engine hard start

Its a little tough to get at, but remove the vacuum line (at the reg)and see if any fuel is present in it.If so the reg is bad and needs to be replaced, that is what it sounds like

This guide can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down this guide and report back

My wife has a problem with her suburban. When we drive it for a while it seems to lose power, adn will eventually stall if we try to climb a hill with it. It coughs and pops when this happens. At first i thought it might be a plugged convertor, but it will run good on level road, do 65 plus and doesnt get hot. It recently started not starting after a 5 min run, and even in the morning it cranks hard and wont start. I have also noticed a fuel smell around the vehicle. I have changed the fuel filter. and checked for codes. ( none present) I pulled a couple of the plugs to check them and it looks like the engine is running a little rich. the plugs have black on them . What do you think it could be? Im a heavy truck mechanic and am a little weak on car diagnostics

I would check the fuel pressure regulator and also check the map sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm

if its cold outside the first start usually starts fine. after it has been ran for a while it starts real hard. I have replaced the plugs the coolant sender and the upside o2 sensors thermostat. I am thinking issue wit fuel but i dont know

check fuel pressure with a gauge 60-6psi auto parts rent it.

truck will not start unles i prime it

Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Do you have the spider fuel system? If so, fuel pressure 60--66psi.
Sometimes the fuel poppets need cleaning. Some of the national brand autostores used to loan out a fuel pressure gage, if you don't have one.

fuel pressure is 60-63,good pressure once i get it started it will run for about 5-6 miles the it will die out and i have to prime it agin to get it to run

The spider system may need cleaning? The best cleaning procedure is a shop procedure. Don't know if injector cleaner in the gas tank will help?

We just replaced the Ignition Control Module in our 99 Chevy Suburban yesterday and from all appearances it seemed to run fine all day today. Then later this evening I was out running errands and ran into a store for 15 minutes came out and it struggled to start as it had before we changed the ICM. Took about 3 or 4 times to start. It eventually started except now the Check Engine light is now on (this wasn't on before). I'm assuming because of maybe a faulty knock sensor now because of the hesitation in starting of the engine? Could we now have a problem with the Knock Sensor and or the Ignition Coil?

You need to check what's missing if its fuel or spark issue-Do below to find out more-

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

Thanks rasmataz! We will try these out! As we are just at home do it yourself "ers". We did just have the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced by a mechanic in November.

Replaced 2nd ICM...Check EngineLight was coming on intermittently when struggling to start only. Wasn't coming on when starting fine in the mornings (cold engine). Diganosed the codes at AUto ZOne...BAD ICM AGAIN!!! SO they said either a bad part OR might be a grounding issue? Gave us another ICM and we just replaced yesterday. Has been fine until this afternoon and it took a couple of times to start and now the check engine light came back on (no big surprise). So if there is a grounding issue that is making the ICM go bad, where would that be? Pretty soon Auto Zone is going to stop giving us ICM's even thought they are Lifetime Warranty's. LOL!

139000 MILES ENGINE MISFIRES HARD STARTING
SCAN SAYS #5 MISFIRE PLUG WIRES ARE NEW

Could be a bad plug wire, has it had new ones put on?That is a CPI engine and they had many problems with injectors, If miss still occurs with new wires (major tune up with A/C Delco parts) then I would suspect an injector. If you do it yourself, keep an eye out for the fuel pressure regulator leaking, those blow out too. There will be a clean spot under it in the intake manifold where the raw fuel has been running into the intake

i read a question on hear about a 04 suburban not starting every once and a while thab they went and got a new starter i just dont think it is that im thinking the neutral safty switch has any one else heard of this going out and that being the problim . some times when it wont start i run it through the gears and than try it again and it starts up but now it is becoming more often and takes longer to start any help would be great thanks

smart, the way to check if you have a bad safety neutral switch is to put the transmission in neutral if the vehicle starts the switch is no good, another thing you can do to hold the key like you are trying to start it and wiggle the shifter in park and a neutral and see if it will start let me know what happens.

I have a 1999 chevy 5.7 suburban. For the first start of the day it backfires and is hard to start. For the rest of the day it starts and runs fine. One backfire blew apart my muffler. Also, the service engine light is on. Was told it is a oxygen sensor. Which one I have no clue.

What was the exact code stored from the check engine light. It's likely NOT caused by a bad sensor.

Thanks for replying so fast. I'm not sure what the code was. I'll have to go back to advanced auto and get it done again.

We need the number, not their interpretation of it.

ok, I'll do it probably wed (waiting for my disability check). I'll write back as soon as I get the number. Thank you!

check engine light is on/hard to start sometimes

before you do anything like replace parts, scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. it may not even be the O2 sensors. fuel pressure should be 60-66 psi with key on

Hard to start once started idles good but hard to accelerate but when u give gas it bogs down cleaned trottled body really stuck at what to do next I would really appreciate your help. Could it be fuel pressure causing this to happen

if it's a tbi unit check underneath with choke cleaner for a blown gasket. if not check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent them

my SUV is hard to start after runing a few minutes cracks slow like dead battery (battery is new)
if I wait 1-2 Hours it starts fine

sounds like your starter is going out, the heat from the exhaust is adding extra stress on a worn starter thats why after you let it cool off it will start again... replace your starter.

My Suburban is hard to start in the mornings. I just replaced the Battery and had the alternator checked and it was fine. It takes about three seconds to start. When you drive it all day it starts like normal. Is this my starter going out? Not sure where to start looking, I checked to see if there is any lights staying on but there is not.

Check the fuel pressure if okay test the fuel pump relay-both okay test the coolant temperature sensor

1997 Chevy suburban 4x4 with 454 7.4L. Ok I changed the fuel pump today. It seems to start a little better but not much at all. When key turned forward I get 59psi, then when I start motor, get 49-50psi,then when I turn off motor pressure drops to 10psi in 10 seconds. I am not sure how if able to isolate and test if the problem is a leaking injector or the regulator. With injectors costing $750.00 and a regulator costs $80.00, and either job seems to be a full day event. If able to check either injectors or regulator so I can now for sure which one is bad, that would be great.

GM has a ton of trouble with their pressure regulators but they typically leak fuel into the vacuum hose. To tell if it is not sealing well and is letting the pressure bleed down, use a hose pinch-off pliers to pinch the rubber hose where it goes from the fuel rail to the body. To check for a leaking injector you'll have to pull them all out still attached to the fuel rail, then watch to see if any get wet on the tips when you turn the ignition switch to "run". A less common problem is a leaking check valve in the fuel pump. You can identify that by pinching off the fuel supply hose right after a helper turns the engine off. GM also has a lot of trouble with misfires caused by mismatched injectors. They just grab six or eight of them from a box without matching their flow rates. You can find rebuilt injectors for a lot less money and they will be packaged as a matched set.

when cold it starts hard seems to only run on 4 cyl when it warms up it runs strong and idles good it has new coolant temp sensor ,cap and rotor plugs are good and clean

Clean out the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor/manifold absolute pressure sensor.

wouldnt that cause problems all the time if those sensors were dirty or bad

wouldnt that cause problems all the time if those sensors were dirty or bad

It will and may and can set off the check engine light-I strongly recommend you check and test it-to include a fuel pressure check and get back with the readings for evaluation and also test the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump and oil pressure sending unit

I have a chevy suburban, 1994,3/4 ton, 2500 K 6.5 turbo diesel about 120,000 which, for some reason begin to start harder and harder day by day. Any suggestions? Also, every year need to replace the alternator because "burn" it out. If touch, it is very hot. thanks!

[quote:93798963fb="DanaG1"]I have a chevy suburban, 1994,3/4 ton, 2500 K 6.5 turbo diesel about 120,000 which, for some reason begin to start harder and harder day by day. Any suggestions? Also, every year need to replace the alternator because "burn" it out. If touch, it is very hot. thanks![/quote:93798963fb]does the wait to start lamp inthe dash come on when you turn on the key?

I am assuming you ask about the plug light?!? yes, it came on and i wait till that turn off because if i won't do that, can't start the car...