Engine not starting?

Do you have a check engine light and when was the last tune-up?

Could be a fuel or ignition problem try doing below when it refuses to start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time

Engine problem
1994 Chevy Van Engine Size unknown Two Wheel Drive Automatic 120000 miles
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What would make my van start during the day but not at night. I just cranks but does not turn over but only at night. During the day it is just fine.

where you live, is it significantly warmer in the morning then at night?

does it start in the night if you keep cranking on it or use starting fluid?

No it is cold in the morning and night. The van will not start at all at night no matter how much you crank it. The is a strong smell of gas though.

wont start died at 30 mph on street pulled over tried to start no start got jump start still didnt start clicking sound when turn key and then no sound

**No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

when the van sits over night it cranks, but is does not start. I have replaced fuel relay, fuel pump, Fuel filter, IAC, ECM, Coil, distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires and I just order a TBI rebuilt kit that includes the fuel regulator.
it gives me a fault code 54.
When it starts after cranking for a long while it runs fine and it starts again and again while is hot, but when it sits for a long period of time or overnight it is almost impossible to start.
if this pressure regulator does not fix it i am burning the truck, that is how frustrated I am.
Help Please!

Hey RUDRULES,

Don't burn it! We will get it fixed up. Please remove the air filter so you can see if fuel in entering the engine when it is cold. We are trying to see if it is too little, too much or nothing at all? If not enough try to use some carb spray to see if you can make it start better, we can go from there.

Here is an article that can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

let me know who ti goes

Best, Ken

Thanks Ken for your reply
,
I rebuilt the tbi this weekend and replace the fuel pressure regulator and it started first try, I though i fixed it but today is the same old problem, cranks and no star.
took doghouse and air cleaner and cranked it and is getting fuel, So i'm stumped.
i'm going to take spark plug off to see if they are fouled, someone told me that if my old fuel pressure regulator was bad and i replaced it that I should also replace the plugs, so i'm going to check them.
Im also going to check for spark!

Please help!

Yes the spark plugs would definitely cause the problem. Let me know what you find.

Well, after removing and inspecting the spark plugs they were very black and wet with what it seem like gas,
had plenty of spark so I replace them and gap them at 0.45* and also replaced the coolant temp sensor.
First turn of the key and it started up, my son took it to work today and has had no problem starting it.

I'm still wondering what caused the plugs to foul so quickly the were only four weeks old!
I will inspect them again this coming weekend just to make sure that is not something outs causing the plugs to foul, like the map sensor or who knows what!
Feel free to give me your opinions as to what outs could be fouling the plugs!

My son is planing a three week long trip and don't want him to have any mechanical problems and get stranded far away from home!

I will post again after this weekend and let you know the condition of the new plugs.

Thanks for all your help!!!
Rudy

Hey,

Yep that will do it, need the plugs to stay clean, lets do a compression test to see what kind of shape the motor is in, low compression can cause the plugs to foul.

Here is a guide, get back to me with your readings

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Best, Ken

1993 Chevy Van 6 cyl Automatic
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I have a 1993 chevy van. It has been sitting for 2 years. It will not start. I have replaced the battery. I also had to replace the ignition lock cylinder. I had the starter tested and it is good. What could be wrong?

Does it crank the engine over and refuses to start or it doesn't crank at all? Which one

I just performed a compression test and here is the results:
Cylinder-Compression-----Spark plug Condition
1------------180------------------plug was clean
2------------185------------------Plug was clean
3------------185------------------Plug was clean
4------------175------------------Plug was Clean
5------------150------------------Plug had oil on it
6------------180------------------Plug had oil on it

I read a post that no cylinder should be less than 70% of the highest reading, my sons Van has 215000 miles!
I will do the the next compression test and add one tablespoon of oil in the number 5 cylinder to determine if is the rings or Valves, I also heard that it could be a worn lobe in the Cam shaft.
I tend to think that is coming from Valves because Cylinder number 6 was also wet with oil and it had 180 compression!
Whats your take?
Van is running good now and starting every time!

it does not crank

It looks like the compression is good, so there is a reason the mixture is rich which leaves the map sensor or a partially plugged cat converter. Lets start with the cat test, here is a guide that can help see if the cat is working or not which will help us with the diagnosis.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter


let me know what you find

Best, Ken

Get your battery load tested and hold key at cranking position look for power at purple wire on starter solenoid.

Checked the cat just now and temp is 242 degrees coming into and 295 coming out!

Thanks for the help.

I have power at the purple wire. I turned on the headlights and turned the key. Nothing changed on the headdlights, they are bright.

The guy at the auto parts store suggested the starter switch, but that is not in my book. Is that the same as the ignition switch?

Could it be a bad 02 sensor?

Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Chevy Van V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 100k miles

I have taken dog house off to get to air filter and can see that the spitter or electric gas valves are not putting gas into the throttle body unit.I checked the fuel pump fuse and it was good,Is there a inline fuse that i am not aware of ? If so would you PLEASE HELP ME OUT!!!!!! or tell me what I am missing or doing wrong ?

Power at the purple wire means the starter is defective-it should kick over when power is apllied to the solenoid

I would begin by checking the fuel pressure. Try and listen to see if you can hear fuel pump come on. If not try lightly tapping on the fuel tank to see if it begins pumping.

Here is the readings!

Hi, how long since a tune-up? Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Engine cranking, do you have spark at the plugs? Without rpm signal, your injectors won't pulse.

Around here some of the national brand autostores used to loan out a fuel pressure gage, if you don't have one. You have TBI fuel injection?

those cat readings don't really mean much they can be as high as 1400-1600 F depending on load. 1300 is about normal. your compression should all be with in 20% of each other with the one cylinder reading low. but okay. the wetness on plug is probably form the valve guide as they wear and with your mileage just drive it it won't hurt anything. the plugs can be wet from short drives under a mile and or starting engine and shutting it off. Also check your vacuum line going to map sensor, they get soft and suck together so map sensor doesn't work right like not allowing vehicle to start for one.

I listened and the fuel pump is coming on,I'm wondering is there a reset switch 4 the fuel pump like on some of the small cars or just a fuse? SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME?

Hmm,, that's looks like it is working. I would lean toward the map sensor being bad. Are the plugs still clean or are they turning black already?

There is not an inline fuse or a reset switch. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it to see what the pressure is. You also might want to get a noid light and connect it to the injector connector and see if it flashes while cranking.

They are all clean but number 5 and 6 are a little wet, but very little!

I blew a head gasket a couple of weeks ago,so I changed the gaskets,intake gaskets and so on.I got everything back together and it will crank and it wants to start.But I just can't seem to get it running.Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks Darrin

In this case were you did not say if you had the head to a machine shop or not, I would recommend you do a compression test on the engine, You need three things to run a motor, spark at all plugs, gas at all cylinders, and compression in all cylinders, You may start without one of these in a cylinder, but it won't run real well...

This sounds pretty normal for an engine with that many miles, could it be the wrong spark plugs (too cold) were install and you install the correct ones?

Cranks good, no start. To rich to start, but when started runs good.
Checked fuel pressure and leak down. Pump changed last year along with sender and filter.
Changed ECM twice, PROM once.
Changed IAC twice.
Changed coil and wires.
Changed rotor, cap.
Changed distributor.
Changed temperature sensor twice.
Will start after one day if throtle is cracked open, but will not start second day.

I would check and suspect the coil
as it maybe weak to fire it up when cold causing the plugs to foul with gas on a cold start

I tried a coil more than once. The same for coil wires. Both often go on this set up. We have checked or substituted most sensors. First coil helped as did ocashional coil wires. This problem has cobntinued for years, but gets worse and some better with changes, but continues. It will start after 8 hours now, but not 24. To get started it must be spun very fast with thrittle opened to stop flooding and closed (70%) to get it to fire and when it reaches 400 rpm will get out of starting more and run fine. It is that injector pules very rich in start mode.

If coil didn’t help my next step would be hooking it up to a scanner and check sensor values
you had already checked and replaced the coolant sensor
among many and other sensors
by you holding gas paddle down you shutting down the injectors
make me believe that you have a flooding issues
what kind of injectors system do you have ?
check fuel pressure regulator ???

Last year during a gas stop, when I turned the key the doors automatically locked but engine would not turn over/no start. A truck jumped me and it started right up. I drove to SEARS and had battery checked. Battery was OK. They suggested a possible dead spot in starter.
Finished trip with no other starting problems. On return I took it to local repair shop. They replaced with a rebuilt starter.
Now 11 months later, it has started doing the same thing. After driving a while, stopping, it may not turn over, no noise/click, no nothing. Let it sit, say 30 min and it may then start. I had the local Chevy dealer check it out and they said replace the starter. I checked warrenty from repair shop that replaced it 11 months earlier and they said bring it back. They have had it four days and it starts every time for them. I must leave on another trip this Wed. Any ideas as to problem other than an exorcism ???
Thanks very much,
Ron Evans in Garland, TX

This probably isn't what you want to hear, I'd have to do testing when the problem occurs. As an example, if the starter refuses to crank, with the key in the crank position, the purple wire at the starter solenoid should be hot, if it isn't, back track the circuit. Possible issue with ignition switch or wiring circuit. Your going to have to do some testing yourself, intermittent issues can be a pain. Some of the national brand autostores will test the starter for you, if you take it off and take it to them, if you want a second opinion. I'm not sure which van you have, I looked at wiring info on a G10.