engine hard start

And..it is normal that the alternaton to be hot as barely can be touched? The original one have 105amp, if i put one with high amp?(if such a thing exist and fit the car?) it would help in not burning out and not being so hot?

[quote:abad8dcb33="DanaG1"]And..it is normal that the alternaton to be hot as barely can be touched? The original one have 105amp, if i put one with high amp?(if such a thing exist and fit the car?) it would help in not burning out and not being so hot?[/quote:abad8dcb33]I dont think the alternator is part of your problem.You should test the glow plugs.you can do this by disconnecting the glow plug connectors,hook up a test light to battery positive terminal,then touch the end of the test light to the glow plug terminal.If the test light illuminates,the glow plug is good.2 or 3 bad glow plugs could cause this problem.

Thanks for the answer! I don't think the alternator is the problem either on hard starting issue, but..how normal is to feel that hot and how normal is to change an alternator every year?!?

[quote:6f83d64fdc="DanaG1"]Thanks for the answer! I don't think the alternator is the problem either on hard starting issue, but..how normal is to feel that hot and how normal is to change an alternator every year?!?[/quote:6f83d64fdc]it will get hot. As far as replacing it every year,it could be the quality of remanufactured part you are getting.You could try a different brand.

HI there, check fuel pressure & flow rate first, i feel that it is a fuel problem.

mark (mhpautos)

Any suggestion on good brand alternator? Can i try more amps compared with 105amp as the original one have? Well..i have also a chevy caprice and the alternator is warm when touched, on the suburban is absolutely hot and like i said, i wonder if that is normal. Regarding the hard start...the only time when start with little ease if when the engine is stil warm..if cools down...like if start in the morning , drive for a while, stop like around 11am and start the car again around2pm..start hard, like wasn't started in days...Thank you for the ideas and suggestions!

[quote:372dec7b85="DanaG1"]Any suggestion on good brand alternator? Can i try more amps compared with 105amp as the original one have? Well..i have also a chevy caprice and the alternator is warm when touched, on the suburban is absolutely hot and like i said, i wonder if that is normal. Regarding the hard start...the only time when start with little ease if when the engine is stil warm..if cools down...like if start in the morning , drive for a while, stop like around 11am and start the car again around2pm..start hard, like wasn't started in days...Thank you for the ideas and suggestions![/quote:372dec7b85]I have had good luck with AC Delco and Duralast alternators.I, would however, recommend having your alternator tested berfore any unnecesary replacement.

Thank you for the suggestions! I hope i will make the car start easier, or, the way it suppose to start. I will poste updates when i will have something new. I know is an old car but...it is safe to drive such cars and i am gonna keep it! :)

I own a 98 suburban, 5.7 4x4. A couple weeks ago driving home after work appox 2 miles, vehicle started stalling. No power, hard to accelerate and stumbling, Got home and vehicle smooothed out no issues. A coule days later vehicle would roll over while trying to start and would hit hard, like it waas goint to start, but not start immediately, after a coule tries it starts, may be fine for a few days then problem reoccurs. Fuel pump and wiring to pump replaced 2 years ago, cat convertors replaced last year, starter 2 weeks old. Any ideas. relaced starter thinking it was problem.

i would like you to perform a fuel pressure test and get the results back to me.

1997 suburban 5.7....Hard to start when cold...meaning it's sat a few hours like in the morning or after work. It cranks just fine...tries to catch then after multiple times, it'll finally start and run great. i hear the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds when i turn the key on. It'll also fire with a snort of starting fluid. If it's been run within the last little while, it'll start right up. don't know wether t's pressure regulator, relay (i hear pump), coolant temp sensor, check valve ( does it have one?), or pump itself, or something else

What is the fuel pressure? before start up - after startup - and after driving for about 15 minutes..

my 1997 chevy suburban will not start or turn over, and we have replaced the starter and the relay switch, what else could it be?

Have you checked the neutral safety switch?

So the engine doesn't turn at all?No click or anything from the starter?Have you had the battery tested also made sure the battery cable's are clean and tight?Also do you have a multimeter or test light to trace power?

1997 suburban only happens after it sits 6-10 hrs also when damp or cold most of the time have to let off key to start put new cam & crank sensors new tune wire cap & rotor

check fuel pump pressure.

1997 chevy suburban with 454. motor starts fine first thing in morning, but stop at store and stop motor for more than 10 min and it's hard to start. It turns over and over for about 20 sec. then starts with a bad gas smell. if only stop motor at store for a few min. like 2-3 min. then motor starts right up like normal.

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester-the fuel pressure could be leaking-injector/s or the fuel pressure regulator

I did check the fuel pressure. At hard starts, pressure is 48-50 psi as motor turns over it slowly climbs and at about 55-58 psi it cranks and thats when I smell gas real bad, as if it had been flooded.I do remember changing fuel pump about 3 years ago, Do think it was hard times and may have been a salvage yard item. Do know that I did change fuel pressure regulator out 2 years ago.I have not had to drive vehicle very much so this problem has been going on for quite a while. I do greatly thank you for any help I can get.

Ok I changed the fuel pump today. It seems to start a little better but not much at all. When key turned forward I get 59psi, then when I start motor, get 49-50psi,then when I turn off motor pressure drops to 10psi in 10 seconds. I am not sure how if able to isolate and test if the problem is a leaking injector or the regulator. With injectors costing $750.00 and a regulator costs $80.00, either job seems to be a full day event. If able to check either injectors and regulator so I can now for sure that would be great.

1994 Chevy Suburban, 6.5 turbo diesel, Automatic

I have a 94 chevy suburban, 3/4 ton, k 2500, 6.5 turbo diesel and for quiet a while the car begin starting very hard. If start, drive a while, stop the car and start again after a short period of time, will start ok, but if let it over night, starts very hard. We changed the ignition pump, no signs of improvment in starting, changed the fuel filter..the stating process right after that was a pain, looked like will never start again.
Few days ago, the engine stops while the car was driven and no way to start the car again. The car was took ( lifted on a platform) someplace and the next day, started. Worked ok ( well same hard starting problem) for about 2 days then after was stopped, couldn't start again and right at this moment we cannot start it anymore. Looks like the gas didn't came all the way thru the injectors or so..Did anyone have any idea what to do or what to try or what to check? Thanks in advance.

probably your injector pump need s to be redone. they have an impeller that goes bad inside it. I am assuming this is a high mileage vehicle. but also the age of it will do it as well.

i have a 1996 suburban with a 5.7. it was really really really hard to start. it was also loosing oil pressure. i changed the oil pres. sens. and i am still loosing press. to get the sens. out i had to remove the dist. i made sure to mark the cap rotor and dist. when i re installed everything the engine started great and smooth. i went to drive it and it ran fine. now when idle in gear it wants to stall. i have a cam pos. sens. code... could the timing be off? i also changed the plugs and wires, cap and rotor. i did everything one at a time to make sure i did no mix anything up.

if you are getting a cam sensor code then either a wire has become disconnected or wasn't connected tightly Or you have a bad cam senso......

delayed start/occational misfire/rough idle .code1345a/changed crank and cam sensors/no change

1345 sets when cam crank sensors don't corrolate to distributor. Generally results from Dist. not installed correctly. Like on tooth offf is all it takes. Has Dist been out to your knowledgf?

Hello, the cam and crank sensor maybe out of sync? You might also check the camshaft retard offset adjustment, hvs dist, v8. I don't know that you can correctly set that adjustment without a scanner?

I have trouble starting the battery is charge but when u start it it dies down

Use a digital multimeter across battery posts. Have helper turn key to crank, how low does the voltage drop? Generic specs say it shouldn't drop below 9 volts. Battery connections all clean and tight?

Also, you may need to have the starter tested. Some of the national brand autostores will test it for you.

My diesel(overdrive) is missing at all speeds, jerks out of low, hung up in third for about thirty minutes, has intermittent voltage discharging with lights and blowers on, The engine may kill or hard start at times -hot or cold. Please help! Bill [email protected]

If the fix works I will be glad to so testify and make a donation. Chev. dealer and local mechanic have not figured it out! Bill [email protected]

My truck has recently began starting HARD. Turning over slowly as if the battery might be dying. My question. When this happens the clock keeps reseting back to 12:00. Does this sound like a battery problem or possibly an alternator/starter problem?

Sounds like the battery has lost a cell. When you crank it, the system voltage is actually low enough to reset the computers in the truck.

thank you for the input. I hope you are correct and it is just a battery issue.

Yes it's taking longer to start up

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.