No heat?

Hi I have a 2006 chevrolet uplander and tried everything. We had no heat at idle and very little when driving. We finally changed the heater core for the front and can't believe the difference we have lots of heat at idle and driving at any temperature it is outside. Just because the heater core is not plugged does not mean it is not defective. This fixed my heat problem 100%

This guide helped me

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Had same issue with my 2008. We took the fuses out & checked them. When we put them back it worked just fine. Also had an issue with the passenger sliding door. It would open & start dinging & would not close with any of the buttons or fob, only manually. It would ding constantly when in drive & reverse. Took out the fuse & put it back & poof... works wonderfully. I can only hope everything continues to work!!!

i have a uplander when the van is in idle there is no heat. when i start to drive the heat comes on. if i start the van and let it idle for a period say 5 to 10 minutes all i get is cold air. why?

Had same problem on my 2007. Paid for coolant & tranny fluid flush & change and am pretty sure I didn't actually get either...Nevertheless, I added what ended up being 1/2 jug of coolant and now it's warm when I get in after 5 minutes. Make sure to use the right stuff though...orange...Dex-III I think?

We have had this car for about 2 years and we are no longer getting any heat in the cabin. It's about as cold as the outside air even if we let the van warm up.

Check the heater core if its clogged-up if not replace the thermostat and go from there.

My chevy uplander blows cold air at idle but warms up at higher rpm's, any ideas?

Hello,

It sounds like you are low on coolant but to be sure lets check out this guide to see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thanks for this post the guide showed me the blend door actuator for the temperature was out I got a new one for $78.00 all fixed! I love this site

hi no heat when idling

[quote:4d6cac1c98="kabhigum"]Heater problem
2007 Chevy Uplander 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 244000 miles

hi no heat when idling[/quote:4d6cac1c98]

We have had this problem since we have owned (close to 2 years). We have taken it to the dealer 2x for this issue, and both times were told nothing is wrong. I beg to differ. We live in North Dakota and when the van sits to "warm up", the engine actually does warm, but the vents blow cold air until the engine is revved up. Makes for very cold starts to work EVERY DAY!

When I start my vehicle and turn on the heater it does not heat the vehicle. I try to pre-warm the vehicle in the winter but the heater will not kick in until I am driving. And as I am driving if I am stopped it will blow cold again. The thermostat seems to indicate that the vehicle is warm but the air blowing is cold. This obviously is not an issue for the summer but in the winter it is causing some serious issues as I cannot defrost my windshield or heat the van without driving.

2007 Uplanders were having problems with heaters not working when idling or at low speeds. This was caused by seals seeping or leaking anti-freeze. The heater will become "air locked" The seals were defective. I fixed mine in half an hour without removing the seals.Her is how I did it.....
1. make sure engine is cool, not running for at least 2 hours.
2. Remove coolant cap from reservoir, it will look like there is sufficient coolant in it but go to next step.
3. Remove radiator cap,top of radiator. You will notice you can not see any coolant in top of radiator. Fill with proper mix, before replacing cap, carefully clean any gunk in cap with 409 cleaner or similar cleaner, rinse. Replace cap.
4. Squeeze radiator hose along top of radiator with both hands, squeeze and release several times. remove radiator cap and fill again. Repeat until radiator stays full. Now replace radiator cap and rill reservoir with anti freeze mix to proper level indicator on tank.Replace cap. When all air is out of radiator heater will now work.
If this happens too often you will need to put in some radiator sealer or have gaskets replaced...Chevy knows about this problem and will charge you $$$$ just to remove the air from cooling system.
Good luck.

I was having the heating problems with my 07 Chevy Uplander but thanks to SuperBill01 instructions my Chevy heats like a champ!

2007 Uplander Heat Problem?



Hello!

I have a 2007 Uplander LS.
While idling, the heater will not blow heat. Once you touch the accelerator and rev the engine, heat will flow... upon releasing the accelerator, the air will slowly cool after about 30 seconds, and after about a minute, it will blow continuous cold air until you hit the accelerator again.

After doing some research online, I have found several other people with the same issue... Here is what was done to their vehicle with no success. I have been a loyal Chevy customer all my life, but am thinking about venturing to another car dealer because no one can help with this problem and it is very frustrating that Chevy can not figure this out. PLEASE let me know if you have found a solution to this problem.


The thermostat has been changed, the coolant has been flushed and all air has been removed from the lines, the water pump has been changed and nothing has fixed the problem. The dealership identified the problem and agrees that it is an issue, and says that all fixes provided by the manufacturer have not worked, so they gave us an entirely different vehicle with LESS mileage, and it worked ok for about a week... it now has the SAME exact problem.

You have a head gasket out. Tell your dealer that this is a known fact because I used to work at a dealer and this was a common problem. I had to have mine done also. They should fix it at no charge under the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty.

no heat comes in when idling. Replaced thermostat with on results. what else can I try

assuming it has heat off idle, i would look at a clogged heater core from lack of servicing the coolant

Roy

the engine warms up normally,coolant level is ok, but the air from the heater is cold.
i do not know what to check, or how much it might cost to have it repaired.

Mostly this happens on GM cars with air in the system. Do you have heat when you raise the RPM to about 3000-3500?

When engine is cool. Remove radiator cap, loosen the coolant bleeder screws, start engine and let reach operating temperature, turn on the heat, begin raising the RPM to 3000 and hold for about 4 seconds (do by hand on the throttle body if cable actuated so you watch the bleeder screws), be sure to keep the coolant level up in the radiator, keep the bleeder screws open till you get good solid flow of coolant then tighten them shut, once the all the air seems to be out of the system, confirm you have heat at idle, then turn of the engine, when engine has cooled completely, check coolant level at the radiator and top off as needed.

could you please tell me where the bleeder screws are ?

If you have an engine cover go ahead and remove it (may need to remove the oil cap and tube). somewhere along the top/front of the engine you will see some 8mm screws that screw into a 10mm screw. You loosen only the 8mm head (if possible. sometimes you have to loosen the 10mm if the 8mm is stuck). I will attach a photo of what they look like.

06 chevy uplander frt heater dont work back does

Check and test the frt blower fuse, blower switch and blower motor relay

The front blower motor doesn't work? Check applicable fuses, underhood fuse box. A couple of front blower fuses and hvac fuse. Use a voltage tester on the fuse circuit, check for voltage. One is hot all the time, other two may go hot with the key on.

Auxiliary heater in rear blows cold. Flushed auxiliary heater and coolant flows freely through it. Heat in front works fine. Need guidance on if there is a valve the prevents heat from going to the rear that may not be opening.

check blend door actuator also pull fuse for that for 60 seconds then reinstall it may reset.if you have to replace this you need to remove the either left or right rear quarter trim panel

We have a 2005 uplander with hot air heater problems. Start the vehicle for the 2nd time.No hot air, vent selector switch working(set on hot), blower motor switch is working, engine temp good, coolant good, fuse good. When changing functions we could here the switching. Played wtih fan switch and heater switch. Turn van off. Restart play with switches again. All of sudden heat enters the cabin. Happens every 3rd or 4th time the vehicle is used. Taken to dealership. Everything checked out electrically when the heater is operating normally. They suggested replacign the thermostat. Issue did not go away. This can be an expensive endaveour to route casue the issue. I am in contact with the electrical engineer from GM on the program. I post what he finds out regaqrding this issue.

Found the solutuion to the problem. There is a software issue with HVAC module may be exhibiting "Temperature Door Drift".The result of the investigation was a new release of software for service into GM SPO.

Problem statement: GM 2005-2006 Minivan vehicles while operating in full cold mode, the discharge temperature of the supply air stream is not sufficiently cold enough. The rear air stream was operating at design capacity, and blower speed did not affect the overall temperature of the discharged air. As a result of testing it was found that the temperature door within the front HVAC module was exhibiting a “float” condition, where full cold operation was not being achieved.

Drive Complete: When a singular drive (damper actuator) completes, there is a check sequence built into the logic of the control head that looks for any overshoot from the target destination. If there is an overshoot condition, the software will update the current position as the original target position, therefore avoiding and “hunting” by the damper.

These two logic paths (executed within the control head software) operate at different rates. The target update task is executed and checked at a rate of 20ms, while the drive complete task occurs every 100ms.

Root Cause: “Any time the temp knob is turned, there is a chance that an intermediate value can be read and acted on.”

I'm also having a problem with my front heater. The heater seems to be cycling in the outside air when the revs go below 2000rpm. If I'm parked, and rev the engine, I can hear the flap close and I get warm air again. This has become an issue since the outside temp yesterday was -35. By the way, the chevy uplander is an excellent cold starter.

The manual says that the outside air shouldn't cycle if the temp is below +32.

So, can you tell if your uplander is cycling air from the outside or inside?

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Let me know

I had this problem the guide shows me the coolant was low because the radiator was leaking.

My sister's car... antifreeze looks decent, blower motor works, but no heat. Problem may have developed suddenly or over 2...3 weeks gradually, not sure. Acts like plugged heater core or valve in coolant line not opening. Are heater hoses easy to touch, to feel temperature? If so, where? Anything else to be checked? Is valve electric or vacuum actuated? My sister has bad arthritis and must rely on others.

With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.
If they are both not too hot to hold on to, then you either have a restricted heater core or the system is not completely full and getting air pockets for some reason.

Thanks, very helpful. Hoses near firewall feel about same temp as upper radiator hose. Owners pamphlet says one fuse block (of 2) is on passenger side under instrument panel... cannot find looking under glove compartment. Ditto on RH side above accel pedal. Is the "instrument panel" something other than the dashboard?

No, instrument panel and dash are the same thing. It sounds like you're having a problem with the blend door operation.

the 1st fuse box is on the very end of the passenger side instrument panel, you have to fully open the door to get at it. The 2nd is under the hood on the passneger side in the black bos that has the jumper peg sticking out.

Thanks... The 1st sounds like the way Generous Motors located a fusebox on my Chev 2002 Silverado 2500HD (except maybe for right vs left). Appreciate your help!

Steam was coming out under hood. I took it to a repair shop. they applied pressure to find leak. they cut off part of hose that was damaged then reapplied the hose. on my way home temperature went all the way to hot then computer said hot going to air condition mode( I think, I was driving). it was blowing and is now blowing cold air when it supposed to blow warm air. do you think maybe mechanic didn't put enough fluid back in?

probably check your coolant level

Thank You!

my heater wont work air is fine someone told me could b actuator heat blows just wont heat up but van runs normal as far as temp... what could i do fix this