive the van the light go's out between the engines idle the light come on.i re place oil psi switch it did not help replace oil did not help

first have this checked with a manual oil pressure gauge. then replace the oil filter iwth a new or good one as well as an oil. If this is a 3800 you shouldh avhave packed thpump with a little vaseline so it would prime. you culd also have bearing wear causing this.

enter your question...2001 Chevy Venture Van, am Driving and engine just stops. Wait a while and restarts?? Changed fuel filter , but still just stops running. This last time tried to restart but battery went dead, now charging. Seemed to starve for gas, but not sure. If problem is fuel pump wouldn't it not run anymore at all. So running some for a while would eliminat pump right? short in computer wire? etc, I just don't know> Help, puzzled colt

Do below and get back with some testing results:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.

Fuel pump is working , it seems to loose spark off then on then off again , car seems to have some electrical problems in the dash , such as gas gage reading a false reading ,
I was told to replace module , what should I do ?

Rob in las vegas

try resetting your security system first then if still thee scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.

I have a 2001 chevy venture. today I noticed a puddle under my van that wasn't there yesterday. Then as I was driving today and turned into a parking stall there was some grinding. A couple hours when I left, there was a puddle where the car was. Just a couple weeks ago we were in an accident resulting in wheel barings and axels needing to be replaced.

you have to find out what the puddle is from. if you had to replace the axles there is good possibility the trans or a cooler line was damaged ana that is where it's coming from. if the fluid is red, then it'w quite possible. it cold also be a power steering line as well. have apro look at it.

driving van on high way got off on an exit started to stall punched gas to make it in to parking lot van died tried restart sounded like it was out of gas replaced fuel pump old one sounded intermitin and fuel presseure not high enough motor starts runs like crap for a few secounds then dies then sounds like its cranking againts compression struggling get a back fire though intake once in a while then it will fire and stop the motor from cranking tried a new cam sensor still same allso getting a strong smell of gas in oil thought about changing crank sensor but still get the hard cranking i think this motor has the nylon timing gear but not for sure could it have jumped timeing please help any ideas will be used Oh and allso new plugs and wires and o2 sensores less then 1000 miles ago and water pump and fuel fillter and fuel pressure regulator ****help*** junk yard is next for it

have a compression test carried out !

OPEN REAR SLIDING DOOR RIGHT AT
THE DOOR REMOVE PLASTIC STEP PLATE PULL UP CARPET YOU WILL SEE THE REAR WIRING HARNESS THE
PLUG MAY BE CORRODED OR SEVERED TRY THIS IT MIGHT HELP YOU WITH YOUR PROBLEM.

GOOD LUCK,

FROM FIXED RIGHT AUTO

IM SORRY I DIDN'T PUT WHO WAS FOR. THIS MESSAGE IS FOR SSHDSILVERADO.

FIXED RIGHT AUTO

My venture Stalls when I let off of the gas only when outside air temp is below 38 degrees (or around there). I took it to a garage and they had the code for MAF sensor. I chnaged the MAF and it still stalled. Took back to garage and same code MAF sensor. I changed it 2 more times and still stalls. I also changed the IAC valve and the van still stalls. When the air temp is above 38 degrees it runs like a top, it runs smooth no miss no stall. I also checked and replaced the Air intake tempeture sensor and it still stalls. I am lost and loosing my mind, can someone please help me?

Ok I need you to check something for me. I need you to unplug the coolant temp sensor and do an ohm reading across the sensor terminals not the wire harness and what the temp of the sensor is at the time and get back to me with what you find. Thanks.

Thank You for the quick response. I checked the temp sensor and I had a reading of 3.42 ohms when engine is cold and 0.56 ohms when engine is warm.

I took the wrong reading on the ohms meter. I will check it again when the engine cools down and get back to you. It was about 122 degrees when I went back out to check it which would be slightly warm.

Racefan966, I really couldn't test the temp sensor on the van that well so I took it out. I get different readings saying it's 95 degrees to 112 degrees. the sensor is cold. The readings won't stay on, they flash for a second then I have to make contact again to get another reading. Does this mean the sensor is bad? or am I doing something wrong. Hope to hear from you soon. Thanks again

It sounds like it could be bad but I do need the ohm to know for sure.

[quote:aebb468b15="racefan966"]It sounds like it could be bad but I do need the ohm to know for sure.[/quote:aebb468b15]

The OHMS reading was around 1800 when it was cold. It was only 12 bucks so I replaced it. Any other suggestions. Seeing that it is temp. related and with everything I've replaced, do you think it might be the EGR valve? Also I forgot to mention before, the garage where I took the van to said they checked the wiring for the MAF sensor and they said they checked out ok.

Ok do you have any trouble codes stored? Is the engine light on? If so find a parts store that does a free scan and get the codes.

Yes the service engine soon light came on today. I have a friend at work who is bringing in a code reader and I will post the codes tomorrow. Thank You again for your help.

Ok get me those codes and we will see what they have to say. Now remember they will be P plus 4 numbers ok. Thanks till later.

Racefan966 Thanks again for your help. Here is the code the scanner gave me: P0101 MAF or VAF A CKT Range/Perf 1 of 2 codes 2nd code pending. I also have a question. If the code was never cleared after replacing the MAF and the other sensors I replaced, would this cause the computer to try and make adjustments to the engine if it is reading this code. Thanks again hope to hear from you soon.

Ok what I need you to do is disconnect the MAF Sensor and try to start the car and tell me what it does. Does it start and continue to run or does it not start or start and stall? Get back to me with this and we will go from there. Do not clear the codes yet ok. See you either have a bad MAF or the TPS is bad and these tests will tell us were to go next. The PCM reads the MAF with the TPS and if the PCM see's that the two values are not as they should be then it will set the code and either one or the other may be bad or it may be wiring issure to one or the other.

Racefan966, I unplugged the MAF sensor and the engine idled fine for about 2 min. then it started idling erratically ( slightly up and down). Other than that it seemed to idle fine.

Ok good this tells us the MAF sensor is good and working as it should, so plug it back in, now we test the TPS sensor. There are three wires to it a black ground and a gray and dk blue. Now the gray wire should be 5 volts and the dk blue wire should be the signal wire. With the digital multi meter I need you to back probe the dk blue wire (do not unplug it). With the key on engine off and the throttle closed it should read .8 to 1 volt as you slowly lift the the throttle it should slowly and gradually increase with no drops or glitches in voltage till it reaches 4.5 to 5 volt. Let me know what you find here ok. If the tps tests good the PCM is the problem. Get back to me.